My Europa...it WANTS to live.
- Birdman
- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:25 am
- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:44 pm
So why wont it fit like it previously did???
I have a spacer and a washer left over after i have put the whole bike back together...Richard said that was normal...maybe it is a spacer for the wheel.
I am dropping it off to a now defunct bike shop, he is going to respoke my front wheel and have a look at the rear for me. Hope it doesn't cost me too much.
Mitch.
Until next time...
- Birdman
- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:25 am
- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Wed Jan 16, 2008 11:47 am
No he is a good decent bloke, he had to close the shop because the complex was doing reno and when they reopened the rent would be too high. So he now does little jobs from home and works as an electrician. So, nothing to worry about.j.r.hawkins wrote:Erm, reading that I think I'd be more concerned about getting it back.Birdman wrote:I am dropping it off to a now defunct bike shop, he is going to respoke my front wheel and have a look at the rear for me. Hope it doesn't cost me too much.
Mitch.
Until next time...
- Birdman
- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:25 am
- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:53 am
I have another problem also. I have read the book i won from this site, the sutherlands book and the barnetts book that tallywhacker found. I want to know how to align my handlebars with my forks. I pulled it all apart (but couldn't get the forks out of the frame) but to no avail.
Does anyone know how this is done???
Mitch.
Until next time...
- europa
- Posts: 7334
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- Location: southern end of Adelaide - home of hills, fixies and drop bears
- woteva
- Posts: 51
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- Location: Campbelltown, S.A.
Postby woteva » Thu Jan 17, 2008 11:57 am
The information that you are after is in one of the books that you can download.
Try chapter 12 of Illustrated Bicycle Maintenance, that should tell you all you need to know.
A.
1991 Shogun Ninja (105)
2012 Mongoose Kos Kruiser
1984 Repco Nishiki Tri-A
1991 Repco Victory Tri-A
Bridgestone T500
Koga Miyata Prologue
Repco Superlite X2
- Birdman
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- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Thu Jan 17, 2008 4:18 pm
Thanks A...since Richard is being a twat cause he cant fill out a standard enrollment form (pokes his tongue out ).woteva wrote:Hi Birdman
The information that you are after is in one of the books that you can download.
Try chapter 12 of Illustrated Bicycle Maintenance, that should tell you all you need to know.
A.
Mitch.
Until next time...
-
- Posts: 590
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Postby inaminit » Thu Jan 17, 2008 6:02 pm
Brilliant....I laughed and laughed and laughed!europa wrote:Yes, but we're not going to tell you until you've sacrificed a goat to the god, HorusBirdman wrote:Does anyone know how this is done???
Richard
08 Avanti Quantum Team
LeMond Tourmalet
Giant Kronos
Trek 4300 MTB
- Birdman
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- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:12 pm
Pretty interesting stuff.
Europa Cycles and Pulteney St Cycles, Adelaide SA
by Frank Kovacs
Elan was Pulteney Street Cycles own brand from around 1986 until around 1993 when they ceased trading in South Australia. Pulteney St. Cycles were the trading name for Abeni Corp. Australia, previously trading as Europa Cycles, at Morphett Street Adelaide, from around 1978 to 1985. In between the two moves, they were located in a small shop on Pulteney Street, near the south east corner of Rundle Street, for about a year, trading as Pulteney Street Cycles. The Abeni, Europa, & Elan, were quality lightweight steel racing frames built in-house in Australia, by Abeni. These frames usually used Reynolds 531 tubing, and were custom built, generally equipped with quality European parts such as Ofmega, & Campagnolo Gran Sport, Triomph & Victory, with the Elan, being the latest incarnation, more likely to be equipped with Shimano. These components were also equipped to Italian made Technotrat frames with Falk CroMoly tubing, that continued to be marketed as Europa, alongside Elan, when they moved to Pulteney Street. They were the largest retailer of new Colnago frames & Campagnolo equipment, in Adelaide, and always had a large amount of stock on show, which made them a very interesting shop to visit.
I think i got onto a good bike here. Now from my little to no experience, isn't Reynolds531 the good stuff???
Anyway when i get it back from having the wheels trued ill have a look and see if it has anything about what it is made of on it. There was actually a phone number on the seat tube Europa Cycles ...blah blah. I'll see if i can take a picture of the sticker (might try and salvage it if i get it resprayed).
Mitch.
Until next time...
- Kid_Carbine
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Postby Kid_Carbine » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:06 pm
Some people have a favorite brand or favorite type of bike, favorite era, or even a favorite material from which they are made.
Within these groups you will find that some have more fans than others & some are better at promoting their preferences.
As for me, I'm completely neutral.
[gag, guffaw, choke, gasp while gripping sides & rolling on floor laughing]
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
-
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Postby idleflow » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:44 pm
[gag, guffaw, choke, gasp while gripping sides & rolling on floor laughing]
- Birdman
- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:25 am
- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Fri Jan 25, 2008 2:30 pm
He seems it odd and has never heard of someone picking a bike for its material and structural stability. He has now.
Mitch.
Until next time...
