The knog party coil is one of a range of knog locks. It’s a cable lock with a silicone outer cover available in eight different colours. It looks pretty; it’s very knog. The party coil is 1.3 metres long, 10mm thick and comes with 3 colour matched keys. On the technical side, the party coil is a PVC coated, braided steel cable with a fibre core. According to knog, it’s this fibre core that makes the cable strong enough to offer some security. Apparently this core will result in the cable crushing before cutting, which will make bolt cutter attacks more difficult. I can’t confirm any of that because I didn’t cut into it. I was planning to, however.

When the cable lock first arrived, I had every intention of using it for a few weeks and then going nuts on it with my bolt cutters, side cutters, angle grinder and anything else I could find. The lock initially didn’t impress me very much. Yes, it looked very nice, but it didn’t look “butch”. When I lock up my bike I want potential thieves to see a good quality cable lock (and usually D lock as well) that’s too much trouble to bother with. I know that if someone wants my bike, they’ll get it, but if it’s too much hassle to steal, perhaps they’ll move on to the next bike. There’s a visual component to that security and the knog party coil looks too good.

Don’t get me wrong here, the lock is far from the “dental floss” cable locks you can buy, but it doesn’t look scary hard to cut. As such, I was going to have some fun with it; that is until I started using it. Knog know their customer base and they’ve taken a simple cable lock and made it just that little bit more convenient, too convenient for me to cut up.

According to the instruction manual that comes with the lock (yes, it has an instruction manual), the party coil can fit into your pocket. I tried it out, and it does; it will fit into the back pocket of your skinny jeans and it will also fit into your jersey pocket. The coil is very tight, but it’s not bulky, and it only weighs 300g, so it’s not going to drag you down.

The party coil is short, only 1.3 metres long, which I initially found disappointing. My 1.8 metre cable lock allows my to secure both wheels around a sign post or light pole without too much hassle. The party coil will just fit through both wheels and wrap around a bike rack or railing that’s very close to the bike, or if you’re willing to take the front wheel off and chain it to the frame, you can secure your bike to something larger. I’m willing to trade some slightly limited parking options for the convenience of the party coil and after using it for a few weeks I’m quite used to the getting the cable around my bike and whatever I’m chaining up to.

So my perception changed with a bit of use and the party coil now sees quite a bit of action when I’m out riding. When I have to lock up in the city, I take my shabby commuter bike with the rack and panniers, and I still carry my big cable lock and D lock. Now, however, I can easily take a lock with me when I’m on my racing bike or my fixie, which don’t have racks. I just stick the party coil in my jersey pocket and I can lock my bike up at the coffee shop or supermarket when I need to. Provided I don’t take too long or I’m not too far away from the bike, the party coil gives me enough protection to keep my ride safe.

There we have it, the knog party coil is a really useful lock. It looks good, and it’s convenient to carry with you. It’s not for every security situation, but it’s also not knog’s only lock. Knog have a range of stylish locks, from stylish D locks to stylish wearable locks, providing a range of stylish security strengths (their top D lock is rated 90% and the party coil is rated at 30%, but what that means objectively is anyone’s guess). There’s a trade off between security and convenience with the party coil, but now that I’ve used it, it makes me want to look at the other knog locking options.

Knog put a considerable amount of thought into their products and all they make is common bike accessories, but they make them better. The party coil is a simple cable lock that is just a little bit better, a little bit more convenient, a little bit more…knog.

The party coil can be purchased for $29.95 from knog online or good bike shops. See entire range of knog bike locks online.

You can read our Quad Lock Deluxe Mounting Kit for iPhone 4/4s review here. We liked a number of things about the original Quad Lock:
• It was a clever system that mounted well
• The solid case could remain on the iPhone to protect it when not mounted
• It was Australian designed and funded via kickstarter

What I found missing from the original Quad Lock was a way to protect your phone from the elements. I’m the type of cyclist who uses a waterproof protective pouch for my smart phone when riding, even on bone-dry days, so this was a big no-no for me. Not long after publishing, however, a waterproof poncho was created which solved this concern.

Fast Forward – Quad Lock meets the iPhone5
Fast forward and the iPhone5 is everywhere – Australians love their Apple devices. It meant the Quad Lock needed an update and the Aussie designers went one step further than just resizing. The excellent mounting mechanism remains the same, as you would expect, but the case has been updated.

While the new case doesn’t appear to be different, rather than being a single piece of solid polycarbonate, the new case features a solid polycarbonate backing but the sides are soft. I ask the Quad Lock’s designer (and company director) Chris Peters about this.

“The iPhone 5 Quad Lock case has been re-designed from the ground up. We wanted to offer better protection, all while maintaining the strength, thin profile and pocketability that our customers love from out iPhone 4/4S case. To do so we decided to go with a composite, overmolded case design. Overmolding is a manufacturing process which allows a part to be created from two different materials. It’s a more expensive process as it requires double the amount of tooling and production processes, but you end up with a premium product that you can fine tune the desired mechanical properties of to suit the application.

Going with overmolding allowed us to have a very strong core made from engineering grade polycarbonate with a durable impact protective TPU outer skin. Unlike silicon, TPU does not attract dust or become sticky, so it maintains its smooth clean finish and is easy to slide in and out of your pocket. The TPU also makes it much easier to install and remove the phone from the case while still gripping the phone securely.”

The iPhone 4/4S Quad Lock case was certainly harder to get the phone in and out; the new case in comparison makes this a breeze and suits me as I generally prefer no case for general use. Even with the case on, the buttons are easy to access and the microphone and speaker is free as well as the front and rear camera.

 
Does your iPhone like water?
The good news with the Bike Mount Kit for the iPhone5 Quad Lock is that it comes with the poncho; the “weather resistant cover”. You still get a good view of the smart phone screen with it on, and can use the touch screen.

Taking a critical look at the poncho, while it fitted well and covered the top and sides, there are two parts that can potentially let water through – the Quad Lock case has a hole for the rear camera and inside the twist and mount mechanism there are some holes which could eventually let water through.

Chris Peters comments “It is designed to protect your iPhone from rain, dust, dirt, mud and sweat, however it its not fully water proof so is not suitable for fully submerging the phone in water.”

That said, in wet weather riding on a road bike or mountain bike with spray from the tires, is there a danger of water getting in?

“When using the Quad Lock in the most common installations”, says Chris, “the phone’s protected from tyre spray by the stem, and when mounted on the handle bars it’s far enough away from the line of the spray for it not to be a concern. We’ve tested it riding in heavy rain, through river crossings and through muddy MTB trails and it has protected the iPhone in all situations.”

Commonsense should prevail to keep your iPhone safe; the case and poncho isn’t designed for underwater cycling trips, though will protect your phone if you get stuck in the rain. In the case of a tropical thunder storm, if you insist on venturing out on the bike, I suggest using a completely waterproof pouch for the phone until the sun comes out.

And now for some fiddly bits
While the Quad Lock mount and case are well designed and well made, you may run into a few fiddly issues. On my road bike, the stem was the best place to mount the Quad Lock, though on my oversized stem the two supplied o-rings wouldn’t fit. The kit does come with cable-ties, which work well but take away the flexibility of easily removing the mount, for example if you ride more than one bike. On a standard sized stem however this shouldn’t be an issue.

Another issue relating to the “fit” of the Quad Lock on my road bike was that I have an uncut steerer, not so long that it looks “wrong”, but enough that the Quad Lock case touches the steerer when mounted. In my case this is not a problem, since the stem is long enough, but it’s worth considering if you don’t want to take a hacksaw to your overlong steerer.

On the plus side, one of the benefits the mount provides is the ability to mount on your handlebars or stem, and you can mount your iPhone vertically or horizontally to better suit your personal preferences.

It is worth noting that I don’t own an iPhone 5 and I was sent a “dummy” iPhone 5 for testing. As such I wasn’t able to operate the iPhone during this review, but I can’t see any difference between this iPhone 5 and the iPhone 4/4S kit we tested before, in terms of phone operatability.

 
A goody for fans of the Quad Lock
The company behind the Quad Lock, Annex Products, have listened to their community and released a “goody”. The standard Quad Lock mounting mechanism is black with a dominant blue ‘collar’, but realising that some people like to “pimp-their-ride”, they have made 3D printed collars available in 6 different colours. While the 3D printing isn’t as smooth as the original injection moulded collar, it is a nice touch.

The Quad Lock Bike Mount Kit for iPhone 5, with the case, mount and poncho retails for USD $69.95 and includes free shipping to Australia. You can see the details and order online: www.quadlockcase.com

Previously, at The Mont 24…
In 2012, my then 3-year-old Ay Ups seemed perfectly adequate for the race ahead. They were great for night commuting and the occasional fire trail social night ride I’d been doing with mates. Indeed, the previous year at my first ever Mont, they really did seem fine. It was an unpleasant surprise to find then, come race day, when scooting through the twisty Kowen Forest singletrack, their weaknesses jumping out like a hungry drop bear.

Mounted on the handlebar, the bright Ay-Ups’ intense hotspot and rapid drop-off to the sides created a tunnel vision effect. This forces the rider to scan with the helmet light and fill in the gaps between the hotspots and front wheel from memory. I found this very tiring and difficult to maintain at race speed on twisty rerrain.

Sections like Kowalski’s Sideshow and Rolling Thunder became particularly difficult at night, with the bar light pointing out into the inky black off the side of the hill around the fast banked hairpins. This left no choice but to use the helmet light on the foreground instead of looking around the corner.

