Bike repairs...

open topic, for anything cycling related.

Postby gururug » Fri May 04, 2007 3:34 pm

NIce, you specifically request that they keep the parts and they throw your bottom bracket, scammers or slack at the least.

I guess th moral of the story is to do your research and if your not comfortable with a shop, don't use them.

But, at the end of the day, sometime down the track these parts would have needed replacing so its not a total waste.


Hopefully your beast is running smooth now?
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by BNA » Fri May 04, 2007 3:58 pm

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Shimano Part Prices

Postby rdp_au » Fri May 04, 2007 3:58 pm

Probikekit online parts has a new 105 crankset on special for £88.95 ($AU 216). Normally £119.98 ($AU 291).
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=M1225

Cecil Walker online has one listed at $AU $269.01 http://www.cecilwalker.com.au/category301_1.htm

Also on eBay, NEW SHIMANO 105 CRANKSET,175,CRANK SET, item 160112343227 has a buy it now price of $AU 60.62

Cheers,

David
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Postby Halfanewb » Fri May 04, 2007 4:08 pm

time to name and shame !
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Re: Shimano Part Prices

Postby wombatoutofhell » Fri May 04, 2007 4:43 pm

rdp_au wrote:Probikekit online parts has a new 105 crankset on special for £88.95 ($AU 216). Normally £119.98 ($AU 291).
http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=M1225

Cecil Walker online has one listed at $AU $269.01 http://www.cecilwalker.com.au/category301_1.htm

Also on eBay, NEW SHIMANO 105 CRANKSET,175,CRANK SET, item 160112343227 has a buy it now price of $AU 60.62

Cheers,

David

dont forget these are supply only prices where the bike shop in questions price seems to have included installation (i assume??)
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Postby bigmark100 » Fri May 04, 2007 5:05 pm

Okay - I think this is the crank ive got
at cecilwalker , the R700
I've not spotted any markings that indicate so - but it looks about right,

Price here is $325 ,
I called Clarence Street Cycles and they will see the part for $240.
I was charged $365 so Ive been charged a premuim - but not robbed.....

I was also charged labour - so this price is excuding labour.

to be honest the guys in the shop were really nice and friendly - and I feel bad naming and shaming. I however will not be going back to the shop.
Ive learnt an expensive lesson - namely learn to do the work myself,
and order spare parts from UK.

If anyone really wants to knwo the bike shop - Ill send you a pm.

thanks for all the advice.
I've learnt tons from this.
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Postby sogood » Fri May 04, 2007 6:39 pm

bigmark100 wrote:hi again,
ok - ive got my bike back, and still not really sure if Ive been ripped. total cost is $580. From what the mechanic showed me - there was wear with the threads within the crank...

Bad wear on the thread within the crank? After just 2000km? That's nuts unless there's really poor maintenance.

Weird!
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Postby Mulger bill » Sat May 05, 2007 10:59 pm

Bigmark, mate. I reckon they saw you coming, hence the nice friendliness. Just make sure they never see you coming again :wink:

I do most of my own wrenching, sometimes I even get it right :shock:
There's plenty of online and hardcopy literature available to get you started. Mikesbytes sig is packed with useful links.

BTW, with a name like bigmark, would a 170mm crank be the right length for you? Roadies, help me here please.
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Postby MountGower » Sun May 06, 2007 11:54 am

I
Last edited by MountGower on Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:52 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Postby bigmark100 » Mon May 07, 2007 12:25 pm

okay. Im going to change my tune here because now I am really disappointed.

Ive discovered now that the part they have replaced is actually the R600.
And its 175mm.
The invoice says 170mm and that its a R700. I have checked the cranks and it says 175 mm - and R600.

Ive got quotes on this part from
Clarence Street Cycles charges $240 for this part.
Bike Addiction in Manly - $200
Bike Factory - Pittwater rd - $250

I've been riding the bike on the weekend - and the gears are a mess.
Doesnt change properly, makes lots of noise.
simply a really bad job. After spending 579 in their shop I would have expected the gears would be working 100%.


