Just Squeeze It A Little Bit
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Last edited by MountGower on Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Therein lies the beauty of friction shifting.
Regarding the rear forks - they rabbit on about getting those rear drop outs parallel, but when you look at how sloppy most production bikes are, and what they are squeezing against, does it really matter? Probably does, but I reckon there's a good case for using the production tolerances and subsequent wear to your advantage - a case of 'if you can make it work, go for it'. You wouldn't set out to build a quality bike that way, but you're not building from scratch are you. Richard I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
Thanks for the info MG, should help with the Tamari rebuild...
Toolong? used his homemade headset press in reverse to respace the rear end in The Shed, "MacGyver tool no 2" Shaun ...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
With the friction shifters??? I have a smallish question.
My build is a 12 speed so the friction shifter i am using is an ofmega 6spd. Do Friction shifters have set gear ratios or what? Would i need to get a new shifter if i wanted to go to a 9 or 10 speed??? Mitch. SOME PEOPLE ARE LIKE SLINKYS. NOT REALLY GOOD FOR ANYTHING BUT THEY BRING A SMILE TO YOUR FACE WHEN PUSHED DOWN THE STAIRS.
Until next time...
Friction shifters are clickless - they rely on you to put them in the right position. Actually, good shifting involves over shifting a little then backing off. This means that provided they've got enough range of movement (and they usually have HEAPS), you can make them work over a much wider width of cassette than the original 5 or 6. Mind you, they can wind up in some funny angles.
Richard I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
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