- Kid_Carbine
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Postby Kid_Carbine » Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:43 pm
It's not the brand name per se' that identifies a good'un from the rest but the specs. Making bikes is simply a business like any other & all manufacturers try to cover the market so they offer basic, low cost entry level machines where low price takes precedence over low weight & precision high quality, as well as machines that start to approach the stellar levels of custom built machinery, but at a competitive price. Just about everything in between is also covered & in some cases, the good quality frame is spec'd down to a price, or spec'd up to cover a higher segment of the market.idleflow wrote:is that all.. reason i asked is because my dad has one in his garage, its been sitting there for years and years... he asked if i wanted it but i guess if it ain't that special i can tell him to include it in his tip list.
A very early example of this was the Malvern Star 5 Star which, while being the premium production frame, could be bought with components that were one step removed from a basic roadster.
These bikes, & their more modern day equivalents are great candidates for projects since the basic foundation, the frame, is the one high quality part that you must have in order to end up with a great finished product.
Europa, along with many others would have done just this, with medium & better quality frames available in cheaper variants to fill a position in the market place. If you know just which bike models had the better frames you can either find one & restore/ride it, or use it as the foundation of a custom built special.
My personal bias is toward bikes from Australian manufacturers, often bespoke manufacturers, where the frame was actually built here, sometimes by independent frame builders as a sub let job.
My preference is for pre 1980's, with non Japanese/Chinese/Taiwanese components & Europa doesn't really fit into this profile for me, so I can afford to be cheeky about these & many others.
In reality, I am probably one of the more biased, bigoted, snobbish & elitist members in this forum when it comes to my favourite bikes & bike components, but you'd never notice from my rantings, ... errr, ummm, I mean, my writings.
So don't reject the Europa in your fathers shed just because it has a particular name on the frame. If you reject it, then do so because it doesn't fit the profile of what it is that you are looking for, ... but if it does fit the profile, then embrace it with both arms.
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
- europa
- Posts: 7334
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- Location: southern end of Adelaide - home of hills, fixies and drop bears
Postby europa » Fri Jan 25, 2008 8:16 pm
Mitch and I own themidleflow wrote:excuse the ignorance but can someone please tell me what makes the europa such a special machine?
They're special because they were an Australian brand. Some were made here, some were mass produced frames that were rebadged and sold here. In either case, they are special because they are part of Australia's cycling history.
For an answer on where they fit in Australia's hierachy, may I remind you that Mitch and I own one and for us, what else matters
Richard
- Birdman
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My Europa...it is definitely TRYING to live !
Postby Birdman » Thu Apr 03, 2008 9:34 am
I am trying to finish my Europa but for some reason the chainring to the cassette has an odd angle. Something seems out a little.
The spacing of the rear forks is the right size for the gearing but it as if it is moved out of symmetry frmo the front half by atleast 5cm??? As if it looks like this [ y ] instead of this [ Y ]. Silly thing.
Considering taking it to my LBS to have them finish it???
The reason i found it was i had it all done and was setting my limits for the RD and FD and just sounded REALLY REALLY clunky in the FD (rubbing on the cage instead of a smooth line), so i had a look and voula it is F*#ked up. Should i attempt it meself?
Anyone experienced this.
Mitch.
Until next time...
Postby MountGower » Fri Apr 04, 2008 4:42 pm
I can only do what anyone else can and that's guess. If there are spacers, you may have them on the wrong side. Check the line of the rear wheel. Just because the front of the rear wheel is centre of the stays behind the bottom bracket, doesn't mean that the wheel is straight. It could be well out to the off side at the back.
Also, assuming on an old bike you have cup and cone type rear hubs, you may not have the axel centred propperly. When I remove an axel I only unlock one cone so the other one remains where it was. When I reassemble, it's a case of just setting the bearings by adjusting up the side I removed.
If the axel or spacers have been removed when the wheel has been taken off, I may be on to something, but I also may not be.
- Andrew Grace
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- Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2008 11:36 pm
- Location: Beaudesert, Qld
Re: My Europa...it is definitely TRYING to live !
Postby Andrew Grace » Sat Apr 05, 2008 10:50 pm
5cm is a massive figure to be out by, or do you mean it's 5mm?Birdman wrote:
The spacing of the rear forks is the right size for the gearing but it as if it is moved out of symmetry frmo the front half by atleast 5cm??? As if it looks like this [ y ] instead of this [ Y ]. Silly thing.
Considering taking it to my LBS to have them finish it???
Mitch.
When I spaced my rear forks, I set each side individually, but I started with a straight frame, so it was easy.
I'd probably take it to someone to get it straight if indeed that is the problem, it maybe wheelspacing like MG said.
- Birdman
- Posts: 1704
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:25 am
- Location: Rutherford, Maitland, NSW....god's country
Postby Birdman » Mon Apr 07, 2008 4:43 pm
I don't think i have removed the cup/cones completely from each axle yet so....who knows. I will have to find time to have a look at it on ...wednesday . If i can even find time then.
Thankyou again. It is hard to get things done quickly without Richard hovering over the site like the old days...no offence to anyone else.
Mitch.
Until next time...
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