Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

dant
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Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby dant » Sun Jan 09, 2011 9:04 am

definitely in the top 3 best ever 1990 retro lo pro build threads...depending on the bulletin board

Over the last 6 months I have been accumulating parts for my Vernon Barker lo-pro. Initially I was going to build it up into yet another fixie for myself but when the frame arrived from the UK (purchased on ebay for 90 pounds!) I realised that it was just too beautiful to emasculate. So I decided on parts from the Dura Ace 74XX series. Some of them are below:

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NOS 8 speed

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Near NOS Levers from Fyxomatosis and NOS hoods from the UK

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NOS 167.5 mm. Chainrings to be replaced with a Cycle Underground single ring. Bike can only be 1x8 speed as there is only 1 derailleur braze-on.

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Near NOS brakeset. Maybe went a bit too far in the future but I wanted dual pivots. The single pivots are sexy but wanted slightly more functionality. Hope the single/dual combo doesn't cause problems.

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NOS Dura Ace PD-7401 pedals and near NOS aero seatpost

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NOS 13-21 Uniglide cassette. Since it will only be 1x8 I wanted tightly spaced gears. Bailout gear at about 48-21 - no hill climbing for this time trial bike! NOS 7400 headset.

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NOS 7400 bottom bracket and near NOS front (36 h) and rear hubs (28 h) with those beautiful skewers.

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Near NOS 7400 stem, Nitto RB-009 bull horns and used Scott "Lemond" aero bars. Got tired of missing out on Moser 51.151 horns and the Nitto's replicate the shape beautifully. Scott bars are cool. Everything is angled a bit low in the Scott bar shot including the bullhorns. The Scott's should probably be angled up more too.


Some info on the frame from the builder himself:

"This certainly looks like one of my low pro frames. Unfortunately when I retired a few years ago, the people who bought the business lost or destroyed all my records. The number 9063 or 9069 fits in with our numbering system and the details of construction look like my handiwork. The number indicates it was built in 1990, and this model is typical of the low pro's built at this time. The lugs are made by Haden specifically to suit small front wheeled frames. I cannot be sure of the tube type but it would be at the worst Reynolds 531 and could be 653 or even 753."

The colour has to be seen to be believed. When I first pulled it out of the box I couldn't believe my luck. It is in near-perfect condition for a 20 year old frame and the paintwork is still immaculate.

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The rear rim is a Velocity Deep V mill finish that has been polished. Front is a Velocity Fusion 24" clincher that was stripped from black and polished. Still more polishing to go.

Still a few things left to finish - determine spoke length and order, single chainring, tyres and saddle.

Saddle question
Have a white used Concor Supercorsa Confort but it isn't so great after about 40kms. Bike will only be ridden probably a maximum of 60km at a time. Do like the Flite Titanium and Selle Rolls as appropriate period saddles but unsure of their qualities. Anyone with experience or suggestions?

Spoke question
I weigh approx 68kg. Can I go radial on the front with the 24" wheel but with only 18 spokes rather than 36? Google suggests spokes in 2 holes, skip 2, spoke 2 etc.

Will be finishing this thing in the next few months and will post updates as I get it all together. Supposed to be going to NYC around May so have to be circumspect in my bike purchases now. Already spent all anniversary, bday, xmas presents for this year last year WITH THE MOSER BUILD and tinkering on other bikes.

My FLICKR SET FOR THE VERNON - some other photos.

CHEERS.

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spirito
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby spirito » Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:00 pm

dant wrote:
Saddle question
Have a white used Concor Supercorsa Confort but it isn't so great after about 40kms. Bike will only be ridden probably a maximum of 60km at a time. Do like the Flite Titanium and Selle Rolls as appropriate period saddles but unsure of their qualities. Anyone with experience or suggestions?

Spoke question
I weigh approx 68kg. Can I go radial on the front with the 24" wheel but with only 18 spokes rather than 36? Google suggests spokes in 2 holes, skip 2, spoke 2 etc.
Position has as much to do with discomfort on this bike as saddle shape. So many variables as to what you may find comfortable, and good shorts (nicks) are as important as the saddle. With such a forward and low position variances in position are amplified. I don't have an answer for this one - it depends is prehaps the only correct answer.

The 18 vs. 36 spoke wheel: You'll have to explain what it is you're trying to achieve.
Cranky Jim wrote: God did not invent gears. Men invented gears ... because we are not gods.

timbercomp
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby timbercomp » Sun Jan 09, 2011 12:07 pm

"Saddle question
Have a white used Concor Supercorsa Confort but it isn't so great after about 40kms. Bike will only be ridden probably a maximum of 60km at a time. Do like the Flite Titanium and Selle Rolls as appropriate period saddles but unsure of their qualities. Anyone with experience or suggestions?"

If you plan to ride in the aero position you will have to find out for yourself what is comfy, and it wont necessarily be what was comfy on a road bike. I like flatter saddles in an aero position, and that would rule out the rolls for me. Flites are a little flatter but when riding in anger people tend to "ride the nose" of the saddle in the aero position, and flites are narrow up front. judging from the seat post and (assumed) old school tt geometry on that bike, you'll probably find yourself moving forward a lot for power, so it could be a pretty big consideration. The arione is a great saddle for riding the nose and also sitting back (f you like flat saddles), but might not look retro enough for what youre going for. In short, get a flite, shove it forward and see how it goes, is my recommendation.

