Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Xplora wrote:Tom,

The warranty issue is the responsibility of the LBS you bought it from. If they have to strip and rebuild, that's their problem. This is why you bought a Bike, not a Frame, from them. It's fair enough that the frame will be the only replacement part, but the LBS is responsible for the Bike if it has failed in the warranty period, not the manufacturer or distributor. (this is precisely why our LBS's aren't cheap)

If you end up paying for a rebuild, I've got an old bridge near Circular Quay I will let you have cheap

Actually the warranty is the sole responsibility of the manufacture, the LBS' s role in this is as a distributor and manager of the process.

If you check out the fine print in the warranty cards you will find that all absolve themselves of any costs to tear down or rebuild the bike.

That being said most will absorb the labour costs.

JC, I don't think you'd be able to get a court to back the store/distro up. The bike is sold as a bike, not a frame, and if all the things that make it a bike and not just a frame are not there, they haven't repaired or replaced the frame, they just delivered a frame.

It would be the same as replacing a set of Zipp spokes, but not rebuilding the wheel. It's just not going to fly, regardless of the info in their "we don't have to do anything" card.

If the store sold you an itemised list of parts AKA
Honky Inc Frame 58cm
SHimano 105 drivetrain
Kona wheels
other stuff

then you would definitely be rebuilding it yourself.

Tom, you could do it EASY mate. Just need tools - you really can't do it without special tools.

Jcjordan that sort of "fine print" is why the Competition & Consumer Act provides a statutory warranty that is enforceable by the consumer against the seller for the product that is purchased

Thomas I am thinking BBQ at your place - we will bring the tools & the beer & you can do all the work while we sit around & tell you that you are doing it wrong

Shops often charge for labour in warranty claims, if they don't then they are doing you a favour, they are not claiming back labour from the manufacturer. A frame swap is only an hour or so work at the most after all.
Taking the frame home and building it yourself will certainly void any future warranty claims if your LBS wants to be a PITA, never stops me rebuilding my own though.
With crap looking welds like that you may be having more claims .

Xplora wrote:JC, I don't think you'd be able to get a court to back the store/distro up. The bike is sold as a bike, not a frame, and if all the things that make it a bike and not just a frame are not there, they haven't repaired or replaced the frame, they just delivered a frame.

It would be the same as replacing a set of Zipp spokes, but not rebuilding the wheel. It's just not going to fly, regardless of the info in their "we don't have to do anything" card.

If the store sold you an itemised list of parts AKA
Honky Inc Frame 58cm
SHimano 105 drivetrain
Kona wheels
other stuff

then you would definitely be rebuilding it yourself.

Tom, you could do it EASY mate. Just need tools - you really can't do it without special tools.

I use to work in arates bike shop and up until they became a trek dealer the manufacture never paid for the labor to strip or rebuild any warranty claim. The shop wore the cost.

Just been informed that Kona is totally our of replacement frames for a Honky Inc.

They trying to opt for a repair like it's stated in their warranty but I'm arguing that I'm hesitant to trust a re-weld onto a structural part. It looked like there may have been some rust/corrosion in that crack and it doesn't inspire safety/confidence.

I've suggested a replacement Kona Rove. Not holding my breath though.

T.

find_bruce wrote:Jcjordan that sort of "fine print" is why the Competition & Consumer Act provides a statutory warranty that is enforceable by the consumer against the seller for the product that is purchased

If I had a $1 for every time I have posted this in the last 12 months..... im thinking of creating a thread purely to explain the differences between statutory warranty and manufacturer warranty.

However, it should be noted that just because something is covered by manufacturer warranty doesnt mean its covered by statutory and vice versa.

im_no_pro wrote:

find_bruce wrote:Jcjordan that sort of "fine print" is why the Competition & Consumer Act provides a statutory warranty that is enforceable by the consumer against the seller for the product that is purchased

If I had a $1 for every time I have posted this in the last 12 months..... im thinking of creating a thread purely to explain the differences between statutory warranty and manufacturer warranty.

However, it should be noted that just because something is covered by manufacturer warranty doesnt mean its covered by statutory and vice versa.

Agreed.

It is amazing how mucheck people think is covered by statutory warranties.

Ok, good news:

Hi Thomas,

The bike engineer we use guarantee’s his work for life! Having said that I have since gone back to the factory and requested a 2014 Kona Rove frame in 56cm. They have approved my request for a small cost upgrade which I will cover here! The frame is due to be ready in April.

