Painted steel will still rust...you just won't see it until it breaks through the paint layers. But it's there.spirito wrote:Hooligan is all knowing. If you don't want it to rust then paint it. Clearcoat is porous and most other "treatment's" are much the same.damhooligan wrote:
My experience tells me, they all rust...
Bare Metal clearcoat...
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby stevebaby » Sat May 14, 2011 8:38 am
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby stevebaby » Sat May 14, 2011 9:01 am
I think I had a build thread but I can't find it.munga wrote:do you have a build thread for it, mate?. what frame is it?
I decided after finding and renovating a kerbside bike that I wanted something that fitted me and with better components than Shimano Arabesque. i asked on this forum if anyone had a spare frame in my size and hit the jackpot immediately with a frame and fork from a forum member at a good price. It was in really good nick but had been resprayed with car paint. I originally planned to have it chromed until I got the quotes and ended up just having the fork plated. The forum member didn't know what it was,but it had a Tange No.! sticker on it, which may or may not have been original. So I don't really know who made it and I'm not too fussed about it. It appears to be double butted and it's very light, about 4.5 lb. according to my bathroom scales (which also may not be accurate!). It fits me perfectly and it rides beautifully and that's all I really care about.
The other components...
Shimano 600 AX brakes
Shimano 600 AX hubs with Velocity Synnergy rims. eyeletted and double walled.
DuraAce 7400 cranks and chainwheels.52/42
DuraAce 7400 aero seatpost.
DuraAce 7400 brake levers.
DuraAce 7400 bottom bracket and headset.
DuraAce downtube shifters,indexed.
Shimano Crane R/D
DuraAce 7400 F/D
Kusuki polished stem.
Shimano 600 AX bottles and cages.
Brooks Swallow saddle.
Nitto Randonneur bars with VeloOrange stitched bar covers.
VeloOrange cables, braided.
Panaracer Pasela tyres,originally 700 X25 but now 700 X32.
I used to have a VeloOrange front rack and bag on it,but I took them off to make the bike lighter, although I still use the bag occasionally as a handlebar bag. I'll probably refit it it when they get the decaleur that I want back in stock. I would have liked to fit some alloy mudguards but neither the frame or the brakes have the clearance for them. Pity that, I think the mudguards would really set the bike off well.
With the exception of the stem (kerbside find) and the R/D (ebay) all the parts are either new or NOS. Or were!
I had a lot of luck with this bike. All the parts fitted together and it worked well from the start with no fit or compatibility issues. Very much good luck than good management or planning.
It wanted to be built...
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby damhooligan » Sat May 14, 2011 2:55 pm
Close.amrjon wrote:I would think clears would have similar porosity to colours? they are similar in chemisty, just the resins only without the pigments. Powder coats are often polyurethane or epoxy based, as are many paints. If there is a difference in corrosion performance its more likely to be related to the absence of a primer. It's generally the primer in a coating system that contains the pigments that provide corrosion protection, commonly chromates.
Clearcoat is not designed to be used on it's own.
Its designed to be used on top of primer, and colour.
That's why clearcoat has different properties then other paints.
The primer is a key ingredient because of the bonding to the metal.
The key is to not let air get to the metal, and you achieve this by a good bonding, leaving less room for air.
This is why powder is so effective, during the baking cycle, the metals literally melts with the paint.
Pigment plays no role in this,pigment is just colour.
Hope this helps.
SCHIJNVEILIGHEID !!
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby Ferrovelo » Sat May 14, 2011 6:16 pm
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby damhooligan » Sat May 14, 2011 7:20 pm
Don't worry, I don't know it all either.amrjon wrote:Close. Don't worry, I do know a little about paint chemistry. There are a few not quite right bits of info in this thread actually, but I'm not hear to debate. We all just offer our comments and we can all take or leave the info from others as we see fit. It sounds like you have a lot of experience painting bikes, something I don't, so I appreciate what you share.
There is a chance you know something I don't know..
If I am saying someting that is wrong feel free to correct me.
I'm just trying to help..
SCHIJNVEILIGHEID !!
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby Ferrovelo » Sat May 14, 2011 7:55 pm
Unless I learn something more as this thread progresses.
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby stevebaby » Mon May 16, 2011 4:57 pm
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby damhooligan » Mon May 30, 2011 8:52 pm
Yep, I'm stil following it.Scammer wrote:if anyone is still following this post, Before, After, Behold! Very pleased!
So what did you end up doing ?
Wich clear did you use..
SCHIJNVEILIGHEID !!
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby Wingnut » Fri Apr 15, 2016 9:20 pm
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby Ferrovelo » Fri Apr 15, 2016 9:40 pm
http://ajsblogcycle.blogspot.com.au/201 ... nneur.html
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby elfoam » Fri Apr 15, 2016 10:53 pm
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby hiflange » Thu Apr 21, 2016 11:26 pm
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Re: Bare Metal clearcoat...
Postby Torana68 » Fri Apr 22, 2016 10:59 am
sandblasting gives paint a good "key" to attach itself, sanding does the same, paint may or may not stick to surfaces that haven't been "prepared" you can wash the frame with a acid prep to remove surface oxidation before paint.......2K paints stick better than any others and are harder. No experience with clear powdercoat.
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