open topic, for anything cycling related.
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Well worn out really, 16000+kms very happy. So it's been a while since I have considered wheels and although thoroughly satisfied with what I had would be interested to know what forumites suggest as replacements.
be the change in the world you want to see
I would not be happy with 16 000 out of a set of wheels.
Were these wheels just used for training? What quality roads? Do you want a new set for the same job / purpose?
Cannondale Supersix Evo
Fuji Norcom Straight
Fuji Track Elite
In former glory days of serious race training 16,000km's equated to less than eight months of use. Not exactly spectacular durability.
My Shimano RS80 C24's are up to about 15,000km's with hopefully at least another 5000 left in them. Not too flash on the durability front either but I ride less than half the annual distances I used to.
The RS80's have however been trouble free and still run true without any need for adjustment or maintenance.
How do wheels even wear out? I have SL's with 6,000km on them. Do they just fall to bits at some point?
The brake tracks wear out.
As I am discovering with modern wheels the braking surface seems to wear out well before worn bearings become a problem.
Stop leaning on the brakes in every perceived emergency ........ learn to dodge.
That's because modern rims have machined sidewalls that remove material from an area that gets the majority of wear.
What happens then? The brake pads wear the metal wheels away and holes start appearing in the rims?
That has always been the case with well maintained hubs, it is just that better-sealed hubs mean that people can ignore them for longer.
That is pretty much the case but bear in mind the the rim is part of the pressure vessel that keeps the tube contained. A hole developing in the rim can allow the tube to force it's way through which will get cut on a jagged edge. If the wear is more even, then you might find that a whole segment of the sidewall will come away at one time in explosive decompression. Obviously there is never a good time for this to happen. Sometimes the failure is slower and you can see the rim start to bulge outwards beforehand.
This thread prompted me to check the rim wear on my RS80's.
Sitting a steel ruler across the top of the brake track has (very pleasingly) revealed an almost imperceptible amount of concave wear to the braking surface.
At this rate I think another 15,000km's should be possible. These wheels have a wear indicator indent that is still at least 1mm deep.
I fitted Koolstop Black pads when the wheels were fairly new. It appears these pads really are "rim friendly" as the blurb stated, not just marketing hype.
I hardly ever ride these wheels in the rain which helps explain the low wear rate but it also confirms my high regard for the RS80's.
The hubs have been opened up once (cup and cones, not cartridge) and regreased at about 10,000km's but I don't really think it was necessary. The grease was clean and there was no bearing play in the hubs. The labyrinth seals are very effective.
Good wheels IMO.
Hope this helps.
"Died" and "worn out" could have many meanings here. Brake track can wear, and will wear very rapidly if regularly used in the rain/mud. It could also have worn bearings or freehub. Freehub can be easily replaced as well as all the cartridge bearings. I suspect at 16,000km, the OP just decided not to bother with these designed maintenance components.
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
Just do what my mate told me early on when racing MTB (back in the days of cantilevers) "stay off the brakes and nail the corners"
I wish ... When racing at 0C on the side of a hill in thick slop on 30mm wide tyres ... Even having your brakes on hard and the wheels locking up hardly slows you down! Lol
Not necessarily. Here's a thread I prepared earlier.
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