Advice on SA/NT/WA detour

[bohwaz]

Hi,

I'm planning to do some bush cycling around Australia beginning in june, for around 9 months, with my partner. The idea is to get from Adelaide to Albany with a large detour. We plan to have to carry up to 10 kg of food and 3 days of water (25 liters), using front and rear panniers, and bags strapped on the front and rear racks.

We will have HEMA maps (bought in 2012) on our phones and tablet (used as offline GPS), I think that will be enough, as we will have a solar charger too.

Our planned itinerary:




I'm expecting we will do around 70 kms a day on average, and will be having 1 day off every 5 days (not counting the planned rests, yes we aim at being lazy, we are not in a rush). At the end we will have done a bit less than 10,000 k's and toured for around 7 months. And after that we would like to take the Indian Pacific back to Adelaide and head to Tasmania, VIC and NSW for more cycling and bushwalking in the summer before heading to New Zealand. If everything goes according to this plan, we will avoid most of the heat and will be able to cycle the Kimberley before the wet season.

Most of the itinerary has already been experienced by cyclists, and we got a lot of useful information out of GJ Coop website and blogs, and we think we will be able to handle most of that. And well if we can't make it through the first half of the Mawson Trail we will know we are not up to the more remote tracks and we will think of something else, like just riding on paved roads or going to Tasmania.

But there are two things we worry about. First one is the crocs on the Gibb River Rd. Yes I read that people already crossed the Pentecost River with their bike, but still we find it worrying, probably because friends and families are talking a lot about it Do you think that's a good idea to wait for a 4WD to cross before or after them?

Second one is the itinerary from Tom Price to Mt Augustus. At first I thought it would be best to go to Newman, stopping a few days in Karijini to see the gorges, then go around Collier Range and take the dirt road that goes through Minah Springs and Woodlands. But I can't find a lot of information about this road, and it's a pretty long road.

The other option is through Paraburdoo, Ashburton Downs and Dooley Downs, and I could find a bit more information about the road which seem to be a bit more popular among 4WD drivers: http://www.exploroz.com/TrekNotes/Pilba ... ustus.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But it's still 412 k's from Paraburdoo to Mt Augustus, at least 5 days of riding, and I can't find information about reliable water points along the way, so I'm a bit worried about that. I can't seem to find information (not even a phone number) about the Ashburton Downs station, but maybe they might help, this would reduce the water needs to a 274 ks section, that's more manageable.

Anyone cycled around there? Any advice to give on our planned trip?

(Oh and btw a great thank you to anyone who posted on this forum, it was of great help about the questions we had while planning!)

[Aushiker]

The other option is through Paraburdoo, Ashburton Downs and Dooley Downs, and I could find a bit more information about the road which seem to be a bit more popular among 4WD drivers: http://www.exploroz.com/TrekNotes/Pilba ... ustus.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

But it's still 412 k's from Paraburdoo to Mt Augustus, at least 5 days of riding, and I can't find information about reliable water points along the way, so I'm a bit worried about that. I can't seem to find information (not even a phone number) about the Ashburton Downs station, but maybe they might help, this would reduce the water needs to a 274 ks section, that's more manageable.

This was my planned route before things went wrong at Adelaide River. Anyway as I understand there is station accomodation at Ashburton Downs station so would assume water is available. When I rode out to Mt Augustus the route you are planning was "popular" ... i.e., you might see a vehicle a day.

Dooley Downs is no more so I wouldn't rely on that. You may find water in a Billabong when you turn on to the road that is the final leg through to Mt Augustus.

There is no free drinkable water at Mt Augustus Caravan park. You need to buy it. Cobra Station has really sweet underground water.

Andrew

[bohwaz]

Hi Andrew,

Thanks for your help, and for your website that was also really useful, as long as the notes on the Larapinta Trail

According to http://www.exploroz.com/Places/98559/WA ... l_Inn.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; "The Cobra Bangemall Inn no longer offers services to the public (as at 2 August 2014)".

As for the Mt Augustus resort I kinda hoped that I would be able to refill in water if I'd pay for a camp site?!

