The place for fixies and other rides without gears
So this is the wheel set
http://cyclingdeal.com.au/shopping-cart ... -wheelset/
It apparently comes with both a 16t fixed gear and lock ring, and a 16t SS, you have to choose what you want to run, it is NOT flip flop.
It seems some guys here have them, wjwat1 & mpa61, I know mpa61 had a 'bump' issue, did you get that fixed at all/work out what was the cause?
I guess I wanted to ask what people thought of them and their experiences.
Their site says $99inc gst & minimum order of 5 units, it they allows you to put in a quantity. What is the deal wtih that? Can i just buy one set??
Look I dont expect the earth for $99 plus postage? But are they good for a once a week fang and a bit of fun? Is there anything else anyone would reccomend over these for a good entry level deep v wheel?
WHat about these? I dont think these have a machained breaking surface?
http://www.cyclingdeal.com.au/shopping- ... -flop-hub/
Any information would be appreciated.
You might try these
the have a machined breaking surface. And are flip flop. Pity they did not have these when I got mine, on had freewheel.
They look good, i notice in the close up the free wheel has exposed thread, is that much of a drama?
And what is your opinion on the $99 wheels and the deeper V $120 ones (sorry dont know their names). They are both quando hubs so i assume similar quality. just diffeerent appearance perhaps?
Go to fixed . org and search stars rims.Those quando hubs are shite from all accounts.
take a look at these 160 free shipping. http://www.velogear.com.au/products/Sin ... 9-121.html
Ive got the white quando flip flop wheelset on my new fixie (see here http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=22022)
Havent done that many kms on it yet (<100kms) but they held up great. For a cheap wheelset theyve been going fine. Even hopped off a few kerbs (by accident) and crashed once (brakes weren't tight enough) and they still are rolling smooth and straight. obviously theyre pretty heavy but for a casual ride they do the job. i wouldnt try and commute everyday on them tho - might be asking for problems.
Can confirm the Stars wheels are excrement, I've had problems wth a stated 120mm OLN being about 108mm on a rear wheel, hub (Quando) quality is low, rim interiors are fill of aluminium swarf from machining. Spoke quality is low and tension eratic with significant wobble and hop tolerances.
I've a pair of the Novatech hub/Kinlin rimed wheels the same as Velogear is offering. The hubs are reasonable quality (close to Formula/Velocity) and the rims have held up ok at this stage. Spokes are better than Stars and the (machine) build quality is passable just. On the set I got recently from ebay for $169 BIN plus postage*, I found 3 spokes in the rear wheel 'nicked' and slightly bent from I think the machine wheel building process. I thought about sending them back, but could not be arsed with the phaffing about, so invested in 3 spokes at $1.00 each, detensioned the wheel, replaced the spokes and retrued it to a pretty good standard. I gave the front wheel a quick retrue as well and I've put about 300 km on them including 2 criteriums (yeah, I race crits on singlespeed) without drama's - actually had a 1st and a 2nd).
One word of warning, do not use the freewheel supplied with these wheels, it does not have the 'normal' 4 prong cutouts for a remover, you need a pin type bottom bracket wrench to remove which is just about impossible to get sufficient grip with. I released the issue before riding the wheels and replaced the freewheel with a better 'Dicta' one.
* Sellers of these wheels on ebay "pumpdoctor" and "ridesportz" seem to be the same mob or affiliated with velogear. Best to do a bit of research before buying, I'm going to buy another set now from velogear.
Last edited by 531db on Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:59 am, edited 2 times in total.
Punk Rob - from what i can tell the white ones do not have a machined break surface. Have you found that an issue. I hear you can get clear break pads to minimise marking. But do they stop you well enough? Also a question that would be a big help to me is what is the distance between your forks? Im trying to work out if mine are smaller than normal.
Front forks approx 100mm apart
Rear forks(dropouts) approx 125mm apart.
Do you think these wheels will fit that?
531 - 'problems wth a stated 120mm OLN being about 108mm on a rear wheel' what is OLN (sorry im a bit of a novice) would this relate to my question above to Rob about the distance between forks/dropouts?
EDIT: I suppose if anyone can tell me how to decipher the size speck of wheels/hubs. What numbers determine what size etc... So i can work out if they will fit my bike.
pleased to hear a favourable review of these wheels as I've got a set coming to me from velo gear. $161 (rim tape too)with free delivery.
i'd be considering these over those sh!tty stars/quando abominations if I wer you Solirossi.
have a read here http://fixed.org.au/forums/index.php/topic,9308.0.html
solirossi, i recently got clear bmx brake pads because the front wheel on my new (2nd hand) bike isn't machined. It stops fine but squeaks like hell. It can be heard a mile away. Ive just learnt to ride as if i was brakeless and leave the front for emergencies only. I ride 200km+ a week and havent had to use it for 3 weeks now. If you're going to use the brake, definitely get a machined wall
Got the same deal this afternoon except I checked the 2 x tubes for free box as well.
OLN means 'Over lock nuts' ie the width of the axle that fits between the dropouts.
The Stars wheels were too narrow at 108mm for my 120mm rear spacing so I had to space them out with spacers and washers.
