Mounting B&M Bush & Muller Lumotec IQ Cyo on a Surly LHT

[Aushiker]

Hi

Working through the process of mounting my Bush & Muller Lumotec IQ Cyo Senso Plus to the Surly LHT and of course it ain't going to be simple task, so here I am seeking opinions/ideas.

I have taken two photos to show the issue and one possible temporarily fix.





and my temporary fix is ...



I am thinking of getting one of these brackets from SJS Cycles but if anyone has a better idea or can tell me if my plan is silly I am all ears.



I will probably switch over to v-brakes but even then suspect better clearance will be ideal and hence the bracket will still get used.

Thanks
Andrew

[Baalzamon]

I had a similar issue with my canti's and my Supernova E3 in that my brakes stopped my light being mounted. I ended up getting a longer bolt and packing it with washers till it went past my cantilevers and attached the supernova past that. Since upgrading my brakes to Avid Ultimates which has a different stance I only require a few washers as the Supernova E3 will jam up my steering if it is mounted hard against the frame.

[il padrone]

I am thinking of getting one of these brackets from SJS Cycles but if anyone has a better idea or can tell me if my plan is silly I am all ears.



I will probably switch over to v-brakes but even then suspect better clearance will be ideal and hence the bracket will still get used.

That bracket is what you need. It should work fine with V-brakes as well (it did on my Giant Sedona for many years), although there is the chance it may snag abit where the cable crosses it.

[Aushiker]

Thanks to phone a friend, a call to Baalzamon give me an idea worth trying and it works, well at least as a temporary fix. Will give a go whilst I wait for the bracket to come.



Andrew

[Wingnut]

I just put mine in a vice & bent it lower, careful not to damage it & works fine now...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk...

[Aushiker]

A couple of photos from this evenings photo shoot at Herdsman Lake.







I went for a test run this evening. Very impressed by the whole setup and the functioning of this light. I can see two more bikes getting the treatment now

Andrew

[Baalzamon]

I went for a test run this evening. Very impressed by the whole setup and the functioning of this light. I can see two more bikes getting the treatment now

Andrew

Hooked hey

[il padrone]

Running on a dynohub or sidewall dynamo?

[Aushiker]

Running on a dynohub or sidewall dynamo?

Dynohub ... SON 28.



Andrew

[Baalzamon]

btw that is the new son28

[Aushiker]

btw that is the new son28

Yep

Andrew

[il padrone]

If you are still looking for a bracket for your B&M iQ Cyo, St John Street Cycles do this one

[Aushiker]

If you are still looking for a bracket for your B&M iQ Cyo, St John Street Cycles do this one

Nice and tidy for sure, but the price!

Andrew

[il padrone]

Yeah, pretty expensive. You're probably just as well to stick with your improvised one - almost the same. But one thing to strengthen it could be to get a section of tubing to go over the bolt you use, compressed between the washer and another washer at the nut on the fork crown.

[Aushiker]

Yeah, pretty expensive. You're probably just as well to stick with your improvised one - almost the same. But one thing to strengthen it could be to get a section of tubing to go over the bolt you use, compressed between the washer and another washer at the nut on the fork crown.

Good idea. Ideas on tubing?

Andrew

[Baalzamon]

Yeah, pretty expensive. You're probably just as well to stick with your improvised one - almost the same. But one thing to strengthen it could be to get a section of tubing to go over the bolt you use, compressed between the washer and another washer at the nut on the fork crown.

Good idea. Ideas on tubing?

Andrew

The spacers you get with the Tubus racks? Got any of them spare. Whatever your solution I would end up putting heat shrink over it to tidy it up as well.

[Aushiker]

The spacers you get with the Tubus racks? Got any of them spare. Whatever your solution I would end up putting heat shrink over it to tidy it up as well.

Can't remember if I have any of those, but whilst in Bunnings I did look at using straight connectors for poly tube. They might do the trick. Just need to check the length requirements.

