The place for fixies and other rides without gears
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I am new here and need some advice from those in the know. Please forgive me if this question has been asked, I just need some straight forward advice to my questions. Answers and articles I've been reading have a tendency to fall into technical jargon and variables that don't apply to my question - and as I'm still learning I just want to be sure.
I'm in the process of converting my Dad's old ten speed into a single speed. I've stripped the bike, found a flip-flop rear wheel (27") and what I would like to know is the shopping list and sizes anyone out there would recommend for the other parts I need. Or, if anyone has a link to an article that could help hit me with it, Mr Brown didn't entirely help with his article as it became rather technical.
Thanks for reading. Look forward to some advice. Cheers
EDIT: So, after extensive reading this afternoon and my umpteenth attempt at deciphering Sheldon Brown's jargon (among others) I think I can safely say I need to purchase a 165mm crankset - does this sound right? I'm looking at the Eighth inch cranksets, anyone know of anywhere to purchase these in Sydney? So the shopping list looks as follows;
165 mm crankset
107mm bottom bracket
Chain - What length/size?
27" rear wheel avec flip-flop hub
Last edited by Rastasairian on Mon Jun 28, 2010 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
G'Day Rasta, welcome outside.
You might be able to get away with just putting your front ring in the small ring position. Chainline is the thing to consider, you want it as parallel to the centreline of the bike as possible. It's possible you may need a BB with a shorter spindle.
This question would be better posed to the experts in the single speed board so I'll shift the topic over for you.
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Cranks only need to be short if you intend riding fixed, other wise the originals would be fine.
chain will need to be same as your drive train ie 1/8th or 3/32.a 1/8 chain is ok on a 3/32 drive train but not vice versa.The length will need to changed to suit your chain ring/cog combo( time to bone up on gear inches).KMC chains are 110 or 112 links in box.
Last edited by brauluver on Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Old road frames will have a lower bottom bracket, that could see you get pedal strike when cornering if riding fixed. Shorter cranks will lessen(not remove) the likelihood of it occuring.
Real track geo frames have higher B/B, but usually tighter head angles which results in toe overlap.At least if you buy decent bits now you can transfer them to a better frame later.A 700c wheel would be a better choice than 27 inch as a more trackish style frame probably will be harder to fit it to should you upgrade.Also mre tyre choices in 700c
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
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