munga wrote:I might be keeping it. Nobody seems to think it's worth the asking price..
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That's the god's way of telling you to hold on to it.
Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
Another one saved from the 'skip'. A Repco "Road 700". Yes, I know, it's nothing special.
Just refurbished from a complete but unrideable rusty wreck with blue overspray all over the front half of the
frame, rotten tyres, no seat, and seized cables, chain and derailleurs. The frame is perfect, as was the original
speckled purple/black paintwork once the blue overspray was removed.
Already sold, and its happy new owner picks it up next week.
I don't think it scrubbed up too badly, really.
I don't care if it's a $20 Huffy or a $20k Colnago, as long as you're riding, and you're happy.
Well after stripping the frame down it appears the fork is not what Repco says it is. The steerer is Tange stamped with a Tange crown and forged TF tips. The catalog says the fork is, "Hi-Tensile, CCL crown and TF ends." The fork weighs 830g which whilst no light weight is certainly not a boat anchor. The fork I was thinking if replacing it with has slightly less rake and comes in at 680g. It's built with a champion rifled steerer the same crown race, tange Cr-Mo blades and Suntour GT tips. The tips match those used on the Olympic's frame.
I think I'll build the frame up and try both forks and see how it handles.
Why? I don't mind the DT shifters on my bikes that have them. I use them on my commuter and when I get on the bike with ergo's I initially try to change gears by moving my hand down
Pretty hilly area here and not great when you ride round a corner hit a steep hill and have to take a hand of the bars while grinding to drop gears. The other hand tends to pull the bars and put you into the kerb or oncoming traffic.
Then you need 2 Repco's, one with brifters for those conditions and one with downtube shifters for the sake of it.
"Technology gives us much more information but Education is never be able to give us the skill to evaluate it"
good tip elantra except i have taken the "n+1" formula a little to literally lately, sorta need to reduce the bike count. and another repco wont go far to achieving that,
Plus i think if i got another bike my wife might have something to say about that, like "Ok now i want another bike!"
anyway arnt all the cool set riding "Fixies" on flat areas these days?
If by "these days" you mean 2005, then yes.
None of my bikes have brifters, never ridden with them so I guess I don't know what I'm missing. Gear changes take a bit of foresight but generally don't put me in harms way, the brinelling (indexed steering) on my Oly12 on the other hand..... Well I should really get that sorted out.
One (read all) of my Eurosports have had this problem, even the bottom race was broken (seems to be the case with all old 105 headsets) however in lieu of having a spare headset or being able to get a new 105 one I just re-greased it and put it back on with the correct tightness (or in this case looseness). 566km later on Melbourne's rather ordinary roads and still no movement or ratcheting at all!
Might try Sheldon's suggestion of removing the race and filling with extra ball bearings first.
The lubricant breakdown theory sounds plausible. At first I thought the crash that bent my forks may have been to blame, except that was not the result of hitting a stationary object, but of a bag becoming caught between wheel and fork, sending me over the bars. So I'm not sure that the headset would've copped as much of a shunt. Dis-assembly may reveal more.
Yep, I do. Sorry, I had to close my Flickr account and haven't got them back up again yet. I will email them to you.
Note: I only have the road bike section at this stage, let me know if you need more as I can scan them if I get off my ****.
actually thats a great idea, effectively changing the pitch of the bearing so only one at a time will be fully parked in a rut, Sheldon really was full of lots of sound workarounds, but i hadn't read that one before on his site.
I did use his alt cable route trick on the brifters though.
So, i picked up a blue and yellow Repco Vertex TT frame a little while back. I'm slowly piecing the bits together for it, but unfortunately it's only got the 531 decal on the seat tube - no Repco or Vertex TT decals (guessing someone didn't want it known they rod a repco )
I don't suppose anyone has some appropriate decals i could use or hints on where i might get some.
anyone got any ideas on how i can stop the rear brake cable outer from rattling against the frame where it passes through the 3 lugs on the top of the top tube en route to the rear?
preferably something not to obtrusive to the eyes?
its black tubing and best i can think off is place a little black pvc tape around where it goes through the lugs, hoping it will be firm enough to not rattle anywhere along the tube against the frame.
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