[Aushiker]

According to http://www.exploroz.com/Places/98559/WA ... l_Inn.aspx" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; "The Cobra Bangemall Inn no longer offers services to the public (as at 2 August 2014)".

That is really disappointing. They where really nice and friendly there and the water was good. YOu might still be able to fill up with water anyway from the tap out the front of the homestead.

As for the Mt Augustus resort I kinda hoped that I would be able to refill in water if I'd pay for a camp site?!

The bore water is pretty horrible at the "resort" hence drinkable water comes in a bottle.

Andrew

[Warin]

Cobra ... change of ownership? The 'Inn' was closed down ..umm 90? .. then new owners .. opened .. now?

Anyway .. email/phone Mt Augustas and ask for advice .. locals will know. Particularly if a track is open .. or being used for mustering, or even if road trains are on it.

Ashburton Downs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ashburton_Downs" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

White pages is your friend for phone numbers
http://www.whitepages.com.au/searchBus. ... &location=" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Paraburdoo Rd, Paraburdoo WA 6754 (08) 9189 8161

But I'd contact Mt Augustus Station - they have a bigger slice of the tourist trade out there. They have a restaurant (licensed) and as well as showers have a washing machine. Luxury.

------------------------
The Pentecost River .. I'd wait for a 4WD to go before me.. you'll be walking across .. rocks the size of which will move under your weight.. If you cannot wait then through rocks around where you'll be walking .. large rocks .. you'll need to stop and do that as you cross .. it is a long crossing. Best to wait for the 4WD.

[bohwaz]

@Andrew: oh right, didn't think about that. I'll check with Cobra station.

I also sent an email to Mt Augustus, thanks.

[il padrone]

A little matter - you will find the Stuart Hwy traffic at Marla a BIG culture shock after riding the Mawson Trail and the Oodnadatta Track for the previous 3+ weeks. My mate did when he got there, camped overnight then decided the bus to Alice was the safer and more appealing option. A week of camping by the highway with roaring road-trains and endless 'grey-nomad' motorhomes was less than appealing.

Also, while out on the Mawson at Blinman it would be a real shame to go right on by and miss Arkaroola.







The ride out there is 2 1/2 to 3 days there and 2 days to get out to Copley, with a rest day/sightseeing at Arkaroola, (6 days in total) but the Reserve and resort is really worth visiting, and the ride to and fro is very good as an intro to the outback deserts.

[bohwaz]

For a european the Australian highways seem incredibly lonely and car-free But yes at first we where thinking about taking the Finke Road, but it seemed a bit too hard for us, and then we would have to mail some food probably.

We also thought about taking The Ghan from Marla to Alice, but they can't take bicycles as there is no platform.

Good idea about Arkaroola, we wanted to go the last time, but were worried about our 2WD so yup that's a thing to do My only worry in keeping adding more stuff to do is having to cross the Pilbara when it's too hot.

I got a (really short) answer from Mt Augustus but it seems they don't know anything about the track to Paraburdoo, they don't seem to know if there is anything in Ashburton Downs either. Not really helpful for a "tourist resort". I'll call Ashburton Downs or the Ashburton Shire next week.

[J Quinton]

Hi,

Sounds like quite a trip.

Wouldn't worry about crossing the Pentecost until you get there. You have a lot of country to cover and I'm sure many other mishaps that'll make crossing the river seem like a dawdle.

Having said that, when I crossed, I waited for a 4WD and tried to cross with them. They were meant to follow, but when I got to the other side they were still taking photos on the other bank. Drivers will tell you if there are crocs about I guess. If you are that worried I'm sure someone will drive you across.

[bohwaz]

Thanks for the advice, we'll follow that, and after a few months of touring we'll probably have a different idea of the situation as well

Another thing, as we're leaving in a month is that we planned to bring our backpacking gas stove and an adapter to use the 220g butane canisters, just like this:



The idea was that this kind of canister just seemed to be available in just any store in Australia, and are lighter and cheaper than the backpacking screw-on cartridges (which seemed hard to find in Australia too).

But recently the cookers designed for those canisters were banned Australia wide, and I recently read about butane canisters being no longer sold in NT and WA. So the idea of using 220g butane canisters doesn't seem that good anymore...