The Ay-Ups just weren’t doing it. It was an unpleasant slog. I wasn’t sure if I was up for putting myself through that again.

Jump forward 12 months: a new toy arrives
When the MyTinySun light arrived late last year, I felt like 007 getting his new toys from Q before a dangerous mission. My manic work schedule (yes, I have a real job) meant midweek practice trail rides with the new kit didn’t happen. Nevertheless, I was quietly confident I had a secret weapon in my hands. For the Mont 24 MTB race in Canberra, the Ay-Ups were relegated to helmet light duties where the hotspot would be handy.

Turning night into day
Come the first night lap, I knew early on I was going well when I noticed how far forward I could plan lines and how relaxed I felt. The full, even beam from the MyTinySun meant peripheral vision could handle the load as in daytime and I no longer had to ride by memory. This set in motion a virtuous cycle. Not being constantly surprised, and being able to stay off the brakes much more when setting up for corners, helps maintain momentum instead of wasting energy. The increased speed and lower effort means flowing lightly over obstacles, if not popping the bike over them altogether, instead of having to grind and bounce my way through every rock garden and mass of tree roots.

Sections like Kowalski’s Sideshow that were tricky to ride fast, still required full concentration but were a blast to ride. The Sport 2700x allowed you to see clearly the exit line you were aiming for while still giving you a great view of the foreground and everything to the side and in between. This freed up the helmet light to do its job of searching ahead for what was coming next.

The result was a first night lap that was my fastest of the event: 1 hour 8 minutes-odd, according to the Garmin, on a course two kilometres longer – a massive improvement of 26 minutes over the last year, in the same conditions. This compared well with the elite’s night laps at around the 53 minute mark. Not bad for an old fart.

On the second night lap I found myself struggling a little, until I figured out I’d been running the 2700x in half-power mode for the first half. Out of habit I’d dimmed the light to conserve battery on the first long slow climb. In the rush to hit the mode button before arriving at the next fast technical section I had somehow missed clicking it properly.

Back on full beam, confidence returned. Shape-making on the bike and line selection improved and speed through the winding singletrack just seemed to lift of its own accord without extra effort.

A check on the Garmin as I crossed transition showed 1 hour 14 minutes and some seconds. Not at all bad, considering the first half. My last lap, in mid-morning Sunday sunshine, would come in at 1 hour 12 and some cramps. Consistent!

MyTinySun Sport 2700x light beam (on high)

For comparison, Ay-Up V4 Adventure Helmet + Handlebar kit
(Photos: Canon EOS 600D, set at F9 and ISO400 with a 21mm focal length for 15 seconds)

Excellent battery life
Why I felt the need to dim the light on that climb I am not quite sure. My lap times were never going to threaten the 2 hour 47 minute run time on full beam specified on the light’s spec sheet. The battery status indicator only just tripped over to indicating 75%  capacity ten minutes or so before hitting the transition area on the first lap, so the spec sheet run time seems quite realistic.

The light head does get more than a little warm on full power when standing still, but even spinning up steep gradients at 6-7km/hr seems to provide enough airflow to keep it no more than warm to the touch.

Mounting hardware that works
Despite spending several weeks fixed 24×7 on my commuter bike, the O-ring light head mount was just as secure on the Easton carbon bars of my race bike on the rough stuff. I shifted the aim up and down slightly a couple of times during the lap to suit the terrain, but this was a plus not a minus.

The Velcro fasteners kept the battery securely nestled up front between down and top tubes, and the cable connectors behaved perfectly.

The connectors are difficult to pull apart, which is confidence inspiring as the last thing you want on a fast rough descent is for your light to suddenly wig out from a dodgy connector. Gripping each connector end firmly and flexing from side to side loosens the connection easily without stressing the wires. I managed to deduce this by studying the plug’s design, and this omission is probably the only complaint I would have about the instruction sheet.

With great power…
One consequence of having so much light at one’s fingertips is that it imposes a responsibility to be careful with its use. The instructions carry a warning against looking directly into the beam when handling the unit due to the risk of permanent damage to your vision, and they’re not kidding.

On one occasion commuting home, after hitting full beam on a fast descent that is periodically prone to having oil sprayed across the kerbside lane by government buses, I came to a sudden stop behind a small hatchback at the red traffic light at the bottom of the hill. The full 2700 lumens fired straight in the back window. An almost instant  ”What the hell is that?!” exploded from the driver (I’ve cleaned up the language) followed by a sheepish mumbled apology from me and my hand quickly covering the light while I bumped the intensity down.

Light Modes
As noted in the race report above, it is still possible to get confused about which light mode you’re in. In a race situation stopping to check is not something you prefer to do, and taking one’s hands off the bar to dab the button carries some obvious risks! This is no different to any other competitor’s light and so can’t be highlighted as a disadvantage, rather it’s something I would like to see addressed in any MTB light set up.

My other suggestion about the modes involves the flashing mode, or rather the lack of a regular one. The only flashing mode available gives you an SOS morse code signal that cannot be disengaged without unplugging the light. It is obvious that MyTinySun are not aiming this light at the city commuting market, rather it is intended to attract the serious mountain biker or back-country rider. Having a light that can be more useful on commutes, however, would help to justify its price.

Conclusion
My experience at the Mont speaks for itself. For their intended use as off-road trail lights, the Sport 2700x really hits the mark. The remarkable light output with a wide and even beam spread changed my riding from grinding and picking my way carefully around barely-seen obstacles, to flowing my way to bettering my night time lap speeds. Even with a whopping 2700 lumens, these still work best in combination with helmet mountain light which can be a lower powered light with a hotspot.

I’m really grateful to the importers for the opportunity to test this light, as I had almost given up on night mountain bike riding. It transformed a challenging, unpleasant and tense experience into the brilliant fun it always should have been, and has restored my appetite for night racing. I can’t wait for the next event!

MyTinySun also have handlebar remote versions: Pro 2800x (also with 3 Cree LEDs) and a dual lamp (6 Cree LEDs) called the PRO 3600X. Yes, that’s right, 3600 lumens of light. That will burn holes into the landscape!

Great:
• Wide, even beam spread.
• Awesome total light output and punch
• Outstanding run time
• Easy to use
• No “off” phase when switching between intensity modes.

Not so great:
• No flash mode for commuter use
• Easy to dazzle other road users if you’re careless

MyTinySun lights are available directly from the Australian MyTinySun website, the Sport 2700x as review retails for $629 the 5.8Ah battery pack.

Photos 1 & 4 expertly taken by, and used with kind permission of, Aurora Images www.auroraimages.com.au, official event photographers for the Mont 24 Hour Race.

When it comes to trainers, the most common questions on cycling forums seem to be about road feel and noise. It’s well documented that wind trainers are loud, magnetic trainers can be loud, and fluid trainers tend to be quieter, at least quieter than the fan you should have in your “torture chamber” to keep your body heat regulated while you train (in which case you don’t have the wind evaporating sweat from you on a trainer, and if you over-heat your performance is going to suffer).

As for road feel, most people seem to agree that fluid trainers are the way to go. Road feel in a trainer refers to the non-linear response of the trainer to the effort you put in on the bike. When you’re on the road, wind resistance will slow you down at a greater rate the faster you go, which means that the faster you go, the harder it is to go faster. Fluid trainers, as the name suggests, use fluid to provide resistance, and this fluid gives you this non-linear resistance change (compared to magnetic resistance trainers where the resistance usually increases linearly).

So, if you want a quiet trainer with good road feel, a fluid trainer is the trainer you want, which brings us to the purpose of this review: the Gistitalia Ride Fluid Trainer. Gistitalia are, as the name suggests, an Italian company who manufacture and distribute a range of fitness products, but they’re not a company I had heard of before. As such, I had to let the product speak for itself, since I had no reputation to go on.

The trainer arrived boxed in a fairly simple white box with a drawing of a woman riding a bike on a trainer. There is Italian and English on the box, but only really enough to let you know what’s inside of it; there’s no hype or gloss. When you open it you’re presented with the trainer stand, a box containing the fluid resistance unit, an instruction manual, a quick release skewer, and some bits to put it all together. The manual that comes with the trainer is in a number of languages, one of which resembles English, but by following the diagrams it was easy to assemble the trainer and in under 10 minutes I had the bike mounted and was ready to ride.

Before I talk about how it performs, let me give you my initial impression of the trainer: cheap. The trainer stand, which is the bulk of the package, doesn’t look very spectacular at all. The magnetic trainer I’ve been using for a few seasons looks like it was worth the price I paid for it, and many other fluid trainers on the market also look like machines that will help you get fit with their sleekness or colour scheme or electronic add-ons. The Gistitalia trainer looked like the type of cheap trainer you’d buy for $50 from a department store or supermarket because you thought you’d try a trainer out but didn’t want to drop big money on it.

This impression, however, lasts only as long as it takes to get the frame out of the box and have a close look at it. While the format of the trainer is very simple, there is no mistaking the quality of the build. All of the welds are solid, uniform, well ground and polished. The metal parts of the stand are well machined and the bolts, springs and adjusting screws are well fitted and tidy. There are no sharp edges, dodgy paint jobs or misalignments. Everything that’s meant to move moves, and everything else doesn’t. It’s a very solid and elegant piece of industrial design and it looks like it’s going to last a lifetime. The trainer is simply built, but it’s very well made simplicity.

