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14 posts • Page 1 of 1
I have basically stripped all the components of my 1975 centurion for my SS project.
The only part which i connot get of is the cranks! ... They are a much older style to what im used too.
They Have a little screw wich had a nut on the end which i have removed. DO i have to hit the actual bolt out ?
I would post some pictures but not past the time peroid !
Any tips much apreciated!
does it look like one of these?
If so, then yes you have to tap out the cotter pin with a hammer, it may be jammed in quite hard, as they are tappered, and probably haven't been moved for many years.
Ah, old-old-old school...see Larks post about cotter pins.
MY RIDES: My Velospace Profile
These are the cranks in question......
Are you planning on re-using these cranks for the rebuild? or were you going to upgrade to some slightly more modern cranks?
I would suggest that you may want to avoid hitting the pin directly with a hammer if you want to re-use the cranks. Use a bit of hardwood in between, and also give it a good soak in WD-40 for a few days before you try to remove it.
On the other hand, if you don't plan on using those cranks, just bash away.
One thing how ever that you must do, is to rest the crank on a solid peice of wood, right beside the pin. That way, when you hit the pin, you won't be transfering any shock or force etc..... into the frame.
Hey thanks mate !
I dont plan on re using these cranks they are in a bad way only think im re using is the frame and the drops..
One more thing im hitting the part of the pin that is sticking out ? Is that right ? (just want to be sure i dont make things worse !)
If the part thats sticking out is threaded, then yes, thats what you need to be hitting.
IF you don't think you can budge it.... you could also just cut the bottom bracket axle. you don't want to use an angle grinder for this, they are too much for a bike.....a hacksaw with a 32tpi blade will do, it is hardened steel, so take your time if you go down this path.
Ahh, i had to remove cotter pins from two bikes yesterday.
A hammer worked perfectly. The first one i stuffed up a bit though, as i had to hit it a few times with the hammer, so i ended up bending the thread end of the pin a little. Afer that i learnt if you just give it one solid whack with the hammer it comes out perfectly and can be re-used.
I just read Sheldon Brown's info and it was spot on with my experiences yesterday.
It can also be helpful if you leave the nut on the cotter, wind it to flush with the end. Sit a peice of hardwood on the nut, and give it one good whack with your hammer. Usually works quite well.
A long time sinceI worked with cotter pins now. But I had them on my old tourer for 3-4 years in the 70s, and worked a couple of jobs in bike shops and for an assembler in the early 80s. Glad to get away from the cotter pins
Riding bikes in traffic - what seems dangerous is usually safe; what seems safe is often more dangerous.
mmm cotter pin scars on your ankles..
14 posts • Page 1 of 1
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