Andrew

[rifraf]

Hi Andrew,
great to see you've now "proper" lighting
Good on you for stepping away from the "dark side".
Hey with regards having your headlight in that position, what was the reason you didnt lengthen your brake
straddle cable and shorten your brake cable to lift it up without having to use the extended bolt to
mount it.
I'm not saying it was possible but curious as to why?
Cheers
Aidan

[il padrone]

Hey with regards having your headlight in that position, what was the reason you didnt lengthen your brake
straddle cable and shorten your brake cable to lift it up without having to use the extended bolt to
mount it.

Not sure of Andrew's reasons, but beware - such a change to cantilever brake straddle cables will reduce the brake's effectiveness. You will need to pull more cable to actuate the brakes. It is one of the traps involved in setting up cantilevers, and the reason that V-brakes are more fool-proof for less mechanically-aware cyclists.

[Aushiker]

Not sure of Andrew's reasons, but beware - such a change to cantilever brake straddle cables will reduce the brake's effectiveness. You will need to pull more cable to actuate the brakes. It is one of the traps involved in setting up cantilevers, and the reason that V-brakes are more fool-proof for less mechanically-aware cyclists.

That was one of the reasons I didn't gone down this path plus I didn't have a longer cable plus I will be going over to v-brakes so the approach taken was an easier immediate solution, at least in the short term.

Andrew

[rifraf]

Not sure of Andrew's reasons, but beware - such a change to cantilever brake straddle cables will reduce the brake's effectiveness. You will need to pull more cable to actuate the brakes. It is one of the traps involved in setting up cantilevers, and the reason that V-brakes are more fool-proof for less mechanically-aware cyclists.

Thanks IP!
So just to clarify, a longer straddle cable usually has a negative impact on brake effectiveness
The shorter the straddle cable, generally, the more effective .
I like my XTR V-brakes and find them generally easy to set up to be an effective unit.
So much better than the ineffectual factory tektro units my bike came with.
I do currently have an issue with them, being, the rear not releasing well.
I can track the dragging cable to a guide just south of my Moulton frame joiner link.
It doesn't appear squashed or damaged in any way but as soon as I utilise the guide my brakes need
me to physically tweak the cable south of said guide and joiner to correctly release and not rub.
I've lubed, I've replaced cables (I use stainless XTR), I've used the brakes tightest spring tension via the set of three
spring mount holes by the brake bosses (bosses greased)
Theres no apparent visual clue.
I've made the cable loop between frame sections (my bike being dual suspension), main and rear, longer in case the cable was too tight.
All to no avail. The other day I stripped it down yet again to make sure it wasn't something I'd missed the first dozen times.
The brakes pull way superior to the original and if the choice is going back to factory or tweaking/pull, lift and release a cable, I'll stick to the tweak and release as I now actually like my stopping power rather then dreading it.
Cheers
Aidan

[rifraf]

That was one of the reasons I didn't gone down this path plus I didn't have a longer cable plus I will be going over to v-brakes so the approach taken was an easier immediate solution, at least in the short term.

Andrew

Hi Andrew,
I noticed you had a couple of inches excess of straddle cable as well as some excess on your brake cable (main)
so it got me wondering when you used the long bolt to mount with.
I was unaware that it would change the effectiveness of the front brake.
Cheers
Aidan

[il padrone]

So just to clarify, a longer straddle cable usually has a negative impact on brake effectiveness
The shorter the straddle cable, generally, the more effective .

Not the complete story. The longer the straddle cable, the longer the cable pull but the greater the leverage. Short straddle cable has much less cable pull needed, but lower leverage (ie. harder to pull on the brake). I believe the ideal is a cable set up pretty much like Aushiker's, with the straddle cable, cantilever arms and pivot points forming a rough pentagon shape when viewed from in front/behind.

Shimano used an indicator on the connector for their modified straddle cable.

[rifraf]

Much better informed - thanks heaps!!! IP