The fluid resistance unit is, once again, extremely well made. Every surface has been finished carefully and it feels sturdy in the hand. The only fragile looking part of the whole setup is the resistance adjustment lever, but it seems that this is meant to be a consumable. The frame and fluid unit have a lifetime warranty, but the other parts of the trainer, the ones that actually come into human or ground contact, are available as spare parts quite cheaply. This isn’t to say that these parts are cheap, they don’t feel it, but they’re the parts that will wear out first and it’s quite easy to see, when you examine the trainer, how simple it would be to swap the parts out for new ones when you need to. It really speaks to the longevity of the trainer; you won’t be throwing this one out because one part of it doesn’t work anymore.

So I was quickly impressed by the trainer, but I was yet to ride it, so I jumped on the bike and I settled in for a training session. I decided to leave the resistance set at the “zero” level, with no tension on the cable at all. I did this because many of the top end fluid trainers don’t have resistance adjustment, so I wanted to see if this trainer could give me a real workout just by changing the gears for resistance, much like the other trainers do.

I had read that fluid trainers take some time to warm up and that certainly seemed the case here. With my mag trainer, the resistance is instant and I either have to put it on the lowest resistance setting while my legs warm up, or spin in an easy gear for a while. The fluid trainer starts off feeling like it’s not there at all (with the fan going, you can’t hear it) and the fluid inside the unit warms up as your legs do. I was pedaling with a constant cadence (plus or minus a couple of rpms) and it took about 8 – 10 minutes before I really began to notice that there was a resistance there. I upped the cadence a bit and it felt like I was riding on a good flat road that went on forever. I kept the cadence at that level for a while and didn’t feel any change in resistance at all, much like my mag trainer. Unlike my mag trainer, however, when you increase the speed, there was definitely a noticeable change in resistance.

When I sprint on my mag trainer, I can hit some seriously whacky speeds, speeds that I would never be able to hit on the flat ground simply because I could never get my on-road cadence that high in those gears. While this is great for doing cadence drills, it’s not “real”. On the fluid trainer, you simply can’t get your cadence that high easily because the resistance of the fluid will increase the faster you go; the road feel I was talking about earlier. If you’re doing long consistent efforts, you won’t see a difference between mag trainers and fluid trainers, but if you’re doing intervals and changing your cadence and gearing to simulate climbing, pack surges, sprints and the like, you’ll really want to use a fluid trainer.

What the Gistitalia Ride Fluid has that many other similar trainers don’t have, is variable resistance. Variable resistance is quite common on mag trainers where it’s simple to implement and provides the higher end difficulty that comes naturally on fluid trainers. Variable resistance on fluid trainers is a bit rare and its absence is marketed as a “feature” on other trainers, rather than as something missing. I suspect it’s missing from fluid trainers because it’s quite hard to do right, particularly when you want to keep the fluid inside the resistance unit. Gistitalia seem to have gotten past any difficulties, however, and the variable resistance adds something interesting to the trainer.

According to the Ital-ish in the instruction manual, the variable resistance allows you to simulate hills of up to 5%. This is interesting from a training point of view since simulating climbing on a fluid trainer without variable resistance requires using a bigger gear that’s harder to turn over. There is a big difference between pushing a big gear and pushing a small gear, between using the chain rings for the purpose they were meant for and using them to simply provide resistance. It’s very nice to know that the road feel of the Gistitalia trainer can be maintained while also allowing for some hill training. Leave the resistance at “zero” and you have a normal fluid trainer. Ramp it up and you’re going up a ramp. As Eddy Merckx famously said, “Don’t buy upgrades; ride up grades”.

So I think I’ve done a fair job selling fluid trainers in this review, but what about the Gistitalia trainer itself? Is it better than other trainers? I simply don’t know. This was the first fluid trainer I used and I can see why people often prefer them to mag trainers. On paper, the Gistitalia Ride Fluid Trainer is a comparable product to most of the quality fluid trainers currently on the market. I had a look at a few others in the flesh and think that the Gistitalia product is better built, but I can’t speak to comparable performance. I did get a chance to try a Kurt Kinetic Road Machine for a session and didn’t see any real difference between the Kurt and the Gistitalia, but that’s a completely non-rigorous comparison and not something I would stake my life on. The Gistitalia is certainly not worse and the addition of the variable resistance, which the Kurt doesn’t have, may be of added value to some.

The Gistitalia Ride Fluid, while wonderful as it stands, needs just one more touch to make it a more useful machine. If you are after a trainer that does all that I mentioned above, the Gistitalia Ride Fluid is a complete package, go and get one. If, however, you’re a race tragic like me, then you’ll want to train with power. If you’re even more like me, you’ve got other things to spend your money on than a power meter. That’s where virtual power is a God send. Trainer Road is a subscription service that allows you to wirelessly connect your Garmin type devices to your laptop and then be guided through workouts on your trainer. For best results you use it with a power meter, but if you don’t have one, and you’re using the same trainer setup for all of your workouts (as I am), then you can use virtual power. Basically, you select the model of trainer you have at home from the list they supply and the system uses speed/power calibration curves to map your speed to output power. While it’s not going to be entirely accurate, it will be pretty repeatable between workouts, so you can get a good picture of how you’re improving.

The Gistitalia Ride Fluid is not on that list, but it can be. I contacted the Australian distributor, Velogear, and asked them about it. They did some research on Trainer Road, and they’re now trying to get some calibration curves done for this trainer. In the mean time they pointed me towards some workouts on their website designed by a former Australian Olympic cyclist who used the Gistitalia trainer in her workouts. I’m keen to get the power data, however, since I really want to use this trainer with Trainer Road. My mag trainer is supported there, but I really do prefer to train on the fluid trainer.

There are many fluid trainers on the market, so it’s hard for the consumer to pick a good one without some inside knowledge. Much like bikes, any trainer will do the job it’s meant to do, but a good trainer, like a good bike, will make you want to use it more. I have found the Gistitalia Ride Fluid to be such a trainer, and my mag trainer is now gathering dust in the corner. It’s well constructed, quite in operation and it gives you a good, consistent road feel. The lifetime warranty on the “big” parts attests to the manufacturer’s belief in the product’s quality, and the availability of affordable replacement parts for the wearable components means you’ll have a usable trainer for a long time to come. Add in the variable resistance, which is much more than just a novelty, and I think you’ve got a trainer that’s more than holds it’s own against its competitors.

The Gistitalia Ride Fluid Bicycle Trainer is available from Velogear Australia for $289 and they also provide Australian warranty service and spare parts.

1. Obree, G., “The Obree Way – A training manual for cyclists”, 2012

The Demo Pair: Rudy Project Zyons
In order to test Sports Optical’s claims, I decided to see if they could fit a prescription lens to a pair of Rudy Project Zyons. While many Rudy Project sunglasses are designed to take a prescription insert, Sports Optical claim they are able to create a distance or even multi-focal lens for almost any model in the Rudy Project range. The Zyons are a tough frame to grind a lens for; they wrap around quite a lot and have large lenses. It would be quite a challenge to get a clear image out of every angle due to the large curvature.

I provided my prescription details (it’s best to scan your full prescription printout), selected the frame, and about 6 weeks later I received a pair of Rudy Project Zyon glasses with a polarized brown lens in a -1.00 prescription. While this is a mid-to-low power prescription (it can get a lot worse than this), it’s still a reasonable challenge to grind for a wraparound frame. Also included, surprisingly, was a matching pair of clear lenses for winter riding.

First Impressions
At first, I thought something might have been wrong. Something didn’t feel right. And after speaking with Sports Optical, I  received a lesson in prescription lens manufacture. Making a curved lens is a highly specialised procedure. Since the frames are not the exact same shape as your eyeball, the lens manufacturer has to estimate the distance from your pupil to the lens and adjust the magnification appropriately. In the case of my Zyons, I needed to sit them a bit closer to my face, which then brought things into alignment.

In Use
I was really impressed with the overall product. On the bike, the glasses Sports Optical provided were light, clear and comfortable. I saw no noticeable distortion and no glare in my eyes when the sun was behind me. I enjoyed using them so much that I took I took the chance to try these out in various other sports for comparison.

Touch football and soccer proved to be no problem. Cricket and tennis, however, highlighted the inherent compromise of a heavily curved lens. There was sometimes a slight distortion in tracking a ball’s flight through my peripheral vision. With my regular, flat-lens glasses (non-tinted), I’ve never noticed any of these anomalies. This really turned out to be the only area in which I could notice a real-world effect of the highly-curved prescription lenses. Interestingly, I was extremely surprised at how quickly I was able to get used to this. If you engage in ball sports regularly, however, it is worth considering whether curved prescription lenses would be suitable.

The Rudy Project Zyons frame and Sports Optical lenses were really well suited to cycling. The slight lens distortion that was noticeable in the peripheral vision for ball sports never affected judging distance on the bike, picking up irregularities in the road or anything else. Small details on the horizon were just as sharp as the stones and bitumen in front of my tire.

Of course, polarized brown are just about the only way to go for picking up this detail. Grey lenses wash out the contrast of shadows, which are so important for judging distances and depth. In very low-light situations, a rose lens can provide the contrast of a brown lens, while not blocking too much light. Sports Optical can provide all of these in the prescription that you need.

As mentioned, the lenses that Sports Optical provided were very light. They’re made of polycarbonate, have excellent impact resistance characteristics, and can be treated with additional anti-scratch coatings (for a small additional fee, with a 2 year warranty).

