Australian Cycling Forums - Bicycles Network Australia

Performer state the minimum height rider of 175cm, I'm 180cm (no shoes) with an X seam ~113cm, the PLR is to long for me(w/boom fully in), I may need to cut the boom to be comfortable 10mm would do it. I may aslo fit if I were to use shorter cranks but what are my options with external bearing BBs?

You'll find the FWD twitch (torque steer) will probably be minimised once you have a full range of gears. I only notice it if I really crank hard. Definately a spin bike but that suits me. I cut probably 2 inches off the bottom of the stem to move the bars further away (also dropped the stack on the headset/forks) and all that also stabilised the ride (more comfortable position for the arms removes the operator tweak). Be interested to see if you do notice the difference with 451's when fully geared. I didn't think it should make that much difference but I've recently been playing around with a Reach folder that runs 451's and a capreo hub and I've actually geared it back with a set of compact cranks with a 50 T top chainring. Without the Capreo would probably still need the 53.

Keep me posted.
Alex

Re Boom length - I'm only 174 so I had to cut a couple of inches out of the boom - its more than long enough - actually going to suggest the factory might want to produce them shorter to save a bit of cost. I now run 165 mm triples on my FWD - most companies do a range of lengths - mine are truvativ so it was a straight swap. think Shimano and raceface are interchangeable on outboard bearings not sure about Truvativ and FSA.
cheers Alex

nessbike wrote:Re Boom length - I'm only 174 so I had to cut a couple of inches out of the boom - its more than long enough - actually going to suggest the factory might want to produce them shorter to save a bit of cost. I now run 165 mm triples on my FWD - most companies do a range of lengths - mine are truvativ so it was a straight swap. think Shimano and raceface are interchangeable on outboard bearings not sure about Truvativ and FSA.
cheers Alex

In my opinion Alex making a shorter boom is a problem because for the likes of me I need longer booms and hence it's allot easier to cut a boom than try and stretch it to make it longer which we all know is impossible. So I much prefer manufactures make long booms with instructions included to cutting a boom should it be too long for anyone. The cost to produce one boom length would be cheaper than producing two of different sizes and just let the customer decide on length when they get there bent. I don't see the point of paying close to $100 more on top of the couple of grand just to purchase a longer boom when we could cut it. Not that many bent dealers in Oz allow custom builds so choosing a boom of correct length is pretty hard here where as over seas dealers allow just about anything so they have the choice but we are limited.

Ricky

Fair call Ricky - I think this is the approach Performer have adopted - easier to start long and cut rather than have to produce the odd custom long one at greater expense (obviously cost effective or it wouldn't be happening). From what I have seem they have adopted the technique of producing a single boom design that can be used across al models - hence it may be a bit long on one or two models but OK for others. Cheers alex

I know Alex that trying to make universal fitting components across a range of different models is a great idea to lower cost and while this can be viewed by others as not a good idea my personal opinion is if time is taken to design this type of system from the start it can be very beneficial more so for us the consumer. I know with all my DF bikes and bents this is something I do to cut down on keeping spares I make sure all bikes can be just about fitted out with parts from others because I ensure that all bikes are built using the same brands and model parts. Anyway I know I have taken this topic sideways so I will let you guys get it back on track as it's a good read because this brand of bike I like allot it just has allot going for it and listening to you guy talk about your experiences and set-ups fills me in further because I maybe biting the bullet and making a purchase with one of these.

Ricky

Ok a liitle bit more progress now, while installing the front derailuer I found there were no front cable guide under the frame like on Pauls LR (see pics)





I queried Performer and the response was as follows.

"I am afraid that our craft didn’t weld cable guide. We have made a possible solution to fix cable, as shown in attachment photo.

Thanks for your feedbacks to remind us keep improving and even to get better on quality and service.

I am really sorry to make these two troubles on you.

We will keep monitor each our production step to avoid any mistake in the future.

In order to compensate your loss and any inconvenience caused on you, we would like to give you a light bracket. This light bracket is installed on front boom to attach light or cycle computer.

The light bracket will be sent to Andy in next order."

I'd come up with a better way than rubber by using stainless wire which hooks over the pinch bolt with an eyelet for the cable to pass but it was a dissapointment to find this, the bonus light bracket doesn't really cut it for me.



How did you cut your boom Alex? I think I would get it professionally cut ($$) otherwise 1 it won't be a straight cut and 2 the paint will probably chip/scratch somehow.

I cant stand the seatpad!!! it's hard as a rocks and my bum gets sore I think I'll get some of the black Aircon foam, I already use it on SWB and IMO far more comfortable.

Riding experience: it's a smooth, solid bike for sure, no suspension and not really nesssary, the FWD chain is louder than my SWB (the tubes I recon) and the tube that runs up to the main idler has already been sucked into the idler and is a mess now.