We also own a Trangia stove, but thought that it would be harder to find methylated spirits than butane canisters. But now... I don't know.

So the questions is: will it be easier to find gas (220g canister or backpacking screw-on cartridge, whatever) or methylated spirits along the way? I'd prefer gas but I'm not sure if that would be the right choice.

[RonK]

So the questions is: will it be easier to find gas (220g canister or backpacking screw-on cartridge, whatever) or methylated spirits along the way? I'd prefer gas but I'm not sure if that would be the right choice.

If in any doubt take both.

[Aushiker]

So the questions is: will it be easier to find gas (220g canister or backpacking screw-on cartridge, whatever) or methylated spirits along the way? I'd prefer gas but I'm not sure if that would be the right choice.

I would be very surprised if you cannot easily find meths. Every IGA I have walked into has sold it ... In fact for my longer tours it is my choice of fuel for this reason.

Andrew

[BenGr]

I believe in NT and possibly some other areas you'll have to ask staff for meths, but otherwise it should be easily attainable. The main annoyance I found was having to buy 1L at a time. Not too bad if you're using it every day but a pita if you only use it occasionally.

[RonK]

I believe in NT and possibly some other areas you'll have to ask staff for meths, but otherwise it should be easily attainable.

Yes, and it's also dyed purple - all to discourage human consumption.

[Aushiker]

I believe in NT and possibly some other areas you'll have to ask staff for meths, but otherwise it should be easily attainable.

Not sure that still applies with the change of government and change in liquor supply laws. When I was last there that was the case as with buying beer etc but that law has been revoked now. Either way it was not a big issue with getting the meths anyway. Just have ID.

Andrew

[bohwaz]

Ok so everyone thinks it's easier to find meths. Now it means I have to seriously consider taking the Trangia

[GJ_Coop]

Just finished walking the length of the South Island, plus 16 Days on Stewart Island, so have been out of action for my 100 days of walking.

Here's some thoughts on your questions.

Pentecost River: no big deal, by the time you go through it will be mid calf deep. There is so much traffic through there, like 100+ cars a day, crocs tend to avoid the area. Mind you just down the river, maybe 5km away, I spotted a 5m log in the river as I drank my early morning coffee, just swishing its tail a bit. Crocs are generally timid unless you get right in their zone.

Mt Augustus: Mirjam, cycling dutch girl, went across there, I'd suggest it's not too much of an issue either. You could contact her, except she is currently biking the Dempster Highway in Canada, ie, in early spring. http://cyclingdutchgirl.com/2015/04/24/ ... -delights/ (Now that's a great blog, funny, with the best photos. Who would bike in Canada in January?) The roads in the Gascoyne were some of the best to ride on I came across, solid, mostly smooth, no traffic.

Timing: One thing to be wary of is the late spring thunderstorms in the Outback and up north. By November, most afternoons, there's plenty of electricity in the air and thousands of lightning strikes every afternoon, mostly after 2pm. Mostly it's dry but wow, don't get hit out there. There is no shelter usually. They tend to pass relatively quickly, except when they don't.

Purnululu: The sights are very close together. It's easy to do Echidna and Mini Palms from Kurrajong and zip around to the other campsite, Walardi and walk to Cathedral Gorge, The Domes and Piccanini Gorge on a biggish day. Two or three days is enough. Karajini is also tiny when you get there.

Oh, that's all brought back some memories. Need another travelling companion?

gj

[bohwaz]

Thanks! I'm waiting for the blog of the TA, hopefully on tramping.net.nz?

Good idea to contact Mirjam, I'm also a fan, and read every one of her posts until now. The part in Iceland was just great.

I didn't think about the thunderstorms, thanks for the advice, we'll be careful not to get fried. But hopefully, according to my very serious (no way) calculations we should be in Mt Augustus in early november and in Kalbarri by the end of the month, so we should avoid the worst of it (and the worst of the heat I hope).

We already went to Karijini, so we know a bit how it is, yeah, but it's always good to have a few days rest between all this pedalling

Oh, that's all brought back some memories. Need another travelling companion?