Also , to add to this, - my girlfriends bike was there for a serice - which came to $200. She had them also fit a bike computer.
she had not even done 60kms - and the gears failed to change properly,
on taking it back to the shop - they agreed to fix it. but then wanted to charge her $30 for straightening the wheel....

The shop is the Bike Depot in Kent Street.
2 mins from Clarence Street Cycle shop , I went to the bike depot because they seemed slightly cheaper.
big mistake.
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Postby MichaelB » Mon May 07, 2007 12:56 pm

Time to get Consumer Affairs (or whatever they are called now) involved.

Go back to them, point out their discrepancies, and politely ask them to fix it making sure the Cc name is dropped if you are not satisfied.

Be polite and firm, you don't know what they might do if they get a chance.

Also make an issue of the fact that you specifically requested that they keep the parts, and since they did not, you want to discuss a refund (check with CC what your rights are here) based on the fact that the bike is worse after $580 worth of charge than when it went in.

Good luck.
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Postby twowheels » Mon May 07, 2007 1:59 pm

I've been wondering through this thread how old is your bike and how much does the current model or equivalent of your bike cost new?
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Postby gururug » Mon May 07, 2007 3:09 pm

NOT HAPPY JAN

Gather all harcopy information you have, fair trading will need records of what has been done / agreed upon.

It's sad but I just had a similar issue and if your request for them to keep the parts was verbal only, the fair trading will be pretty much powerless.

GET EVERYTHING IN WRITING!!!!! always when dealing with shops because if you get into issues down the track verbal agreements mean nothing.

I feel for you, stay calm and go through the motions, its not worth getting stressed about. Stress to your wallet is alot less detrimental in the long term to stress to the concionce.

Good Luck (thanks for shaming and naming, I won't be taking my business there).
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Postby bigmark100 » Mon May 07, 2007 5:53 pm

I've been back to the shop - and they said that the part appears to have dropped in price in the last few days. :?
Ive was given a refund of $120. :?
I was not made to argue - they agreed straight away - so Im glad for that.

I will be a lot more careful in future.
I almost didnt chase this up - Im glad I did.
Im still not satisfied with the whole thing - and my gears still need tuning.
but its better than nothing......
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Postby ShanDog » Mon May 07, 2007 7:24 pm

I've had problems with my bike not being tuned before after getting a service (although the service took 3 mths due to a major frame problem being fixed under warranty) but when I took the bike back they were able to retune it in about 5-10 minutes on the spot and the gears have been good ever since.

This was a different bike store, but I see no reason why this store won't be able to sort your bike out on the spot. After everything that happened I can understand why you wouldn't want to go back but they owe you after all this. It saves paying more money to get it retuned somewhere else.

One day I'm going to learn how to tune my own gears
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Postby MichaelB » Tue May 08, 2007 10:09 am

bigmark100 wrote:I've been back to the shop - and they said that the part appears to have dropped in price in the last few days. :?
Ive was given a refund of $120. :?
I was not made to argue - they agreed straight away - so Im glad for that.



Oh really !!! :roll: How coincidental. :!: I suppose they were just trying to ring you as well ..... :roll:

Oh well, live & learn, and find the right shop.
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Postby MJF » Tue May 08, 2007 12:10 pm

bigmark100 wrote:Im still not satisfied with the whole thing - and my gears still need tuning.


This is a great opportunity for you to learn DIY. Have a look at how the derailleur works, where the adjusters are, and it's pretty easy to get the alignment right. The trouble with getting a shop to do it is that they do it on the stand, and then it doesn't quite work on the road. My Shogun is a real b!tch to get right - the shop couldn't work out what the problem was. The combination of a tight chain and the need for perfect adjustment kept them amused on several occasions before (a) they started taking it for test rides and (b) I worked out how best to align it myself rather than visit them every few weeks.
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Postby europa » Tue May 08, 2007 12:28 pm

The cable part of the adjustment can be a real hit and miss thing and it often depends on loads you put on the bike when riding it. No, you shouldn't have load on the pedals when changing, but anyone who thinks that a bike hanging on the bike stand replicates the real world is fooling themselves. This is particularly true of the front derailleur where the chainrings can and do warp under load and sometimes, you need to move the derailleur cage over a touch to avoid scraping.