Purchasing
Buying glasses online can be intimidating. Fit is very personal and it can be a disaster if things go wrong. Sports Optical were extremely helpful in answering my questions and seemed genuinely passionate about what they do. While many companies see the internet as a chance to distance themselves from their customers and make everything automated to increase volume, Sports Optical encourage anyone interested in buying from them start up a dialogue first – they want you to let them know what you want, what you like and what you’re looking for so they can help you throughout the entire process. Their staff can help you select a style that will suit or advise on lenses. They’re available through Facebook, email or even telephone.

Being a manufacturer, they are able to customise almost anything too. We began to discuss custom grindings and tintings and I quickly got out of my depth. Photochromic options are available, along with custom vents or anti-scratch coatings and more. In my case they were proactive in ensuring that they had everything they needed to be able to deliver a flawless product.

Overall, Sports Optical are attempting to provide the personalised service of a bricks-and-mortar from the other side of the world. In our view, they’re doing a pretty good job of it. I know what I like in a pair of sunglasses and I’ve spent more than I’d care to imagine on them in the past. After discussing my needs with them, Sports Optical suggested almost exactly the same lenses (colour, polarization, tint) I’d picked out and paid for myself just a few months earlier. Passing this genuine test gave me real comfort in writing this review.

Pricing
The prescription lenses from Sports Optical start at $195 with the upgrade to polarized another $54 on top. Purchasing the frames through Sports Optical was cheaper than sourcing it elsewhere and the overall package represented a decent discount on what I could get from a local bricks and mortar store. The big advantage, as I see it, lies in their custom solutions. The cost of this, I know from experience, escalates quickly when dealing with retailers, but seems much more reasonable with Sports Optics.

Sports frames start at $89 and second lenses qualify for a 20% discount. Returning customers (and their extended family!) also receive a 20% discount off their entire order. So, as well as very personalised advice and custom solutions, the possible savings really start to add up.

Being an overseas company, Sports Optical can’t directly bill your health fund provider. However, they can provide invoices and proof of purchase, and you can then apply for reimbursement. It’s worth calling your health provider to ensure you know the cover they are able to provide, and what they need to process this.

Conclusion
Sports Optical have done a remarkable job of fitting a wraparound style pair of cycling glasses with a prescription lens. For riding, the acuity is excellent. Of course, there are inherent challenges  in trying to fit lenses to difficult frames, but you do get the benefit of being able to chat with the very people who will be making your glasses and they will let you know exactly what can and can’t be done.

It really makes sense to take your time when ordering anything online, especially when there are a lot of variables that you need to consider. Sports Optical tell us that this is what they want to be known for, taking the time to give you good advice. So if you’re interested, give them a call or drop them an email and they will be more than happy to help you through each step of the process.

You can check-out Sports Optical online, www.sportsoptical.com or send them an email and tell them that Danny from Australia says “G’Day”.

‘Puncture proof’ or ‘airless tyres’ seem to be one of those inventions that emerge from hibernation periodically to be hailed as one of those eureka moments: “At last, we have perfected it”. These ‘innovations’ seem to disappear shortly after and recede back into hibernation yet again.  The reality is that the idea is sound and, for certain cycling groups, particularly commuters, should be a seriously viable option.  But mention them to many cyclists and you are greeted with a roll of the eyes, a groan of despair or tales of what a disaster they were when they last came to prominence.

When the ‘safety bicycle’ was invented by JK Starley back in 1885, the solid wheels meant that acceptance of the new machine was not as it could have been.  John Boyd Dunlop then revolutionised the wheel through the invention of the pneumatic tyre.  Whilst Robert Thomson preceded Dunlop by 40 years with his ‘vulcanised pneumatic tyre’, cost was a major impediment, and Dunlop succeeded where Thomson wasn’t able to, and therefore enjoyed the accolades.  Since then, aside from ongoing continuous improvement, the pneumatic tyre remains essentially the same as it has always been: practical, cheap, brilliantly simple, but yet still prone to punctures from the many roadside hazards.

The Tannus range
Tannus claim to have solved the problems keeping solid tyres off the market for over a hundred years. They sell a range of tyres in different sizes, hardnesses and colours. The tyres I was supplied with were the Tannus ‘Musai’, and I tried the H1 (hard @ 133psi) and S1 (soft @ 101psi) models, both in the 700 x 23c configuration (though they’re also now available in a 28C size).  The other tyres in Tannus’s range are the ‘Thoroki’, available in 26” x 1.75”, 26″ x 1 3/8”  and 700 x 32c,  and the ‘Nymph’ in 20” x 1 1/8”, 20″ x 1.25” or 16” x 1.25”. There’s something in there for all of the family. The Tannus range is produced by Midas Tires in Korea who are holders of 3 patents related to the airless tyres.  The entire range of sizes is available in a hard or soft option, as well as 13 very vivid colours with such inspiring names as Volcano, Melon or Pink Lady to name but a few.

The test bike I used for this review was a 2011 Kona Honky Inc, a double disc drop bar road bike with a steel frame.  This doubled as a part time commuter, and a recreational road bike the rest of the time.

The first thing that you notice with these tyres is that the packaging is big. I have become so used to folding tyres that to see a box that big was a surprise. Supplied with each tyre is a fitting tool, two sets of clips and some instructions.  Here is one of the first snags that make these tyres a bit more awkward that what I’m generally used to. In order to fit the tyres correctly, you need to know the internal width of the rim so that the correct clips can be supplied.  This is not a step that can be treated with an Aussie “ah, she’ll be right mate, that’s close enough”; this is the only mechanism that secures the tyre firmly on the rim, so it needs to be done properly. Each of the retainer clip sizes are a different colour which aids in ensuring that the correct units are fitted.

Once you are certain about the internal rim width, the old tyre can be removed and then you follow the supplied instructions, or view one of many instructional videos found on the web.  The steps for installing the tyres are clear, quite well written, and, most importantly, accurate.

Fitting the tyres
Fitting the tyres was, in my experience, a considerable task.  Inserting the coloured retainers into the tyre and getting the tyre on the rim was, if anything, a bit fiddly, but presented no major issues. After that, however, it got more than a bit difficult as the tyre was not yet properly seated on the rim. Luckily, I have a fairly solid build and my local gym instructor has been working on developing my upper body strength, because it required all of that to get all of those clips to seat into the bead seat hook.  The first tyre took around 35 minutes to install but, with some technique improvements, the second tyre went on a bit quicker, but not much.

Those who are inexperienced at tyre changing or are of slight build may want to get some assistance in fitting these tyres. Some of the retailers that sell these tyres have been fitting them for customers and, if this is available , my advice is to accept the offer or even actively seek it. Once fitted, the tyres sat well on the rims and rotated well with no apparent ‘out of round’ issues. The missing valve stem was a curiosity, we get so used to something being there.

The weight of the tyres was within 5 grams of the quoted weight from the Tannus website, being 375g each.  The clips added another 11g per wheel when assembled. When you consider that a similar tubed setup on a road bike comes to ~ 700g (that’s tyres & tubes at ~500g and a mini pump or CO2 system,  plus repair kit at ~200g), the overall weight penalty is an un-noticeable 50 – 120g.  As such, weight cannot be realistically used as a reason not to give  the Tannus tyres a go.

First ride
Two things become quickly apparent when riding with these tyres. The first is that when standing to accelerate, either from lights or spinning along, the bike responds instantly. The second is how the tyres respond to everything else, particularly road indentations and surfaces.

My first ride was my regular commute route that I cover on Friday mornings.  It typically covers 50 – 55km and involves only 200m of elevation gain, but those hills are between 4 – 6% gradient. Aside from the different response to the small road undulations and typical suburban bitumen repairs, it felt like I was riding tired, or my ‘tank’ was running a bit low.  My usual commute speed of 27 – 28km/hr average was down to about 25. I didn’t think much about it and surmised that it had just been a long week. Subsequent rides proved however that these tyres are in fact slower, and whilst some of this may be due to the softer front tyre that I was running, it was more likely due to the material compound used by Midas. This was confirmed in feedback from the company where they suggested that their tyres are only “1 -2 km/hr slower” than a pneumatic tyre, but they point out that their tyre is primarily aimed at commuting where speed is not such an issue, the slowing effect is less noticeable, and the benefit of not getting punctures offsets this minor speed impost.

In addition to commuting, I was also determined to see what this tyre was like on a typical recreational ride which included some climbing and descending on a typical suburban short hill of ~ 4km at an average of 5.5%. Starting with the climb, the speed penalty was even more apparent; my average speed was over 3km/hr slower and I was having to work considerably harder. The tyres however did their job and, other than being slower, worked quite well. Then came the downhill.

I approached the descent with some trepidation as I prefer my body to remain unscathed and unmarked after a ride, so I took it much easier than normal. Braking for the first sharp corner went well, with the grip level quite high, and this filled me with some confidence. There was no squirm, no tracking to one side or following ruts.  The grip around the next corner was somewhat different though; this was a tight bend signposted at 25 km/hr (recommended), which I was taking at 40 km/hr (though I normal ride it at 45 – 50km/hr on the same bike). While there was reasonable grip, it felt as though the tyre was understeering or walking across the road. I don’t know if this was related to the tyre ‘inflation’, the material grip properties, or how this solid tyre responds to the road surface and load application. Needless to say, in order to feel comfortable I had to approach the remaining corners about 30 – 40% slower than I normally would. At this reduced pace, the grip levels were fine, with no more noticeable understeering effect.

