Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
24" "road" bikes weren't that uncommon back in the day. I assume they disappeared as many people moved to mountain bikes and road bikes developed sloped top tubes that meant kids could ride larger bikes without too much chance of injury. It was rich parents that could afford to buy a 24" racer in the year or two between a BMX and a full size road bike!
I think there were a couple listed in the '88 catalogue.
Tyres don't seem to be too hard to find, although mostly mountain bike style now. http://www.bicyclestore.com.au/parts/tyres/24-inch/freestyle-street.html. Look around though because you might be able to find them cheaper.[/quote]
Hopefully not to hard to get it up and running, I assume these would have the same running gear as the adult versions? So in theory could salvage parts from a superlite etc for the missing brakelever and Front derailer etc. Also whats the best way to clean up the crome work? Just a bit of spot rust on the handle bars, but I should clean it up while doing everything else.
Autosol is always good for polishing up parts.
There might be some issues with compatibility of parts between a Superlite and a 24", not because of the size but because of the level of equipment. For example rear derailleur is brazed on on the Superlite but would have a hanger as part of the derailleur on the 24". Brake levers and stuff shouldn't be an issue though. Depends how far you want to go I am guessing the 24" is not SIS either, although I remember in the olden days we always felt we had "earned our boots" by learning to ride friction gear bikes before getting SIS!
Hi guys after seeing this pop up after doing a google search on retro Repco bikes I've spent the last 3 hours reading this thread. I'm thinking about transforming an old Repco into a university commuter bike (only roughly 5kms each way) and have instantly fallen in love with (the look of) those old school shifters. I must have them! It's times like these I wish I didn't trash my dads old Repco that my mate crashed and wrecked the real wheel Can anyone give some insight as to the process of restoring/cleaning up one of these old bikes? Looking at something like this, an Olympic 12 ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REPCO-Olympi ... 500wt_1378 ), look to be a good platform for me. I've seen quite a few of you guys fixing up these oldies and I'm wondering how much you have spent in the process?
Haven't visited thus thread in ages, but glad I did - love finding more info on my favourite frame. My Repco Niski Tri-A is still going strong, even though it now looks nothing like the original@
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
I've got a repco rt sport in the same black and yellow colour scheme as the Tri-A in the ad - it's mostly complete and in reasonable shape, just waiting around while I finish off a couple of other projects and decide what to do with it.. the colour scheme on the frame looks great and it is in reasonable shape, but the rest of the components are just ordinary. Tossing up between upgrading the components a bit or turning into a single speed cruiser..
So pleased to have seen this. It is exactly what I have so now I know the year of manufacture. My head tube has been (badly) sprayed black and i know i need to take that back somehow. Being a poor rattle can job, I might be able to do most with a fingernail and other less destructive methods. Does anyone have a photo of what the badge / decal / sticker on the front should be? I just need new yellow tape and cable outers, and will probably rebuild the wheels with DT Swiss DB as the current spokes & nipples look somewhat corroded. Also, does anyone have an idea on how to re-thread the internal derailleur cables?
2014 goal 52000m
feed the inner through, then slide the outer through.
if you can't get the inner through, enlist the aid of a magnet to draw it to the exit point.
best i can come up with.
Not a bad looking Superlite if anybody is interested:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Vintage-Repc ... 572wt_1186
It would not be at all strange if history came to the conclusion that the perfection of the bicycle was the greatest achievement of the nineteenth century.
Anybody know where I can get the following parts NEW (bottom bracket, cranks & chain) to fit straight onto my superlite (bottom bracket on my superlite is almost completely gone from wear & tear, it spins off center aswell).
Pics of my superlite (the crank is SUGINO VP130, bottom bracket not sure, the original standard one) the large one has 53 teeth, small one has 40 teeth. The chain has 110 links (no longer able to get low gears as the chain must have stretched & just comes off).
I want to replace the parts myself (1st to save money & 2nd to learn how to do it).
If someone could give me an idea of where to buy them (ebay, online bike store, etc.) would be much appreciated.
Any reason why you are looking for new cranks as well? Local bike shop would be fine for the parts (or online if you prefer) but you should only need BB, chain and at worst new chainrings unless the cranks are actually bent.