My Black Beast, when delivered new, had perfect shifting - the mechanic who did that set up has a very fine touch. Since then, it's been back for a service and twice to have bits fitted - each time it's been done by the shop 'mechanic' and each time, I've had to mess with the cable on the front derailleur to get it right. Now she shifts across all three chainrings quickly, easily and doesn't scrape on the normally used rings. Sometimes, you just have to have the bike on the road to fine tune it.

You can't adjust the amount the cage steps across between clicks.
The end stop adjustments (the max the cage will go one way or the other) don't shift and it's easy to see when they are out - the cable either flicks past the last cog or it doesn't get onto it.

In normal, day to day life (ie, not a major service, remove and readjust), all you need to worry about is the cable adjustment. The others, as explained, don't go walkabout.

On the rear, if the derailleur doesn't line up with its cog, you can pull it across by tightening or loosening the cable. On the front, you are looking for clean changes without flinging the chain off and without scraping the cage.

I adjust the cable with the adjusters on the downtube - a quarter turn is all you need to make a difference and you can do it while riding. Just make a change and see what happens - if you like it, you went the right way, if you don't, you went the wrong way (yes, you can also think it out but guess and observe works too). Keep turning the adjuster in the right direction until you are happy or have gone too far (in which case you go back a bit). No change should be major so don't go dialling in a full turn one way or the other, do it in stages.

It's all dreadfully easy ... but I have a long track record of fiddling :roll:
Have a go at sorting it out yourself. The worst thing that can happen is you'll wind up back at the shop having them sort it out ... which is the alternative to having a go yourself. You can't lose in other words.

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Postby tuco » Tue May 08, 2007 1:30 pm

I'm waiting until my next service is due before I get adventurous and try to adjust the gears. That way if I stuff it up the lbs can rectify it.

I've still got one more free service under warranty.
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Postby twowheels » Tue May 08, 2007 6:02 pm

Given a $500 quote to fix a 3 year old bike, I would have first considered how much the bike would have depreciated in the time and weighed up getting a new bike, strip the "old" bike for spares.
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Postby bigmark100 » Wed May 09, 2007 1:14 pm

True - but im very fond/attached to my bike - a kona - Jake the Snake,
its still in good condition.
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Postby bigmark100 » Wed May 09, 2007 2:36 pm

just another update.....

been back to the Bike Depot to ask them to look at the gears.
they said they are quite happy todo so. when i explained the problem,
it may be because i am using the gears incorrectly.....

They are very friendly there - and bottom line is I probably would still go back there because they a bit more personal than the other shop.
but i will be more wary of what Im charged and I will get everything in writing.
probably a good idea no matter what shop you go to.
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Postby ShanDog » Wed May 09, 2007 5:40 pm

bigmark100 wrote:I've been back to the shop - and they said that the part appears to have dropped in price in the last few days. :?


bigmark100 wrote:it may be because i am using the gears incorrectly


I'm kinda skeptical about this shop. I've picked up my bike from a different shop and the gears were crappy straight away and they said it was probably their fault, apologised straight away and fixed it on the spot. I think it's safe to say you'd be pretty competent with your gears after 18 months of riding.

Regardless of that, I always figured even if you're hopeless at gear changing, they should at least work straight out of the shop until you've had time to screw them again :P

I still get the impression that they tried to get away with some good old classic BS beforehand and you didn't notice right away so now they think they'll throw whatever they have at your BS meter....

It's definately good that they're fixing them though and that you're getting the personal touch. Just make sure you're careful if you go back and that they don't get to know you for the wrong reasons (such as emptying your wallet)
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