Chain length

open topic, for anything cycling related.

Chain length

Postby MountGower » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:11 pm

Anyone?
Last edited by MountGower on Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by BNA » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:32 pm

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Postby mikesbytes » Tue Apr 10, 2007 5:32 pm

Its quite common that when someone puts a new chain on, they just put the entire length on and end up with too much chain.

I'd say you just need to remove a link or two, but before you do it, check the length of the chain on the big ring and the largest rear sprocket.

One other thing to check, but less likely is the screw that moves the rear derailleur forwards and backwards could be out of adjustment. The screw is usually at the back of the derailleur and screws onto the frame just above the rear Axel.

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Postby heavymetal » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:23 pm

Another thing it could be, which i had a problem with, is the routing of the outer cable before it reaches the rear derailleur.

I had to move mine because of the BOB trailer mounting skewer and the weird rear rack mounting angle.

The end result was that the outer cable was stopping the rear derailleur from moving properly to allow the chain to clear the jockey wheel.

May be another thing worth checking.
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Postby MountGower » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:43 pm

Thanks
Last edited by MountGower on Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:51 pm

If you are using Campag 10 speed chain, then refitting of pins are not advised. They use a special link segment when you want to break and rejoin a chain.

For chain length, I would suggest that you consult two highly knowledgeable sources,

http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=26
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Postby MountGower » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:26 pm

[quote]
Last edited by MountGower on Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sogood » Tue Apr 10, 2007 8:53 pm

MountGower wrote:
If you are using Campag 10 speed chain, then refitting of pins are not advised. They use a special link segment when you want to break and rejoin a chain.
I will remove the chain using the provided removal link before shortening it , but I can't see how I am going to shorten a chain without removing the pins that hold the to-be-removed links together. This seems to work on a Shimano chain. Does anyone know what the difference could possibly be with a Campag chain. The way I see it is - no link removal, no shortening of the chain. The link simply must go, or the chain remains the same length?

If I remembered correctly, the link chain from Campag is 6 links long. So if you want to shorten the parent chain by one link, then you need to remove 7 links from the parent chain and then fit this link chain into it. Yes, it's weird and wasteful, but let's just hope there's some engineering reasons for doing it this way. Read all about it in their technical article on 10 speed chains (Ultra-Narrow 10s chains instruction sheet - 06/06),

http://www.campagnolo.com/techinfo.php?did=f
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Postby MJF » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:00 pm

Sounds like a good opportunity to fit a powerlink (assuming they are compatible). I'm pretty sure the 10-speed powerlinks aren't reusable, however.
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Postby MountGower » Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:48 pm

return.
Last edited by MountGower on Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby MountGower » Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:54 pm

The, .
Last edited by MountGower on Thu Mar 05, 2009 4:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby sogood » Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:21 pm

MountGower wrote:I popped out the second pin back and stuck the easy joiner through the newly vacant hole making the chain one link shorter. It is now perfect.

My main concern was whether I needed a specific chain tool for a campag chain. I would not use the pin again.

Congrats!

No, you don't need a specific Campag chain tool for the job but just make sure you stabilise the links/pins really well when you screw in the new pin. I have read many people have screwed up the job because they didn't hold the links down secure enough. I have one of those original Campag's chain tool, it stabilises the links very well but the cost benefit ratio is low. I wouldn't advise people buying it unless you hit a super bargain on the net.

As for rejoining of 10 speed (I assume that's what you have) Campag chains, as I already mentioned in an earlier post, the party line is that you can't just remove one link and rejoin. You need to use their "HD-Link" chain segment. I don't know the exact engineering reason for it but it's there in B&W. If you look at the HD-Link, it made sure that you always have brand new outer plates and pins at join points. So maybe the engineers have reliability concerns with the use of old outer plates with new pins. Take a look in the following Park Tools' link, lower part of the page.

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=25
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