open topic, for anything cycling related.
22 posts • Page 1 of 1
I no longer have the spec sheet for my bike and hope someone can enlighten me as to the stock bottom bracket in my 2010 TCR Adv1.
Currently running stock 175mm 53/39 with 11/28 and I am considering the benefits of going for a compact set.
Just getting back to regular riding after recovering from broken ribs/ankle (hit by out of control skier).
Due to the injury to my ankle I can no longer run (don't want to either) so will be riding a lot more.
Mainly ride 25 to 50 klm trips 5 times a week averaging a sedate 27 to 32kmh. I am 192cm/95Kg with lots of leg power but at 56+ years the cadence
has started to slow. Most of my riding has been at altitudes above 1400m but now live in Canberra around 600m.
Your thoughts would be much appreciated.
Last edited by kunama on Sat Sep 21, 2013 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
http://www.bikepedia.com/QuickBike/Bike ... vanced+1+W
Edit: im on my phone so cant tell if its the right bike. Either way, bikepedia should be able to tell you what the bb is.
I think what I notice most is that a lot of the time I am needing that mid range and am dropping onto the 39 just for the steeper pinches but hardly ever using the 53/11 & 53/12 and perhaps the compact might mean I am using the big ring most of the time.
Thanks h909 and imnopro, that link was very helpful, it appears this is the 2009 frame but with 2010 componentry (2009 was SRam but late in the year they brought the same frame with the Ultegra 6700 componentry which included a Dura Ace BB. Cheers, Matt
'Sedate' ? I think I need to check my dictionary.
Here's my blog - A bit of fun
"Riding not racing...."
More often 27 than 32
I can smile about now but at the time it was I actually skied to the bottom afterwards and only realised the broken ankle when I went to take the ski boot off.
I thought I was just winded badly, turned out my rib had punctured my lung and deflated it partially. Six week later I was back skiing.
you shouldn't have to buy a new compact chainset. You can get a 50 tooth outer ring on a 130 BCD.
Fairly sure these will fit (other more experienced forumites can confirm this?)
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-130-pcd ... gs-505253/
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-130-pcd ... chainring/
Personal opinion of compact's, I can't really see why that is not the default choice, a full size chainset only provides one extra gear (how often does reaching this gear matter to you?). You also might get better chainline depending on your ideal gear on the roads your ride (but does that really matter?).
I don't think so... if that is OP's bike in pic it has a 7900 crankset, you would need a 7900 Compact crankset to run a 50T big ring.
Plus those chain 7800 rings would not look great on 7900 ... you would need a new bolt set as well.
Only the latest 9000 crankset can run either.
Plus whats the point?... you would need to fit a smaller inside chain ring as well otherwise you are only running 39/50.
I'm fat and old, picked up a new 2011 TCR Advanced 1 a couple of years ago, the shop fitted a compact for me before I picked it up. Now I'm a bit fitter I have thought about changing it up but each time I grind up a big hill I think no thanks. I run an 11-25 on the back. If I can just lose another 10kg...
Sorry kunama, certainly was never my intention to make light of your injuries. And punctured rib is certainly pretty bad, not to mention a broken ankle. Glad you're up and mobile again.
In all seriousness, is there a need for a compact crank riding in Canberra? A rear 28 cog will still get you up most hills with a 53/39 crank set.
https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/cy ... lications/
Good points thanks, the pictured cranks are Ultegra 6700 so perhaps the 6750 is the Compact version?
Thanks briztoon, I wasn't offended.
Canberra is not very hilly so I think the 28 will do, the advantage I considered in the 50 tooth is that I would be in it most of the time,
with very little need to change to the 39, as I am currently not really using 53/11 at all. (May be an indication of age creeping up and too much red wine)
Dungee, do you find you run out of gears on the flat/slight downhills. I find I just can't do the cadence I did in years past. Too much arthritis in the knees and ankles perhaps.
thanks all for the ideas, I think I will try and find a bike with compacts to test out before changing.
So let me understand - you want a compact chainset so you don't have to use the small chainring? What is wrong with using the small chainring?
Mashing around on the big chainring doesn't seem sensible for somebody recovering from a significant ankle injury. You really need to work on improving your cadence.
I'm older than you but still average 90 rpm cadence on flatish rides, so you can't pull age as an excuse.
Cycle touring blog and tour journals: whispering wheels...
The lower ratio you can get on a compact would be handy for someone with knee arthritis on grades > 5%. But
I've found the down side of a compact inner ring is that a change from outer to inner ring is much bigger and often you'll
need to make an RD change.
Couldn't help but notice, that frame looks pretty small for a 195 cm rider. You've got the seat quite high to get
that hip to pedal length rightish, and it looks like a longish head-stem has been fitted. But you've still got a pretty
aggressive drop from the seat height to the bars. At 56 years, and with arthritis evident in knees, would it pay to
think about the stress on an aging back ? Adding an inch or so of height to the stem (with an extender) might
be something your back will thank you for in 5 years time. If you want to be precise, try The Competitive Cyclist Fit Calculator and see what dimensions it recommends.
Somebody has to do something, and it's just incredibly pathetic that it has to be us -Jerry Garcia
Thanks Wombat, The frame is actually a Large size, the stem (which in the pic is down for my son's favoured position) I usually flip up for my own riding. It is a 120mm stem.
Fingers crossed, my back has not been an issue.
As for the Compact, I have never ridden with one and am more than happy to take onboard all advice. Looking at the gear calculators, the difference only works out to 1 gear either end or about 2.5 - 3.5kmh at my 85 cadence.
So most likely not worth the effort.
I run Campagnolo 10 speed with a 53/39 up front and a 12-30 cassette. The 39x30 (same as a 34x26) gets me up every hill and the 53x12 is only ever used on steep descents. The best thing is that the cruising gears I use, 53x19 & 53x17 are in the middle of the cassette so my chainline is straightish most of the time. Something that's important to me. Even when I encounter moderate rises, and change to the 53x24, there is still little cross chaining.
It's a 6700 crank. You can run older-style "flat" chainrings such as the 7800 on there, but they do look a bit manky, and you need new bolts too. 50-39 "semi-compact" was offered as an option primarily on 5600 105 cranks before Shimano fully adopted the full compact arrangement in the range. It's actually not a bad arrangement if you don't need the wall-climbers offered by a 34, preferring a nice juicy mid-range.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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