- Posts: 1
- Joined: Fri May 11, 2007 10:42 am
Pleased to meet/read you all! I'm heading off to Europe in July & want to do some cyclo touring over there. Since budget's tight atm, I was thinking of converting my MTB (13" Trek 4100) into something more appropriate for touring. I was hugely encouraged by hoogie's article on bicycletouring101 (using a mountain bike as a touring bike).
Unfortunately I'm a noob still so I'm not sure if my bike's frame is suitable, hoogie & a lot of other posts regarding features of a touring bike mention... "relaxed geometery, longer wheelbase, longer chainstays and have rack mounting points on the dropouts".
Would you guys have guiding tips on those points? I'm still confused as to what they mean and how I measure them on my bike. Is there a general recommendation or ratio-to-size-of-rider for the size of the wheelbase etc..?
I figured the rack mounting points might be something important if I wanted to load panniers onto the bike, currently I don't think the bike's got mounting points or those holes in the forks for front mounts, and I already anticipate changing the fork since current ones have shock absorbers (suspensions?).
Looking forward to any of your input
- Super Mod
- Posts: 1381
- Joined: Tue Sep 27, 2005 5:32 pm
The long chainstays are required so when you put panniers on the rear rack, your heels won't hit the pedals when pedalling. I got around this by tilting the rack slightly backwards.
There should be some holes near the rear axle for mudguard mounts. A rack will bolt to these without any problems. The front however is a different problem.
On standard front forks, the Tubus Tara rack will fit but it is expensive. I've done a review here with some pictures - http://www.bicyclewa.com.au/reviews/tubusrack.php.
If you get some suspension forks, you can fit front racks to them There is a set made by delta. I've reviewed them here.
The Tubus Tara has a kit for fitting if there is no holes for a rack on a standard fork (Mine is a touring fork). The bottom mounting fits to the standard mudguard lug.
The mountain bike's geometry makes it a bit twitchy to ride on the road with a load, but by packing the heavy stuff as low as possible, you can counter this. The shorter wheelbase and high bottom bracket (Pedal shaft) make it twitchy to ride.
A touring bike has a longer wheel base and lower centre of gravity.
There shouldn't be a problem touring with a load on an MTB, you may have to make sure that your heels don't hit the panniers when they are full.
There are a couple of photos of my ex MTB touring bike here.
Hope this helps a bit
- General Australian Cycling Topics
- Info / announcements
- Buying a bike / parts
- General discussion
- The Bike Shed
- Cycling Health
- Cycling Safety and Advocacy
- Women's Cycling
- Bike & Gear Reviews
- Cycling Trade
- Stolen Bikes
- Bicycle FAQs
- Serious Biking
- Audax / Randonneuring
- Retro biking
- Fixed Gear/ Single Speed
- Electric Bicycles
- Dragsters / Lowriders / Cruisers
- Children's Bikes
- Road Racing
- Road Biking
- Time Trial
- International and National Tours and Events
- Cycle Touring
- Touring Australia
- Touring Overseas
- Touring Bikes and Equipment
- Western Australia
- New South Wales
- South Australia
- Northern Territory
- Country & Regional
- The Market Place
- Member to Member Bike and Gear Sales
- Want to Buy, Group Buy, Swap
- My Bikes or Gear Elsewhere
- Cycling Brands
- Cell Bikes
- Malvern Star
- Santa Cruz
- Custom Builders
- Generic Carbon
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: TonyB
About the Australian Cycling Forums
The largest cycling discussion forum in Australia for all things bike; from new riders to seasoned bike nuts, the Australian Cycling Forums are a welcoming community where you can ask questions and talk about the type of bikes and cycling topics you like.