Vintage, yesteryear and retro biking
No, that's not quite right. Crank puller tools come in 14 and 15mm sizes, Cyclo and Sugino make both sizes, I have examples. Both are readily available from various stores.
If all else fails get yourself a 'Peanut Butter Spreader' crank bolt spanner.
The Cyclo/Weldite 'Peanut Butter' crank bolt spanner is available in 14mm and 15mm and IRRC I bought one recently from Torpedo 7 for about $10.00. Park and Campagnolo make them as well but the Campag one only comes in 15mm IRRC .
PS if we are talking really old stuff TA and Stronglight had weird nut and crank thread sizes on some models which need the specific tool.
Sure, I don't disagree that you can buy pullers in both sizes, though 15mm aren't anywhere near as common as 14mm, and most people buying at a LBS or a standard tool online, will be buying a 14mm tool. If I didn't already have a tool that worked, I'd seek one out myself.
EDIT: I should also add that my upbringing and place of residence through much of my life has probably contributed to 'making do' and bastardising tools. I grew up on a farm a couple hours from a hardware store, and still live more than an hour from a hardware or LBS. Thus if something doesn't quite fit or do the job, the angle grinder becomes my friend .
LG = Low Gear
Big thanks to bigfriendlyvegan for lending his Park tool, which took seconds to pull off the crank bolts after all these months. Next discovery was the Campag BB, and the Italian threaded shell. Lockring came off, but the NDS cup aint coming out with my cheapo pin tool(seems to be rusted in, and Id need a more precise tool to break the bond). The fixed cup came out without too much trouble, and this revealed a Campag axle with the newer engraved logo and marked 70-SS. Inside the shell came out with flakes of rust though. Will need to pull out the NDS cup to give it a proper clean out and see how bad the rust is.
I am sure that the fork is Columbus as the steerer has the Columbus SLX rifling. Looking inside the BB, I cannot see any rifiling, but going from the Italian BB, would it be a fair guess that the tubing would be Columbus as well.
If you're re painting it just heat the bb with a small gas burner,
If not get a big pin spanner tool and clamp it to the bb with a piece of timber either side to stop the tool jumping out.
And you obviously know the Italian thread bb both spin the same way ?
That's why they are usually lose one side.
After a while attempting to remove the NDS cup, I decided to follow Dayne's advice and heated up the BB shell today over the stove, and it came out. It was rusted tight, and took a fair bit of effort to remove. But once that was out, I got down to rust removal and paint stripping. Upon stripping, I found out that the purple is not the original colour. It was a neon orange, and had some old logos still on the frame, or a least visible on the primer(both sides of the seat tube as pictured, and both sides of the downtube, directly next to the DT shifter bosses). It reads SEERS Racing. Anyone know anything about that? This bike did come from up in Port Macquarie, which has a cycling shop owned by Graham Seers. I can't seem to find any info of a team or a brand though.
Anyway, heres the frame completely stripped of the old paint
The worst bit of surface rust
And the rifling of the Columbus SLX fork. However, there are no signs of what the frame tubing is. Prob Columbus cause of the Italian BB shell
These are great,
The open end is perfect for pedals too.
Judging by the rear drop outs I'm guessing this would be a later frame from around the mid 90's but may be wrong,
It's amazing what a bit of heat can do to help undo things, bundys are very nice frames and I'm sure this will come up great.
The dropouts are Shimano uF, semi horizontal dropouts that are from the late 70s and early 80s. There's a few listing on eBay which come in DA EX packaging, so the Velobase dates seem accurate.
Upon dissolving the seatpost, I found out that there is another tube inside the seat tube. It takes a 27.2mm seatpost, but that other tube inside the seat tube prevents me from pushing it far inside(Guessing its 15cm down). I initially thought that it was a repaired frame, but there were no visible joints when I stripped the paint. Weird, anyone have an idea why it's like that?
Anyway, over the past few days I sanded down the rust, and primed up the frame, whilst thinking of a paint scheme. It'll be pearl white fading to a metallic blue out the back. This is it so far.
Initially I wanted to have a pearl white with a blue shine to it, but I opted for the cheaper paint. But still worked out nicely.
I primed it with Galmet Keytite Steel primer, which is a penetrating primer to convert light surface rust, straight out of the can. As for the rest of the paint, I use my 0.3mm tipped airbrush. A bigger tip would get the job done much quicker, and get less clogged up, but mine still works alright.
As for the paint I'm using, it's this pearl white, and pearl sapphire from Monte Marte(a relatively cheap brand which I found at a discount store). Cost me $4 for a 75mL tube of paint, which I thinned out and mixed with some white to brighten it up. The blue will only be thinned out and sprayed on. 75mL of white which is thinned out to approx 125mL was more than enough for the frame and fork. I'll also have a lot of blue leftover too. For the clear coat, I still have leftover clear acrylic polyurethane(Cabots Cabothane from Bunnings) from painting my two carbon bikes earlier in the year.
EDIT: Added some touches to my fork crown. Do you guys reckon a Columbus fork sticker would be fitting, or will it be too busy?
Sneak peek of whats going to be on the frame too.
Only if it's onto gaspipe or the size of a "LOOK"!!! decal QV
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
I know there are Jim Bundy bikes and Peter Bundy bikes. If you're a very close friend of the family, you might be lucky enough to have a Col Bundy bike. I've never heard of a Quang Bundy before, though.
Nice work, QV. You're going to be an engineer, so you might as well start doing some metallurgy and make your own headtube badge.
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