Before and After Pics by all restorers

[BLU_FZ!]

I "thicken up" when i see an Eddy Very nice

[mark field]

[quote="damhooligan"]no before picture, because the frame already had some work done by owner...

It took me a looong time to get all the colours on the frame, but the endresult is quite nice.. :


yes very nice indeed, did you choose the colours or redo existing colours, and when do we get to see the finished bike??

[hewey]

Giant Simple beach cruiser, my build was inspired by 1920s board track motorbikes
Before

After

[mark field]

unusual bars, very nice, hard to believe its the same bike.

[damhooligan]

no before picture, because the frame already had some work done by owner...

It took me a looong time to get all the colours on the frame, but the endresult is quite nice.. :

yes very nice indeed, did you choose the colours or redo existing colours, and when do we get to see the finished bike??

I had another merckx frame borrowed from the owner, and matched the colors to that frame.
So the colors are as close as they can get to original.

It's not my frame, so as soon as the owner send me pictures, i wil put them up here.
I know the following saddle wil be used:


taken from http://busymanbicycles.blogspot.com/

[WyvernRH]

1950's Super Elliott
Before:


After:


Cheers
Richard

[mark field]

awesome, you must be very pleased with the results, i like the blue hoods as well, a nice touch

[DRAD81]

Nice bike restores.

Are most of you spraying the frames yourself, getting it done professionally or powder coating?

[mark field]

Nice bike restores.

Are most of you spraying the frames yourself, getting it done professionally or powder coating?

i do all mine with a pressure pac, its much more laboursome but also much more cheaper and way more rewarding.

[WyvernRH]

Nice bike restores.

Are most of you spraying the frames yourself, getting it done professionally or powder coating?

i do all mine with a pressure pac, its much more laboursome but also much more cheaper and way more rewarding.

Just to give another view, I get the basic colours of all mine done professionally and do the detailing (lugs. box lining. lettering) myself. While I am handy with the torch and files I am absolute s##te with any sort of paint. I am not even allowed to paint walls by the wife . I would love to be able to do paintwork such as Mr DamHooligan produces but just not going to happen.
Cheers
Richard

[rebilda]

+1 on the auto colour pressurepacks.

Loads of colour choices. let you imagination run wild & just clear coat over the top

Saying that, my Paino was done professionally at the local smash repairer. Mainly because I wanted it done in Ford "nitro" & I couldnt get it in a pressure pack

[mark field]

+1 on the auto colour pressurepacks.

Loads of colour choices. let you imagination run wild & just clear coat over the top

Saying that, my Paino was done professionally at the local smash repairer. Mainly because I wanted it done in Ford "nitro" & I couldnt get it in a pressure pack

you realise of course that you have to show some pictures of this nitro coloured cycle , and how much did it cost to get done as ive considered having it done when i havnt the time to do it myself? and actually there is a company that can fill spray cans with whatever colour you want, i just cant remember who unfortunately, as i need to do some touch ups on the old ford.

[munga]

.. and actually there is a company that can fill spray cans with whatever colour you want, i just cant remember who unfortunately, as i need to do some touch ups on the old ford.

i believe autobarns can do it, pauly

[mark field]

heres my Shogun Katana.


as i foung her on ebay by markfield_32, on Flickr


front with all the good bits by markfield_32, on Flickr


sugino crank by markfield_32, on Flickr


rear derailer by markfield_32, on Flickr


the frame - hanging by a thread. by markfield_32, on Flickr


some nice detail of bottom bracket by markfield_32, on Flickr


rubbed back, primed waiting for sanding and topcoats by markfield_32, on Flickr


seatpost after sanding with fine grade wet and dry. by markfield_32, on Flickr


after dismantling, polishing and re assembly by markfield_32, on Flickr


crank, derailer after polishing and fiting with new chain stainless cables and cable cap by markfield_32, on Flickr


front brake, polished, new pads added by markfield_32, on Flickr


bars polished with wet and dry, new tape, cable housing and stem. by markfield_32, on Flickr


finished bike minus aluminum bottle cage and look pedals by markfield_32, on Flickr

[familyguy]

This comes to mind:


Whats the green?

Jim

[mark field]

jim, i used Powerplus touch up paint 350gm pressure pack the colour is gunmetal and the code on the lid is PK9190. Purchased at Supacheap Auto. and theres two coats of clear to give depth but im a little disapionted with ther finish. All brightwork was refurbished with my Ozito brand 'dremel tool' using the felt pads and autosol polish. Bars were dinted and scratched so i hit them with various size grit wet and dry until i was down to 1200grit.

