The place for fixies and other rides without gears
Well if you wanna go fast on the flat go as large as you want. If you've gotta ride up some hills. 48 - 19 is pretty standard. good acceleration from a standing start and relatively easy to pull up. Remember also the larger the gear the harder it is to pull up. You don't wanna wreck your knees first time out.
plenty of info here.
+1, thats what I run, and its gold!
Plug all your possible combinations into this along with correct wheelsize and it will tell you speeds at RPM's on the right side http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/
helped me out heaps in the early days
Just put 175mm - pretty standard crank size
Peugeot Iseran - Geared Bike
Peugeot Versailles - Fixie
Peugeot U08 - Poser
Repco Nishiki - Single Speed
That wont effect your gear inches any way, only your gain.But default to 175 unless you plan on using a more track friendly 165 to avoid pedal strike when riding fixed.
Rim and tyre size do change the gear inches however.Even a smal dif between say 700/23 and 700/25.
Start with a modest gear ratio, say 65 gear inches. Apart from being easier to ride forwards, it's far easier to learn how to brake using your legs with a lower gear. You'll soon work out for yourself what to go for next and when to do so.
Most people seem to ride around 70 gear inches - it's like taking off in too high a gear on your geared bike but not excessively so, gives a reasonable speed on the flat, allows you to control your speed with your legs without ruining your knees and gives a decent top speed. For a flat road, it gives a cadence of about 90 at about 30km/hr. Get used to that and your legs will tell you if you want more or less.
Crank length - 165-170 mm will work best. The problem with fixed gear is that the pedals are always turning so you run the risk of a pedal striking the ground. You learn to ride around this and it ceased to be a problem, but 165-170 should give you all the ground clearance you need unless you're on a frame designed for longer cranks.
The shorter cranks are also easier to spin and that's important in fixed gear riding - you will be pulling cadences you normally wouldn't on your geared bike when going down hill and being able spin smoothly is an important skill.
USE BRAKES. I know, it's cool not to have them and maybe one day you'll have the skills to ride brakeless, but when your legs are cold or tired and you need to stop NOW, brakes work a treat. Personally, I use the brakes pretty much as I would on a freewheel bike only a lot less so because I'm also controlling the speed with my legs. Stopping using your legs alone will eventually muck up your knees - how quickly this happens depends on how high your gear is, so start with a low gear to learn the skills first, then build up gradually.
There are a lot of ifs and buts and 'what suits you' in this post, but that's exactly what fixed gear riding is like - it's highly individual.
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
Start with 48/20 or 48/19. My friend started with 48/21 and she now rides 48/17 (she lives in Canberra though)
Most people seem to be happy with a gear in the high-60's to low 70's (about 66 to 72 gear inches)
I'm actually building a single speed so I need brakes anyway.
he means 69 gear inches ,the delivery is a reference to an 80's movie called bill and ted.You may be little young.Ask your parents.
1 min 39 into this vid http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrGWooNDPiE
I like 71 Gi for street commuting duties
I ride an SE Lager. I changed the rear to 19 from 18. Made a subtle but welcome improvement. I have a couple of hills to deal with and the change in gearing meant I can get to the summit without pulling up on the bars.
I'm old enough to remember the movie. Just watched the clip from the previous post. Very funny. It was a movie that could make me laugh out loud
It's funny how much difference a single tooth can make. Never be scared to experiment, even with small things. Just remember, if it doesn't feel right, it probably isn't.
I had a good bike ... so I fixed it
ride your regular journey on your current bike and put your bike in a gear youre comfortable with, and when you get home, count how many teeth on your selected front ring and rear sprocket.
go from there
no idea what 2:6 could be, but remember if youre riding a mtb now, your fixie will have bigger (diameter) wheels, which means your "2:6" is going to be harder work on the fixie
as mr sheedy and the beerman said, consult the calulators
oh, and when you buy your sprocket, think about buying another one while youre at it, but one tooth smaller
Last edited by munga on Sat Oct 09, 2010 4:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I get the feeling EG may mean 6th sprocket on the middle ring.
Of course, I could be wrong...
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
Last Sat I bought a Giant Bowery with a 48/17. So far really enjoying it. I ride it on the M7 cycleway (so far only between Sunnyholt Rd and Eliz Dr). On rolling hills like that the 48/17 works well.
this is my first SS. I won't ride it fixed, but really liking the SS. It makes you work harder to keep a good average speed than on the normal roadie
GT Avalanche 1.0 | TCR Alliance 0 | Giant Bowery | BMW K1300R
Two wheels good, Four wheels bad
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