Adding a front disc to a road bike !! And Now Hydro!

[Mulger bill]

Agree with Nobody, it's SOP for BB discs.
Never thought of step 4 tho', gonna try it next time.

[hannos]

Recommend it to any person who is part handy, and rides in the rain.

After reading this thread I am very tempted to do this to my bike.

At least, after I get a second bike so I don't get disqualified from triathlons

[trailgumby]

Get rid of one to three and use a cable tie

1) Waste of a cable tie....

Get a releasable one.

[hannos]

Get rid of one to three and use a cable tie

1) Waste of a cable tie....

Get a releasable one.

or use a piece of string

[MichaelB]

Thanks for all the tips guys, will try them out if need be.

One other option that trumps string, tape, cvale tioes etc - use the 8yo kid at home, or if you are like cavebear2, use the missus


Go on hannos, do it !!! Can't use discs in Tri's ? Why not ?

[hannos]

Go on hannos, do it !!! Can't use discs in Tri's ? Why not ?

Well i'm not 100% sure of that but I wouldn't have expected it would be allowed. It isn't in racing (except cyclocross) so i'd assumed it isn't in tri's.

Besides, I'll be looking for a new bike soonish so I can setup my current bike more as a commuter.

[MichaelB]

....
4) Hold the caliper with your hand so it doesn't move in reference to the fork, then tighten the CPS bolts.

...

Given that you mention accuracy required to ensure the caliper doesn't move, (and speaking from never having done this), isn't it a bit harder to hold the caliper by hand vs taping/cable tieing etc that brakes on to achieve the optimal centering ?

Also, when backing off the pads after the above procedure, how many turns of the pad adjusters do you find that it requires before the idela positions is found ?

Cheers

From a happy disc user

[Robdog]

Go on hannos, do it !!! Can't use discs in Tri's ? Why not ?

Well i'm not 100% sure of that but I wouldn't have expected it would be allowed. It isn't in racing (except cyclocross) so i'd assumed it isn't in tri's.

Besides, I'll be looking for a new bike soonish so I can setup my current bike more as a commuter.

That and the aero losses wouldn't be worth the extra braking power I assume?

[hannos]

Go on hannos, do it !!! Can't use discs in Tri's ? Why not ?

Well i'm not 100% sure of that but I wouldn't have expected it would be allowed. It isn't in racing (except cyclocross) so i'd assumed it isn't in tri's.

Besides, I'll be looking for a new bike soonish so I can setup my current bike more as a commuter.

That and the aero losses wouldn't be worth the extra braking power I assume?

hah at my standard "aero losses" are not a factor

[Nobody]

Given that you mention accuracy required to ensure the caliper doesn't move, (and speaking from never having done this), isn't it a bit harder to hold the caliper by hand vs taping/cable tieing etc that brakes on to achieve the optimal centering ?

Using one hand to hold the caliper steady as you tighten with the other hand while watching for movement is easy enough. You can try other ways to hold the caliper, but as the tolerances are fairly tight, I'd say the process of taping or cable tying would introduce its own inaccuracies. However if you try it and find a better process, please let us know.

Also, when backing off the pads after the above procedure, how many turns of the pad adjusters do you find that it requires before the ideal positions is found?

Three. Depends on how much play you like in the lever. Don't get too hung up on it. I just keep adjusting them until I see enough light between the pads and the rotor while spinning the wheel. Plus mine are different to yours as mine are MTB specific with V brake drop bar levers.

From a happy disc user

Glad you've got the result you were looking for. I think in the years to come we will look back and wonder how we ever managed in the wet with rim brakes.

[The Womble]

PICS!

[MichaelB]

PICS!

Of what ? If you are talking about the bike and brakes installed, see p5.

Of me nekkid, then you are wierd ..... But I won't tell anyone

[The Womble]

Oh right page helps a tad

[jacks1071]

Hi jacks1071. Sounds good, but what is the axle crown length ?

I'd put my money up for one, so 39 to go ......


I'd have to measure it - with 700c wheels on my tandem and 28mm gator skins I still have sufficient clearance if that has any bearing on your question?

Sort of, yes. Pic's would be good too.

BTW, what does the N45 mean in you description of them ?

Not sure on the N45 - I cut and pasted the manufacturer's description?

Will take some more pics soon - the bike is on the trainer at Mum's as she's doing a bit herself as I wanted her to get a bit more bike-fit before we head back out on the road.

[MichaelB]

Well, another ride and even more confidence.

Last night went up Kensington Rd Lookout. Not particularly long, but steep as (the 1st bit isn't steep - 350m (AT) 7.2%, but the next 940m is at 14.1%). Due to the turns and nature of the road, have to ride the brakes most of the way down.

At the bottom stopped to see how hot the rotors had gotten Note to self : Believe the rotors get hot. Don't ruiin a set of gloves by trying to melt some of the material on there ....

