Seeking tips for buying an old road bike.

[ecru]

I am getting back into cycling after a 20 year absence. After researching new prices, I don't really want to spend that much yet if I don't stick with it. Currently I have an old steel bike (made up out of 2 bikes from the Tip Shop, and one from Vinnies) which is a little small for me. Having a heavy bike and more rolling resistance means I can go on shorter rides and/or take more breaks right?

Competitive Cyclist suggests a frame size of 60cm top tube cc, 64cm seat tube cc.. Currently I have 58cm and 55.5 respectively. I guess the options are to change the saddle tube (length) and quill stem (length and height), or look for a larger frame.

I am just after something cheap and reliable, not the lightest and fastest. Are there any brands / types to avoid due to fatigue etc? Similarly any brands / models recommended (preferably able to use the old shimano gear, since I now have 3 bikes worth of spares)? The Repco Appreciation Society thread with ranking of the models was interesting (I had a Traveller back in the day).

I realize I will look even less 'pro', but would a 150mm mountain bike quill fit a road bike (the 'rising' angle to give me the extra height)?

Thanks

[drubie]

Avoid road king / road master. do not pass go, do not strain your shoulder trying to pick one up, just shove them out of the way.

Avoid anything with stem shifters or suicide brake lever extensions (usually indicates a piece of junk).

If you find a bike complete, the quickest indicator of something decent is alloy rims and downtube shifters or shimano RSX type brifters.

I'd crawl over 1000 Repco travellers to get to one Repco Superlite, GT, Ricardo* anything or Shogun anything (common tip shop bikes).

Be opportunistic - amongst the 4 million ladies Travellers and gas pipe '80s mountain bikes is the occasional gem, including alloy MTB's that are worth fixing.

*(some of the later Ricardo CrMo frames are absolute rubbish, as are the later Raleigh 10 speeds)

[toff]

My experience with the Competitive Cyclist fit program is that it overstates the frame size. I ride smaller frame than the program says. I would suggest trying to get a frame which is the smallest fit of the 3 fits given. This is usually the Competitive Fit.

Heavier bikes don't have any more noticeable rolling resistance. They are harder to accelerate and slow down, because of greater inertia, but this inertia also keeps them going longer once up to speed. If you want to cut down on rolling resistance, pump your tyres up more, or get fatter tyres. Be aware that this will either decrease ride comfort, or increase wind resistance though.

There is no reason why a heavy bike can't be used for long rides. I did 100km yesderday on my heavy Columbus Thron bike with low-end heavy components. Before carbon fibre, people rode on nothing but steel bikes in racing and training and commuting etc. You get fitter faster on a heavy bike.

I wouldn't worry about issues of fatigue with steel bikes. Steel does fatigue, but ironically, it is usually the high-end steel racing bikes that suffer fatigue failures, because they used less material trying to make the frames lighter.

Oh.. and unless you are using an old French bike, a mountain bike stem will fit your headset/steerer perfectly.

[lethoso]

Oh.. and unless you are using an old French bike, a mountain bike stem will fit your headset/steerer perfectly.

check the clamp size though, mtb is usually 25.4mm?

- try to buy a 7 speed if you're after something old but not too old. I don't think there were any cheap and junky 7 speed groupsets made either.
- rear seat stays are often a giveaway for frame quality - if the tube is just tapered and bent then brazed/welded to the seat tube, it's usually rubbish. Better quality frames usually have a flat or concave face at the tips.
- try get something with double walled alloy rims

[Lark2004]

Be opportunistic - amongst the 4 million ladies Travellers and gas pipe '80s mountain bikes is the occasional gem, including alloy MTB's that are worth fixing.

+1

This is one such example... while it isn't retro, it does show what pops up from time to time.....


Bottom line, be patient, be early (the saturday flea market sellers will be waiting an hour before the shop opens on friday (my local tip shop is open fri-sat-sun 8:00am til 1:00pm) to try and get anything of any value that they think they can make a profit off) and and eventually you'll find the perfect project...

[hartleymartin]

French bicycles have a 22mm internal steerer diameter, but ISO standard steerers are 22.2mm - quite a simple matter to use sand paper to get that last 0.2mm diameter off and fitting.

[ecru]

Thanks for the pointers.

I have performed some butchery and lengthened the saddle post, and lengthened and raised the headstem. Feels much better, though it is only a short term solution. I'll be keeping my eyes open for larger bike.