Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

}SkOrPn--7
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Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:15 pm

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Tue Dec 20, 2011 8:46 pm

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub Strip and Rebuild

Hi folks many of you may have a Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub or thinking of making a purchase. This hub has no info available on the web regarding stripping and rebuilding so I thought that for the members on this forum who have one or thinking of maybe making a purchase a step by step instruction of stripping and rebuilding would be a good resource to have here more so for those who do touring. I know many folks see such things as stripping looking inside or doing maintenance on such a complex item to be daunting. I hope to remove that thought and give you all a comprehensive illustrated guide showing detailed images of the complete strip and rebuild of all the inner workings of the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub.

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Over the coming days I will commence the write up along with images to uncover and reveal the inner working of this hub. I hope that this will at least help someone here to overcome the fear pulling one apart failing to remember where all the inner parts go or give you a great guide to doing repairs for simple reference to refer back too.

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3

Description

• All new cassette 3 speed hub
• 3 Speed internal gear hub with disc brake
• Classic 3 speed gear ratio of 177%
• Compatible with 8 and 9 speed cassettes
• Compatible with standard MTB / ATB left hand shifters for front triple chainwheel
• Available with polished and anodised aluminium shell in silver or black

Specs

• Speed 3 x 8/9 Speed
• Type - Freewheel
• Hub Shell Material - 6061 Aluminium
• Axle Diameter - 13/32” Slotted
• Axle Length - 179mm
• Over Locknut Dimension - 135mm
• Right Axle Protrusion Length - 22mm
• Left Axle Protrusion Length - 22mm
• Spoke Holes - 36/32
• Pitch Circle Diameter - 67mm
• Centre to Flange Right - 21.4mm
• Centre to Flange Left - 35.4mm
• Flange Width - 53mm
• Spoke Compatibility - 13g or 14g
• Cassette Sprocket Type - 8/9 Speed
• Max Sprocket - 34T (I'm running a 12-36T on my hub and have done thousands of Kilometres without issue climbing in some cases well over 18% grades)
• Min. Sprocket - 11T
• Chain Line: 45mm
• Indicator Chain - HSA716 Mark 8

• Weight - 1155g

Gear Ratio

• Overall Range - 177%
• Gear 1 - 75% (-)25%
• Gear 2 - 100% Direct Drive (Gear 1 + 33%)
• Gear 3 - 133% (+)33.3% (Gear 2 + 33%)



*Please take note of (Sturmey Archer Section "B") at the end of this guide for further information Before moving past this point.



From this point on I will try and use the correct terms and names for each part of the hub where possible but in some cases it maybe a little tricky due to the lack of info about on the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub. As of this guide for anyone maybe thinking of making a purchase spare parts are as rear as hens teeth and near impossible to obtain so I give this info as a heads up at this stage because I think the public needs to know these facts. Yes spare parts from other hubs can be retro fitted but there is only a few items that can and those items are not the parts likely to need replacement due to failure.

To begin with stripping this hub your going to need a few tools either specialised tools for the job or common tools modified to suit the stripping needs. By this I refer to cone spanners or a common open ended spanner ground down to be 2mm in thickness or less acting as a cone spanner where applicable in some cases. Some open ended or ring spanners are fine for the Cone Lock Nuts holding the Axle Cone With Dust Cap in place or the LH/RH Axle Nut but that is as far as the common spanner will take you.

Since I have all cone spanners this will be the reference used in this guide and below are the cone spanners required in metric sizes. (*) denotes specialised cone spanner needed or modified common tool.

• LH/RH Axle NutS (Cone spanner 15mm)
• LH Cone Lock Nut (Cone spanner 17mm)
• RH (Drive side) Cone Lock Nut (Cone Spanner 14mm)
• * LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap (Cone Spanner 16mm)
• * RH (Drive side) Axle Cone (Cone Spanner 12mm)

•You will also need a punch and hammer of choice to open the RH Ball Ring (Opens in a anticlockwise direction)

I just want to state now that for the purpose of this guide I have already stripped and cleaned all parts removing the internal grease so as to make the images clear as possible and that the smaller detailed parts are visible. I have also removed the spokes and rim etc so again I can complete a new wheel build once this guide is completed. With that said the first step in stripping the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub is to place the drive side in a vice using the flat sections on the Axel. This isn't necessary but it makes life allot easier which stops the Axel from turning while you use the cone spanners to undo the LH Cone Lock Nut and the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap.

I guess at this point for anyone attempting this stripping that you work out your own system to place the parts as they get removed be it that you place them in order depending on which side they come from or any other system best suited to your needs. What ever your system is should it fail I have a image that has all parts lined up in order of placing them back together so don't fear it is covered in this guide.

This image below shows the drive side Axel as indicated by the pointer which is to be placed first into the vice.

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Once done you should now have the non drive side upper most as in the below image ready to have the LH Cone Lock Nut and the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap removed.

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You will need to take your 17mm cone spanner to undo the LH Cone Lock Nut and while using your 16mm cone spanner to hold the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap which is underneath LH Cone Lock Nut.

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Once the LH Cone Lock Nut has been loosened fingers is all that's needed to remove it from the threaded Axle.

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A few turns of the 16mm cone spanner on the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap will allow fingers to be used.

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LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap can be unscrewed of the Axel.

