Cold setting frames

flashrider
Posts: 216
Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 2:36 pm

Cold setting frames

Postby flashrider » Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:02 am

I had a fruitless search in this forum, but was wondering what a tried and true methos of cold setting to 125mm is? Other than the Sheldon method, that is...
Projectus Distractus Maxima.

User avatar
drubie
Posts: 4687
Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 11:12 am
Location: New England
Contact:

Re: Cold setting frames

Postby drubie » Fri Oct 15, 2010 1:24 am

flashrider wrote:I had a fruitless search in this forum, but was wondering what a tried and true methos of cold setting to 125mm is? Other than the Sheldon method, that is...


126mm frame on 130mm axle == just stretch it over, don't bend it permanently. It's not that hard.
So we get the leaders we deserve and we elect, we get the companies and the products that we ask for, right? And we have to ask for different things. – Paul Gilding
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.

User avatar
familyguy
Posts: 5326
Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:30 pm
Location: Cromer, NSW

Re: Cold setting frames

Postby familyguy » Fri Oct 15, 2010 9:27 am

Why 125mm? Track/fixie hubs (should) = 120mm.

If you're spacing a frame inwards to 120mm, you might have a slight issue with the dropouts not being straight in relation to one another. Not a problem on a road hub with a QR or the like, but on fixed hubs it can mean slippage. Good serrated nuts can fix that.

I spaced my steel frame out to 130mm with a chair and a length of wall stud. It wasnt quite centred though, so it runs more like 63mm one side and 67mm t'other.

Jim

User avatar
boyracer
Posts: 711
Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:29 pm

Re: Cold setting frames

Postby boyracer » Fri Oct 15, 2010 10:27 am

any good old school LBS should have tools for aligning dropouts, and making sure it is square.....mmmmm3380.

User avatar
rkelsen
Posts: 4402
Joined: Mon Apr 20, 2009 10:41 pm

Re: Cold setting frames

Postby rkelsen » Fri Oct 15, 2010 12:25 pm

flashrider wrote:I had a fruitless search in this forum, but was wondering what a tried and true methos of cold setting to 125mm is? Other than the Sheldon method, that is...

I'm not quite sure what you're expecting hear...

There is no magic to this. Sure, there are special tools which the professionals use to check alignment, etc... but these are all easily emulated as per the info on Sheldon's site.

I've respaced a couple of frames so far. You have to be careful with harder steels like cr-mo or mn-mo, because they require a bit more force... and it is very easy to apply too much. They are 'springier' and it can be difficult to tell how much force is enough.

Once you get it to the point you're happy with it, using the string method described on Sheldon's website, look along the seat stays and make sure that they both look fairly similar in the way they bend. If you find that one of the seat stays is visibly kinked and a true wheel doesn't sit straight, you can use Dave Moulton's method for straightening stays. Just make sure that you have a spacer of some sort between the dropouts.

The best advice I can give is to take your time, and maintain a cool head. This is not a difficult thing to do.

User avatar
hartleymartin
Posts: 5091
Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 6:56 pm
Location: Old Toongabbie, NSW
Contact:

Re: Cold setting frames

Postby hartleymartin » Tue Oct 19, 2010 6:16 pm

3/8" threaded rod (9.5mm) with nuts and washers. I recall reading that you have to use the threaded rod to spread the rear to approx 15 to 20mm more than the final width that you want the frame to be cold-set. However, I cannot find it right now.
Martin Christopher Hartley

http://raleightwenty.webs.com - the top web resource for the Raleigh Twenty
http://madmartysblog.blogspot.com - my cycling adventures

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users