The Eagle has landed ........

Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking

Postby MichaelB » Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:37 pm

europa wrote:
If you mean the Dura Ace set that they were advertising as 'fixed' for some reason, I nearly went for that and would have while the price was still reasonable.

One trick is to put your last bid in at 30 sec to go. A sniping program hits in the last few seconds and if they don't out bid you (which would get you anyway), you're in front because you got in earlier. The other trick I use is to bid odd amounts - most people would put in a max of say $50, whereas I put in $51.50 which just edges them out for no real cost to you.

Sniping programs - yes, I know they exist but they take all the fun out of it and the 'hunt' is part of the game for me :wink:

Richard


Yep, them Doora ace ones. Never even saw the purple ones ..

I too put ion odd amounts, but wasn't able to access on the weekends.

Looking at a pair of Sachs ones atm, but not sure. There is another pair of Dura ace ones with a BB as well, so will keep an eye on those.
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by BNA » Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:31 pm

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Postby MichaelB » Tue Sep 11, 2007 5:31 pm

Well, the cranks are now sorted, and some Sachs 175mm with chainrings are hopefully on their way soon.

The next step is to get the frame to get the paint removed/powdercoated, and then start putting it all together.

The next purchase is a half decent seatpost, and whilst I search fro some good rims at the right price on eBay, I'll borrow the Europa's old set from Richard.

The aim is to get it on the road in the next few weeks and enjoy the riding freedom.

As an aside, I weighed the bare frame and forks. The frame squashed the scales at 2.56kg, and the forks at 0.74kg (no bearings, BB's or races in either of them).

Makes the modern sub 1kg frames a bit light on ......
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Postby Minority » Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:08 pm

But think of it this way, the extra weight helps with your momentum on the downhill bits and gives you more excercise on the uphill bits!
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Postby Seele » Wed Sep 12, 2007 12:04 am

MichaelB,

So it's you who bought the Sachs kit... I have been eyeing them for a while!

Look at it this way: if you can use the 27" wheels and live with it, then I cannot see why there is a need to seek out 700c ones.
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Postby MichaelB » Wed Sep 12, 2007 9:15 am

Seele wrote:MichaelB,

So it's you who bought the Sachs kit... I have been eyeing them for a while!

Look at it this way: if you can use the 27" wheels and live with it, then I cannot see why there is a need to seek out 700c ones.


Yep, twas me. Hopefully it is a good brand/set.

27" wheels - the main issue is good tyres in my book. I'd be happy to stay with them if I could get them, but they seem to be mediocre at best.

The other thing is the the rear axles was loose, and the outer bearing races are damaged beyond use (could get a new axle), but I fear that the inner races of the hub are similarly damaged and therefore the hub is toast.

Given that I'd have to replace the rear hub anyway, I'd put in a flip/flop hub (Which I can do) and the rim is alloy & straight, but the front is a steel rim.

Anyway, a nice set of 700's would look good, but I can borrow the 27" rear from Richard as a starting point
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Postby Seele » Wed Sep 12, 2007 7:06 pm

MchaelB,

Point taken; my late departed Mottram had Barum at the back and Pirelli at the front and that was a nice combination. The Huffy brand from Kmart seems to be alright though, even though lately the supply has been a little spotty.

If the cone tension is not spot-on the races in a wheel hub can get worn, I tend to be quite pedantic about that and clean out all the hubs routinely as I come across a wheel, and replace the bearing greast with higher-grade lithium. It might be an idea to take the rear hub apart, clean the bearings out for a good look; replacing the cones and/or axle should not be a complicated exercise as long as the inner races are in good form, which they tend to anyway due to the rather hard steel employed for the purpose.

Keep us updated!
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Postby Mulger bill » Thu Sep 13, 2007 12:53 am

MichaelB, did I see a deal for you :D

Ebay link

It's a 40 holer so it might just hold Richard up :wink:

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Postby MichaelB » Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:09 am

Seele wrote: replacing the cones and/or axle should not be a complicated exercise as long as the inner races are in good form,


Can the Inner HUB Races be replaced ?

Mulger Bill, The guy you linked to was the one that had the Carlton frame earlier in my search for a Frame. Are 40 hole rims EASY to get in 700C ?

Richard put me on to a good link late yesterday, but lack of pics and time madfe me miss out on a good bargain.

Oh well, more things to find :D
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Postby LuckyPierre » Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:27 am

MichaelB wrote: ...Can the Inner HUB Races be replaced ? ...

Not to my knowledge. If the hub races are pitted, it's time for new hubs.
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Postby Seele » Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:13 pm

The inner races inside a wheel hub are made of hard steel, I cannot see how they can get damaged unless the axle was assembled poorly. Disassemblling, cleaning, replacing grease and reassembling properly tend to make the wheel run smoothly and also give you the reassurance that the hub is in good form anyway.
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Postby europa » Thu Sep 13, 2007 8:55 pm

I've yet to find a set of wheels with damaged races, but that's with fairly limited experience. However, I have cleaned out a few with hard, rock like grease that gave the appearance of pitted races. Once that slag was cleaned away, the races were good. The Road King's new wheels came that way.