When you cut your stem Alex did you need to cut the slit higher so it would clamp tight, how did you do that ?
As you can see in the above pic there is only one spacer so i don't think I'll bother removing it.

BTW: the gearing is way too low for my liking, and even though it rides on 451s the upgrade runs a 12t small cog so do you think 60t would fit or would 58t be the max?

Nice bike there storm and I can't believe that a simple cable guide was not welded on at the factory but glad that there listening to the customers concerns and good that they offered some form of compensation.

Hi Storm,

I cut the boom by hand (was tempted to use an angle grinder or drop saw but was concerned about possibly deforming the tube). Admittedly its not 100% straight but I've done a couple and it doesn't affect the final operation (and cutting by hand doesn't chip paint). Mind you any local engineering shop should be able to do a clean straight cut (and finish the ends with a linisher) in no time at minimal cost. I've done a couple of stems - a bit easier to cut straight as they fit in a fork steerer cutting guide. The clamping slot is easily recreated with a dremel - a wonderful tool for small job cutting and finishing. I've cut most of the return tube away at the top and I've actually zip tied the vertical tube to the fork leg (I actually went without it all together but the chain rattle was making a mess of the paint on the forks so have put it back till I get some of the frame protection plastic. Will takes some picks of setup and post later.
Cheers Alex

Storm,
belated update - just fitted a 56T front chain ring to my FWD. Don't think you'll get much bigger on as I'm at the ends of the post and derrailier Adjust (may squeak 58 but doubtful). Still get good clean up and down shift running 39/56 so thats a positive. Haven't managed to wind out yet so will have to stay tuned. On regular commute runs it seems to have given me at least 2 extra gears at the top while maintaining 35 km/h on a particular section so should help with long flats an downhills. Cheers Alex

The Performer is way under geared IMO, it's an issue for me, on the flats i'm not pushing only spinning, and as you see there is no room to expand past 56, heavens forbid make the post just 1" longer! On a slight decline I just spin up and coast I want to mash more ....I want the burn. 56t might be ok for the flats but it still leaves no room for fast decents.... the main advantage of the LR cannot be achieved due to the gearing incapability.

BTW I ride when I can, not everyday but often and I have become aquainted with the torque steer and rarely notice it now, although I don't ride in as straight a line as the RWD. My initial concern of the Idler is not an issue for me, my leg does rub and my tights get slightly greasy but I'ts never pinched

Storm,
Would it be possible to add a little extension to the post? I can think of a couple of ways to do it.

What do you think think the minimum X seam would be before you get an overlap of wheel and crank?

John

How do you suggest I extend it? Considering the derailuer clamp would need to overlap or sit just past the current end of the post. I guess could cut the post low and use an external split tube w/ hose clamps

G'day Storm,
Does the top of the deraileur tube have a plastic cap? If so you can remove it. Now get a length of Ali rod the same OD as the tube and have an inch or so turned down to the ID. This can be glued in the tube with epoxy or you could drill and rivet or thread in a short bolt.

If the top is welded shut you would have to cut it off to use this method.

Hope this makes sense.I used the same idea to extend the end of the handlebars on my lowracer a bit. I used hardwood rather than Ali as it was only an experiment. It worked well and was plenty strong.

Hope this helps,

John

slightly cleaner solution would be to use a 1 1/8" stem raiser. Designed to go over 1 1/8 forks to elevate handlebar stem. Post should be 28.6 mm - fairly close to 1 1/8" (may have to shave off some paint). this will give you a wide range of increased height although angle may become an issue depending what size ring you go to. Guess it depends on how you spin and what the bike is being used for - 56 /11 on a 406 is more than enough for me to get good flat road speed (I usually spin in the 110-120 range though as this is for long road miles - I'll use a 26" or 700 C rear low racer for race speed on a track. Alex

Yes John it's welded and the Xseam could be as low as 80cm before crank wheel overlap, moreso with the 406 wheel.

I cut ~25mm from the boom today using a cheap china mitre saw with a fine tooth blade, I'm very happy with the result and my PLR fits me now

I also shortened the chain tube running up the fork leg and removed the lower horizontal tube, its bracket restricted the small idler from sliding side/side.

Actually there is a small vent hole at the top of the post so maybe I can rivet an upside down "cap" w/=OD

If any of you need to cut a boom there's a reasonably easy way to get it straight. Use a sheet of A4 paper and tape the short side to the boom so that the long edge is where you want to cut. Now wrap the paper tight around the boom so it meets itself, lining up along the long edge. Tape it. Wrap some paper tape next to the paper to make a semi permanent mark. Remove A4 paper. The tape will be square and you can cut around it with a 32 tooth hacksaw blade. Dress the cut edge with a fine file.

In fact, a slightly angled cut makes insertion of the boom a lot easier. Instead of having to get the whole circumference entered square, you introduce the 'lip' and twist it in. It only needs to be a couple of mm's different - we're not talking 45 degrees here; 3 or so degrees is plenty!