My Saddles

[GaryF]

and my latest work in progress


for the Blue Riband

That looks very much like a Brooks swallow. Talk about an iconic saddle.

Did you do the leatherwork? It really looks great. That saddle would enhance any steel bike.

I've never had a Brooks Swallow but I would love one. I wouldn't care if it was comfortable or not.

[P!N20]

Took my McBain to Bunnings last night and thought I'd take a picture of my recovered Concor saddle in its current state:



As you can see, plenty of wear on the sides, but it is a few years old now and I ride in jeans a lot. The patina matches my frame

When are you planning to start a bar tape thread and wacky spoke pattern thread, Gary?

[GaryF]

Took my McBain to Bunnings last night and thought I'd take a picture of my recovered Concor saddle in its current state:

As you can see, plenty of wear on the sides, but it is a few years old now and I ride in jeans a lot. The patina matches my frame

When are you planning to start a bar tape thread and wacky spoke pattern thread, Gary?

Those McBain's seem to be everywhere these days. That could be a thread starter, haha. Looking at the shadow it appears that your McBain is a very fine track bike.

I must admit that I do like the patina of a bike to match the patina of a saddle, it just looks right to me. Your recovered Concor really does look the part and the choice of recovering leather is a great choice, i'm learning.

[Derny Driver]

I've never had a Brooks Swallow but I would love one. I wouldn't care if it was comfortable or not.

I had one. Original 1950s in excellent condition. Sold it recently for $350

[GaryF]

I've never had a Brooks Swallow but I would love one. I wouldn't care if it was comfortable or not.

I had one. Original 1950s in excellent condition. Sold it recently for $350

I suppose an original 1950's Swallow would be a very rare item and if you had a good, old bike from that era that you love, a period correct, and in excellent condition, Brooks Swallow would be a wonderful addition for that bike. I think someone got a pretty good deal.

[Derny Driver]

I suppose an original 1950's Swallow would be a very rare item and if you had a good, old bike from that era that you love, a period correct, and in excellent condition, Brooks Swallow would be a wonderful addition for that bike. I think someone got a pretty good deal.

Yes it was the finishing touch to a beautiful restoration. I'll see it again in the next Retro bike show.

[P!N20]

Those McBain's seem to be everywhere these days.

Mine's legit though...

[GaryF]

I suppose an original 1950's Swallow would be a very rare item and if you had a good, old bike from that era that you love, a period correct, and in excellent condition, Brooks Swallow would be a wonderful addition for that bike. I think someone got a pretty good deal.

Yes it was the finishing touch to a beautiful restoration. I'll see it again in the next Retro bike show.

That's always nice to see things go to a good home.

[GaryF]

Those McBain's seem to be everywhere these days.

Mine's legit though...

That's a great looking McBain (real McKoy) and looking at the geometry, it looks fast and mean. If I had seen that parked outside Bunnings I doubt I would have made it inside the store, just admiring your pure race machine. The Concor really looks the part atop this beauty. Don't you just love the profile of the Concor saddles?

Thanks for the photo PIN20.

[P!N20]

it looks fast and mean.

Yeah, until I get on it.

Don't you just love the profile of the Concor saddles?

Yes, yes I do. Actually I might put my spare Supercorsa back on my Montello and keep the Regal for showing off.

[WyvernRH]

I have a Brooks Colt on my singlespeed mtb. I am sure the thing was carved from granite. All my Brooks saddles have been comfy from the get go but the Colt has taken a long time to shape to my butt.

Yup, the Brooks Colt is made of the thickest (most high quality) part of the hide and it's 'Rounder' shape supports the leather more making it a real PIA to break in. I bought my wife one back in the early 1980's which got quickly passed on to me and while it was never on my tourer (which did the big miles) it got ridden on. Just starting to flex now in 2018.... I inherited another Colt on the Flying Gate which from the looks of it had never been ridden on and it really starts to annoy my posterior after about 60-70k and above 80k I'm avoiding bumps. Might be the 20c tyre tho

Also I am a big fan of the touring <sic> type plastic/leather combo saddles that came out around the 80's like the Turbo, the Royale and the Madison. I can just jump on any bike fitted with one of these and be comfortable. They are not going to last as long as a Brooks tho. My main ride (Claud Butler built circa 1960) still has my fave Brooks Swallow that came with it from the dumpster I rescued the frame from back in the late 70's so I've no idea how old that is and The 1930's Brooks on my Claud Butler Tour Anglais is going fine.
I have to say I always preferred the Wrights saddles over the standard Brooks B17 but as someone with 'rugby forward' type thighs my all time favorite has to be the Brooks Swallow or the equivalent Wrights or Lycett models - pure bliss right from the get-go.



Richard

[GaryF]

That's an interesting summary of your saddles Richard. I agree about the comfort aspects of the plastic/leather saddles once you have discovered the one(s) that fits you.

