From most threadless headsets I have come across, you can take your stem off, flip it, add/remove spacers, change to a different length/rise
stem, all without steerer bearings coming loose (they usually have a split taper sleeve which tends to lock it all together a bit). You can do all this while out on the road, on tour, commuting, with the kids, shopping, in the lounge room, bleedin heck... even on your trainer if need be
, all with one or two allen/hex keys that you can carry in your back pocket (along with the spare stem
)! How convenient
is that for getting your 'set-up' right?
I have never had a problem with getting threadless headset bearings adjusted properly, on bottom end or top end bikes. It is simple and quick. The only problem I have experienced was when buying a new MTB back in '95 from a reputable
inner Melb bike shop, and the dufus shop owner
thought he was tightening up a quill stem!
One brand new pitted headset! No wonder I do most of my own bike work.
Admittedly, most threaded headsets I've encountered have been on second hand or lower end bikes, and these have nearly always been problems to keep tightened, especially without the right tools. Threads get damaged when ridden loose, then you can seldom get them to stay adjusted/tightened properly again. Most bike riders I know
carry the basic allen/hex key set on them.
So you are in a group ride. You notice two riding companions headsets are loose. One threaded, one threadless. Which one are you likely to be able to adjust on the spot
Horses for courses I guess