"Spoke question
I weigh approx 68kg. Can I go radial on the front with the 24" wheel but with only 18 spokes rather than 36? Google suggests spokes in 2 holes, skip 2, spoke 2 etc."
Are the spoke holes offset on the rim? I think with the quality of the other stuff you have, you should wait and find lower spoke count hub and rim... its going to stick out as not quite right on an otherwise pretty spot on bike :) I was thinking that maybe 12 would be better with offset holes in the rim(spoke in left hole, miss right hole, miss left hole, spoke in right hole, etc) and on a 24" rim 12 spokes might be okay if well built (citing old corimas there...)? but again, it would be best on a rim and hub with correct hole placement.

Lovely looking frame, by the way. And I don't think you'll have any problem at all with the brakes.
Retro MTB fan

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leighthebee
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby leighthebee » Sun Jan 09, 2011 2:41 pm

Stunning. Good luck....

aaron
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby aaron » Sun Jan 09, 2011 7:26 pm

Just lace the front to 36 hole radial.

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Verbs & Nouns
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby Verbs & Nouns » Mon Jan 10, 2011 10:30 am

A Concor would suit that build nicely.

It’s whether your junk will suit the Concor.

Rolls’ are nice saddles, but I don’t think it will suit.

A Flite would also suit. I looked at a Kypo lo-pro the other week that had the orginal (beat-up) Flite on it. Looked about the same period.
Ten Grand wrote:Goddamnit baby, this is soul... What's wrong with you?

dant
Posts: 112
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Location: Brisbane Southside

Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby dant » Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:57 pm

Just got back from Brisbane CBD - extremely wet and crazy and everyone bailing out.

Thanks guys. I think the crucial aspect of the build is the saddle. The flite is my preferred option - probably impossible to get one in white like my concor though. Had one on my custom Bill Toohey in the early 90's when in uni. wish I still had that retro ride. And I think I will invest in a pair of Assos bib shorts as it is important to protect my 'junk' (too small and easily squished).

With the spokes I meant that I have a 36h hub and 36h rim and only wanted to lace 18 spokes and whether it is okay. 12 spokes is getting pretty low :D Hard to find low count rims in 24" that take clinchers. the fusion matches the deep-v rear nicely but i think only comes in 32 or 36.

Time to look at some good Gore stuff with all this rain.

Cheers.

pat86brown
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby pat86brown » Wed Jan 12, 2011 4:28 pm

That is going to be one stunning looking bike! Would love to see the finished version posted. in due time of course.

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ValleyForge
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby ValleyForge » Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:15 pm

And the effort putting it together will be lost on most gawpers.

Anyway, will look a treat!
Ha ha ha! Cookies on dowels.

dant
Posts: 112
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Location: Brisbane Southside

Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby dant » Sun Jan 22, 2012 6:18 pm

Finally finished it. Few issues with it along the way:
  • When trying to fit uniglide cogs on to hub discovered that the 13t dura ace locking cog did not fit the hub - because it is a DA 7403 uniglide/hyperglide hub not designed for the smaller DA locking cogs
  • Swapped it for a non-Dura Ace locking cog
  • Then discovered that the rear wheel was too close to seat tube and rubbed. Probably a result of using modern deep-v's as opposed to old skool tubs.
  • So I filed out the dropouts to move the rear wheel backwards
  • Meant that the 13t small cog was now too close to the seat stay and the chain rubbed the stay
  • Then discovered that an 11t cog would not fit on the uni/hyperglide hub due to the threads continuing right to the end of the hub
  • Got out the grinder and ground away the last few threads
  • Also ground out a Tiagra 14-25 cassette and mated the 18t cog within a Ultegra 11-21 to create an 11-19 corn cob cassette
  • Means that the 8 speed shifter can only be used in friction mode but this is okay
  • Final problem was the 7400 brake levers - the hole is too big for normal brake cable and it just pulls through. So I added a couple of small nuts inside to prevent the ferrule from sliding through when the brakes are applied
Still want to change the bar-end plugs to either silver or white and the same with the bar tape. Would like to get an old flite and re-cover it white as well. But for all intents and purposes it is finally done.

It has taken a long time and a lot of money but I love it. I am going to get it photographed properly before soiling it. My wife said it isn't an option to hang it on the wall so it will be ridden.

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Time for the next build (designed by yours truly and Merckx paint job stolen by yours truly).........



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dayne
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby dayne » Sun Jan 22, 2012 9:22 pm

Nice job but all the filling grinding scares me.
It should not need to be done.
What size rear tyre are you running 23,25 if so this is why the frame was probably built to run 19mm tyres.
The rim depth does not effect the overall diameter of the wheel.
Nice build though.
As for a saddle try a concor sprint they are hard to find but pretty cool.

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ValleyForge
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Re: Best ever 1990 Retro Lo-pro build thread - EVER

Postby ValleyForge » Sun Jan 22, 2012 10:30 pm

[quote="dant"]
  • Final problem was the 7400 brake levers - the hole is too big for normal brake cable and it just pulls through. So I added a couple of small nuts inside to prevent the ferrule from sliding through when the brakes are applied
/quote]

I hope I'm not the only one who finds this scary. Hate to see the cable snap or the ferrule deform due to the nuts....

Don't Campy cable have big ferules c/w Shimano?
Ha ha ha! Cookies on dowels.

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