Tyre pressure question...

[Dr.Nate]

Im new to cycling so excuse me if this has been asked and answered before....

Im running 25mm Schwable Durano Plus tyres on my road bike .... Im 71kg and was wondering what pressure should I use on te front and rear? Should the front and rear pressures be different ?

Thanks

Dr.Nate

[winstonw]

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure
http://www.bikequarterly.com/images/TireDrop.pdf

[rkelsen]

Experience has taught me this about tyre pressures: the lower, the better.

I'm much heavier than you (I'm 95kg) so I need slightly higher pressures to prevent pinch flats.

My road bike has 23mm tyres, and I run 90 psi in the front and 100 psi in the rear. If there is a difference in rolling resistance compared to running them at 120, I certainly can't feel it.

I don't see the need to go over 100 (despite what Sheldon Brown, Frank Berto or the tyre sidewalls say) unless you're racing.

[brendeng]

I asked the same question of some pretty experienced riders when I was just starting out.

The Advice I got was tyre pressure is a balance between speed and comfort. Always run them between the minimum and maximum recommended by the tyre manufacturer, the lower end of the range will be more comfortable and the higher end quicker (the theory being less rolling resistance).

I run 130psi front and rear. I have used Tubular Clinchers at 160psi.

[Sydguy]

Hey mate,

My tyres say 110 front and rear, I pump them up to 115 or 120.

When you unplug the pump a bit escapes, I also pump them at least every second day.

Did not get a chance to chat on Saturday, but I'll be on the ride again this week!

Cheers
JM

[ft_critical]

I run 130psi front and rear. I have used Tubular Clinchers at 160psi.

Tubular clinchers eh! I have been looking for those for ages but I can only seem to find either tubulars or clinchers. Where can I get me some of these funky tubular clinchers of which you speak then?

[brendeng]

Ummmmm ..... I stopped using the Tubular clinchers cause I couldn't get them any more. I really liked them.

I was lucky enough to met the guy who was the distributor for Tufo in Australia. He used to supply me direct. I ran them with the sealant inside, never got a puncher in 18 months, went through 3 set in this time, they were really fast.

I had them at 160psi on a set of really stiff TWE wheels, they were not all that comfortable at the pressure on those wheels, but there acceleration was great.

Wiggle does have some http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tufo/

[ft_critical]

Ummmmm ..... I stopped using the Tubular clinchers cause I couldn't get them any more. I really liked them.

I was lucky enough to met the guy who was the distributor for Tufo in Australia. He used to supply me direct. I ran them with the sealant inside, never got a puncher in 18 months, went through 3 set in this time, they were really fast.

I had them at 160psi on a set of really stiff TWE wheels, they were not all that comfortable at the pressure on those wheels, but there acceleration was great.

Wiggle does have some http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tufo/

Mmmm seem quite heavy. I might have a look for some when I am in UK.

[brendeng]

Mmmm seem quite heavy. I might have a look for some when I am in UK.

They are heavier than a standard clincher tyre for sure .... but you don't have to run an inner tube so you save some weight there and you take out the rim tape as well.
My current tyre set up is Schwalbe Ultremo ZX (195g), Conti Tube (65g) and Rim Tape (13g) ....Total: 546g
I used the Tufo C S33 Specials when I used them .... 335g each .............................Total: 670g

So 124 grams extra with the tufo's, whether that weight is detectable form seat of the pants feel I don't know

[sherlock]

Conti GP4000S (AT) 105 psi front and 110 psi rear. 85kgs, and I ride fairly hard. I back off about 5-10psi in the wet for extra traction.

[Nobody]

Experience has taught me this about tyre pressures: the lower, the better.

I'm much heavier than you (I'm 95kg) so I need slightly higher pressures to prevent pinch flats.

My road bike has 23mm tyres, and I run 90 psi in the front and 100 psi in the rear. If there is a difference in rolling resistance compared to running them at 120, I certainly can't feel it.

I don't see the need to go over 100 (despite what Sheldon Brown, Frank Berto or the tyre sidewalls say) unless you're racing.

Although Frank Berto's graph is a reasonable guide, I agree. I'm about 15Kg lighter and run 23s but I run a little more pressure (for weight) at 90 psi front, 95 rear. I've tried to run more at times, but experience shows I just get more bounce and more shock. On some paths I ride on, if I add just 5 psi to the front on the Rubino Pro, it goes from OK to mildly painful on the hands and wrists. Yet the sidewall says a minimum of 100 psi. I don't believe the lawyers are acting in the rider's best interests. As for roll, it doesn't seem to slow me down in the Commuter Cup. Twizzle did some power meter tests after dropping his pressures significantly and lost 0.5 Km/h average at same power. Also the link below is worth a read (for those who haven't seen it before). It's about weight but they try low pressure too.
http://www.training4cyclists.com/how-mu ... lpe-dhuez/

[rkelsen]

Although Frank Berto's graph is a reasonable guide, I agree. I'm about 15Kg lighter and run 23s but I run a little more pressure (for weight) at 90 psi front, 95 rear. I've tried to run more at times, but experience shows I just get more bounce and more shock.

Yeah, I found that I was busting spokes as well.

Also the link below is worth a read (for those who haven't seen it before). It's about weight but they try low pressure too.
http://www.training4cyclists.com/how-mu ... lpe-dhuez/

Obviously, you can go too low... 3 bar clearly isn't enough.

