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How hard is it to change the inner tube?

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:29 am
by peter
Yeah, as the title says. I was about to go for a ride, noticed a flat front tyre which was strange as it was fine last week. Pumping more air doesn't help, so looks like a punctured tube.

This means I have to visit the LBS to get a new tube and some levers, but should I just ask them to do it? I've read how-to on the web but never done it before, I thought it would be beneficial to be able to do this kind of thing.

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 10:37 am
by s-s-a
Oh yes this is something you need to learn. And you need to carry a spare tube and levers and pump while riding.

Park Tools have a fabulous how-to section on their website here is the section on tyre and inner tube replacement.

Steph

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:11 am
by sogood
It's not a difficult procedure and practice makes perfect. Going to the LBS each time for tube repair would kill the fun of cycling. Learn it yourself.

One more thing, learn to patch your tubes and be good to the environment.

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 2:32 pm
by peter
My LBS showed me how to do it, it wasn't too bad.

Yeah I will be patching the old tube so I have a spare one.

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 4:22 pm
by Halfanewb
Yea carrying a basic flat kit is the way to go, include a small square of sandpaper and a bit of chalk.

Spare tube for the first flat and a puncture repair kit for that second flat when you find after pumping the new tube up that the , wire, glass, nail etc is still in the tire or in your hurry to get the tire inflated you have ripped the valve stem away from the tube :)

For those of us who ride light tires a spare $5 note is handy too. If the sidewall of the tire gets a slice in it that will plug the hole long enough to get you home.

One tip is to mount your tires on the wheels with the tire decal starting at the valve stem this way when you find the puncture on the tube you will know roughly where on the tire you need to look for embedded objects or a hole.

Happy trails :)

Posted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 11:16 pm
by stryker84
[quote="sogood"]It's not a difficult procedure and practice makes perfect. Going to the LBS each time for tube repair would kill the fun of cycling.[quote]
Plus it's expensive to boot! Got caught out on one of my early rides without a pump AND spare tube/patch. Bit the bullet and pulled into a nearby LBS, $20 later...

Reminds me, I need to change my rear tube, and check the tyre/rim while I'm at it. I thought I did that last time, but the new tube went flat within the week, so probably some tiny slowleak-causing nasty in there somewhere...

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:08 pm
by X-wing
Neat tip Halfa, I'll add that into my 'wise things to think about on the side of the road' log.

cheers!

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:46 pm
by s-s-a
One tip is to mount your tires on the wheels with the tire decal starting at the valve stem this way when you find the puncture on the tube you will know roughly where on the tire you need to look for embedded objects or a hole.


I always mount my tyres with the valve stem in the middle of the tyre label. A LBS showed me this trick.

I also never use the locking rings or caps on my Presta valves.

Steph

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 3:58 pm
by sogood
s-s-a wrote:I also never use the locking rings or caps on my Presta valves.

Question is, is there a value for keeping the cap on? Dirt? Mud?

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 4:58 pm
by s-s-a
If I used Schrader valves I would put the cap on if there was a chance of mud (I have put the caps on my daughter's bike).

But with Presta valves any mud just cakes on the outside and is easy to get rid of. The only use I have for the caps is on my spare tubes so that the valve doesn't rub and make a hole.

Steph

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:14 pm
by sogood
s-s-a wrote:But with Presta valves any mud just cakes on the outside and is easy to get rid of. The only use I have for the caps is on my spare tubes so that the valve doesn't rub and make a hole.

Hehe... Maybe the fact that I keep those caps on can de-classify me as a weight weenie. :D

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:58 pm
by europa
The plastic cap can also protect that wee pin in the valve. Mud might flick off easily but you'll never get it completely clean and that dirt goes into the valve when you pump it up. I can't really see an argument for not having the cap, though the arguments for them aren't that strong either as you've shown by not using the caps.

The lock nuts are an interesting one - something much blamed for valve failures. I don't use them either, but mainly because I've changed to Michelin tubes which don't have them to start with.

Richard

Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 11:31 pm
by sogood
europa wrote:The lock nuts are an interesting one - something much blamed for valve failures. I don't use them either, but mainly because I've changed to Michelin tubes which don't have them to start with.