On subsequent rides I started to get used to their road response and the lines and speeds with which I needed to tackle corners safely. I did not get an opportunity to rides these tyres in wet conditions, so can offer no comment on their wet grip capabilities.

One thing I did though, after my initial two rides, was to closely inspect the tyres. I did this for a couple of reasons: one was to ensure that the tyres were still properly secured, and the other was to check on their general condition after being used. I noticed that several of the retainers weren’t seated fully under the bead hook on one side, despite post fitment inspection seemingly showing that they were installed correctly.  A few minutes with the supplied tool, and all was good again.

Inflated claims?
To give  a better idea of these tyres compared to standard pneumatic tyres, I compared the Musais to a pair of Rubino 23c tyres that I had sitting around.  The widths of the two tyres were very similar (< 3% difference) at just under 23mm, but the height above the bead seat was a different story.  The Rubino was 19.5mm above the rim wall, while the Musais were only 14.2mm – a 35% difference!  The Musais showed a noticeably ‘squarer’ profile that results in a larger/wider contact patch on the road which was likely a significant contributor towards the higher observed rolling resistance. This profile may also be behind the cornering effect noted earlier. After 265 kms of use, there was some sign of wear on the tyres, with the rear tyre obviously showing slightly more. Feedback from the distributor indicated that they believe the tyres to have a useable lifespan of up to 10,000km, and I think this is realistic, given their solid construction. 

One situation I encountered during the test was a broken rear spoke (the wheel had done over 6,500 km) and I had to deal with the problem of removing the tyre. There are, apparently, two ways of doing this, but sadly both methods mean that the tyre is probably not going to be useable again.  I tried to prise the tyre from the rim using the supplied tool, as per the instructions (both written and in the youtube clips), but to no avail. I therefore had to resort to the ‘cut’ method.  Either way, the retaining clips tended to rip through the lower rib of the tyre, meaning that they are no longer effective in securing the tyre to the rim. That said, I can vouch unequivocally for the strength of those 30 odd retaining clips on the rim; the Tannus tyres will not come off easily.

Summary
At $77 each plus shipping, they are not a cheap alternative to the wide range of pneumatic tyres that are available, but when you consider that they can last the same distance as two sets, in terms of cost they are close. Whether they are a suitable replacement is up to the individual to evaluate. When you factor in the guarantee of no punctures, they start to stack up; how much is the reliability of your commuter worth? The altered road response that you get with these tyres does take some getting used to though; after a few rides, however, the memory banks have adjusted accordingly.

The ability to choose from multiple common tyre sizes and a couple of ‘base pressures’, along with the myriad of effervescent colours (13 in all) to really coordinate, means that there is generally a tyre to suit most applications and bikes that are ridden, particularly as commuters.

My preference would be the softer tyre configuration (S1), as this has a better ‘response’ to the road imperfections, and more closely mimics the pneumatic tyre feel that I’m accustomed to. I also feel that the Tannus tyres are better suited for use in a purely commuter based role rather than general open road/recreational riding. At the current level of development, the Tannus tyres are not capable enough for recreational riding/training.  That’s not to say that they wouldn’t be ideal candidates for those that opt to tour on some inhospitable roads in remote areas, since the benefit of not having to worry about punctures would be significant. However, there are many well proven touring tyres that have established reputations, so this may be a hard obstacle to overcome.

The increased resilience of the Tannus tyres over the traditional pneumatic tyre also means that these tyres are realistically better suited to the more robust style wheelsets where there are greater spoke counts and sturdier rims, rather than the typical lightweight minimally spoked road wheel that tends to be found on many road bikes.

We have become so used to how well the pneumatic tyre performs its task that we have come to accept the punctures are a necessary by-product or acceptable trade off. It is certainly easy to dismiss new versions of old ideas, though I am glad to have had the chance to try these first before making my judgement.

Find more about the Tannus tyre range, as well as get access to the comprehensive supporting documentation, online at www.tannus.com

Some Australian bike shops now stocking the Tannus and to find out where to get hold of this, visit www.tannus.com.au

G8 produces innersoles in two versions, the ARCHTECH™ 1800 and the ARCHTECH™ 2600 PRO, with the key differences being the number of positions to which the arch support can be adjusted. Many innersoles available on the market currently are limited in that they offer a single position for arch support. G8 recognised this limitation and have made a business out of producing performance innersoles for sporting types.

Aside from the 4 arch supports that you get in the box, there are two features that seem to make these innersoles different from the others that I have seen: the metatarsal pad and the ‘frame’ that cossets the heel area to provide stability to the foam base as well as linkage to the arch support section. The innersoles are currently sold in 4 sizes(S, M, L and XL) which covers shoe sizes from EU37 to 49, so they should be suitable for most people. The toe of the innersole needs to be trimmed to the individual shoe to ensure a snug fit. I used an XL pair to fit into my Sidi EU47 shoes with no problems.

As previously mentioned, the key unique feature of these innersoles are the adjustable arch supports – there are 4 of them and they can be snapped into differing positions on the innersoles in a matter of seconds. This means that not only can positional changes be made quickly and efficiently, the levels of support can also be altered as you need them. You can even set up each foot differently depending on what level and position of support you require. This was something that I was to find invaluable later on.

I initially set up the innersoles with the smallest of the arch supports (R18) and positioned the support where I thought it would work the best. I soon realised that if I wanted to do justice to these performance innersoles, I needed help. I contacted my local podiatrist, Mr Dave Visockis from The Podiatry Studio, to help me understand the intricacies of these supports and to also help set them up to gain the maximum benefit from them, rather than just guess at what works. After all, they represent a fair monetary investment, so it only makes sense to utilise them to their fullest. It was in these meetings and discussions with Dave that I learned a significant amount about proper foot support, the immeasurable complexity of the foot, and its relationship to our movement.

I had a consultation with Dave regarding my current cycling situation, how I had initially set up the G8s, my relevant medical history (i.e. my accident), and whether I had any issues with my current footwear. The result of all of this was the installation of the highest arch supports (R30) and locating the supports so that they matched the contour of my feet in a static position, as seen from a podiatrist’s viewpoint. We then discussed the sort of issues that I needed to look out for and was told to ride away with an “I’ll see you in 6 weeks” and a handshake. I was told that, regardless of whether the innersole is solid, as in a custom orthotic, or ‘flexible’, as with the G8, the body would take some time to become accustomed to the new setup. If there were any significant issues, however, they would show up quickly.

For a variety of reasons, my riding over the next 6 weeks was a bit more varied than normal, but apart from the initial feeling that was something different in my shoe, I never had an issue. It was noticeable that the overall height of the innersole, particularly at the heel, was a tiny bit thicker than the standard wafer like innersoles, but it never presented an issue during any of my rides.

So, did it make a difference? I can honestly say that there were no magical performance gains, no slashing of ascent times up any of my local climbs, no drug-like sprint advantages, but then again I’m no pro-level athlete. What I did notice though was that my feet were comfortable, they felt supported, and I did not encounter any issues prior to my follow-up visit to Dave.

During that period Dave was also provided with a pair of the ARCHTECH™ 2600 PRO innersoles that were initially too small for me, so that he could  evaluate them, and not just from a cycling perspective. I asked him the following questions regarding his experiences:

BNA: What was your initial impression of the G8 system and now, having used them yourself, has that opinion changed ?

Dave: My initial impression was curiosity about how they would affect function or comfort, but I loved how adjustable they were, unlike anything else in the market. Having used them as a consumer, they give you an equivalent feel underfoot as a fully customised device. Once setup correctly, very comfortable. In regards to performance, the jury’s out, needs more research.

BNA: What are the potential advantages of the G8 system over traditional custom made rigid orthotics ?

Dave: Their flexibility and therefore comfort underfoot, and their low-profile, their fit in traditionally difficult to fit footwear (e.g. cycling shoes) is very easy. To achieve the same with traditional rigids is much more difficult, especially with fit, but also with flexibility of the device material itself.

BNA: What is the key standout feature in your opinion ?

Dave: Definitely their adjustability. The ability to setup, road test, and then tweak as required is a lot harder with rigid devices.

BNA: What are potential improvements that could be made to the G8’s ?

Dave: Higher and lower arch heights, something the company is already working on. Also, the addition of an adjustable metatarsal dome would be nice to help address a common complaint among cyclists: forefoot ‘hot spots’.

BNA: There are some significant claims made by G8 for their innersoles. Given your experience with them now, do you see any validity to them?

Dave: Need to be scientifically tested, but not unreasonable.

BNA: Given the complex nature of the human foot, what is your advice to potential customers that either require innersoles to correct a current issue, or those thinking about getting ‘something better’ than the standard liner in many current (cycling) shoes?

Dave: G8s are by far the most adjustable innersoles on the market, so are easily tweaked to suit most foot types. If you have pain that may need professional assessment, it’s best to consult with a health professional with a special interest in cycling to see if something more customised is required, i.e. custom orthotics, Physio or bike refit.

BNA: Is the investment (innersoles + advice) in the G8 system worthwhile for the average/recreational cyclist ?

Dave: Yes, definitely, a good starting point for someone looking for a more comfort inshoe. They can be successfully self fitted or professionally tweaked as required. When it comes to performance enhancement or symptom alleviation, experiences will depend on the level of pathology and personal experience, but more specific research is required.

