The place for fixies and other rides without gears
I have been investigating a particular bike that I am looking at converting to a fixie.
The only thing I am unsure about is whether semi-horizontal dropouts will work for a conversion.
Can someone please tell me?
Thanks but it doesn't really tell me about semi-horizontal...
If you can move the wheel back and forward in the dropout. It'll work.
apart from the two vertical ones and the fork end, they are all semi horizontal and suitable for fixed.
take a look at the pics of conversions in gallery.
Thanks alot. Oh, and by the way brauluver... I think I may have found a bike to convert.
Cool...pics to come?
Is it Cro Mo?
I haven't bought it yet so I'm not good with questions but it says that it has "race series tubing". The bid ends in 4d 12h so I'm getting excited.
I think I may go for the bare metal look and if I don't like that I will spray it white.
Post a link to the page if it's on ebay and let us check it out for ya.
I would prefer not to for I have not bought the item but I may when I have bought it.
I'm assuming your talking about this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Genuine-80s-Mens ... 0570740188
Should be perfect for a fixed/single speed conversion. It won't be a light bike, but it will be virtually indestructible. To put things in perspective, my current ride is made from the same steel and weighs in at 11kg complete, which I think is just fine. 1020 is nice steel; in fact all of my favourite knives are made from the same steel. Don't be fooled by the 'race series tubing' description though. There is nothing race about it.
What is good is that it already has a solid and reliable frame, 700C alloy wheels and brakes, suitable cranks and no obvious damage. Trust me, these are all very important factors and will save you a lot of $'s. If you did get it, my checklist would go something like:
- Chop and flop the bars (unless they are something really nice or you want drop bars)
- Reposition aero brake levers to the 'tops' of the bars (only if you chop and flop)
- Buy a single speed freewheel that matches one of your front chainrings to give appropriate gearing.
- Buy short stack chainring bolts, brake cables and pads, new single speed chain (3/32")
- Fit single speed freewheel and check for chainline.
If your lucky and everything works out you should be able to do the conversion for around $80. This includes buying nice brake pads such as kool-stops. Then you will need to add around $60-80 for good tyres and tubes. So your all-up on road cost may be something like $170-$190 (including frame). The only thing that may increase cost is spokes and dishing. Rusty spokes are fine, been riding on steel rims with rusty spokes that are 30 years old. Have given them hell, no problems. BUT, if your rear wheel needs redishing then you may haveto for out for new spokes + labor costs. In this case you would be better off getting a new rear wheel.
Then, ride the bike, decide what you do and don't like and then start replacing bits slowly as need/ money permits. Honestly, each bike is different and each one will tell you what it needs after you have ridden it for a bit. I have done conversions for two friends now using the "get it on the road and ride it" philosophy. They are both slowly changing bits as they need/discover/listen and are loving the process. I myself am finding that my single speed is telling me what it wants/needs to be a comfortable and fun ride every time I go out.
I guess, and without getting to fruity on you, there is a change in mindset that comes with single/fixed speed use that I was not prepared for. Personally, the simplicity and minimalism attracted me and the change in mindset has made me an addict.
I started out with a flip/flop hub with the intention of running a single-speed freewheel on one side for hilly/tired riding and a fixed cog the other side for every day use. On the day the gearing that I wanted for my freewheel side was available and the fixed cog was not. I bought the freewheel and soon realised that I had no need/desire to go fixed. The freewheel was perfect in terms of gearing AND application for my needs.
I terms of mindset I was unprepared for how deeply I would come to connect with single speed. For me bikes are utilitarian devices. I use them for transport and shopping, not as fashion accessory and not merely for recreation (although I do ride for fun regularly, just not as a primary function). What are your needs? Why are you making (yes making not simply buying) a bike? My need list went something like:
1. I need to get to work on time, every time (being late is NOT an option).
That was my entire list. Sure there are other things I wanted to do with my bikes(s), but they were all secondary. In my mind I saw less that could go wrong with single-speeds, in practice this was validated. What I had not anticipated was how much more fun the bike became to ride. I enjoyed riding to and from work on my geared bike, but I now get a buzz, really excited, about riding my single-speed. I'm more relaxed, smiling all the time when riding. Most days it is no longer 'how fast can I get to work' but 'how much time do I need to leave to get to work stress free and to enjoy the ride".
Crazy thing is most times I'm getting there faster on the single-speed than I ever did geared. I attribute this to greater efficiency in the drivetrain and improving cycling ability. I ride over hills on my 63" single gear that I struggled to get up using the 45" on my geared bike.
Sorry for the soap-box rant, but perhaps some food for thought re your path to single-speed nirvana!
Wheels are 27 inch so new long reach brakes may be needed.More importantly those particular cranks are pressed together and cant have chain rings removed/ changed.
That makes it less desirable for someone who is on a tight budget.
err...advert states 700C wheels and the cranks look like normal road jobs with stack bolts to me...and in the above comments I was assuming he was using the wheels that came with the bike, so no brake problems to be had.
Though, I may well be wrong! My apologies if I am
Yeah this is the header, abit misleading.
I've got a shogun sitting in my shed now that has those very cranks, and they are low end with pressed together studs not chain ring bolts.
Traps for new players
I am also looking at another bike, brauluver knows the one. It is a Repco Olympic 12 and looks ideal for my plans. I will also buy a SS conversion kit and convert the wheels instead of buying new ones. I can pm you the link to the bike if you like or you probably can hunt it down on the net yourself.
lol, you win! This is why it pays to ahve many minds at work Is it possbile to drill out the rivets and replace with bolts (I have before, but only certain styles lend themselves to it)?
@Evil, in you can't modify the cranks then you could just leave both rings on until you figure out a gearing that you like then upgrade later.
Ah, I missed the 27" in the header, good catch. @Evil, may need to email the seller and confirm this. If they are indeed 27" AND you need to replace the wheels at any stage then brake reach may become an issue. If the seller would oblige you could get them to measure hom much reach the calipers have, this would tell you with reasonable certainty whether or not you could use them with 700C wheels.
@Evil, yeah chuck me the link, can't hurt
@Evil, hey I saw that one the other day and gave it a good ahrd looking at It does look great, a far better proposition. Good luck!
Yes, It does look quite good doesn't it. I have another question though. Where can I buy a spacer kit in Melbourne and how much will it cost me?
When you say 'spacer kit' do you ment chainring spacers or freehub spacers?
free wheel spacer kit so virtually a single speed conversion kit for the rear wheel.
Ah ok. If the rear wheel you end up withhas a freewheel then you don't need a spacer kit. If it has a cassette then you will.
I went to my local bike shop and asked for some used cassettes or cassette spacers, got a handful for nothing. They work great and give heaps of options for chainline. You'll need about 11-14 of these depending on what type of cog/lockring combination you use. Luckily I also ended up with aluminum shimano ones that polished up nicely for a bit of bling. But, the plastic ones work just as well and look fine.
If you really want to buy a spacer kit then I'd just order online.
Ah. Ok. So if I go to my LBS and ask for spacers, chances are they will have some?
Maybe not the fancy ones, but every cassette on the market uses spacers in between the cogs. Your LBS may have some of these laying around that you can have.
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