[munga]

lovely work with the components.

some 800 sandpaper on the primer might have helped with the finish coat mark. some swear by heating up the paint a bit too. drop the can/s in a bucket of hot water from the tap (not too hot - you don't want to pop a can of boiling paint onto the laundry ceiling) for a few minutes.

[familyguy]

It looks better than new. It looked more green on my work monitor, now I've got it at home, the gunmetal comes out more. Still nice .

Jim

[elStado]

I like this thread. Nice and simple summary of many of the builds going on on the forums.

Here's a fixie I converted from an late 80s 10-speed (Biopace) that my friend's dad discovered in the storage shed and gave to me as I was looking for a project bike.

Cost less than $300 including: sandblast + powdercoat, new wheel (with flip flop hub), new tire, wheel tape and tube, new bar tape, new pedals (swapped them out in the end with some others) and new saddle. Rides very nicely and the fixed gear is quite a fun experience. I've been commuting to Uni most days of the week with it and it's been great.

Before:


Rideable condition - no tape yet and flat pedals:


Current:


The first and last pics were taken on mobile phones, so not great quality.

And yes, I am aware that the front tire has a reflective stick out of place. No idea how I botched that but CBF'd fixing it. Adds character I reckon.

[mark field]

lovely work with the components.

some 800 sandpaper on the primer might have helped with the finish coat mark. some swear by heating up the paint a bit too. drop the can/s in a bucket of hot water from the tap (not too hot - you don't want to pop a can of boiling paint onto the laundry ceiling) for a few minutes.[/quote]

the less than smooth finish is actually the gloss, the primer was sanded smooth with a scotch brite which is my standard method, i find if i use sandpaper to rub back it's easier to wear down to bare metal , the scotchbrite seems to have a cushioning effect in that the pressure of my hand is more evenly distributed.The colour also came out smooth, well smoothish, in hind sight i think had i heated up the cans as per suggested then the paint would have flowed much better. I think i was lucky to have a good bike to start with it was a fairly easy resto- hardest part was putting the bar tape on, as my bikes were always dragster's and bmx's. and i used an artline marker to colour the gumwalls which were not as fresh looking as id liked. id like to know what brand the front derailer is. ive got no idea.

[munga]

looks like a shimano Z206 derailleur from about 1986


rd looks to be light action L525?

[mark field]

looks like a shimano Z206 derailleur from about 1986


rd looks to be light action L525?

cant believe how quick you picked out that one, i just checked and yep- we have a winner, i remember the rear derailer said something like that before i scrubbed it off when i was pollishing up, id like to replace the decals if possible, but thats neither here or there. if you say its from around 86 then im assuming my bike is of that year or around then. The serial number is TC0 1900989 would that mean made on the 19th september 1989 ? not that it really matters to me though. thanks for picking up on the front derailer

[HappyHumber]

Nice work Mark for sure.
I didn't recognise it but thought your RD looked nice & sexy polished up. But since Munga pointed it out as a Light Action - I think I'll go home and look at my Long Cage version on the ol' Kuwahara MTB with a fresh set of eyes

Did you disassemble it much to clean & polish it up?
You'll probably find somewhere on the RD (and most Shimano parts for that matter) a two letter code something like 'K D' which signifies year & month of part manufacture at least. If you find a bike with mostly Shimano parts with codes with 18 months of each other, allowing for stock levels and assembly times on the frame - there's a high probability that they're original.

[leighthebee]

nice all. keep them coming....

[mark field]

Nice work Mark for sure.
I didn't recognise it but thought your RD looked nice & sexy polished up. But since Munga pointed it out as a Light Action - I think I'll go home and look at my Long Cage version on the ol' Kuwahara MTB with a fresh set of eyes

Did you disassemble it much to clean & polish it up?
You'll probably find somewhere on the RD (and most Shimano parts for that matter) a two letter code something like 'K D' which signifies year & month of part manufacture at least. If you find a bike with mostly Shimano parts with codes with 18 months of each other, allowing for stock levels and assembly times on the frame - there's a high probability that they're original.

thanks, if it came apart, it was pulled apart, i tried to get my $$ worth out of my ozito tool and autosol polish. The bars were the most laboursome as the stamping had to be sanded out due to severe scratching. Now i can hit Illustrator and start on the decals for the derailer.

ill check the lettering, thanks for that.