Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
23 posts • Page 1 of 1
Saved this bike from my dad who was taking it to the tip shop. Its his old one with an interesting story of being left at a school 15+ years ago and finally came home a few months ago.
I like the older style road bikes and would like to restore to its former glory, problem is I know nothing about bikes. Heres what I know about this one though.
Paconi (Kevin Wigham) with 531 tubing
Shimano 600 arabesque group set (all there from what i can tell - the pedals are detached but there)
Dont know about the wheels?
-Little to no rust - from what i can tell only on the bolt ends
-straight and no dents
As i said, would like to fix it up but dont really know where to start...
wanting to break it all down and clean it all
contemplating sandblasting and respraying - colour ideas?
im guessing will need new tyres and tubing?
anyway, if people could let me know of what i might be in for and what to look out for as well as some associated costs that would be great.
if theres interest will be happy to keep people up to date on its progress
anyway...here it stands as is
A nice frame there jimmy. FWIW, it's your bike to do with whatever you want, but I wouldn't respray it if the paint's in good nick. Not doing it will save you considerable money and keep the original decals. and wow - that appears to be a tight clearance between the front tyre and the downtube.
LG = Low Gear
Looks like a nice bike and well worth a bit of effort to get it back on the road. I would'nt respray it if you don't have to, but you will want to disassemble it, clean everything, repack the bearings, replace the cables, tyres/tubes brake hoods, bar tape, chain and rear cluster and brake blocks and shout yourself a new saddle and you're done. I'd lose the tri bars too
Would love to see how it turns out!
Thanks for the replys and the interest.
Yeh will be loosing the tri bar and had a feeling it wouldnt really be worth the effort of getting the frame sprayed. When giving the bike a quick rub with some spit on the thumb, the decal was getting roughed up, but hopefully wont loose them if giving it a proper wash.
About the wheel clearance, is this possibly due to someone having changed the original rims? If so, would it be recommended to get new ones?
Have exams at the moment, but once there done planning on taking it down to the bike shop so they can give a look over and point out anything alarming. Are there some good online shops for parts I should be looking at or not a huge difference in price from a bike shop for what im looking at doing? Having never stepped into a bike shop, any rough estimates on what grantw has suggested?
a side on shot, in good light would give a better understanding of the front wheel clearance
might be good if you gave a suburb where you live for recommendations as to a good LBS.
In Adelaide I go to one bike shop for my old bikes, and another for my carbon bike. Play to their strengths!
if you are in Melbourne, perhaps a visit to here might be useful
one was restored on the fixed gear forum and I think he was looking for hubs like yours.
good for inspiration.
get your exams out of the way, read through many of the threads on this forum
Which is doublespeak for check the tubes aren't creased and the forks aren't bent. They look pretty straight, but so did my old Miyata that got shortened after a front-on stack. Close inspection showed the creases and a 12mm shorter wheelbase as a result
With luck, it's ok, and its a good score. Even if the frame is cactus, the parts are a good find on their own.
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
Is it just me or does the top tube in front of the first cable guide look a little suss. Time to break out the straight edge
Didn't pick up the hints about the wheel being so close might be a sign of a bang, but thanks for people pointing that out. The first plan was to get the bike checked out at a LBS and see what they had to say. I checked it out myself and couldnt see any paint damage or wrinkeling. Got the straight edge on the top and down tube and from what I can tell is its straight. There does seem to be a very minor gap when looking through the straight edge just at the tip? Maybe from a minor bang? Dont know whats the norm in putting up pics but will chuck some more up for those interested with some more questions.
BTW Im in Tassie, Hobart, so if anyone knows the good LBS to check out let me know.
Disapointingly I think the hubs and rims are a mix match of junk but will let you guys fill me in on this. Also unsure on what brand the handle bar is. Anyway heres more pics
Checking with the level
Joytech hub with a SUMO 27 x 1 1/4 rim
Unknown hub with a MAVIK rim (see below)
It looks a fair bit better from the angle of that photo and is probably fine. Also looks like 27" rims with the brake blocks as high as they'll go on the callipers, so probably really could do with 700C wheels. This would also give an extra 4mm clearance.