[invisable]

Hi I have read a lot of stuff saying that a lower psi wil give you less rolling resistance, I could not get my head around this so I went out and tryed this out, starting at the top of a hill and from a rolling start rolled down the hill and recorded my top speed, went back up to the top of the hill reduced the tyre presure from max PSI by 5 PSI, recorded a slower top speed ,done this a few more times lowering the PSI by 5 PSI a go, and each time a slower top speed was recorded, pumped my tyres back up to max and repeted and my max top speed was back to what I started out with. The speed diff was only very slight but there was a differance, thats just my findings anyway I always run my tyres at max

[Nobody]

Hi I have read a lot of stuff saying that a lower psi wil give you less rolling resistance, I could not get my head around this so I went out and tryed this out, starting at the top of a hill and from a rolling start rolled down the hill and recorded my top speed, went back up to the top of the hill reduced the tyre presure from max PSI by 5 PSI, recorded a slower top speed ,done this a few more times lowering the PSI by 5 PSI a go, and each time a slower top speed was recorded, pumped my tyres back up to max and repeted and my max top speed was back to what I started out with. The speed diff was only very slight but there was a differance, thats just my findings anyway I always run my tyres at max

Valid point. I believe that lower psi reduces rolling resistance only as the ground gets softer or rougher. In other words, it mainly applies to off road. If the tracks are hard enough you could run as high a pressure as you dare, but with MTB control and/or safety are also important factors and high pressure could contribute to bouncing off the track.
http://www.schwalbetires.com/tech_info/ ... resistance

The point of rkelsen's and my previous comments were that although we realize that lowering the pressure on the road is usually slightly slower. The greater comfort, braking ability, handling and component life are worth the small trade-off in speed. That's why there is the thought of there being an ideal tyre pressure for a particular terrain.

More on pressure vs rolling resistance for road. Make up your own mind.
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/What_s_i ... _1034.html
http://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/What_s_i ... __955.html
http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/c ... gium-25190
http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/tec ... eel-energy
http://www.analyticcycling.com/ForcesTires_Page.html

The below link appears to indicate that the tyre structure has a big influence on rolling resistance. Maybe more than a small variation in pressure.
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/rolling-resistance.html

More commentary on tyres from Rivendell:
http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/tire_tips
http://www.rivbike.com/article/componen ... tire_chart
http://www.rivbike.com/article/components/tires

[koen]

If we are comparing anecdotal results on pressures I have conducted tests over the years too and did numerous roll tests on the same day with different tyres and pressures on a modest hill and found absolutely no repeatable differences at reasonable pressures (that is, the tyres were not too flat) It was much easier to have a gust of wind or sit slightly differently and significantly change the results which puts tyres in perspective to the real friction enemies.
For this reason I have often used tubulars at quite low pressures because it feels nicer. I used to be 73kg and would run 90psi front and rear even in races and didn't feel disadvantaged over the young turks pinging along with 160psi in their tyres. I would also train on my mountain bike with 2inch racing tyres ...not kmart ones... There is noise and vibration discomfort at times on tarmac but I would stop pedalling in the training bunch of roadies and roll for just as long at the same speed. Rolling through a paceline at 50kph plus is a differnt matter when you hit the front though!! The windage is what kills.
My advice is it is not going to make much difference once you are confident for your weight and road conditions that you won't pinch flat. I also raced a tandem and we had a combined weight of bike and riders of around 160kg on 28mm tyres and I never have run more than 125psi and never got a pinch flat.

[Prawn]

Hey all, I have just ordered at set of HED Ardennes. The Ardennes will replace a set of Reynolds. The Reynolds are a 19mm width and the Ardennes run the C2 rim at 23mm. I have read a bit about the 23mm rims allowing you to ride at lower tyre pressures. On the Reynolds i ran 120psi. Considering i am 70kgs and will run a standard 23c tyre what advice can you all offer in determining appropriate tyre pressure?
cheers

[Nobody]

Hey all, I have just ordered at set of HED Ardennes. The Ardennes will replace a set of Reynolds. The Reynolds are a 19mm width and the Ardennes run the C2 rim at 23mm. I have read a bit about the 23mm rims allowing you to ride at lower tyre pressures. On the Reynolds i ran 120psi. Considering i am 70kgs and will run a standard 23c tyre what advice can you all offer in determining appropriate tyre pressure?
cheers

Maybe try about 80 to 90 psi to start with. A bit less on the front and see how you go. At those pressures a movement of 5 psi either way over the same terrain should be telling.

[sblack]

Hey all, I have just ordered at set of HED Ardennes. The Ardennes will replace a set of Reynolds. The Reynolds are a 19mm width and the Ardennes run the C2 rim at 23mm. I have read a bit about the 23mm rims allowing you to ride at lower tyre pressures. On the Reynolds i ran 120psi. Considering i am 70kgs and will run a standard 23c tyre what advice can you all offer in determining appropriate tyre pressure?
cheers

I was just coming into this thread to comment on the effect of rim width on appropriate tyre pressure. I have recently gone to Soul 3.0 wide wheels. While the external width is more than the Ardennes at 25mm I suspect the internal width which is what really matters is probably similar at around 19mm. I weight a few kilos more than you at 73 and after some experimentation have found the best pressures (with GP4000S 23mm tyres) to be 75 psi front and 90 psi rear. It's a little unnerving setting pressures so low after getting used to 23mm tyres needing around 100 front and 120 rear but once you're on the bike it feels great. Doesn't feel any slower on smooth roads, feels smoother on rough roads, don't notice any difference when climbing but more technical descents are fantastic, the handling gives me much more confidence. My comments are mostly based on feel as I'm not consistent enough in my riding to draw any real conclusions based on the data I have but I have recently done my quickest 200 and set my fastest times for several segments in strava with the new setup. The biggest improvement being descending Macquarie Pass where the improved confidence in the handling is really noticed.