It depends on the demographic.
A few hundred here or there. I'd be happy to get my Giant down to 7.0kg from its current 7.6kg.
I could probably shave weight with carbon bars and a new saddle, but those are going to be exxy. It does have carbon Ultegra pedals though. I won't give up Di2 however. Like that too much. already have fairly light wheels so I don't need to do anything there.
I'm already light myself at ~60kg so I can often beat quite a few people up hills. I can get quicker still if I really focus on trying to get my heart rate lower.
It's still fun to do bike upgrades - it makes the bike very personal.
What is often forgotten in the pursuit to save weight is the impact on handling. What good is a super light bike if it flexes (and handles) like a wet noodle?
I keep on thinking about the weight I could shed off my bike, but then I remember the 10 kilo goal I've set myself. Losing body weight is free and has other benefits.
Otherwise, if I had the money I would burn quite a bit on having a lightweight ride for bragging rights.
This is very true... But at the same time no one talks about how much better a lighter bike can handle (provided you haven't entered wet noodle territory).
Light bikes are a heap of fun to throw around. Particularly in the short and sharp twisters on a descent.
So the trick is light but stiff.
Start with a light but stiff frame..... mmm.. like a madone or a tarmac then select light parts that dont affect noodleisms..
light alloy stem or stiff carbon ( note there is about 5g between the Zipp scsl al and bontrager xxx. carb 110mm stems)
sram red group
Booteek brakes that dont work with zipps D'oh!!
dodgy ultra light chinese clinchers
tyres with no puncture protection
,....what have i missed
it seams to me if you get the right frame the only slop is in the bars and stem ..or am I missing something?
You can get a fair bit of "slop" in wheels.
Last night I found out my frame wasn't playing up... huge cracking noise everytime I hit a good sized bump. Thought it was slop in the bearing to frame interface like it was on an early frame. Turned out it is the Thomson stem and alloy bars slipping every so slightly causing a huge noise for the amount of movement. Going to go back to a heavier stem ... all my bikes get "down graded" weight wise ... carbon saddle rails, carbon stems, carbon bars, carbon seat posts ... Etc etc all get changed for alloy .
Why not just loose a kilo or two weight... If you are like me I can afford to loose a few.. I started at 108 now down to 98... thats the best way to drop grams... Lol
Sent from my Galaxy far far away....
Road Bike - 2013 Merida Ride Lite 93
MTB - Boardman Team Pro 2013
TLL, carbon paste is your friend however I have experienced what you're saying now with alloy stem and carbon bars...now I avoid humps and holes.
Agree on the wheel comment but what works for one .......
Andi, you are right of course but a few of us like to play games with our toys
Haha, I missed this...
It was a road cycling mag, they were talking about "real" bikes. :-p
You know, the ones that you buy that start off at around 8kgs Haha.
Sorry, just playing.
So I guess that might actually close to what rrp on some items suggest.
As for you two buggers (pawnii & flex) - I'm targeting sub 20mins up the 1/20 tomorrow. :-p
I haven't broken 20min since goodness it was that long ago, there was a "1" in front of the year on my calendar.
Sheesh, I'm getting old.
Oh the shame... big effort on my part, but only a fraction over 23 mins
I have no Idea what why either, I wasn't even feeling leg heavy.
Sub 20... who am I kidding...
Oh well Still a fun ride though and there's always next week
I might need pawnii's light weight brakes... haha
What I would like to see is a weight weenie build that is restricted to only aluminum and steel. I reckon 6.8 kg is possible. I wonder how expensive that would be though?
hmm that would be hard
Light weight oversized steel and aluminum would hardly be a noodle
that's the obvious and logical question to ask.....but people don't make gear choices based on logic.
fwiw, 2 consults with a dietitian would cost ~$160 net.....and the weight loss would be from above ride centre of gravity. so handling would improve better than with any other weight saving imho. plus, you'd clear fat from arteries and get more blood to muscles, thereby improving lactate threshold significantly. but, all this gets in the way of "the dream". most of my mates have bought new bikes in the last 2 years. mine is just over 3 years old now, and I am resisting new gear, and going to keep focusing on engine reconditioning!
There comes a point where weight negative on a bike is useless, unless you put in the hard miles sorry Ks. No that's wrong, a light bike will do diddly squat for you, unless you have potential and ability. Much better to have smooth running gear. Now get out and ride more to improve your fitness.
I don't suffer fools easily and so long as you have done your best,you should have no regrets.
If you are a wippet it might be fine... but it would have to be pretty light weight if your going to run alloy forks and standard wheels. Personally I wouldn't ride a super light weight alloy coke can ... maybe a CAAD10 though ... but I will keep the carbon fork.
On how much people spend ... I turned up to a stage race in June where everyone was running super lightweight clinchers etc ... I had a fat day .
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