What spray paint should I use?

[zues]

Here's some pics of my recently stripped Claud Butler frame, which was in bad nick. As you can see it was originally a blue-green. There is some remaining rust which I plan to treat with rust converter and primer.
I was wondering if a spray can of dulux gloss enamel would be OK? If not could someone recommend a more appropriate brand for steel frames
Thanks
[img][IMG]http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv48/hjs_09/035.jpg[/img][img]

[hartleymartin]

It depends on how good of a job you want to do with it. Probably best to use some sort of etch primer first, however at the last trip I made to bunnings I found that you can buy self-priming paints made specifically for metals. I've wondered if the spray paint intended for motor engine blocks would be any good. It's supposed to be very durable, and a nice gloss black.

[zues]

Thanks Hartley but I intend to paint it roughly the same light blue-green colour.
I dont know about engine block paint but I suppose it does a good job of disguising oil grime

[steveoc]

Get an airbrush - $100 sets u up. and the world is yours from there.

There is no end to what you can achieve with an airbrush - they rock.

http://www.arcair.com/Gal10/9301-9400/gal9359-F-15-Ozen/00.shtm

http://www.arcair.com/Gal10/9301-9400/gal9368-Hellcat-Doherty/00.shtm

http://www.arcair.com/Gal10/9301-9400/gal9386-P-38-Rapasi/00.shtm

[elk]

I'd steer clear of rattle can paint . It can provide a fair finish but the colours are limited as is the durability .
Two pack is good but expensive and highly toxic . Acrylic can be good but a lot of work and experience required to get it right . I like automotive enamel best .

If you want a great finish and don't have a lot of experience , consider paying to have it done .

[elk]

Many large paint shops have an automotive section . I've found that if you shop around you can find one with knowledgeable sales staff who will be more than happy to help out a novice . One example is ''Paintright'' but they have many stores and I can't vouch for all of them . One thing they will have is colour charts for most car makers , some going back to early 60's and 70's models including metalics .

BTW , I'm no pro . Just offering suggestions after painting many frames with varying degrees of success . As for the enamel paint I think most brands would be similar and I just take what the paint bloke gives me .

[zues]

Thanks Elk, "I suppose practice makes perfect".
I will try out the engine enamel.

[Lark2004]

be aware that many of the engine enamels need the heat from the engine running to fully cure them. Unless you are planning on baking your frame after painting, then engine enamel might not be your best option.

[zues]

S******T I just went out and bought a can.
Thanks any way- I try it out on some scrap 1st.

[Lark2004]

I said many.... not all.

Read the instructions on the side of the can that you bought and see what it says. You may be lucky....

[zues]

Requires normal running temp for curing-back to the store.

[Cranky Jim]

zues,

you are going to prime coat that frame before you think about applying any colour coats. You don't need an etch primer for steel (but you do for aluminium). What you need is a 'high build' primer that will fill any minor imperfections (like wire brush scores) let it dry and wet sand to a smooth surface that will give the colour coat something to hang on to. Wash it down, let it dry and wipe it over with a tack cloth ...THEN apply your colour coat.

Dulux enamels are perfectly fine for a bike frame - just give them plenty of time to cure (enamels dry to a hard durable finish but they are slow drying). But then so are just about any of the automotive enamels. As Lark says, I'd be inclined to leave engine enamels alone though.

Most folks will apply several clear coats over the colour coat to ensure durability. But let the colour coat dry before you do.

You can get all this stuff - primer, colour coat, clear coat, wet and dry sandpaper and tack cloths - at your auto spares store. Super Cheap for example. By the time you add it all up you get pretty close to the cost of a powder coating which is definitely an option too.

The key to a reasonable DIY paint job is patient preparation and patient application. Take your time. And let it dry.

PS: Don't forget to mask off that bottom bracket. You don't want paint in the threads.
PPS : Don't use your fingers to judge whether it is dry. Use your nose. If you can smell it, it's not dry.

[elk]

Zues ,

I think I may have accidently mislead you . When I mentioned automotive enamel , I didn't mean engine enamel . They are very different .

I agree with Cranky on most points . If you use any enamel , it needs to be done in a dust free enviroment even more so than other paints due to it's long drying time .

I disagree with going to supercheap . They stock all the chemicals but from what I've seen don't have any brains to provide you with good advice . They're on my blacklist but that's another story .

[Mulger bill]

Wasn't you mentioning engine paint Elk. 'Twas Martin having a bit of a conjecture. If he re reads this thread he's just had his mind changed.

I'm painting mine with Supercheap rattlers. Nothing fancy, but many coats and much drying time. I want protection and durability before looks.

Oh yeah. The best way to mask the BB threads is to use an old one.

Shaun

[zues]

Thanks all for the good advice.
I went back to the automotive store and exchanged the engine enamel for automotive enamel.
I did ask the shop assistant what the difference was between the two products -he just mentioned engine enamel is heat resistant thats all. I though beauty shouldnt fade in the sun.
Funny thing is I have used engine enamel on engines before, in the distant past, so I should have known better-The things we forget

[Lark2004]

The best way to mask the BB threads is to use an old one.

Shaun

+1

Also the Headtube and any bottle cage holes, just stick some old screws in the bidon holes, and partialy fit an old pair of headset cups.

Masking tape inside the seat tube, unless you have an old spare crappy seat post that fits.... I actually use an old 1-1/8" quill stem (from an old shogun MTB) in the seat tube, nipped up just enough to hold it in place (No need to distort the tube from tightening the bejebers out of it), then hang the frame from that to paint it.

[Mulger bill]

Old quill stem in the seattube Brilliant! Next project...

Thanks for the extra tip Andrew. Always learn something here.

Shaun

[Lark2004]

hang on a minute, I'll take a pic and post it up....

edit, here we are.....

[hartleymartin]

I saw the engine enamel and figured that it must be pretty durable stuff - the sort of paint I would use on a beater bicycle. I didn't know that some needed normal engine running temps to fully cure. Live and learn...

[spirito]

A cheap way to speed up the backyard paint curing process is by leaving it in the car on a hot day. Tricky part is it's better left for a few hours before doing this. Between now a the end of February is prime time for oven baking your frame in the car.



P.s. the car will stink of paint for a few days

[elk]

A mate of mine used the domestic oven to cure paint on motorcycle parts . His marriage suffered for quite some time . Later on he sprayed the whole bike in his minute workshop with no ventilation and was crook for several days . He's quickly losing the few brain cells he had . Live and learn . Or maybe not .

[zues]

I finally finished applying top coat to my frame-I used 1 250ml can-is that about right
I preheated the can in hot water just below 100c and managed to bulge out the bottom of the spray can but luckily it didnt blow .
I used automotive enamel which cleans up in turps. I have a couple cans of acrylic top coat clear and would like to know if I could use it over the automotive enamel
Thanks
Henry

[oldschoolfool]

Only way to be 100% sure is a test on a piece of scrap.