Climbing Groupset for new bike
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Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby Patdys » Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:41 am
I currently ride an old azzuri primo with ultegra 53/39 and 23/11. Last year I rode 6000 km with 60 km of climb.
I can climb the Adelaide nasty hills with this- Checkers, Corkscrew, Sheoak, Woodlands etc- but it hurts. A lot.
My bike will be used for the Alpine Classic and Taupo enduro, I hope. (next long term goals). I am better at distance and hills than speed.
I thought I would keep the gearing the same on the new beast, which will be lighter, more comfortable and have a Sram red groupset. I like the smoothness of the change with the 'tighter' cluster. My question is, should I consider a 12/27 cluster or compact crank? I currently have the power to cope with steep hills, although it really hurts. Would a lower granny gear help?
My gut feeling is that if it aint broke, don't fix it. What do ya reckon?
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby hartleymartin » Fri Feb 19, 2010 10:47 am
http://raleightwenty.webs.com - the top web resource for the Raleigh Twenty
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby bongo » Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:21 am
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby biker jk » Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:34 am
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby Patdys » Fri Feb 19, 2010 11:51 am
I could perceive the compact crank will give me a lower range generally, whilst maintaining 'smoothness in changing' within the cluster. I guess that would lean me towards a compact crank. The downside being you lose power through the entire cluster I guess.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby drubie » Fri Feb 19, 2010 4:39 pm
You don't necessarily "lose power" but if you're a chugger rather than a spinner, you might lose some speed on the flats with a compact.Patdys wrote:We have votes for both a compact crank and a wider spread across the cluster.
I could perceive the compact crank will give me a lower range generally, whilst maintaining 'smoothness in changing' within the cluster. I guess that would lean me towards a compact crank. The downside being you lose power through the entire cluster I guess.
Compromise might be a compact crank with slightly larger chain rings - say a 52 instead of the 50 and a 38 instead of the 34. FSA do some sets like that.
I think the 28 rears are more designed for touring/tandems than for a road bike.
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby PHL » Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:28 pm
Easy enough to calculate; you lose 8%. Actually a bigger issue for spinners, as it's something like .8m development per rev, so at 100 rpm, it would be 80m, whereas at say 50rpm, it would be 40m.drubie wrote:You don't necessarily "lose power" but if you're a chugger rather than a spinner, you might lose some speed on the flats with a compact.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby ausrandoman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:13 pm
I did the last Taupo Enduro and the ACE 250 (finished mid-field). Like you, I'm better at endurance than speed. I used a 24/38/48 triple chainwheel. No strain, no pain, no stress. You're obviously stronger than me, so a bog-standard 30 tooth inner ring would probably be low enough and you can keep the nice close ratios of the 11-23.Patdys wrote:
My bike will be used for the Alpine Classic and Taupo enduro, I hope. (next long term goals). I am better at distance and hills than speed.
If smoothness changing across the cassette is a concern, a triple is the winner: you'd mostly be on the middle ring. I found that a compact double involved too much double shifting.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby ausrandoman » Sun Feb 21, 2010 10:17 pm
What does that mean? Why would you "lose power"? Where would it go? Please do not interpret this as an argument: I am genuinely mystified.Patdys wrote:The downside being you lose power through the entire cluster I guess.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby Patdys » Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:04 pm
The confusion is probably due to me still learning the jargon. And besides this is only a five minute argument and you have paid for the full half hour.ausrandoman wrote:What does that mean? Why would you "lose power"? Where would it go? Please do not interpret this as an argument: I am genuinely mystified.Patdys wrote:The downside being you lose power through the entire cluster I guess.
What I meant was that with a smaller chain ring, every gear on the cluster, would have the net cost/benefit of that smaller chain ring. Whereas widening the ratios of the cluster itself would only affect the gears at the top and bottom of the cluster that are actually outside the current utilised range.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby rkelsen » Mon Feb 22, 2010 1:36 pm
This will give you a much lower gear set for climbing, while enabling you to maintain you higher gears too.
