So i am going to atempt my first wheel lacing
So Far i have
ZTR Flow EX rims 29ers Stans
DT Swiss 14mm Brass Nipples
Hope Boost Pro4 Hubs on the way
So from the wheel experts
what length Spokes Do i need ? for 3 cross
who has them in perth ?
wheel build
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wheel build
Postby jackthelad » Mon Mar 19, 2018 12:05 am
SantaCruz HighTower LT
SantaCruz Blur XC Carbon
Kona Kula Supreme(Retired/Spare)
Surly Karate Monkey
Ribble Rd Bike
SantaCruz Blur XC Carbon
Kona Kula Supreme(Retired/Spare)
Surly Karate Monkey
Ribble Rd Bike
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Re: wheel build
Postby baabaa » Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:37 am
Doubt it helps much as yours is boost (what do you have 142 or 148mm?) but I have DT Swiss Competition 2.0/1.8 276mm on DT TK 540 rims and a 135 mm Hope Pro 4 IS disc qr hub.
Why ask here when you could go direct to hope with an email for proper tech stuff like that?
Why ask here when you could go direct to hope with an email for proper tech stuff like that?
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Re: wheel build
Postby march83 » Mon Mar 19, 2018 8:58 am
You use a spoke calculator like this one: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
Plug in the hub and rim dimensions (hub flange spacing, hub spoke hole PCD, rim ERD), spec the wheel type (front/rear, disc, lacing cross) and bam you have your lengths.
Where to get the spokes from, not sure who can do them locally but any dirtworks reseller can get DT Swiss AFAIK. I normally order from BHS in the states because I'm typically ordering rims or hubs from them at the same time.
Plug in the hub and rim dimensions (hub flange spacing, hub spoke hole PCD, rim ERD), spec the wheel type (front/rear, disc, lacing cross) and bam you have your lengths.
Where to get the spokes from, not sure who can do them locally but any dirtworks reseller can get DT Swiss AFAIK. I normally order from BHS in the states because I'm typically ordering rims or hubs from them at the same time.
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Re: wheel build
Postby queequeg » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:10 pm
Just an FYI, pay attention to the new Spoke Calculation method that Roger Uses now. You ALWAYS round the Spoke Length UP now. Previously he would get you to round up or down depending on the number the calculator spat out. Now the calculator method has changed so you only ever round up, as the lengths it produces are now the "recommended minimum length".march83 wrote:You use a spoke calculator like this one: https://www.wheelpro.co.uk/spokecalc/
Plug in the hub and rim dimensions (hub flange spacing, hub spoke hole PCD, rim ERD), spec the wheel type (front/rear, disc, lacing cross) and bam you have your lengths.
Where to get the spokes from, not sure who can do them locally but any dirtworks reseller can get DT Swiss AFAIK. I normally order from BHS in the states because I'm typically ordering rims or hubs from them at the same time.
Refer to the help on the front page. I nearly missed it on my latest wheel build, as I used the calculator like I had a hundred times before, but did not see that he had changed the calculation.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '16 Cervelo R5, '18 Mason BokekTi
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Re: wheel build
Postby Trevtassie » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:19 pm
Another calculator http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/ has ERD and sizes for some rims and hubs in there. For spokes unless you were in a hurry, I'd look at the German websites.
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Re: wheel build
Postby queequeg » Mon Mar 19, 2018 7:20 pm
You'll need the following to calculate your Spoke Lengthsjackthelad wrote:So i am going to atempt my first wheel lacing
So Far i have
ZTR Flow EX rims 29ers Stans
DT Swiss 14mm Brass Nipples
Hope Boost Pro4 Hubs on the way
So from the wheel experts
what length Spokes Do i need ? for 3 cross
who has them in perth ?
http://www.hopetech.com/wp-content/uplo ... CD-1-1.pdf
https://www.notubes.com/pub/media/wysiw ... Series.pdf
You can choose to rely on the ERD that Stans gives you, or you can measure the ERD on the actual rim you get. The ERD is the single largest thing that will mess up your Spoke Length calculations, whereas you can pretty much trust the Hub measurements that Hope gives you above.
Depending on what spokes you want to lace, and how many spokes you want, I usually order them from Bike24 or Starbike, especially if it is bladed spokes you want. My last build was using DT Swiss Aerocomp spokes & DT Swiss Brass Prolock nipples. 80 spokes and nipples cost me 150 Euro (shipped), so $AUD240, ($3 per spoke & nipple) vs local price of about $7 (without the nipple!).
I rebuilt my Hope Pro2 EVO Hubs onto a pair of H Plus Son rims with the Aerocomps for a very nice and solid commuter wheelset, plus a handful of spares to cover any busted spokes (and avoid downtime).
If you go with Aerolite spokes or Sapim CX-Ray, the local price is even more crazy.
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '16 Cervelo R5, '18 Mason BokekTi
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Re: wheel build
Postby jackthelad » Tue Mar 20, 2018 12:08 am
Going the 3 cross Double butted or straight gauge spoke, its for a new commuter/munda biddi tour hardtail
SantaCruz HighTower LT
SantaCruz Blur XC Carbon
Kona Kula Supreme(Retired/Spare)
Surly Karate Monkey
Ribble Rd Bike
SantaCruz Blur XC Carbon
Kona Kula Supreme(Retired/Spare)
Surly Karate Monkey
Ribble Rd Bike
- queequeg
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- Joined: Thu Dec 17, 2009 10:09 am
Re: wheel build
Postby queequeg » Tue Mar 20, 2018 1:14 am
Just a standard DT Competition Double Butted spoke would be perfect. All my old commuter wheels are DT Comp DB spokes. Rock solid, easily replaced. The only reason I went bladed this time was purely for aestheticsjackthelad wrote:Going the 3 cross Double butted or straight gauge spoke, its for a new commuter/munda biddi tour hardtail
'11 Lynskey Cooper CX, '00 Hillbrick Steel Racing (Total Rebuild '10), '16 Cervelo R5, '18 Mason BokekTi
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Re: wheel build
Postby Trevtassie » Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:44 pm
Stans aren't eyeleted so I'd go the Double Butted, not straight gauge I reckon, to give them more stretch...though the Flow EX are supposed to have thicker nipple beds...
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Re: wheel build
Postby Duck! » Tue Mar 20, 2018 3:17 pm
I'd go Competition spokes regardless whether the rims are eyeletted or not. The extra bit of stretch from the thinner shafts takes some of the stress away grom the ends of the spokes, so the result is a more resilient wheelset.
I had a thought, but it got run over as it crossed my mind.
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