10 Speed 105 Question

[avroncotton]

On my way home from my ride today I heard a big rattling coming from my back wheel. Upon inspection I found that the cassette was loose, but the locking ring was done up. I dismantled it in the shed this afternoon and cleaned it, put it back together and there is about 1.5mm of play on all the cogs. The biggest three cogs are in a fixed cluster, but I'm wondering if there should be a spacer between it and the wheel and that has come off on todays ride.

Any info would be gladly accepted

Tony

P.S. 110 kms in the rain today, quite proud of myself

[drubie]

but I'm wondering if there should be a spacer between it and the wheel and that has come off on todays ride.
...
P.S. 110 kms in the rain today, quite proud of myself

Nice work!

On the lockring - add more tightness. If the cogs are rattling it isn't done up. There is no wider cassette body than the Shimano 10 speed one, so spacers shouldn't be required unless one has gone missing from the middle somewhere.

[greyhoundtom]

I know I’m a nooby and I don’t wish to go against the advice of one of the most knowledgeable members of this forum but I run a 105 cassette on my bike and have had to remove and replace it a few times, however, yes for a 10 speed there is a 1.5 mm washer that goes on first before the cassette.

To the best of my knowledge that washer is not required when you fit a nine speed cassette.

[drubie]

To the best of my knowledge that washer is not required when you fit a nine speed cassette.

The only shimano-esque bit of gear I have is a SRAM 8 speed cassette, so I wouldn't be surprised to be wrong.

Sheldon says the 10 speed is wider than the 9 but uses the same body, the difference being an overhang (http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.shtml)

It seems odd though - where did the washer go if it is missing? And why does the 9 speed require it? I was under the impression that 7 speeds needed an extra spacer but the clever clogs at shimano got their 8-10 speed stuff 100% compatible.

[greyhoundtom]

The first time I took off the rear cassette was when I stupidly used a spray on chain oil that was so thick it clogged everything up including heaps of gunk in between the cassette sprockets that sprayed everywhere all over the bike frame.

Cleaned everything but somehow lost the thin stainless steel washer as I did the job in the backyard on the grass, put it all back but no matter what I did I could not tighten the cassette enough.

One hour later after taking the cassette off and putting it back three times, I finally found the washer in the grass by accident, put that on first and the whole thing did up straight and nice and tight.

Like I said I’m a noob

[Robdog]

All I've got is a paper thin (and razor sharp!) metal ring 'washer' that goes between the lockring and the smallest cog. Had a similar problem when I was doing a bit of serious cleaning the other day - turns out the freehub body on my DA 7801 wheels had come loose allowing ~5mm of play. This is despite me never having touched the securing bolt at all. Leaves me a little concerned

[avroncotton]

Been having a look on the Shimano site and the diagram does show a spacer between the largest sprocket and the spokes. I can only imagine that that has broken somehow and has dropped off on my ride. Will have to get another come Monday.

Thanks for all your replies

Tony

[DavidL]

Been having a look on the Shimano site and the diagram does show a spacer between the largest sprocket and the spokes. I can only imagine that that has broken somehow and has dropped off on my ride. Will have to get another come Monday.

Tony,

I put a 6700 group on my wifes bike last month and the 10-speed cassette didn't come with the extra 1.5mm spacer (came from c r c). I happened to have another wheelset here with the spacer on it so I got out of jail for free, but it is a steel spacer and wouldn't have broken.

Possible that this spacer is an extra you have to get if your putting the cassette on a non-10-speed specific hub.

- David.

[twizzle]

All I've got is a paper thin (and razor sharp!) metal ring 'washer' that goes between the lockring and the smallest cog. Had a similar problem when I was doing a bit of serious cleaning the other day - turns out the freehub body on my DA 7801 wheels had come loose allowing ~5mm of play. This is despite me never having touched the securing bolt at all. Leaves me a little concerned

You should have a spacer behind the cassette as well unless it is a 10-speed specific hub.