By the time I got back to see Dave for a second adjustment, I was getting ready to ramp up my riding in preparation for the Alpine Audax Classic in Bright in January. After some discussion on my findings to date, Dave reviewed the static arch position and felt that the support needed to be moved further forward (one position) and laterally (one position outward towards the outside of the foot) on both feet. My initial impression was that it felt significantly different to the positioning before. That evening I headed out for a ride, and a 50km flat ride later, felt no real issues.

The next day however, after setting off for a climb up a local favourite, I noticed that on the left foot there was some pain coming from the outboard area. After a short while (I hadn’t even started the major part of the climb yet), I had had enough and I stopped the bike and made an ‘on the fly’ adjustment, moving the arch support rearward one position (but still retaining the last lateral change), and set off again a minute later. The pain was significantly reduced and I pedaled onward.

Further into the climb however, it was still bothering me enough to stop once again and undo the lateral change as well. So now I had the left foot back to the original setting from David and the right foot with the latest setting. The ride, from then, was completed without issue and I have covered a further 1,400km since, with over 16,000m of climbing, with no issues.

On relaying this information back to David, his response was:

Dave: From memory, we moved the arch piece forward and laterally (towards the outside of your foot), which would’ve shifted the load on your down stroke towards that painful spot, the 5th metatarsal head. Good you changed back and things settled, well done. What this displays to me is the fact that we can make mechanical changes to the way your foot works with a subtle adjustment and the ‘minimal support’ the G8s provide, really just altering the proprioceptive feedback of your foot. Also, the fact you can make adjustments on the fly like that also makes me a fan of the devices. Great result overall!

So are they worth it? I had been considering for some time whether I could have a better, more supportive innersole in my shoes, but was always confused as to what I should get as I didn’t know what was ‘needed’ for my foot geometry. As mentioned before, I wasn’t aware of any problems that I had, so what should I get to solve something that isn’t an issue ?

The discussions that I had with David regarding foot construction, behaviour, and proprioception (an interesting topic in itself, see wikipedia) showed me that whilst I may not have any known issues, there is a distinct advantage to be had even from a preventative perspective. Certainly the support provided by the standard innersoles with my shoes was non-existent. Having experienced the G8s now for well over 3,000kms, having seen how my feet are now setup differently (as are my cleats due to leg length issues), having seen their adjustability, I can say that the investment is more than worthwhile, especially when combined with a professional that can explain and assist with the optimal setup.

I cannot prove or disprove the claims from G8, but I have seen how they have helped me feel that my foot is better supported in my cycling shoes and how they give me a level of confidence that I am doing the best I can in this area. At the end of the day, it hasn’t made a noticeable difference or improvement, but that may come in the future, particularly with my specific medical issues.

So who should buy them? Certainly, for anyone with current issues (professional or recreational sportspeople), they are something that should be seriously considered in line with advice from a professional that understands what the G8s are capable of. They provide key benefits over the traditional rigid orthotics (adjustability, low weight and affordability), and with the right advice can be set up quickly and easily.

For the average recreational cyclist/sports person (they are also suitable for use in walking and/or running shoes), they could be considered as more of a preventative support that can assist with ensuring that any future problems are minimised or avoided completely. At around $110 for the 2600 Pro versions (the 1800s are just under $100), it is not an insignificant investment. However, if you consider it a form of ‘insurance’ for your feet, it makes sense as the feet are pretty important appendages for your mobility, now and in the future. After all, how much do we spend on a new bike that doesn’t really make us any faster?

You can find out more from G8 Performance and also purchase from the Australian website: www.g8performance.com. A number of bike fitters in Australia also carry and fit G8 Performance inner soles for cycling.

edited: 22.03.2013 – updated link to The Podiatry Studio

I discovered the difference between good sunnies and cheap sunnies back in the 90′s when I was working hard as a slave to the fast food industry. I saved up a small fortune to buy a pair of quality sunnies, some Arnette’s. They not only made me feel and look good, they were also comfortable and lasted as good sunnies should.  This doesn’t mean I have ignored budget sunglasses completely, though in my experience the difference in quality is like night and day. On the one hand, the cheap sunnies are more easily replaceable if you scratch or break them, but on the other, they usually aren’t as comfortable, they tend to fog up easily, and they may be more likely to let wind through.

The RadarLock Path are definitely a quality pair of sunnies. They are ‘wrap around’ blade style sports sunglasses which Oakley promote as ‘revolutionary’ due to their new mechanism for changing lenses: Switchock. Lets take a look at this technology first.

The Oakley SwitchLock System
If you are familiar with changing lenses on most sports sunglasses, you’ll be familiar with the bending and squeezing required to get the new lense into place. I have never broken a lense doing this and, while it’s a bother, it has never been a major turn-off. Oakley originally presented Switchlock in their Jawbones however in the Radar models this is a completely different system. The Oakley switchlock makes this process of changing lenses on the Radar a little less straight forward at first but thereafter much easier to regularly change lenses. As the major feature of this model, let’s go into detail and unveil the mystery.

1. As a right-hander, to change the lense I held the glass upside down and located the black button with my thumb. What looks like a button you press is in fact a slide button, so using your thumb you slide this back in the direction of the arm.

2. As you slide the button back, with your index finger on the outside you then pull twist the frame in. Obviously, the arms of the sunglasses fold in, but the pivot that will allow the lense to be released is a little further forward.

3. When the corner starts folding in you can release the little black button – the switchlock is now open and the lense can be removed. This is fairly straight forward, the nosepiece wraps onto the lense so you manouver the lense from the nose piece.

4. The lense has little hooks built into its shape and so pulling the lense up-and-out releases the lense from the frame.

Putting a new lense in becomes a little easier; hook the corner in, press the nose piece into the lense and now it sits in place so that you can simply open the sunglasses arm and it all clicks into place.

The switchlock system works well so there is a little less prodding and poking than with other systems. The real advantage is when you ride in different conditions and can decide just before going out which lense you want. After using these sunglasses for a while it took me less that ten seconds for a pitstop to swap the lenses. If you don’t need to change lenses, then the whole switchlock is unnecessary.

The criticism of this system is that you will still get the lense grubby and you’ll need a lense cloth, however there is no lense cloth included though it should be standard. Not a big deal, though for all of the detail Oakley have put into the RadarLock Path, why not go that extra step?

The Details
The Oakley RadarLock Paths come initially with two lenses, which sets you up to be able to benefit from their switchlock system, and the whole package comes in a robust case which nicely holds, pads, and protects the glasses and lenses in transport. You even get a second nose pad which is a little thicker so you can ‘micro-adjust’ and get a good fit.

To further assist in getting a good fit, these sunnies include “unobtanium”. This term is usually used to describe a material or substance that would perfectly resolve a problem in product design but is in itself impossible. After Jim Jannard founded Oakley, he developed a material called unobtainium for use in his eyewear, and in this case the ‘ear sock’ features this rubber type overlay. The point of the Oakley unobtainium is that when it gets wet, such as with sweat, it becomes tacky and thus has better grip. Under a tap I didn’t find that these ‘ear socks’ felt tackier, in fact the opposite, but as I will explain later the fit was that good that this wasn’t an issue.

One of the features that Oakley provide with many glasses is customisation of colours and lenses so that you can mix and match and create a pair of sunnies with the colours you want. The sunnies for review were a standard configuration and quite serious and tech looking with the ‘matt heather grey’ which included accents of black and gunmetal Oakley logos.

When it comes to sunnies, the most important details are the lenses. When you hold the lenses they don’t feel cheap, they had a had a good feel which would lead you to assume that they probably won’t scratch as easily as cheap ones. The lenses are appropriately thick and the edges at the bottom were nicely rounded. There were three things that I really liked about the lenses:

1. Air vents on the top left and right which help to stop them from fogging up;
2. No logos or etching at the bottom edge of the glasses. This is actually an option, but for me these would be in my peripheral vision and I think it is more important to look through the glasses rather than to be reminded of the brand name or some technical detail.
3. Non distorted vision. I tested this claim and, in fact, there was a slight magnification, however it was very minimal and the overall vision through the glasses was consistent without noticeable distortion through the curved lense. This means avoiding headaches caused after a few hours in the saddle when your eyes start complaining that they have to adjust.

The RadarLock Paths came with a grey lense and a G30 Iridium orange lense. Both of course have UV protection and I stuck to the grey lense for the bright sunny riding conditions. The G30 Iridium lense came out for overcast and darker riding conditions as I find they enhance the perception of depth that can otherwise get lost in low and bland light. These two lenses are a good set to have and I would probably only add a clear to the set for night riding.

The Look, the Fit and the Ride
The RadarLock Paths look very fine when you are in the saddle with a helmet on, they’re truly sports sunnies. They are not the type of sunnies that I would wear outside of sport, however. I have tried Oakley Jawbones (which are now the Oakley Jackets) and while they are still sports style glasses, I feel that they look better and I would be more comfortable wearing them out and about.

With functional eyewear the fit is more important that the look. These glasses were great at the front on my nose and had enough space at the top so that the frame didn’t touch my forehead, but on the sides I felt that they pressed in too much. While it meant there was no chance of them falling off, I feared that this would give me headaches, though for the time I had them on I didn’t experience any. These sunnies are a ‘regular fit’ and there is a ‘straight stem’ version for small faces.