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For an alternative method of stripping the hub at this point venture to the end of the guide at *(Sturmey Archer Section "B") Part B before coming back here and deciding on your preferred method of continuing.

Flip the Hub over so the drive side is upper most as in the below image ready to have the RH Cone Lock Nut and the RH Axle Cone removed.

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You will need to take your 14mm cone spanner to undo the RH Cone Lock Nut and while using your 12mm cone spanner to hold the RH Axle Cone which is underneath RH Cone Lock Nut being the same procedure as for the LH side.

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Once the RH Cone Lock Nut has been loosened fingers is all that's needed to remove it from the threaded Axle.

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A few turns of the 12mm cone spanner on the RH Axle Cone will allow fingers to be used.

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RH Axle Cone can be unscrewed of the Axel.

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That pretty much completes the simple stages and from this point on your will need to pay attention to detail and ensure that you now watch taking note of how things dismantle. Slowly does it and if you take your time noting each part and how they all mesh together it should be a fairly straight forward stripping with very few nasty surprises. Now having said very few nasty surprises it's best to work over a large towel that your happy to get dirty and this acts as a anti roll for the ball bearings which could drop out when we hit that stage of the guide or catch smaller parts. Also it's best to have the hub low down if not touching the towel as you slowly remove the parts because some items are spring loaded with the possibility off popping of if your unaware of this or being knocked off while you work unbeknown to you so a heads up at this stage to be careful from this point on. Another reason to be careful is the grease will hide some of the smaller parts but the grease can also be your friend ensuring most parts will not fly off due to the tacky nature of grease.

For the next step I suggest that you have the hub rest on a solid bench or something that will not have much flex in it because to undo the following will require a sharp blow. Having the hub rest on something that will flex will only absorb more of the blow which results in very little progress to get the Ball Ring to loosen as it's fairly tight. For this task you need a hammer and punch or better still a rounded end punch so it will not damage the cut out in the Ball Ring or use the special tool ("C" Spanner) which no one would have anyway and really isn't needed.

If you mimic the image below and place the punch in the cut out as indicated by the pointer ensuring that you tap in a anticlockwise direction giving a sharp but firm tap this should get the Ball Ring to jolt and begin the process of loosening.

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Now that you have given the above cut out one tap it's time to locate the second cut out as indicated by the pointer and again set the hub up as per the top image but using the second cut out giving it a good tap. Rotate the hub and continue doing this until the Ball ring spins or breaks it's tight lock but again ensure it's done in a anticlockwise direction.

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Mine took two whacks on each cut out then fingers could be deployed to finish unscrewing the Ball Ring as shown in the image below.

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Slowly unscrew the Ball ring until it's free from the shell but don't pull it out of the hub Shell because now you need to prepare for parts to go everywhere so slow and steady needs to kick in from this point on.

Holding the hub and Ball Ring in your hand gently pull on the Freewheel until it slides of the Axle and the Freewheel is the part the pointer is pointing at in the image below.

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It's been my experience that when removing the Freewheel the Ball Cage Assembly in the Ball Ring will come out still attached to the Freewheel because of the Pawls once free of the Ball Ring will expand causing them to catch the Ball Cage Assembly. The Ball Cage Assembly is a plastic cage that houses the ball bearings which can be pulled out of the cage with your fingers or can be knocked out if your not careful causing you to have the ball bearings drop everywhere so a heads up at this point to take care. The ball bearings snap into location on the Cage Assembly which spaces them evenly so once cleaned of the grease as far as I can tell from the Cage Assembly you will see it acts as a dust cover and seal from any moisture and dirt entering the Freewheel/Ball Ring. If you place the parts back together once cleaned and look over how it works pushing the parts together by h

}SkOrPn--7
Posts: 2347
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:15 pm

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Tue Jan 10, 2012 12:57 am

In the image below you will see the Lockwasher for Vertical Dropout but you will notice a height difference between the two. Both come from factory the same height as the Lockwasher on the right but here is another issue you may need to fix with this Sturmey Archer Hub as I needed too. In my case I had to remove some of the material on the left hand Lockwasher in order for the Lock Nut to tighten the left side of the Hub in the dropout. So after installing the Hub and torquing the Lock Nuts and you find the rear wheel loose check this isn't the cause of the issue and if it is just remove enough until all is secure.

Image

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ldrcycles
Posts: 8188
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:19 pm
Location: Kin Kin, Queensland

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby ldrcycles » Wed May 08, 2013 6:25 pm

I don't know why I hadn't seen this earlier, BEST HOW TO POST EVER!! Exceptional work.
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.

}SkOrPn--7
Posts: 2347
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:15 pm

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Wed May 08, 2013 8:05 pm

ldrcycles wrote:I don't know why I hadn't seen this earlier, BEST HOW TO POST EVER!! Exceptional work.


This is the old one the link below is the rebuilt updated version of the tutorial I wrote and thanks for your kind words I hope it helped you.

http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=49798

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ldrcycles
Posts: 8188
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 3:19 pm
Location: Kin Kin, Queensland

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby ldrcycles » Wed May 08, 2013 8:16 pm

Oh I've never even seen a 2 speed sturmey but I guess now if I ever do, watch out! :)
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.

}SkOrPn--7
Posts: 2347
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 7:15 pm

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Wed May 08, 2013 8:23 pm

Ok ldrcycles no worries glad you liked it anyway it took me ages to do that write up and images.

Ricky

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