The wheels from velogear are 100mm front and 120mm rear. The front will fit your front dropouts perfectly and the rear will fit your current 125mm (actually 126mm) rear if you 'coldset' your hopefully steel frame. If you frame is aluminium, you will need to place a 3mm spacer(washers) on each side of the axle under the locknuts, to get the correct width.
@silirossi - yeah i still run a front brake on the unmachined rim. It does stop but leaves black marks which i dont really care that much about. The brakes do squeal abit but the dude at LBS said that it should die down once my pads wear in (im using brand new pads) or i could fork out for a new better brand of pads which might help (im using regular no name ones). Never tried the clear ones myself.
mine just arrived ans all looks good, true, spokes are pristine etc...
The freewheel is labeled as a dicta on this set.I'll be removing it any way as these are going onto a dedicted track bike anyway.
No I haven't yet, I'm still waiting on the frame and fork to arrive from separate directions
Only one colour , Black hubs and plain silver rims.Yes there is quite a meaty raised section on the outer as a breaking surface.
All looks good out of the box though.
Update on the Novatech/Kinlin fixed/ss wheelsets.
My original post identified the rims as Kalin brand, they are actually Kinlin brand, who are a reputed manufacturer. Rims are clones of the Velocity Deep V and the quality is pretty close as well.
Second set arrived from Velogear and are perfect shape as far as component quality goes. Build quality (wobble and hop tolerances) is better than my first set, I've not felt the need to detension and retrue as yet.
Value in terms of price for these wheels is outstanding, you could not buy the equivalent individual component (rims, hubs, spokes, cogs) seperately for twice the price.
The original set had a run again in a 25 km time trial on Sunday, I posted my best ever time for the uphill first half (12.5 km) of the course , although the headwind home meant no personal records for the whole course.
They seem the goods to me also.
I'm currently running them on a conversion, no probs.
Deep v rims certainly give a more solid ride on the road.
I think i may need to drop back a little on the pressure.
Robust is a word that comes to mind.
Just to add,
I have a Quandro hub on the back of my fixie, has been fine for 2 to 3 years built into an old araya rim.
Peugeot Iseran - Geared Bike
Peugeot Versailles - Fixie
Peugeot U08 - Poser
Repco Nishiki - Single Speed
So Im going to get a set this week and have narrowed it down to these two
http://www.velogear.com.au/products/Sin ... 9-121.html
Basically for $160 landed on your doorstep you get
* complete wheelset front & rear wheels
* Kinlin alloy rim 30mm deep x 20mm external width - suits 700x23-28 tyres.
* 32 hole high flange Novatec Hub - flip flop for fixed gear and single speed use
* Supplied with 18T fixed cog and 18T freewheel - 1/8"
* 10mm x 120mm Cr-Mo solid axle with chromed track nuts.
* Wheels have machined sidewalls for brakes
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 419wt_1165
About $200 landed you get
Hubs - Formula/Origin8 High Flange Sealed Bearing Rear Fixed/Fixed Silver 32h
Spokes - DT Swiss Champion Silver 2.0mm
Rims - Weinman DP18 700c 32h Silver Non-painted. Safe for use with brakes!
Lacing - 3x
Style - Clincher
I suppose wiht this set id have to get the rear cog and lock nut, what type of coin would i look at there?
I assuming that the Weinmann Deep V DP18 Track Wheels are better as they are going to cost about 30% more.
What set do you guys suggest that i go for and if you dont mind the reasons for your suggestions.
The bike will be used for commuting to work perhaps once a fortnight, the occasional longer ride to mix up training on my roadie, say once a month, and the occasional track ride, Adelaide superdrome on a friday night/social night.
As you know I went with these and they seem fine for the coin.
You will need to tick the rim tape box which will add$2.50 to the cost and mark the free tubes as well.I overlooked the tubes for nix
I'm always looking for the best value lowest price so I would still go kinlin novatech combo.
I'd say formula/weinemann would be similar in quality.
Prolly another 15 to 20 $ for a cog and lockring if you go steel.
Flip a coin maybe.
You will need a real track bike to do that I think, not a converted road frame.
The geometry is wrong and the botton bracket with road cranks could see you strike pedals on the boards.
A(hillbrick) loaner is only $5 plus ten for track time.
Thats why I'm building my budget boardrider.
Thanks for the feedback guys.
@brauluver - good point re not the correct geometery, i thought that the frame would not be ideal for the track due to its more relaxed nature, however i had not considered the BB and crank set up and its potential to foul on the boards. I was looking to put 165 or 170mm cranks on it, do you think that will give it enought clearance?
And you are spot on, its hard to beat $5 for the lend of the Hillbricks there, $15 and you have a decent night of fun. Iv only been twice but really enjoyed it.
Ill let you guys know how I go with the wheel set once i make my decision.
I have the Weinman's on my conversion, and so far, so good after a couple months riding.
I got mine cheaper than those you've linked, they were not a "buy-it-now" auction. I won them for US$70 from memory with another US$70 postage. If you want the Weinman's perhaps check the auctions with a lower starting bid.
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