Di2 on an Internal Cable Frame

Posts: 1192
Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2008 4:01 pm
Location: Bass Hill, NSW

Di2 on an Internal Cable Frame

Postby r2160 » Wed Jul 09, 2014 9:43 pm


I have a Colnago M10 frame with internal cabling.

If I was to fit Di2 to this frame, wondering how it works? Are there adaptors to seal against the electronic cabling? How does the battery mount?

Or is it not possible to fit an electronic groupset to this frame?

"Pain is temporary. It may last a minute, or an hour, or a day, or a year, but eventually it will subside and something else will take its place. If I quit, however, it lasts forever" Lance Armstrong

Posts: 1983
Joined: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:20 pm

Re: Di2 on an Internal Cable Frame

Postby Crawf » Thu Jul 10, 2014 11:24 am

For full internal the frame will generally need to have:
-The BB shell; a hole (3) from the BB shell into seat tube, down tube and right chain stay.
-The right chain stay will need an exit hole near the RD
-Top of the down tube will need an entry hole.

For the internal battery, no mount is really required, just wrap in foam and insert it into seat tube from the top.

User avatar
Posts: 6801
Joined: Tue May 21, 2013 8:21 pm
Location: On The Tools

Re: Di2 on an Internal Cable Frame

Postby Duck! » Sat Jul 12, 2014 5:32 pm

Depends on the shaping of the ports for the mechanical cables, you may be able to feed the upper Di2 cable through one of these. This will be easy if the ports do not step in to integrated stops for the upper outer cable, you'll just need a rubber grommet to fit to the Di2 cable to nicely plug the port around it. If it's an integrated cable stop, you can carefully drill out the base of the port big enough to fit the Di2 plug through.

You will need an exit hole just above the bottom bracket shell for the front derailleur wire. Depending on your frame's rear derailleur cabling or dropout configuration you may not need to make an exit port for the rear derailleur wire. If the back of the chainstay is open where the dropout assembly is joined, you may be able to utilise that as the exit for the wire. Alternatively, if the mechanical cable is fed internally to the rear and its exit port is stepped to form a stopper for the outer cable, you may need to drill it out in the same manner as the upper port. Bear in mind this will make it more difficult to go back to mechanical in future.

If you use an external battery, the original mounts that attach via the forward bottle mount are available, you'll need an additional hole in the top tube to feed the wire to the battery through.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users