My floor pump has a habit of bending them. Yet again, I am not sure if it's the pump or me that's bending them. :roll:

Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 8:43 am
by Kid_Carbine
It's not the pump.

I always run caps on my valves. It's not gluggy mud that's the problem, but muddy water. Centrifugal force in a rotating wheel means that the water goes to the lowest point [deep inside the valve] & even if it dries, the dirt is still in there ready to do it's insideous work the next time a pump is fitted.

I have also seen damaged pins in Presta valves, but if caps are used, it is protected. [I use metal caps on both Presta & Woods valves]

Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 6:57 pm
by Mulger bill
Woods valves? :?

Where do you score metal Presta caps please Kid?

Shaun

Posted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:03 pm
by Kid_Carbine
Woods valve, bicycle valve, Dunlop valve. It's what was in use in bike tubes for about 90 years before the car valve [Schrader] replaced it in general use. It uses the same thread as the Presta valve but is cut off square at the top & uses a much shorter cap.

The metal caps were sourced from bike shops all over the SE quarter of NSW back in the early 80's & they had been discontinued & replaced with plastic long before that. I keep a private stash for future use, but keep in mind that they are appropriate for the much earlier bikes that I have.
Sheldon Brown link to valve page.

About the only place I have seen any recently was on eBay.

This is a new tube with a Woods valve & metal cap. This particular one was made for use in a Westwood type rim as the metal flange at the base is shaped to support the valve in the well of this particular rim shape.

Image

Below you will find, left to right a metal presta valve cap, next, a Woods valve without the surgical tubing plus the lock ring & standard metal cap.
On the right is a Woods valve with surgical tubing in place, making it serviceable. If you have ever bought a puncture repair outfit & found these short pieces of tubing in them, then you now know what they're for.
The captive metal cap was just another type.

Image

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 12:01 am
by mikesbytes
Are Woods / Dunlop valves still being used?

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 12:07 am
by Mulger bill
Dunlop valves :idea: Had those on me first three bikes as a kid, Thanks Kid :)
Pity about the metal cap availability, your fleet deserves them, will suss out ebay.

Shaun

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 12:31 am
by Kid_Carbine
mikesbytes wrote:Are Woods / Dunlop valves still being used?

Well I still use them, so I guess the answer is yes.

EDIT.
OK, I'm not well, bad RTI & bizarre shoulder injury means I am seriously sleep deprived, so I didn't pick up on what I suspect that you mean.
I guess you mean, .... are they still sold new in Australia [or elsewhere]

No, ... new tubes with Woods valves are not readily available through the trade in Australia, although a new [old stock] one shows up in old bike shops on rare occasions. Many of these tubes are made of actual rubber & these eventually deteriorate to the point where they just break up in your hands, but the newer ones made from more modern synthetic materials will last for many years yet.
My last red rubber one [made untill the late 30's] has gone to god & was disposed of thoughtfully about a while ago.

I hear tell that the Woods valves are still being used in some Asian countries, but have no way to verify that.

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 5:43 am
by sogood
Kid_Carbine wrote:Well I still use them, so I guess the answer is yes.

Forget those phoney steel bike riders. You are the true traditionalist! :shock:

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 4:01 pm
by Kid_Carbine
Thanks, I'll take that as a compliment. [I hope] LOL
Others might say that I'm too stupid to get with the times, but I like your version better.

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 5:08 pm
by toolonglegs
Kid_Carbine wrote:
Image

My wife walked past me looking at these things (that i can remember from 10 speed days) and accussed me of looking at torture instruments...no dear they are from a bike :roll:

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 6:51 pm
by 531db
Woods valves were still in use in India the early 1990's and afaik are in use there today on those 28" heavy roadster bikes.

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 9:18 pm
by europa
Remember trying to scrape perished rubber off those old valves? :?

Richard

Posted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 11:31 pm
by mikeg
I used a version of the Woods Valve that did not use the rubber tube. worked sort of like the car valves and was a lot easier to get air into the tyre than the rubber versions.

Image

Mike