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Postby mikesbytes » Thu Sep 13, 2007 9:38 pm

Can't you just tap the cups out of the hub and put new ones in?
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Postby Seele » Thu Sep 13, 2007 11:03 pm

mikesbytes wrote:Can't you just tap the cups out of the hub and put new ones in?


Nah... they are made to be integrated deep into the structrure of the hub and cannot be taken out.
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Postby MichaelB » Fri Sep 14, 2007 8:59 am

Seele wrote:The inner races inside a wheel hub are made of hard steel, I cannot see how they can get damaged unless the axle was assembled poorly. Disassemblling, cleaning, replacing grease and reassembling properly tend to make the wheel run smoothly and also give you the reassurance that the hub is in good form anyway.


And the balls are made of harder steel again. The outer races are pitted badly. and I feel that the axle was loose for some time allowing crud to get in and with the freeplay, did a merry dance all over the place.

I'll clean them out and have a good look, but I think that the liklihood is that they are shot.
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Postby tallywhacker » Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:37 am

mikesbytes wrote:Can't you just tap the cups out of the hub and put new ones in?

when a hub is assembled the races are frozen and the hub is heated, the race is then inserted. when everything returns to room temp its pretty rock solid.
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Postby tallywhacker » Fri Sep 14, 2007 10:39 am

MichaelB wrote:
Seele wrote:The inner races inside a wheel hub are made of hard steel, I cannot see how they can get damaged unless the axle was assembled poorly. Disassemblling, cleaning, replacing grease and reassembling properly tend to make the wheel run smoothly and also give you the reassurance that the hub is in good form anyway.


And the balls are made of harder steel again. The outer races are pitted badly. and I feel that the axle was loose for some time allowing crud to get in and with the freeplay, did a merry dance all over the place.

I'll clean them out and have a good look, but I think that the liklihood is that they are shot.

take the hubs into a good bike shop, they should be able to replace the cones, get some fine steel wool from Bunnings and give the races a good rub down. Did this with an old set of track hubs on the weekend and they spin quite nicely now.
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Postby europa » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:04 am

It never ceases to amaze me what can be achieved with steel wool :D

Bet the bloke who invented it died poor :(

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Postby MichaelB » Fri Sep 14, 2007 11:11 am

tallywhacker wrote: get some fine steel wool from Bunnings and give the races a good rub down. Did this with an old set of track hubs on the weekend and they spin quite nicely now.


I think the hubs are beyond that. I'll try and get some pics to show how bad they are.
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Postby tallywhacker » Fri Sep 14, 2007 1:30 pm

europa wrote:It never ceases to amaze me what can be achieved with steel wool :D

Bet the bloke who invented it died poor :(

Richard

until recently I was always sceptical about using steel wool to get a nice finish but I used it on some ebay stems and old hubs and I am now a convert
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Postby europa » Fri Sep 14, 2007 2:37 pm

You can get a very high finish with some of the very fine wools :wink:

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Postby MichaelB » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:09 am

europa wrote:You can get a very high finish with some of the very fine wools :wink:

Richard


I will try that on the current stem before lashing out on another one.

Well, the frame and forks have finally been dropped off to get powder-coated after several aborted attempts for one reason or another.

After long deliberations of various paint schemes involving blue & white, highlighting lugs etc, I settled on an all Mother of Pearl with a clear topcoat.

After seeing the "Level" Kieren bike and a few others, I aim to keep it nice and simple.

It should be ready next week, and then the assembly process begins ....

Standby to Standby :wink:
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Postby europa » Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:25 am

Started making the polished timber display mount in the lounge yet? You're not going to ride that beauty on the road are you :shock:

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Postby tallywhacker » Wed Sep 19, 2007 11:48 pm

a bit of elbow grease, 400grit wet and dry, steel wool, car polish and buffing pad will give you this in an hour. If it is anodised then spray it with oven cleaner (the one with sodium hydroxide) and leave for 15-45 minutes.
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Postby MichaelB » Fri Sep 21, 2007 8:46 am

Don't know if I'll go that far, but will see how I go.

And Riichard, yes, I'll ride the damn thing. I just tend to do things well when I do them..... and get a bit carried away ....
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Postby europa » Fri Sep 21, 2007 9:26 am

MichaelB wrote:And Riichard, yes, I'll ride the damn thing. I just tend to do things well when I do them..... and get a bit carried away ....


That's alright mate, you'll notice that all my gear is scruffy - I'm at the other end of the spectrum 8)

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