11-28T vs 11-25T vs 11-23T For flat cadence driven riding

[Deus_Ex_Machina]

Hi All,
Mega noob here. So most of my riding is on relatively flat ground as I'm training primarily to do more triathlons. I currently run a 50/34 front and 11-28T rear and spend 99% of my time on the large front ring. I find I feel best at a cadence of 90-95 however often find myself wishing the gears about halfway up the rear cassette were closer together. When I hit a slight rise or headwind if I stay in gear I start slowing to low to mid 80's which starts too feel too "grindy" and drop a gear and up I shoot up to 100 which feels too "spinny".

I'm a long way from topping out the top end and don't need the low end so am wondering what might be a good option to tighten up the mid range?

Assuming the choices for what is currently a 105 setup would be the Ultegra cassettes?

[NASHIE]

Nothing noob mate,I would grab a 12-23 if 10 speed or a 12-25 if 11 speed. That should give you the best mid range set of gears. If you miss the 11 bump to a 51 or 52 up front. We often make up cassettes to get that sweet set of gears for different courses on road and cyclocross races. You just have to grind of the rivets, source the right gears and build to suit. Starting with a 12tooth small cassette helps close that midrange gap.

[Derny Driver]

Nothing noob mate,I would grab a 12-23 if 10 speed or a 12-25 if 11 speed. That should give you the best mid range set of gears. If you miss the 11 bump to a 51 or 52 up front. We often make up cassettes to get that sweet set of gears for different courses on road and cyclocross races. You just have to grind of the rivets, source the right gears and build to suit. Starting with a 12tooth small cassette helps close that midrange gap.

I agree with this. Start with a 12

[Deus_Ex_Machina]

OK cool, I'm 11 speed so 12-25 sounds like the go. Yeah I only use the 11 going down a slight decline at full tilt which is rare (and stupid as I'm likely to come off lol) and spend almost no time on the small chainring. There is a 12-25T 105 5800 too so even I should be able to just swap that straight over

[Derny Driver]

There is a 12-25T 105 5800 too so even I should be able to just swap that straight over

yep just swap it over.

[Mububban]

Just for interest, what bike do you have? 50-34 and 11-28 is often an endurance bike?

[AndrewCowley]

May sound extreme ... Ditch your 50-34 and get a 53-39 instead. Then you won’t be stuck on big + big all the time. You’ll actually be able to use the 39 unlike the 34.

I run a 50-39 front and 11-28 rear on my commute bike. Works well for mostly flat terrain. Used to run a 50-34 but got sick of being forced to grind on the 50 all the time.

[craigg]

May sound extreme ... Ditch your 50-34 and get a 53-39 instead. Then you won’t be stuck on big + big all the time. You’ll actually be able to use the 39 unlike the 34.

I run a 50-39 front and 11-28 rear on my commute bike. Works well for mostly flat terrain. Used to run a 50-34 but got sick of being forced to grind on the 50 all the time.

Changing the chainrings I think will also help, but to preserve your existing investment in 110BCD I'd recommend 52/36.

[Duck!]

Changing the chainrings I think will also help, but to preserve your existing investment in 110BCD I'd recommend 52/36.

Makes no difference, the 11-sp. cranks use the same spider for all ring combinations.