Tubeless Road Trial
Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 4:16 pm
Well it is done.I am tubeless front and rear.
Front is on a Kysrium SL wheel (with no spoke holes in the rim)
Rear is on Dura-Ace wheel (with holes)
First time fitting on Saturday night was a messy disaster.Mainly because the rear rim which I started with had a enlarged hole due to previous owner being a bit rough.So the valve wouldn't seal and eventually it pulled into the rim as the hole was a touch too large to get a seal.So after 5 canisters,soapy water everywhere and a very sweaty me a gave up on that and decided to skip the DuraAce front wheel and take the easy option of a Ksyrium front wheel with no spoke holes to seal.Just a matter of installing the vavle...not too tight.Putting one side of the tyre on,soaping the bead up really well.Then installing 3/4 the other bead (I did all this while the wheel was in a mag trainer for obvious reason about to be explained).Then turned the wheel around so that the still to be fitted bead was at the top and then poured in the Stans No Tube sealant so that it flowed to the bottom of the tyre and didnt make too much of a mess.Then finished fitting the bead.Quite tight on these tyres but as there is no tube you can use a lever without fear of pinching.Then a bit more soapy water and inflated with a canister.Apparently you can do it with a pump but I couldn't manage.It sealed straight off and was set at 110psi.It was still at that pressure for my Sunday morning race.I was a bit cautious to start with but forgot about it once the race heated up.
Today I fitted the rear after bunging up the valve hole with silicon,letting it seal for 3 days and the drilling a small hole back thru the silicon.For the rims with spoke holes you take off old rim tape.Sand lightly with a bit of wet/dry.Clean with brake clean or alcohol.Then fit a special tape around the rim twice streaching it while fitting it.Put the valve in and then exactly the same as the front.It did hiss for a second from the valve but then seated nicely.
I manage a 10k ride,but that was all as I need some sleep but couldn't resist a try out.It felt great...seemed to roll very smoothly but at the same time I can run 20 psi less.Looking forward to Sundays race to give it a good test out.It is suppose to mean less rolling resistance,no punctures (obviously the main reason I have done it).But definately no weight saving as the tyre is 290 grams which plus the valve and 50ml of sealant probably equals 340 grams...race tyre and tube probably comes in at 220grams...but I will see how they go
Front is on a Kysrium SL wheel (with no spoke holes in the rim)
Rear is on Dura-Ace wheel (with holes)
First time fitting on Saturday night was a messy disaster.Mainly because the rear rim which I started with had a enlarged hole due to previous owner being a bit rough.So the valve wouldn't seal and eventually it pulled into the rim as the hole was a touch too large to get a seal.So after 5 canisters,soapy water everywhere and a very sweaty me a gave up on that and decided to skip the DuraAce front wheel and take the easy option of a Ksyrium front wheel with no spoke holes to seal.Just a matter of installing the vavle...not too tight.Putting one side of the tyre on,soaping the bead up really well.Then installing 3/4 the other bead (I did all this while the wheel was in a mag trainer for obvious reason about to be explained).Then turned the wheel around so that the still to be fitted bead was at the top and then poured in the Stans No Tube sealant so that it flowed to the bottom of the tyre and didnt make too much of a mess.Then finished fitting the bead.Quite tight on these tyres but as there is no tube you can use a lever without fear of pinching.Then a bit more soapy water and inflated with a canister.Apparently you can do it with a pump but I couldn't manage.It sealed straight off and was set at 110psi.It was still at that pressure for my Sunday morning race.I was a bit cautious to start with but forgot about it once the race heated up.
Today I fitted the rear after bunging up the valve hole with silicon,letting it seal for 3 days and the drilling a small hole back thru the silicon.For the rims with spoke holes you take off old rim tape.Sand lightly with a bit of wet/dry.Clean with brake clean or alcohol.Then fit a special tape around the rim twice streaching it while fitting it.Put the valve in and then exactly the same as the front.It did hiss for a second from the valve but then seated nicely.
I manage a 10k ride,but that was all as I need some sleep but couldn't resist a try out.It felt great...seemed to roll very smoothly but at the same time I can run 20 psi less.Looking forward to Sundays race to give it a good test out.It is suppose to mean less rolling resistance,no punctures (obviously the main reason I have done it).But definately no weight saving as the tyre is 290 grams which plus the valve and 50ml of sealant probably equals 340 grams...race tyre and tube probably comes in at 220grams...but I will see how they go