[avroncotton]

Thanks everyone.

Found the problem. I popped a spoke that day as well. Took it to the LBS and when I went back in Monday morning, hey presto: the spacer was sitting their on the bench. In their haste to replace the cassette they forgot to put the spacer back on first. Doh!

Tony

[Robdog]

All I've got is a paper thin (and razor sharp!) metal ring 'washer' that goes between the lockring and the smallest cog. Had a similar problem when I was doing a bit of serious cleaning the other day - turns out the freehub body on my DA 7801 wheels had come loose allowing ~5mm of play. This is despite me never having touched the securing bolt at all. Leaves me a little concerned

You should have a spacer behind the cassette as well unless it is a 10-speed specific hub.

Nope... I've got a plastic thing that sits underneath the nipples, but doesn't infringe on the cassette at all (tubeless wheels, so the nipples are at the hub), and I'm pretty sure it's not 10spd specific. Once the lockring is done up nice and tight there's no movement at all so I dunno what the go is

[twizzle]

All I've got is a paper thin (and razor sharp!) metal ring 'washer' that goes between the lockring and the smallest cog. Had a similar problem when I was doing a bit of serious cleaning the other day - turns out the freehub body on my DA 7801 wheels had come loose allowing ~5mm of play. This is despite me never having touched the securing bolt at all. Leaves me a little concerned

You should have a spacer behind the cassette as well unless it is a 10-speed specific hub.

Nope... I've got a plastic thing that sits underneath the nipples, but doesn't infringe on the cassette at all (tubeless wheels, so the nipples are at the hub), and I'm pretty sure it's not 10spd specific. Once the lockring is done up nice and tight there's no movement at all so I dunno what the go is

A little bit of research says the WH-7801's don't have a spacer (must be 10-speed only), while the WH-7801-SL require the spacer.

[Robdog]

They are SL's (tubeless) I'll have to look into it

[twizzle]

They are SL's (tubeless) I'll have to look into it

Bugger - some of the SL's don't need the spacer. Have a look in here... good luck picking your specific wheel!

Edit: Nope, I take it back, I must have looked at the 7850-SL tech doc by accident, AFAIK tell (now I've partly solved my problem opening PDF's by killing broswer integration ) the 7801's are 10-speed only and don't need the spacer.

[hannos]

The biggest three cogs are in a fixed cluster, but I'm wondering if there should be a spacer between it and the wheel and that has come off on todays ride.

Any info would be gladly accepted

Tony

P.S. 110 kms in the rain today, quite proud of myself

Disclaimer: I havent read the entire thread yet.

I have 105 on my old commuter and I've only yesterday re-assembled it afte a good clean. Mine does have a spacer about that size between the biggest 3-cog cluster and the wheel.

[waynohh]

Thanks everyone.

Found the problem. I popped a spoke that day as well. Took it to the LBS and when I went back in Monday morning, hey presto: the spacer was sitting their on the bench. In their haste to replace the cassette they forgot to put the spacer back on first. Doh!

Tony

That's why I never let bike shops work on my bike.

[master6]

Thanks everyone.

Found the problem. I popped a spoke that day as well. Took it to the LBS and when I went back in Monday morning, hey presto: the spacer was sitting their on the bench. In their haste to replace the cassette they forgot to put the spacer back on first. Doh!

Tony

That's why I never let bike shops work on my bike.

Everyone makes mistakes, however you can do it yourself and learn free of charge. I have not had a bike shop work on my bike in 54 years of cycling. Today there is so much information available via forums and other internet material that will enable you to do your own work, and get to know how your bike works. Tools are a great investment. This is not brain surgery. Many LBS mechanics are very good at what they do, and have to know about a wide range of products, however they are not exactly in the genius category. You can do the job, fix it 24/7 if you stuffit up, save money, and have the satisfaction of the achievement. No need to be a mechanical limpwrist.