Bike Gallery

[Fleshpiston]

Gd'Day fellow bike lovers,

here's my 1st custom project completed...components consist of the following...

BMC streetfire SSX 2007 medium sized frame
Easton EC70 carbon fork
5600 series 105 groupset including wheelset
Dura Ace brake and shifter cables
FSA K Force carbon handlebars and setpost
FSA OS-99 80mm stem with 40mm FSA carbon spacers
Selle Italia SLR carbon saddle
BBB carbon bottle cage
Continental tyres and tubes...upgrading to GP4000 and ultra light 50 gram tubes very soon
Cateye cadence comp

entire groupset and wheelset will be upgraded to Dura Ace spec mid 2009

Cheers,
brad

[bowie]

600 on location chilling in the sun out the front of the Library..

+ 3 nerds point to me

[deks]

600 on location chilling in the sun out the front of the Library..

+ 3 nerds point to me

nothing wrong with chilling at library's and/or book stores, some of the hottest chicks i have seen have been in Dymocks in brissy city

[familyguy]

Commuter.


Roadie.


Steel steed.


Spare.

All bikes linked in sig.

Jim

[lukas]

Have previously posted a pic of my tarmac.. here's the R3..



Best thing about this bike... umm everything! It's light. Stiff. Climbs amazingly well. If you're looking for bikes in this price range, at least give it a test ride.. you're doing yourself an injustice not to.

[Thomas]

hey familyguy,

what sort of pedals are they on your Avanti and your more than competent looking 'spare'??

(they look like they are the same style)... are they some sort of clipless pedal?

Thomas.


oh and Brad,

your BMC looks awesome, killa frame. when you say custom project, what do you mean exactly? did u gather all the listed components seperately and then build it up yourself?

Thomas.

[Fleshpiston]

oh and Brad,

your BMC looks awesome, killa frame. when you say custom project, what do you mean exactly? did u gather all the listed components seperately and then build it up yourself?

Thomas.

yep, 1st bike that i 95% built up from individual parts...i didn't install the gear or brake cables...however...next one i'll do everything...the philosophy behind
the project from start to finish was to purchase quality parts that could be used again and again once the groupset needs replacing...its very light and a
new dura ace groupset and wheelset will only remove 800 grams from the current spec...i have another BMC frameset do nothing...imo its frame geometry
is more attractive with regards to the rear chainstays.

here's a pic of my other BMC frame http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2429/img0135ak8.jpg

kind regards,
brad

here's another angle almost from the riders perspective

[Thomas]

yeh your not wrong about the other frame, that also looks sick!

i understand the primary motivation for doing this would definately be the passion of it and have little to do with price but out of curiosity, does it work out cheaper to do it this way than if you were to buy a bike of equal quality and similar componentry??

thanks for the other pic too, cool view.

Thomas

[royalrodger]

Picked this up today, yet to be named, yet to have over 10 kms on the computer.

Scott Speedster S50 '09 model

IMG]http://i469.photobucket.com/albums/rr58/royalrodger/IMG_0245.jpg[/IMG]









Thoughts, feelings and opinions?

[Fleshpiston]

i understand the primary motivation for doing this would definately be the passion of it and have little to do with price but out of curiosity, does it work out cheaper to do it this way than if you were to buy a bike of equal quality and similar componentry??

thanks for the other pic too, cool view.

Thomas

Well thanks to ebay it was only $600 more expensive than a standard spec streetfire

cheers,
brad

[Shard]

My LHT bought last Saturday. It's my everything bike.

Commuter, shopping trolley, weekend rider, carrying showtime home from bunnings, going to the movies. The idea is to replace the car completely, except for when me and the gf have to go somewhere together.

Took it out for an 80k ride today, I have some fenders to put onto it tommorow and i'd have a Brooks but they were out of b-17 so I put an order for one. I had to cut my ride short because the Marybyrnong trail decided to turn into a gravel trail and then I couldn't climb a hill on my gatorskins and CBF walking it up there. Have to refit the Conti Contacts that came with it I think. So far the steel frame is awesome for commuting and the 25 front and 28 rear gatorskins with liners seem to be doing a good job. I'll give them a month and then decide whether to go back to the original contacts.

