All about touring, whether you are a local or visiting from overseas.
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
I actually road the Albany to Donnybrook section of the Munda Biddi Trail in July 2013 but have just got around to writing it all up ... if you are bored or seeking information on the Trail this post may be helpful ...
Great write up Aushiker
Nice info - thanks..
Repayment Rough 'Bush Mechanics'..
Replacement brake fluid... = water + dish washing detergent .. water = hydraulics, detergent = lube for seals + pistons. It will boil at lower temperatures .. so let them cool. When replacing with good oil - flush with methylated spirits to remove the water. (In your situation - maybe transfer what is left of the good oil from the rear brake to the front, then fill the rear with water + detergent? Messy but?)
Replacement grease = oil + soap.
Brake pads .. little to offer here .. leather from gloves? I carry 3 pairs of pads (yes BB7s) .. they will ware very quickly in mud!!!
Straighten disks... never had to do that .. did you try holding part of the disk with the brake - and than bending the bit next to the brake with a 'hammer' (hard rock from trail side)? May be a 'soft hammer' would be better (large wooden stick). Don't hit too hard or you'll damage the brake.. other ideas?
Adjustable wrench best option, even a small one
Whilst BB7's are good, as Warin says, they'll wear pads quickly in mushy stuff. Mechanical brake's pads don't "float" as hydraulic ones do. That is, the rear pad is stationary and the front pad moves, whereas a good hydraulic break activates both pads, allowing them to 'float' back off the disc when relaxed. Your brake woes were more likely a result of a cheaper product than of hydraulics per sae.
I've run good quality hydraulic brakes and BB7's. I prefer the modulation of the hydraulics over the mechanical but the simple nature of the mechanicals of the BB7's is an advantage. In regards to hydraulics in remote areas, one is better off running a unit that uses DOT fluid as opposed to mineral oil as DOT fluid is available from most servo's or can be siphoned out of someone’s car as a last resort as they only require minimal amounts. Running DOT fluid in mineral oil brakes is NOT a good idea, the seals will go mushy at a rapid rate.... There is one caveat with that statement, one may be able to run DOT 5 in the Shimano's as it's silicon based.
Here's an artical you may find interesting;
Here's some more homework;
http://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/blog/ ... akes-work/
As for bent rotors, a 'bent' rotor is very hard to straighten, however, a 'warped' rotor can simply be trued by giving it a good reef with ones hand or foot, show it no mercy...... Lay the bike on it's side and use your weight.....
That photo at the top with the Brooks pointing sky ward. How can that be comfortable?
The handle bars look like they are somewhere from 30 - 40mm below the seat height, so you must be leaning forward a little.
On another topic.
I am just wondering what is the advantage of the extrawheel trailer, over just using a rear rack.
You don't seem to be carrying too much gear to warrant it.
Avid BB7s on the bike now and doing fine so far. Good enough for my usage and easy to maintain on the trail when touring which is what I do with the bike. I am sure good hydraulics are good but I don't need them or want them on this bike. Simple is better
Thanks for the input.
Very comfortable ... Brooks need to point up ...
Guess I am .. honestly hadn't thought about it till you mentioned it. Never bothers me riding this bike but then my body sizing puts me on a slightly bigger frame than the "calculators" suggest so maybe that has something to do with.
Cannot fit a rear rack to this bike, well not without the hassle of finding something that can be fitted without rack mounting points. As I have the Extrawheel for other duties, it gets used for the longer rides on this bike.
I didn't realize the extrawheel had so many loyal followers on the BNA forum. I just came across the extrawheel thread over on the Equipment page.
Originally I was wondering why you didn't just use a Bob trailer to carry all your gear, then I just saw the answer on page 1 of the other thread.
When I saw the photo above of the crash, my memory instantly reminded me of a journal I read, when I was researching a route a few years ago.
http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page ... 07910&v=7I
The photo down the bottom of the page had me shaking my head, thinking what was the point of that trailer. It was the first time I had heard of them, and so the irony of the rack carrying the trailer has always stayed in my mind.
I'm not passing judgement, as I have never used one, but was just curious. I am actually trying to get the motivation to finish a project that involves building a box to sit on a Carry Freedom flat bed that I have got, with the box having surfboard racks on the top lid.
I am sure that will have people shaking their head as well.
The reason I asked is I am still tring to dial in a B17 standard after 2000km, and even a slight tilt up doesn't agree with me. I have constantly read on forums that they should be tilted up, but after so much trial and error, I realize that there are so many other factors of the bikes set up that need to be considered.
Funny thing, after posting that message, I got a spare B17 Aged out of a storage box. I bought the two of them when the dollar was at it's highest over the euro, along with 10 years worth of spare parts.
The Aged seat doesn't have such a pronounced kick up along the back half to the ridge with the rivets. Less than half the height gain, if you get what I mean.
So I put the Aged on the bike today and am going to see if there is a lot of difference in comfort levels.
My brooks b17 are perfectly level, but everyone has their own personal preference.
Masi Speciale CX 2008 - Brooks B17 special saddle, Garmin Edge 810
Without a doubt and for some they just don't work.
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