They still braked really well, but faded a bit (still oodles of power) but in comparison with Salmon Kool Stops on the same descent got a bit grabby and faded even more. A few km later, everything was back as sweet as.

[jacks1071]

Well, another ride and even more confidence.

Last night went up Kensington Rd Lookout. Not particularly long, but steep as (the 1st bit isn't steep - 350m (AT) 7.2%, but the next 940m is at 14.1%). Due to the turns and nature of the road, have to ride the brakes most of the way down.

At the bottom stopped to see how hot the rotors had gotten Note to self : Believe the rotors get hot. Don't ruiin a set of gloves by trying to melt some of the material on there ....

They still braked really well, but faded a bit (still oodles of power) but in comparison with Salmon Kool Stops on the same descent got a bit grabby and faded even more. A few km later, everything was back as sweet as.

Be careful on those decents!! I know so many people who've crashed on them and its always big... I know you want to test the brakes out etc but be careful!

[MichaelB]

Be careful on those decents!! I know so many people who've crashed on them and its always big... I know you want to test the brakes out etc but be careful!

Don't worry, I was. Didn't go up the hill for brake testing, was a "Checkers Hill training" type ride (i.e. train to get my lard ar$e up a short but really steep hill without having to stop ) for the TdU 2011.

Was pleased with the overall result though.

[Mulger bill]

Note to self : Believe the rotors get hot. Don't ruiin a set of gloves by trying to melt some of the material on there ....

Mwahahaha Welcome to that club mate

[Nobody]

Note to self : Believe the rotors get hot. Don't ruiin a set of gloves by trying to melt some of the material on there ....

Mwahahaha Welcome to that club mate

Actually it is amazing how little heat transfer stainless steel has. Next time your brakes get hot, try touching on of the inner parts of the disk and slowly move your finger out. You may be surprised how close you get to the pad area before it suddenly gets hot (expect to get burnt too).

[jacks1071]

Be careful on those decents!! I know so many people who've crashed on them and its always big... I know you want to test the brakes out etc but be careful!

Don't worry, I was. Didn't go up the hill for brake testing, was a "Checkers Hill training" type ride (i.e. train to get my lard ar$e up a short but really steep hill without having to stop ) for the TdU 2011.

Was pleased with the overall result though.

Checkers is a good one - I did it 3 times at TDU 2010 with an 39/23 (slowly..) - I''m brining a 27 with me next year!! If you can get up that one without stopping then you're doing alright.

[cooperplace]

I'm 100% with Michael on this one. My BB7 is great wet or dry, very easy to modulate and control. I ride in hills all the time, and coming down from Mt Lofty in the drizzle and waiting a second or 2 for the calipers to dry the rim is no fun. It hasn't shaken the QRs loose, (I will keep an eye on this) and I think it's the best thing I've done to my bike. And the Ti XACD fork rides beautifully.

Overall I highly recommend a disc on the front, but it's a lot of stuffing around to get it all together. I hope it becomes more mainstream to give more fork/disc/wheel/hub etc. choices.

Peter

[MichaelB]

Another ride and another quick update.

Up & down through the hills on the w/end with no dramas and no howling of the discs during braking. The 'whirring sound' is a bit wierd to get used to, but not an issue.

I did notice that the front QR had come a bit loose partway through the ride, so will now do a tyre press check & QR check before each ride.

Any idea as to why they do come loose (for some) ?

.....
Overall I highly recommend a disc on the front, but it's a lot of stuffing around to get it all together. I hope it becomes more mainstream to give more fork/disc/wheel/hub etc. choices.

Peter

I agree with Peter 100%. It's the 2nd best thing I've done on my bike (1st was the Brooks saddle), and should have done it ages ago.

Hopefully experiences like Peter's & mine (and those like Nobody et al) will help get others on the bandwagon.

Ooroo

[Nobody]

Conventional wisdom has it that you wouldn’t want disc brakes on a tourer. Well, I think conventional wisdom is wrong. No cantilever brake I’ve ever used comes remotely close to giving the same kind of confidence the Avid BB7’s that come on this bike give you. They are simply awesome. And as they are cable operated, you shouldn’t come across too many problems you can’t deal with, as long as you’re careful with the rotor... Like all discs they need a little bedding in, so if you don’t get awesomeness from the word go, just give it a few miles.

http://road.cc/content/review/24541-kona-sutra

[rkelsen]

Any idea as to why they do come loose (for some) ?

http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/

[MichaelB]

Any idea as to why they do come loose (for some) ?

http://www.ne.jp/asahi/julesandjames/home/disk_and_quick_release/

Cheers for that. I'll print it out and have a good read.

Apart from making a new mount to put the caliper on the front of the fork, what is the solution .....

Was even thinking about some method of lockwiring, but will read the article and have a ponder, and check it before each ride .....