Now can anyone tell me if the 2010 Honky Inc parts: http://www.konaworld.co/bike.cfm?content=honkyinc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
will fit on a 2013/14 Rove frame: http://www.konaworld.com/bike.cfm?content=rove#2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It looks like they've gone Shimano >> SRAM.
Thanks,

T.

BB should be fine - one problem with oem fitments is you may not have all the spacers that I got in the box with my external bearing BB, which may or may not affect you on the new frame.

The headtube length and fork length are different, so I'd ask whether you are getting a frame or a frameset - depending on how lowyour current steerer was chopped it may not even work. If you had a big stack of spacers on it, then it should fit - you can decide whether the minor discrepency from Rove geometry bugs you or not.

The thing their spec doesn't tell me is what the gap between rear dropouts is, perhaps both are 135mm as they are disc hubs.

Well the replacement frame arrived today. A 2014 Kona Rove frame. (A nice steel blue in colour)

I am going to try the strip/replace on the weekend. Wish me luck! Never taken a fork or bottom bracket off before. Amy hints/tricks to it or should it be simple enough?

Oh never played with 105 brake handles before, but hoping I can just keep them on the handlebars and not have to do any of that....

T.

thomashouseman wrote:Well the replacement frame arrived today. A 2014 Kona Rove frame. (A nice steel blue in colour)

I am going to try the strip/replace on the weekend. Wish me luck! Never taken a fork or bottom bracket off before. Amy hints/tricks to it or should it be simple enough?

Oh never played with 105 brake handles before, but hoping I can just keep them on the handlebars and not have to do any of that....

T.

If the new frame came with a headset the fork will be an allen key to undo stem, undo starnut/expander and remove. If you need the old headset you might need to make a drift out of some copper pipe or something. You'll probably need the right BB tool unless you have a press fit BB, and undo the side you happen to be working on in the appropriate direction (often marked on external bearings at least).

zero wrote: If the new frame came with a headset the fork will be an allen key to undo stem, undo starnut/expander and remove. If you need the old headset you might need to make a drift out of some copper pipe or something. You'll probably need the right BB tool unless you have a press fit BB, and undo the side you happen to be working on in the appropriate direction (often marked on external bearings at least).

Hmm...

find_bruce wrote:
Thomas I am thinking BBQ at your place - we will bring the tools & the beer & you can do all the work while we sit around & tell you that you are doing it wrong

I think Thomas needs that BBQ now
I'm in - anyone else?

Nice...

Host a bbq
reason
star nut
headset
derailleurs

Got enough complication in there for you yet?

Ok, got it all stripped, now I need to purchase a: FSA ZST No.11AGY headset as it's a different size steerer hole on the old bike compared to the new.
Anyone know where in Aust. I can get this from or do I have to resort to overseas?
Oh and do I need any special fitting tools for this?
T.

thomashouseman wrote:Ok, got it all stripped, now I need to purchase a: FSA ZST No.11AGY headset as it's a different size steerer hole on the old bike compared to the new.
Anyone know where in Aust. I can get this from or do I have to resort to overseas?
Oh and do I need any special fitting tools for this?
T.

A plank and a hammer will do, but you can get a headset press if your the kind of person that cross threads everything or otherwise can't things to go in or on square.

Your bike shop should be able to order one in, unless they suffer from further "not sold by the distributorese". The two bikeshops I use regularly wouldn't blink if I asked them for one.

i believe you can make your own headset press with a steel thread and some washers and nuts - google's your friend. but your LBS would probably do that and the star nut - its a 30sec job

thomashouseman wrote:Ok, got it all stripped, now I need to purchase a: FSA ZST No.11AGY headset as it's a different size steerer hole on the old bike compared to the new.
Anyone know where in Aust. I can get this from or do I have to resort to overseas?
T.

Ok, Kona forums USA online just got back to me and said:

"A regular ZS44 headset is what you need. It will fit your 1 1/8" fork."

Is this the right part?

http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/5HH ... et---1-1-8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Thanks,

T.

Looks very likely, measure the ID of the bottom end of the headtube to be a little surer.

I recently got one of these for a new frame. http://www.this link is broken.au/cane-creek-40- ... h-headset/

As has been said, grab a set of vernier calipers (under $10 for plastic ones at supercheap) and measure the internal diameter of both top & bottom of the head tube. Should be 44mm each if it is a ZS.


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