Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
I've done a few upgrades to my Nishiki Olympic 12, thought you might be interested in looking at some photo's at
https://picasaweb.google.com/1170236384 ... directlink
This bike is also for sale in The Market Place
thank you kindly TF, here's the "I've ridden it a few clicks" photo after it was cleaned up etc...
sweet as a nut, it is. New old bartape, cleaned hoods. Just gotta regrease the BB bearings and she's race ready. Even got the original plastic crankarm covers.
UPDATE: Repco Victory Tri-A 1989/90 Crmo 4130 frame and forks. Pink/Green/Yellow/White Decals. Stock edge groupset./Which is now off the bike
I know it's not italian, tange or Reynolds frame, but its a solid bike, Everything except the decals on the bike are black or polished aluminium
After acquiring a few nice components, I have fitted almost everything.
SuperbePro Levers 2nd gen
SuperbePro Cranks- Love these, most noticeable improvement 50/39
SuperbePro RD rd5200- <3 friciton shifting.
Superbe FD- not superbepro but meh not much between them.
MKS RX-1 pedals. Not a fan of the Triangle shaped clip ins.
Sakae Custom Modolo bars.
Standard Crmo bottom bracket spindle shorter than old one to fix chain line.
All new bearings in bottom bracket, hubs and headset.
New cables and black jackets- Victory Tri-A had pink cable jackets- bit girly.
Nice black bar tape- old stuff was so old it crumbled when I tried to remove it.
Gave the frame a quick clean, but it's already dirty after a few quick rides. :/
Still need buy/and or fit
On the hunt for Superbe Pro calipers that aren't way over priced.
Need to find a nice set of Mavic or Araya Rims, Mainly just the rear.
Crank Dust Caps! Biggest overlook ever, need some metal ones.
Took her for a quick ride-, unfortunately front tyre tube needs to be replaced-slow leak., will put matching tyres and new tubes soon.
Still waiting on a better ratio 7 speed freewheel. Have purchased a Regina 13-19 tooth and it's in the mail.
Other issue I had is that when I brake, the cables/caliper don't seem to return properly. Hopefully the new Campy Calipers solve this issue.
Saved fair amount of weight off the bike with the new components.
Spent more than I should of, but I enjoyed building the bike up.
Will post pics soon as shes completed.
Finally done, Few small things to tidy up, but she rides fast and quiet.
Let me know what you think.
Love the suntour superbe pro friction shifting. Big improvement from the edge 4050 groupset.
Fairly flat in Perth so I'm running a 12-18 CX-S Regina Freewheel which makes a terrific sound.
Still need a few adjustments to the seat and stem to find what fits best.
Looking at getting new matching tyres. Either mid range durable Continental Gator or a schwalbe equivalent.
Cheers guys, I did enjoy buying lots of stuff off here from fellow members, so thanks to you guys. Building up the bike was lots of fun and frustrating at times. I think the bad lighting and the terrible resolution of my iphone 4 camera helped hide the bad bits, I have some oxidization on some alloy nuts ect that need a good polish out too.
Continental Gatorskins arrived today, going to fit them on this afternoon. I have gone for 25mm profile on the new tyres (up from the normal 23mm) As a bigger rider I figure the little bit extra air volume of a 25mm tyre over a 23mm tyre when both filled to roughly same PSI should be more suitable as I use it for casual riding, not racing.
Anyone else use Gatorskins or other Continential tyres?
Some of us have an attention span that last more than one thread. Some of us don't.
The other thread
let me help you prepare your ebay advert, ask me how
What the other scot said , but with that long stem it's actually not too bad, I would just need an extra foot or so on the seatpost!
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.
Hey folks, this is my first post. I'm actually glad I found this sub-forum.
I stumbled across an old Repco Monaco today. It really stood out for me at the local Cash Converters with its 80's colours (I don't usually hang out at Cash Converters. It was an emergency as I broke my phone earlier and needed a new one ASAP). Anyway, I picked it up on impulse for $40.
I think it's all stock, right down to the tyres and kick stand. I know it's no Superlight but the tubing is 4130 CrMo. Is this any good? It all works OK but I wouldn't really trust it to ride very far. I'd like to fix it up. I know it's not really worth anything but I'm developing a love of old school stuff - fixing it up and using it. I'm pretty sure I'll need to modernise the bike. The 80's group set and wheels aren't the greatest, to say the least. I'm thinking I may turn it into a single speed to keep it cheap(ish) and light. I might need help figuring out sizes of stuff and what's best to use.
Can anyone tell me the approx age of the bike? It has serial numbers stamped into the rear drop out - G0984 on the right side and 4589176 on the left. On to the pics. I think I went a bit overboard with pics actually:
At the local Cash Converters amongst the rest of the stolen gear:
And with a Specialized I turned into a single speed. Lots of nice bits on that - XTR, Dura Ace, titanium Rolls etc if anyone is interested:
Any help with my questions would be great. Thanks.
For what it is worth your bike looks like the same colour scheme as a Repco Traveller I got in 1987. As I understand yours is a step up on that.
You can date the components on the bike is to use the Shimano date codes
http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Japan/ ... _codes.htm
Thanks ecru. I managed to find a stamp on the back of the rear derailleur. It looks to be "IG" which may date the bike in the last half of 84. Thanks for that link. So the model range for these old Repco's was Traveller - Monaco - Superlite?
I need a bit of help. I dug out a new/old Dura-Ace caliper this morning. It's a 2010 BR-7800 model. I'd hoped it would fit into the Repco. It doesn't come close. It sits way too high. The pads run pretty much through the side of the tyre and don't touch the rim at all. The Repco still has the original steel 27" rims. Why is this? Do the modern components use different spacings? Am I stuck with the 30 year old 630N alloy "brakes"? Thanks.
Modern brake calipers were once considered "short reach" and usually have a max reach of 50mm.
"Standard" reach calipers back in the day where usually found on bikes with 27" wheels and allowed for the fitting of mudguards due to the extra clearance between the fork crown/rear brake stays. They also usually provided enough adjustment to allow the fitment of the slightly smaller 700c rims or singles for racing. Standard reach calipers have a max reach between 57mm to 62mm.
I just scored a bargain from the tip this morning. I was looking for a computer power supply and foolishly walked past the bikes. I spotted a very nice condition 1994 (according to seat post and brakes) Olympic 12. I got my power supply and left, but couldn't resist not coming back a couple of hours later for it. I was half hoping it was gone, as my mrs is telling me I DON'T need any more bikes (not that the instruction worries me, it's the tone and the emphasis that's delivered with it)... But there it was on my return. I didn't barter with old Patrick very much, happy to part with $60 for it.
Poor thing had an aftermarket kickstand, which has left three little corroded bits on the seat stay and chain stay. A couple of the stickers have lifted a touch. But other than that, it's very clean and tidy. Even the tyres are OK! Pumped them up, adjusted the seat and happily the gears are still in tune! It rides pretty nicely, but the BB and wheel bearings could probably do with a little fresh grease.
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