I recently went from a double (52/42) to 52/42/28, keeping the same cassette. I had to swap the derailleurs too, but now I have a 28/26 low gear which is brilliant for climbing steeper hills. Top gear for me is 52/13, which is kinda low by modern standards but still too hard for me to push on the flat. At 120 rpm, this gear is enough to get to 60km/h which is more than fast enough for me. Upgrading the "top end" would be as easy as swapping the large chainring or buying a cassette which has an 11 or 12 tooth top gear.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby cooperplace » Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:49 pm
ausrandoman wrote:I did the last Taupo Enduro and the ACE 250 (finished mid-field). Like you, I'm better at endurance than speed. I used a 24/38/48 triple chainwheel. No strain, no pain, no stress. You're obviously stronger than me, so a bog-standard 30 tooth inner ring would probably be low enough and you can keep the nice close ratios of the 11-23.Patdys wrote:
My bike will be used for the Alpine Classic and Taupo enduro, I hope. (next long term goals). I am better at distance and hills than speed.
If smoothness changing across the cassette is a concern, a triple is the winner: you'd mostly be on the middle ring. I found that a compact double involved too much double shifting.
well that's interesting. I ride exactly the same roads in the Adelaide Hills. I like climbing. I had a 34/50 and 12 to 30 on my old bike, and thought I wanted lower when I got a new bike, so I got a triple campag 30/39/53 and 12 to 28 on the rear. It was a royal pain in the neck because the small on the front was too low and I always found myself changing front & rear. So I threw away the expensive campag and put the cheap 9 speed Sora 34/50 on, from my old bike, and I love it. Turns out I didn't need to go lower. And I'm much happier with a compact than a triple. I usually use small chainring for ascents, big for descents.
SO it depends on personal preference and perhaps on the derailleurs too.
Hope this helps.
Peter.
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby brockie2 » Sat Feb 27, 2010 7:52 pm
http://www.sram.com/news/sram-apex-wher ... -takes-you
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby Mulger bill » Sat Feb 27, 2010 9:53 pm
Thanks for that, investigating...brockie2 wrote:Check this out.
http://www.sram.com/news/sram-apex-wher ... -takes-you
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Re: Climbing Groupset for new bike
Postby sblack » Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:40 pm
I'm another triple user here. Mine is a 52/42/30 and 12-26 (9 speed). Personally I find the 12-26 a little more spaced out than I'd like and if I wasn't towing my son in a trailer up hills I'd be thinking of getting a smaller range on the back but at times when towing my son up the hill to home I start thinking something bigger on the back would be nicer so for now it's a reasonable compromise.cooperplace wrote:ausrandoman wrote:I did the last Taupo Enduro and the ACE 250 (finished mid-field). Like you, I'm better at endurance than speed. I used a 24/38/48 triple chainwheel. No strain, no pain, no stress. You're obviously stronger than me, so a bog-standard 30 tooth inner ring would probably be low enough and you can keep the nice close ratios of the 11-23.Patdys wrote:
My bike will be used for the Alpine Classic and Taupo enduro, I hope. (next long term goals). I am better at distance and hills than speed.
If smoothness changing across the cassette is a concern, a triple is the winner: you'd mostly be on the middle ring. I found that a compact double involved too much double shifting.
well that's interesting. I ride exactly the same roads in the Adelaide Hills. I like climbing. I had a 34/50 and 12 to 30 on my old bike, and thought I wanted lower when I got a new bike, so I got a triple campag 30/39/53 and 12 to 28 on the rear. It was a royal pain in the neck because the small on the front was too low and I always found myself changing front & rear. So I threw away the expensive campag and put the cheap 9 speed Sora 34/50 on, from my old bike, and I love it. Turns out I didn't need to go lower. And I'm much happier with a compact than a triple. I usually use small chainring for ascents, big for descents.
SO it depends on personal preference and perhaps on the derailleurs too.
Hope this helps.
Peter.
So to the OP, if you're already happy most of the time with 53/39 and 11-23 then maybe the option of 53/39/30 with 11-23 would be worth considering. It'll give you the gearing you're familiar and happy with now with the added option of the 30 for the tougher climbs and/or longer rides.
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