Now, I think we all agree, the Brooks Colt is out. Not comfortable for a really long break-in period. Case closed!..................or is it?

[uart]

That's an interesting summary of your saddles Richard. I agree about the comfort aspects of the plastic/leather saddles once you have discovered the one(s) that fits you.

With that type of saddle I find that the other really important thing is the amount of flex in the plastic shell. Too little flex and they can be hard and uncomfortable. Too much flex and they change shape too much under load, and can even bottom out on the seatpost clamp.

If you get one that's the right shape to fit your butt, and if it has just the right amount of flex in the shell, then you can get a very comfortable saddle.

[GaryF]

That's an interesting summary of your saddles Richard. I agree about the comfort aspects of the plastic/leather saddles once you have discovered the one(s) that fits you.

With that type of saddle I find that the other really important thing is the amount of flex in the plastic shell. Too little flex and they can be hard and uncomfortable. Too much flex and they change shape too much under load, and can even bottom out on the seatpost clamp.

If you get one that's the right shape to fit your butt, and if it has just the right amount of flex in the shell, then you can get a very comfortable saddle.

That makes a lot of sense uart. A very good analysis - thanks very much.

[Clydesdale Scot]

Did you do the leatherwork?

Yes. The leather is thicker than any Brooks use. That plus the tied design would lengthen the breaking in period.
I haven't applied any Proofide to the leather.
What I am going to trial is a suggestion to dampen the leather, leave it to 'rest' for a short time, then use it for up to an hour, checking on the impressions my 'sit bones' are making on the damp leather. It is just 'fine tuning' the leather moulding technique using the natural properties of vegetable tanned leather.
Once I have the desired impression, I will let it fully dry, apply Proofide, and hopefully it will be customised and comfortable.

If it doesn't work, I can just make a new cover

[GaryF]

Did you do the leatherwork?

Yes. The leather is thicker than any Brooks use. That plus the tied design would lengthen the breaking in period.
I haven't applied any Proofide to the leather.
What I am going to trial is a suggestion to dampen the leather, leave it to 'rest' for a short time, then use it for up to an hour, checking on the impressions my 'sit bones' are making on the damp leather. It is just 'fine tuning' the leather moulding technique using the natural properties of vegetable tanned leather.
Once I have the desired impression, I will let it fully dry, apply Proofide, and hopefully it will be customised and comfortable.

If it doesn't work, I can just make a new cover

I've heard of that method before but i've never tried it out. It sounds like it should work and with a thicker leather, like you have used, the breaking in period should be far quicker as you suggest. That's some very impressive leather work by the way. It must have been difficult just cutting the hide out and allowing for the tied centre section and then shaping the contours to fit the frame. I wish I had those skills.

[Clydesdale Scot]

no skills... I can do it!
The brass plate works well, as do the Chicago screws.
saddle for 1952 Blue Riband by philip.knight, on Flickr
Next one will be easier.


All that means is I have to find other challenges.
Like this one for a friend
Peters B12 by philip.knight, on Flickr

[GaryF]

Wow, very neat Clydesdale Scot.

Yep, the B12 looks pretty much a challenge. I bet you can do that one too.

[P!N20]

There's a couple of cheap Concors on ebay at the moment that would be good candidates for recovering: https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/tomaszszypo ... 7675.l2562 (scroll down.)

Tempted, but really don't need any distractions from current projects right now!

[GaryF]

There's a couple of cheap Concors on ebay at the moment that would be good candidates for recovering: https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/tomaszszypo ... 7675.l2562 (scroll down.)

Tempted, but really don't need any distractions from current projects right now!

They are good candidates and there is a Cinelli Unicanitor and a Rolls too.

[P!N20]

This is my 'spare' Supercorsa I bought off ebay for a good price. I got a little duped, the seller must have put some sort of sealer on it for the ebay photos, so only after a couple of rides the sealer came off and started to look tatty.



Never mind. It might get a recover one day, but in the meantime is there anything I could do to restore the leather a bit? I've used shoe polish in the past but find it doesn't last long.

On a side note, I found this 'how to' which uses water to mould the leather into shape. Quite interesting, wouldn't mind trying it: http://www.instructables.com/id/refurbi ... h-leather/

[GaryF]

Great 'how to' link - thanks PIN20.

I hope you can clean the surface of your saddle - how annoying.

[Clydesdale Scot]

but in the meantime is there anything I could do to restore the leather a bit? /

see if there is a nearby leather specialist that stocks Tandy products.
https://www.tandyleather.com.au/en/
Take the saddle in and ask them for advice.

I would get some kangaroo skin and recover it.
Kangaroo leather is very strong, surpassing other leather for the same thickness.

[P!N20]

^ Thanks CS.

[GaryF]

I would get some kangaroo skin and recover it.
Kangaroo leather is very strong, surpassing other leather for the same thickness.

I was completely unaware of the qualities of kangaroo leather.