The good news about these glasses is that they essentially turned into the type of gear that I like the best – invisible gear. This is the type of gear that you need, like a good pair of cycling knicks, a comfortable helmet or event a groupset, that works as it should and you don’t notice it. I took the RadarLock Paths both mountain biking and road cycling and loved the clarity of the vision, and that there was no wind irritation. Fogging occured only occassionally when stopping at traffic lights and was quite light, the air vents seem to help clear the condensation.

The only criticism I have of the glasses while riding is that, when riding road, compared with mountain biking, where my body is further forward and head down, the top of the frame is in my field of vision, particularly during descents. Oakley have actually recognised this and have an XL version of the RadarLock which increase the height of the sunnies and put the frame, I assume, outside of the field of vision – and you probably get the bonus big lense “Euro-cool” pro cycling effect as well. If you are looking at the Oakley Radar range for cycling it would be worth your while to compare these two and see if the standard size works well or the whether XL is better – simply tilt your head down and look forward, imagining you are descending, and see if the frame bothers you.

It’s a Wrap
It is a matter of preference if you like the wrap around blade style sunnies or prefer two lense type sunnies such as the Oakley Flak Jacket or the bolder Racing Jacket (ex Jawbone) style. The RadarLock Paths are well crafted and for $299.95 are pretty serious for those of us lucky  to be without prescription glasses. You do get the performance and the quality, so even if you’re a weekend rider you will probably end up seeing these as a good investment – unless you are prone to sitting on, losing and scratching your glasses.

Other lenses are available (prices will vary) such as Photochromatic and Transitions. Checkout the Oakley Sports Sunglasses range online for specs and configurations. The specific configuration for the sunglasses on review (SKU# OO9181-04) can be seen here: Heather Matt Grey / G30 Iridium Vented and grey Vented.

Let me start this story from the beginning rather than the (almost) end. I have been bike commuting for many years now and I have always used flat touring pedals with toe clips. Flat pedals by themselves just didn’t allow me to ride confidently enough and I understood the value of keeping my feet on the pedals, so toe clips seemed an obvious solution.

So why didn’t I just use clipless pedals? That’s easy: clip stacks. I heard about them on discussion forums, I heard about them from injured colleagues, and I saw them happen at traffic lights. No thank you, not for me. I could get in and out of my toe clips easily (I didn’t tighten the straps) and, even better, I didn’t have to wear “tap shoes” like my friends did.

“But you don’t have to wear tap shoes, there are ones like sneakers that you can wear all day”, they said. “There are double sided pedals to make it easier to clip in”, they said. “There are pedals with platforms around them for more control when not clipped in”, they said. All true, but not for me, thank you very much. My loose strap toe clips work well enough.

And then I started racing and I raced in clipless pedals, SPD-SLs to be exact. Oh yes, they’re so much better; so very, very much better. I tried commuting in my new clipless pedals and I hated it. Actually, the riding part was great, but the constant in and out was horrible. More than that, it’s dangerous when you have to start up a hill at a set of lights with traffic behind you and you struggle to clip in, or when you have to do an emergency stop and all of your attention is in not hitting something and not what your feet are doing. Yeah, clipless are great, but…clipstacks.

The Click’R Pedals

Shimano’s clipless pedals have been evolving for as long as they’ve been making them and you can see the result of this in the Click’R pedals: they are double sided, they have a wide platform, and they have a pop-up cage. All of these features, and combinations of them, can be seen in other pedals in the SPD range. What is not seen in other SPD pedals is what’s felt, or not felt, in the Click’R pedals, and that’s the 60% less torque required to clip in and out.

Shimano have redesigned the pedal’s retention plate and have used a lighter spring. The new retention plate has a release angle of only 8 degrees, compared to the ~13 degrees of SPDs, which means you’re out of the pedals much quicker when you want to be. This is not to say that these pedals don’t hold your feet on properly, they perform that job perfectly, rather they release when you want them to and also when you need them. I’ll talk about the performance of the pedals a little later because I have to introduce the other part of the system, and that’s the shoes. I will end this section, however, by saying that the Click’R pedals are not an incremental improvement with a new name. With the Click’R pedals, Shimano may have finally made the ideal commuting pedal.

The Click’R Shoes

Like the pedals, the range of shoes that complement the Click’R pedals have features that have been seen before, but not all in one place. This range of shoes is designed to take full advantage of the Click’R pedal design and while you can use your normal SPD shoes with the Click’R pedals, there are many reasons why an upgrade would be worthwhile.

The shoes will take standard SPD cleats as well as SPD multi-directional release cleats and they’ll work with normal SPD pedals. They feature a long and deep cleat well which serves to protect the cleat and guide it into the pedal retention mechanism – more on this later. The shoes are sized well in accordance with the Shimano sizing guide (which makes it easier get the right fit) and they have a generous amount of room in the toe. The shoes are designed for walking in as much as riding in and while they have enough stiffness to transfer power to the pedal, they also have enough give to move around in them all day without changing your gait.

Regardless of any technical features the shoes may have, the best thing about them is the style. These shoes really look good. I’m not one to buy things just for the look of them, provided they’re functional, but it’s nice to have both. All of the shoes in the range look great, but the ones I had (SH-CT40) are perfect sports/casual shoes, suitable for the less formal workplace. I have had many compliments from other cyclists who have seen me riding in them and, when I commute between work campuses, I don’t need to change shoes at the other end.

How They Perform

This is the important part of the review, the stuff you don’t get in sales information or technical data. It doesn’t matter what numbers are quoted about the shoes, if they don’t work they’re useless. The Click’R pedals and shoes work.

The first thing you’ll notice about the shoes (aside from looking good) is that they’re really comfortable to wear and walk in. The first time I used them was to ride out to a road race where I was working as a traffic controller. A twenty kilometer ride there followed by 6 hours of standing in the sun, then 20kms back home, and my feet didn’t hate me. It was just like wearing very broken-in sneakers – I don’t think I’ve ever had shoes that felt that good on the first wearing. They haven’t gotten worse since then either, and I’ve been wearing them on every commute since I got them.

Clipping into the pedals with the Click’R shoes is disturbingly easy, perhaps even a little too easy. The way I clip in to the SPD-SL pedals on my racing bikes is to line the cleat up with the mechanism and push down with the ball of my foot. As expected, this works with the Click’R pedals as well, but it’s not the only way to clip in. It’s a little hard to describe, but basically you can wiggle the cleat into the mechanism from a variety of directions. You put your feet on the pedals, wiggle, hear a scrape of metal on metal and you’re clipped in. I often have to lift my foot up a little just to make sure I’m attached. The best analogy I can think of for this is magnets. Obviously, there are no magnets used here, but that’s what it’s like to clip in with this system. The pedal mechanism attracts the cleat like a magnet attracting a nail – bring the two parts close together and “zap”, they’re attached.

I think this has to do with a combination of the redesigned retention plate, the pop-up cage and the cleat well on the shoes. With these shoes and pedals you don’t need to be clipped in to use the pedals confidently. The pop-up mechanism in the pedals is smaller than the cleat well in the shoes and putting your foot on the pedal, without clipping in, will put the mechanism inside that well. This stops your shoes from sliding around all over the pedal, and puts the cleat so close to the mechanism that clipping in is near automatic.

While clipping in (and out) is very easy, your shoes are still held very firmly to the pedals. I used the multi-directional release cleats and these, coupled with the 8 degree release angle, meant that any foot motion in the plane of the pedal rotation was held, but any motion outside of that resulted in a release. This means that pushing down, pulling up, shoe scrapers, knee thrusters, moon walks or any of the other well known pedaling techniques are confidently held, even when you’re applying serious force. I’m a big guy and I can generate a fair bit of pedaling force, but I have never un-clipped when putting the power on.

Clipping out can be achieved with a traditional heel kick-out or, with the multi-directional release cleats, a number of other angled foot movements. It was a bit of a revelation for me to find out how much I roll my left foot when I’m pedaling. I never unintentionally un-clipped on the right, but I did on the left, until I turned up the tension a little. When I did unintentionally un-clip, my foot didn’t go flying off of the pedal. I would feel my foot un-clip and, without missing a beat, I could wiggle it back into clipped position. That cleat well works a treat, and the wide platform doesn’t hurt either.

At the beginning of this review I talked about clip stacks. I firmly believe that Click’R is the solution. As mentioned, any movement outside of the plane of the pedal (plus 8 degrees) means a release, especially with the multi-directional release cleats. I don’t see how anyone can stay attached to these pedals when they don’t want to be. The natural and unconscious motion of the feet and legs in an emergency situation will release you. They even work in those situations where you have to pull out both feet at the same time because you don’t know which way your bike is going to lean. In those situations you aren’t thinking of how to move your feet, you just move them; with Click’R pedals you will be un-clipped.

I’m completely taken with these pedals and I don’t want to commute in anything else. I even put them on my racing bike when I was trying to get some more training miles on it to and from work, and they felt every bit as good as my racing pedals . You get all of the benefit of clipless pedals without any of the risk, without any of the downsides. Well, almost no downsides.

The Down Side

The shoes aren’t waterproof. That’s it. I can’t find anything else wrong with these pedals or shoes except that. In the hot weather, such as Sydney’s summer, the shoes have enough ventilation on top of the toes to keep your feet relatively cool. On rainy days this ventilation lets the water in. The solution is to either wear booties on wet days, much like every other shoe out there, or learn to enjoy wet feet. That’s all I’ve got. Over a thousand kilometers,  hours of standing and walking, extremes of temperatures, multiple bikes and all I can come up with on the down side is the shoes get wet when it rains.