If you happen to be around we'll be delighted to ride a bit with you! But if not, we also plan to come to New Zealand after Australia, not for cycling (too much rain for me) but for tramping (I have to admit we just seem to be following your websites!), and it might also be great to meet you there. I also hope to meet Sebastien one day, he was also of great help when trying to plan this journey.

Thanks again for the cycletrailsaustralia website, it's just awesome!

[Aushiker]

Just finished walking the length of the South Island, plus 16 Days on Stewart Island, so have been out of action for my 100 days of walking.

Thanks for mentioning Stewart Island. That has been on my bucket list for what seems forever

Andrew

[bohwaz]

Me too

I made the final choices for tools and spares for the 2 bikes. Tools for repairs and maintenance:
(tire levers, actually only 2 not 3, gloves, pump, pliers with bits holder, some screwdriver bits, chain breaker with spoke wrench, small adjustable wrench, set of allen keys 1.5 to 8 mm, Brooks wrench, cone wrench, cassette remover, crank arm puller, bottom bracket tool, pedal wrench with DIY chain whip and spare chain links)



And spare parts:
(oil, patch glue, patches, grease, screws and bolts and stuff, 4 spare tubes, front axle, rear axle, axle balls, spokes of each size, duct tape, v-brake blocks (they seem to wear very fast, one set lasts only two weeks with me), zip ties, spare brake cables, spare derailleur cable, chain master links, spare tire)



All of this mess fits in a pouch, except the spare tire:



I'm a (volunteer) bike mechanic, so I usually see and repair broken bikes every week, and I kinda know that everything can break on a bike. Axle, hub, freehub, frame, seat post, fork, pedal, crank, bottom bracket... This is quite common to see any of them broken. But usually it's spokes, tires, bent rims, broken hub axles (very common on the rear, I broke mine 2 times last year). And flats. Lots of flats. So yeah I tried to stay reasonable on what to bring, but still it's 3.8 kg of stuff, so 1.9 kg each, and it still seems a lot. But if I were to listen to my fears I would bring a complete spare bike with me

We also decided to bring the gas stove, as we find it better and easier to use, and faster to boil water. If we can't find gas cartridges anymore after some time we'll just build an alcohol cat stove or ask the family to ship us the trangia.

[Thoglette]

Timing: One thing to be wary of is the late spring thunderstorms in the Outback and up north. By November, most afternoons, there's plenty of electricity in the air and thousands of lightning strikes every afternoon, mostly after 2pm. Mostly it's dry but wow, don't get hit out there. There is no shelter usually. They tend to pass relatively quickly, except when they don't.

Plus several. I've been in&out of an industrial construction site in the territory last two "wets". There were days that the nearby ground lightning strikes meant we got less than two hours outside work done. And that's ignoring the rain - like most places with "monsoon" unsealed dirt roads become mud pits very quickly.

Be aware that there's also some lovely tropical diseases up there too, like melioidosis. Like everywhere else, mosquitos& bats, are to be avoided. Teaching you to suck eggs, I'm sure

[Boombibit]

Just to say that plastic tire levers may be a wrong choise. My expiriense is they tend to get soft after a few uses, and in hot weather they can turn out to be totaly useless. But mayby plastik tire levers are better now days....or I have been unlucky.

[bohwaz]

@Thoglette: yes I'm aware of those diseases, and try to stay safe, although it's not always easy to avoid getting bit when hundreds of mosquitoes are attacking you

@Boombibit: yeah most cheap tire levers are s***, and they will break or become too soft. But professional ones like those ones from Schwalbe (I also used some from Conti and Michelin) are usually great and last a long time. So hopefully I'll be ok. In last resort I can use the spare quick release lever that have an integrated tire lever. It's funny I never noticed that kind of stuff until snapping those pictures and seeing "Tire Lever" written on the QR lever.

[bohwaz]

Just one detail on the bikes, maybe it will be useful as an idea for someone else. This is our hand-made rear rack made of steel:



Cost was around $20. Soldered by a skilled friend. Other pics here: https://cycleterror.wordpress.com/2015/ ... te-bagage/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;