[Fleshpiston]

Best thing about this bike... umm everything! It's light. Stiff. Climbs amazingly well. If you're looking for bikes in this price range, at least give it a test ride.. you're doing yourself an injustice not to.

nice bike lukas...thanks to you i'm now dreaming about a S1 for my next bike...thanks for the temptation

cheeers,
brad

[lukas]

nice bike lukas...thanks to you i'm now dreaming about a S1 for my next bike...thanks for the temptation

cheeers,
brad

Haha.. don't mention it Brad!

The S1 looks nice. I'm looking forward to seeing it in the flesh, although it's pretty much a repainted soloist team.

Nice BMC too.. I have a major soft spot for those bikes.

[familyguy]

hey familyguy,

what sort of pedals are they on your Avanti and your more than competent looking 'spare'??

(they look like they are the same style)... are they some sort of clipless pedal?

Thomas.

Thomas

They're Ritchey double-sided SPD pedals. Older style, forerunner of the current V4's. One red (NOS ebay, seen about 20km), one black (been on various bikes for quite a number of years now and still going well).

They're good for what I use, but now and then they can feel a little small underfoot as they are quite a narrow cage. I believe they're early generation MTB pedals, but I commute with them.

Jim

[plasmapuff]

My first road bike Second hand and with a few drive chain upgrades later wallah!

Full 105 kit with CF front fork and rear stays. Standard beginner level WH540 wheels and Look delta pedals. Should be good enough for me for a few years to come hopefully. After riding a Huffy for 7 years (I know what you're thinking...how did it last this long?), and a retro 80's steel racer for a year...this feels amazing.

[Aushiker]

G'ay

Nice plasmapuff, very nice.

Andrew

[tallywhacker]

I think you need to replace the chain with one a little longer

[plasmapuff]

I think you need to replace the chain with one a little longer

Hmmm...what makes you say that? It was my first go following the Park tools site instructions.

It seems to shift great at the moment and when the LBS was adjusting the FD they didn't say anything...?

@Andrew: Thanks mate and for all your and the members of the BNA forum for helping me put it all together. For a student on a budget, the >$300 I was quoted for the drive chain parts was a bit too much considering the whole bike was only ~$500! With the sage advice of forumnites, a ribbles order and a lot of trial and error- its all worked out in the end .

[Aushiker]

I think you need to replace the chain with one a little longer

Hmmm...what makes you say that? It was my first go following the Park tools site instructions.

I suspect Tallywhacker is referring to the angle of the rear derailleur. I have to go take a class so can't find some resources for you but will try and look later if not beaten to it.

Andrew

[Aushiker]

I think you need to replace the chain with one a little longer

Hmmm...what makes you say that? It was my first go following the Park tools site instructions.

I suspect Tallywhacker is referring to the angle of the rear derailleur. I have to go take a class so can't find some resources for you but will try and look later if not beaten to it.

Andrew

This is not what I was thinking of, but it may give you an idea of how the rear derailleur should look.

Andrew

[tallywhacker]

haven't ridden a geared bike for several years but from memory and what I see around (even pictures earlier in this post) show this as the "normal" derailleur position. I would assume that with it in the position you currently have it in there will be greater wear on the jockey wheels, cassette and chain also greater stress on the mechanism itself as it is already nearly fully extended.

[plasmapuff]

Thanks guys...I'll take this thread into another topic for a "where to from here".



Damn...and I thought all the tinkering was over...

[Aushiker]

Thanks guys...I'll take this thread into another topic for a "where to from here".

Take a look at the Park Tools website and the Bicycle Tutor for advice on chain length.

Andrew

[sittingbison]

just have a look at the pics on this page of thread...basically they are vertical or lean backwards.

This could be because the gearing is big chainring/big cluster cog, which is not the gear of choice. I usually use gearing such that the big half of the cluster is on the smaller chainring, and the smaller half of the cluster is on the big chainring ie 17-23/39 and 11-15/53 to avoid stretching the chain and derailleur.

If you look at shard's Surly the same thing has happened, and that is on the same gear as well.

[plasmapuff]

This could be because the gearing is big chainring/big cluster cog, which is not the gear of choice. I usually use gearing such that the big half of the cluster is on the smaller chainring, and the smaller half of the cluster is on the big chainring ie 17-23/39 and 11-15/53 to avoid stretching the chain and derailleur.

Whoops I didn't know this... I was using big chain ring with large cluster pretty consistently on the flats on the 100 km ride on Sunday.
So in that case whats a good combo to use on the flats? Say if you wanted to maintain 30km at high cadence? (I was using the big-big previously)