I still say it's a nice bike! I'm in Hobart as well, send me a pm if you like, and am more than happy to have a look at it with you.
LG = Low Gear
or the effect could have been using a camera at close range, barreling the subject.
Better to get some distance away and zoom in, get down on knees, and shoot straight. The blue Paconi photo demonstrates how to do it, and the image properties confirm it; Focal length of 50mm
whereas the OP's image was taken with a focal length of 35mm.
The tubes look OK in the straight edge photo so it's probably just the 27" wheels that made it appear to be bent in the earlier photo. If the frames straight its a good one to do up. Measure the wheelbase for a laugh thogh it looks like a very short wheelbase frame either way. Thats not bad just more track style handling maybe response could be twitchy with a long stem depending on the fork trail which doesn't look like much trail either.
Paradoxically it is a touring tubeset and has guard eyelets. Ask your dad what his intended purpose was for it when he had it built..
Yes its an odd look 531ST and the eyelets on such a short wb frame could still be the 27" wheel effect visually. Still looks like a keeper though.
OK...so heres the dimensions
Seat tube: 58 cm
Top tube: 56-57 cm
Wheel base: 100 cm
Will leave those with you guys to decide what it really is
For me I hope to turn it into a classy commuter with also some light casual riding.
LG from here has offered to have a look over the bike in person once my exams are out of the way so im sure he will have some wisdom to share then.
Things I can distract myself with in the mean time though are the cosmetics such as a colour scheme...and some advice on a probable modern wheel set (thinking 700c based on what people have been saying) and tyre combo upgrade with the bikes intended use in mind.
When I say colour scheme what I mean is just the grip colour, brake cable, seat (recommendations on this too), and also the tyres I guess depending on what happens with those. I know its all personal and have had a look around on some of the bikes here and some great looking schemes going on, but bit unsure on what to do with the plain black.
Any idea on what brand the handle bars are? Unsure as well if that branding is for the insert into the fork tubing (dont know the term sorry) or the actual bars themselves.
Keep the info and suggestions coming its been exciting to see the posts come in
Doesn't look as though it's been bent. Some builders make them close like that. I think it looks good. A friend's Daccordi is as tight as that on 700c wheels. The insignia on the bars will be on the handlebars themselves. It is not a separate sleeve. Unfortunately, the light is shining on the logo so hard to see the brand but there's some other writing underneath the main name.
It looks like a frame that I have and haven't been able to identify. Do you mind telling us the frame id number configuration and where it is? Eg: F1______. Don't have to say the actual number if you don't want.
Good period saddle. One other check that you can do yourself is to get low to the ground behind the bike with the steering dead straight and see if the front wheel, where it touches the ground is in line with the back wheel.
Definately a nice bike, well worth fixing up.
I see there is a broken spoke in the back wheel. Need to do something about that.
I've had a Paconi in the past and the stamping was simply KW on B/B and K wigham on steerer tube of fork. Also still had the pins inside the lugs in the bb shell. Ring any bells on yours. Mine was 531 also , but had the noodliest rear end I've ever experienced so I sold it on.
Ok so seems just getting some new wheels and putting them in isn't quite as easy as I thought it might be. Current plan then is just to wait until cleaning the bike up and establishing the hubs condition but if still semi decent will just use the existing ones.
I had a look last night and couldn't find any id number, and from what BRLVR has said, there might not be much of one anyway. Im unsure on where abouts B/B is on a bike so can check there to confirm if similar if someone fills me in on where that is i can check.
When you say noodliest rear end does that mean would whip about or difficult to handle? Guess I will find out soon enough
Had a closer look at the bar, and some of the logo is faded but the writing below the logo appears to be French. Some googling of what the logo might be along with the underneath writing hasnt produced anything but thought someone may have seen it before.
Whippy when out of the saddle and on the gas hard. I thought it was 531c, but it may have been 531P. either way the seat and chain stays and Bottom Bracket moved around way too much for me. Pity cos it was an awesome looker. My Bundy track displays none of these characteristics and it's 531c, but the rear stays appear a little beefier.
23 posts • Page 1 of 1
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