munga wrote:I might be keeping it. Nobody seems to think it's worth the asking price..
Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
That's the god's way of telling you to hold on to it.
singlespeedscott wrote:Righto Repcophilles. I picked up an 1984 Olympic 12 on ebay last week and am keen to use it as my new longer distance bike/commuter due to it's double water boss mounts and Tange champion 2 tubing. However browsing through the 84-85 catalog I see that the fork is suppose to be Hi-Ten and that the main frame tubes are double butted. Replaceing the fork with a Tange Cr-Mo one is no issue has I have few that will fill the job but my concern is that the rear stays are Hi-Ten. Does anyone know if this is the case or are they the standard straight gauge Champion cr-mo items. I don't want to come across as a tubing snob but the bike it would replace is one of my Ricardo Elite's which although is built from plain gauge champion tubing I know for a fact is all Cr-Mo. No point in downgrading on the stay's IMO.
koshari wrote:been about 20 years and my repco elite rx is about to get upgraded with brifters
as much as i would like to keep it original iam over downtube shifters.
koshari wrote:Pretty hilly area here and not great when you ride round a corner hit a steep hill and have to take a hand of the bars while grinding to drop gears. The other hand tends to pull the bars and put you into the kerb or oncoming traffic.
koshari wrote:anyway arnt all the cool set riding "Fixies" on flat areas these days?
cray- wrote:the brinelling (indexed steering) on my Oly12 on the other hand..... Well I should really get that sorted out.
Might try Sheldon's suggestion of removing the race and filling with extra ball bearings first.singlespeedscott wrote:New headset time time methinks
The lubricant breakdown theory sounds plausible. At first I thought the crash that bent my forks may have been to blame, except that was not the result of hitting a stationary object, but of a bag becoming caught between wheel and fork, sending me over the bars. So I'm not sure that the headset would've copped as much of a shunt. Dis-assembly may reveal more.schuberj wrote:One (read all) of my Eurosports have had this problem, even the bottom race was broken (seems to be the case with all old 105 headsets) however in lieu of having a spare headset or being able to get a new 105 one I just re-greased it and put it back on with the correct tightness (or in this case looseness).
cray- wrote:Might try Sheldon's suggestion of removing the race and filling with extra ball bearings first
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