Speedplay, longer axle option in stainless, buy the stainless steel wear shims to go under the cleats & buy the coffee covers. You might also want the extended base-plate option to move the cleats further back (depending on the shoe) : costs you some stack height though, but I run 6mm of spacers under the cleat on my left foot anyway. And you buy a complete CrMo pedal set every 18 months or so as your replacement pedal bodies and they come with 'free' cleats! Buy some LocTite "anti-tamper" (green) and use this on the cleat screws. I can send you a link for the appropriate grease gun if you buy these pedals.
Your fit guy is a numpty if he has a problem with the pedals. Yes, the company are a bunch of asses, but the product is reliable. Once you have dealt with all of the setup & maintenance issues, anway.
Note : The cleats will slip to the outside of the shoes (lateral adjustment slots) giving you some free Q factor (3mm?), I always set mine up to the ends of the slots so that I don't have to wait for it to happen on its own. You need to check that your shoes are compatible with the provided shims - or become handy with sand paper.
Pain point for you : I think they only sell the longer axles in pairs, so needing a 1/2" and a 1/4" longer pedal (if you go that path) might mean buying two sets of axles. I got mine from the U.K., up to ~ $135 a pair but they (at least) don't wear out. And I've bough three sets of the damned things.
I find that with my knee pain issue (both tibias twisted, right leg more so), I have to tuck my knees in to the top tube when climbing out of the saddle, which forces the heel out and needs a lot of float angle. Speedplay is awesome, I used to use CB egg beaters previously... nbowhere near as durable as the speedplay.
I ride, therefore I am. But don't ride into harm's way.
...real cyclists don't have squeaky chains...