GraemeL wrote:My statement was a generalization. If it was an absolute fact I would have posted gob loads of crap to back it up. Which seems the norm these days, what ever happened to general conversation? Graeme
yeah i know what you mean - but on things like that i see it more as a "statement of fact", which is misleading - especially when it could lead someone astray & into purchasing an expensive camera they dont need etc.
I was thinking more about night shoots and how it could be improved......
The GoPro HD has various resolutions, 720 (AT) 30 fps and 720 (AT) 60 fps for instance and two metering modes Center Weighted and Spot, Now I usually just have the camera set to 720 (AT) 60fps and the metering is always Center Weighted. I wanted to try out the other resolutions mixed with the different metering modes.
The test was done shooting a street light, the time was approx 9:15pm
Well the metering modes made no difference at all. But the fps did make a difference, at 30fps the picture is a little lighter than it is at 60fps. I know it's not much, but it may be the difference between getting the shot and not getting it.
***Looking For Information About Bicycle Cameras ***
...They are OK for what they are, though I have found mine is less and less reliable and will not stay on for even a sub 1 hour commute anymore...
I think Nate dissected one and found they had the same internals as the 808 $10 key camera? If so, freshly formatted cards each session seem to increase reliability, and they also seem to cut out after hot restarts. They get warm while operating, and if you stop and restart recording on a long ride, they seem to cut out soon after the first restart. So, it seems best to make one large file, and then split it up later.
This could all just be a once off pattern in my key cam.
waynohh wrote:550's front and back. I'd much prefer the front mount to be on the left than the right so if it moves at least it's angled to the right. The rear camera gets turned off every time you try to fit it into the mount
Its a production capability thing, i can make mounts for "anywhere" really - but that would take a HEAP of time, effort & a decent amount of $... and i might only sell one of those style of mounts. So unfortunately it does dictate that you have your setup done around the camera mount.
As for turning off the camera - could be that the 550's stick out a little further, you can sand down the mount where its touching the button a little with no ill effect. Its the sides that are holding it in place. Alternatively you can use a larger bolt in the bottom of the camera - put the bolt through the mount, add a few nuts on it - then add the camera. That will make the camera sit a lot higher & ensure they dont interfere. Does that make sense?