Your other issue is that you would need tools both for removing the old BB and potentially a different tool to install a new sealed bearing BB (unless you go for a NOS loose bearings BB). I am not sure that the tools for the older style are that easy to find any more and cheaper ones can often break trying to remove a BB that has been in place for more than 20 years! May end up cheaper just getting the bike shop to do it.
I'm looking for new cranks, just as when I replace something I like to replace the whole section while I'm at it. Probably don't really need to but might as well, if you know what I mean. Tools are not an issue, What I am asking is which BB can I put onto this particular bike, a shimano? what type of shimano, how do I know it is going to fit onto this bike?
Here you go, you obviously didn't like my first answer, so I'll give you the answer that you wish to hear.
It'll take about a minute, it'll cost nothing & it's as easy as pie.
In my opinion- Better have a big wallet if you're replacing everything on the bottom end without needing too, you'll be buying parts then buying other parts to suit the first parts you bought.
But then what would I know?
Last edited by Wal42 on Mon Oct 01, 2012 9:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
No I won't, hence why I am researching to find out exactly what I need to get. If it turns out to be too expensive then I simply forget about the whole thing, continue riding my bike as is & get a whole new bike altogether. How can replacing a BB & a crank be over the moon complicated??? It is only complicated if you choose to make it complicated, I'd rather simplify the project/task. Yes I have never worked on a BB or crank before (but I had never replaced the shocks in my car before either-Until I decided to. It wasn't that complicated - a car manual, bit of research, the parts & the job was done, I saved money & learnt alot along the way) Now I'm sure a BB & crank can't be more difficult than that was.
mate all you need to do is remove your cranks, take out your bottom bracket, measure the length of the spindle, buy a shimano square taper bottom bracket (from $20 and up) to suit.
refit your cranks and you're on your way. if you want to buy new cranks, look for square taper. if your chainline is out, you need a different spindle length.
you might need to buy the correct tools - under $50.
Doesn't have to be complicated - you're right. However, sometimes it is.
You referred to a car shock absorber replacement, as well as the fact you had a manual which presumably contained all the part details and instructions you required. That makes it a somewhat different situation from this one, where its highly likely you don't have a manual supplying you all the information you need.
Sometimes trial and error IS the manual.
Good luck with it though - let us know how you go with it.
The world wide web will be my user manual for this small fix. First research & then execute. preparation is 90% of the job. Took it to my new LBS today & they said they could replace my BB for $70-$75 (including labour). So I can always go with that. Actually today my crank was swaying drastically from left to right as it spun so I unscrewed the little cover thing to see that the nut was finger-loose, so after tightening it was much better (have no idea how it came so loose). So I've decided to purchase the tools & a BB & do it myself first then see how it rides & then if I can find a nice crank set at a good price I'll do that aswell. Anyone know where I can get a nice toolkit (which includes everything I need) which caters for a road bike? would be much cheaper then buying the tools individually, as I also will need to replace the chain & other things down the line.
why do you want to change your crankset?
http://www.torpedo7.com.au/products/UNT ... e-tool-set
cheap but it'll do the job. you can buy other (specific) tools as you need them.
the bike you bought is obviously second hand so without a general checkover the bottom bracket may be loose. The reason why your cranks swaying drastically is because bb being loose can result in very loose axle. the bearing cages inside the bb are probably shot to $hit. Remember, unless the chainrings are bent, there is nothing wrong with your crankset, its perfectly fine if you're just going to use it as a beater/commuter to go to uni to.
Best thing to do imho is speak to anyone locally in brissy who are willing to help you. take apart the crankset and bottom bracket, measure the length, and buy one from the lbs for $25... hell i might even have some spare cartridge ones here you can have!
The teeth are beginning to look quite worn & I like the idea of slowly upgrading parts/sections of my bike (instead of doing it all in one go). This is my very first road bike, have had it since febuary, done alot of K's on it & it's time to treat it with a couple of new parts.
The tool kit looks great, to buy each of those tools individually from a bike shop would cost $100+.
Who is online