The Click’R pedal and shoe system look set to become the standard for urban cycling and commuting. They are the ideal commuting setup. Use your SPD-SLs for racing, your SPDs for mountain biking and your Click’Rs for commuting (and the sooner they get widely used, the sooner we can start calling them “clickers” the same way that SPDs are called “spuds”) .

Click’R pedals (the PD-T400′s were reviewed) are available in black or white from Shimano stockists worldwide and they retail for around $50. Click’R shoes (the SH-CT40′s were reviewed) are available in a range of smart styles from wherever you buy the pedals. They retail for around $100. Online info about the Click’R is a bit scarce though you can find your nearest dealer on www.shimano.com.au

There aren’t many regular cycling enthusiasts who, at some stage, haven’t coveted one of the well known Italian (or European) marques as part of their collection. A De Rosa has always been high on my list of dream bikes, but budget has always been an issue. Fortunately, decreasing manufacturing costs for carbon fibre and simply striving to be competitive means that they are becoming more affordable. So when I unpacked the De Rosa Merak, with Shimano’s Ultegra Di2 groupset, I was excited by more than just the opportunity to ride a new bike, I was excited to be riding one of my dreams.

Before I talk about how it rides, let me run down the specs of this Italian beauty. The Merak Evolution is equipped with offerings from Easton (bars, stem and wheelset), Prologo (seat) and Vittoria (tyres). Aside from the dark grey of the Ultegra Di2, everything else is either matt black (acres of it), white or red. There are a few items on the bike where you will notice the choices De Rosa have made to keep the retail price down. The first are the wire beaded Vittoria Rubino tyres – I have no problems with how they perform but they are at the lower end of the price range. The next is the chunky looking Easton stem – it doesn’t have any markings to indicate a tier within the group range, but the stem profile and lack of markings do not overly detract from the overall presentation. Finally, the wheels; there are two ways to look at the Easton EA70 wheels that come with the bike – either they’re a good training wheelset (not light at ~1,750g) or they’re wheels that can easily be sold and something better installed, saving some weight in the process.

The ‘Aero’ marked handlebars are alloy and, while they look suitable, for me they just don’t work. The flattened top section is awkwardly canted rearwards at ~10⁰ , forcing the wrists into an uncomfortable position when climbing, and the two bend ‘ergo’ drops are almost as bad. If it was my bike they’d be binned before the first ride, but that is personal preference. The Prologo Kappa saddle is a combination of matt/gloss black and small red highlights and is both comfortable and matches the bike in style and colour.

As far as the groupset goes, the superb Shimano Ultegra Di2 ensemble speaks for itself (I can hear the tifosi shuddering and muttering “Shimano on an Italian steed? Sacrilegio!”). My main gripe with the Ultegra Di2, the single downshift, can now easily be resolved with a quick trip to an obliging local bike shop for some firmware updates/reprogramming. The standard gearing on the Merak is a 53/39 crankset with 11-28 cassette – my preference is that a compact should be the norm or at least a low cost option. Initially a 12-25 cassette was supplied on the review bike though Cycling Express quickly followed up to provided a 11-28 cassette which better suits my hilly area. The bike tipped the scale at 8.1kg for the XL frameset, which is not bad given the Di2 is not a light groupset, and neither are the wheels. Curiously, this is the largest frame that De Rosa have available for the Merak, so anyone taller than my 184cm will struggle to get a good fit on this model range.

Aside from the bold yet understated graphics, the Merak’s frame stands out for one obvious reason – the huge trapezoidal shaped downtube with its very un-aerodynamic shape. This “feature” overshadows the rest of the tubing on this frame, which is almost equally beefy. It’s almost as if the Merak is saying “If you need an aerodynamic frame to ride fast, then this isn’t the bike for you”. That’s not to say that there aren’t pleasing lines; the way the top tube splits either side of the seatpost and melds into the seat stays, and the aesthetically prominent tyre cutout in the seat tube. I applaud the fact that the styling shows restraint, yet clarity. You know it’s a De Rosa, the decals say so, but the frame isn’t festooned with marketing acronyms that spoil the designer’s efforts. The large white painted dropouts initially seemed a bit much, but I grew to accustomed to them.

The Merak has several small, but very noticeable, clever design touches that seem only to come with higher end bikes. The mounting of the Di2 battery low on the downtube means that it’s out of the way, but is also easy to access. My only issue is that due to its position, it’s in the direct line of fire from debris hurled at it by the front tyre, especially on rainy day rides. As there is no real seal between the battery and the mount base, it should face the other way to prevent water ingress during wet rides that could cause shorting or corrosion of the contacts over time. A minor issue in the overall scheme, but something to be aware of.

The other neat touches were in the seatpost area. As the seatpost is an aero style that is mated with the frame tube profiles, it also requires a specific clamp – the two piece, two bolt clamp is designed such that the small plastic insert in the rear section minimises clamping damage and also grips on to the roughened section of the seat post to ensure no slippage. Clever design and neat integration, but also done with flair. My only gripe with the seatpost is that it may be a bit short for some. I had it at full extension and at 184cm tall, but without overly long legs, I felt that taller or longer legged people may have an issue.

The seatpost top is a two bolt style, but the nifty aspect of this is that one of the bolts (the front) is replaced by a thumbwheel allowing micro adjustment to the seat angle. My fat fingers found it a bit tight to get in there, but the ability to quickly and easily make fine adjustments was very welcome.

For my first adventure on the Merak Evolution, a friend and I set out on a 63km loop of the Adelaide Hills heading up Montacute Road, across to Ashton and then headed down Greenhill Rd for a fast descent back home. I was expecting a pretty harsh and solid ride given the size of the frame tubes and the wire bead Rubino tyres but, to my delight, the Merak had a solid road feel and, even on choppy suburban roads, the harshness was well muted. As we struck the steeper parts of the climb, the bike responded with every pedal stoke with no apparent loss of energy. Getting out of the saddle made that direct power transfer even more noticeable. The flowing smooth and slightly downhill road towards Ashton was where I started to notice the great stability and cornering talent of the bike. It felt like it knew where it was going, and mid corner bumps were ignored. I found myself forgetting about my ride partner and going for it. Then came the Greenhill Rd descent and the real fun began.

The descent is fast, flowing, bumpy and scenic…and fast. The thoughts racing through my mind as I powered from one corner to the next, hardly braking, was that “I wonder if this is how Cancellara felt when he was chasing his way back to the peloton on Stage 7 in the 2009 Tour?” I have never felt so secure going down this stretch of road at that speed. I wasn’t much faster than I had ever been, but the sensation of stability and the communication back through the bike was fantastic. Straight after the descent my ride partner commented, “That was a quick descent for your first ride on it!” My only reply was a huge grin. You might think that this confidence inspiring handling could lead a rider to overestimate their ability and cause a crash. I certainly overstepped my ability on a few occasions, but found that some more guidance on the bars or a gentle dab on the brakes had everything back under control, such was the capability of the frame to respond to altered inputs mid corner.

This feeling of stability and fine control was echoed on every other road that we headed down, regardless of the road surface. The many routes through the Adelaide Hills provided great opportunities to test the capabilities of the frame and supporting components, and it responded with aplomb. On the odd occasion where the speed overtook my ability, maximum braking at the front had the rear skipping, but still in full control, and able to make the corner safely.

In my short time with the bike (I received it just after Xmas), I’ve covered 1,500km over 24 rides and managed to climb in excess of 16,000m as I built up towards the Alpine Audax in late January. Whilst the climbing on the Merak was pretty good, it was the descending that made all of the hard work worthwhile. Its descending ability was enhanced when, mid way through the test, I put on a set of Michelin Optimum Pro 25C tyres. The frame has plenty of clearance for these large 25C tyres and they helped mute the solid response from the rear a little more.

When we do reviews at BNA we like to try and define who the bikes and cycling equipment would and wouldn’t suit. With the Merak, if you are tall then be conscious of the frame sizes available. When the size is right, the Merak is a very compatible ride; it’s not overly racy or overly harsh and it’s good on the eyes.

I covered all sort of riding – commuting, big mountains (Mt Buffalo & Falls Creek), small hills, beach rides and local loops over all types of road surfaces. Every ride was an absolute pleasure with the descents an absolute standout. I initially thought, due to the frame bulk, that this wouldn’t be a sportive type bike,perhaps more suited to the sprinter/power oriented rider. But as my journeys proved, this was not the case. Even with 23C tyres, this bike was very comfortable for 3+ hours in the saddle.

If I were to pinpint the standout feature it would be the handling. If the Merak represents the evolution of De Rosa’s road racing capabilities, I can seee why the professionals sought out De Rosa bikes to ride back in the 70’s. The Merak is the closest that I have come to not sending a review bike back and paying to keep it.

The Merak Evolution is offered with Ultegra Di2 for $4,349 or with SRAM Red for $4,399. If you have a keen eye and some good timing, you may pick it up even cheaper. So is this Italian thoroughbred for everyone? Despite the desire, some cyclists may just feel that such a bike is out of their budget’s reach, but I urge you to at least try and organise a test ride, even if it is to let you experience what I did, and what you are missing out on.

The De Rosa Merak Evolution with Shimano Ultegra Di2 was provided for review by Cycling Express who retail it for $4,349, with shipping $49 for metro areas and $99 for regional Australia.