Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Tue Dec 20, 2011 7:46 pm

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub Strip and Rebuild

Hi folks many of you may have a Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub or thinking of making a purchase. This hub has no info available on the web regarding stripping and rebuilding so I thought that for the members on this forum who have one or thinking of maybe making a purchase a step by step instruction of stripping and rebuilding would be a good resource to have here more so for those who do touring. I know many folks see such things as stripping looking inside or doing maintenance on such a complex item to be daunting. I hope to remove that thought and give you all a comprehensive illustrated guide showing detailed images of the complete strip and rebuild of all the inner workings of the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub.

Image

Over the coming days I will commence the write up along with images to uncover and reveal the inner working of this hub. I hope that this will at least help someone here to overcome the fear pulling one apart failing to remember where all the inner parts go or give you a great guide to doing repairs for simple reference to refer back too.

Sturmey Archer CS-RK3

Description

• All new cassette 3 speed hub
• 3 Speed internal gear hub with disc brake
• Classic 3 speed gear ratio of 177%
• Compatible with 8 and 9 speed cassettes
• Compatible with standard MTB / ATB left hand shifters for front triple chainwheel
• Available with polished and anodised aluminium shell in silver or black

Specs

• Speed 3 x 8/9 Speed
• Type - Freewheel
• Hub Shell Material - 6061 Aluminium
• Axle Diameter - 13/32” Slotted
• Axle Length - 179mm
• Over Locknut Dimension - 135mm
• Right Axle Protrusion Length - 22mm
• Left Axle Protrusion Length - 22mm
• Spoke Holes - 36/32
• Pitch Circle Diameter - 67mm
• Centre to Flange Right - 21.4mm
• Centre to Flange Left - 35.4mm
• Flange Width - 53mm
• Spoke Compatibility - 13g or 14g
• Cassette Sprocket Type - 8/9 Speed
• Max Sprocket - 34T (I'm running a 12-36T on my hub and have done thousands of Kilometres without issue climbing in some cases well over 18% grades)
• Min. Sprocket - 11T
• Chain Line: 45mm
• Indicator Chain - HSA716 Mark 8

• Weight - 1155g

Gear Ratio

• Overall Range - 177%
• Gear 1 - 75% (-)25%
• Gear 2 - 100% Direct Drive (Gear 1 + 33%)
• Gear 3 - 133% (+)33.3% (Gear 2 + 33%)



*Please take note of (Sturmey Archer Section "B") at the end of this guide for further information Before moving past this point.



From this point on I will try and use the correct terms and names for each part of the hub where possible but in some cases it maybe a little tricky due to the lack of info about on the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub. As of this guide for anyone maybe thinking of making a purchase spare parts are as rear as hens teeth and near impossible to obtain so I give this info as a heads up at this stage because I think the public needs to know these facts. Yes spare parts from other hubs can be retro fitted but there is only a few items that can and those items are not the parts likely to need replacement due to failure.

To begin with stripping this hub your going to need a few tools either specialised tools for the job or common tools modified to suit the stripping needs. By this I refer to cone spanners or a common open ended spanner ground down to be 2mm in thickness or less acting as a cone spanner where applicable in some cases. Some open ended or ring spanners are fine for the Cone Lock Nuts holding the Axle Cone With Dust Cap in place or the LH/RH Axle Nut but that is as far as the common spanner will take you.

Since I have all cone spanners this will be the reference used in this guide and below are the cone spanners required in metric sizes. (*) denotes specialised cone spanner needed or modified common tool.

• LH/RH Axle NutS (Cone spanner 15mm)
• LH Cone Lock Nut (Cone spanner 17mm)
• RH (Drive side) Cone Lock Nut (Cone Spanner 14mm)
• * LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap (Cone Spanner 16mm)
• * RH (Drive side) Axle Cone (Cone Spanner 12mm)

•You will also need a punch and hammer of choice to open the RH Ball Ring (Opens in a anticlockwise direction)

I just want to state now that for the purpose of this guide I have already stripped and cleaned all parts removing the internal grease so as to make the images clear as possible and that the smaller detailed parts are visible. I have also removed the spokes and rim etc so again I can complete a new wheel build once this guide is completed. With that said the first step in stripping the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub is to place the drive side in a vice using the flat sections on the Axel. This isn't necessary but it makes life allot easier which stops the Axel from turning while you use the cone spanners to undo the LH Cone Lock Nut and the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap.

I guess at this point for anyone attempting this stripping that you work out your own system to place the parts as they get removed be it that you place them in order depending on which side they come from or any other system best suited to your needs. What ever your system is should it fail I have a image that has all parts lined up in order of placing them back together so don't fear it is covered in this guide.

This image below shows the drive side Axel as indicated by the pointer which is to be placed first into the vice.

Image

Once done you should now have the non drive side upper most as in the below image ready to have the LH Cone Lock Nut and the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap removed.

Image

You will need to take your 17mm cone spanner to undo the LH Cone Lock Nut and while using your 16mm cone spanner to hold the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap which is underneath LH Cone Lock Nut.

Image

Once the LH Cone Lock Nut has been loosened fingers is all that's needed to remove it from the threaded Axle.

Image

A few turns of the 16mm cone spanner on the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap will allow fingers to be used.

Image

LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap can be unscrewed of the Axel.

Image

For an alternative method of stripping the hub at this point venture to the end of the guide at *(Sturmey Archer Section "B") Part B before coming back here and deciding on your preferred method of continuing.

Flip the Hub over so the drive side is upper most as in the below image ready to have the RH Cone Lock Nut and the RH Axle Cone removed.

Image

You will need to take your 14mm cone spanner to undo the RH Cone Lock Nut and while using your 12mm cone spanner to hold the RH Axle Cone which is underneath RH Cone Lock Nut being the same procedure as for the LH side.

Image

Once the RH Cone Lock Nut has been loosened fingers is all that's needed to remove it from the threaded Axle.

Image

A few turns of the 12mm cone spanner on the RH Axle Cone will allow fingers to be used.

Image

RH Axle Cone can be unscrewed of the Axel.

Image

That pretty much completes the simple stages and from this point on your will need to pay attention to detail and ensure that you now watch taking note of how things dismantle. Slowly does it and if you take your time noting each part and how they all mesh together it should be a fairly straight forward stripping with very few nasty surprises. Now having said very few nasty surprises it's best to work over a large towel that your happy to get dirty and this acts as a anti roll for the ball bearings which could drop out when we hit that stage of the guide or catch smaller parts. Also it's best to have the hub low down if not touching the towel as you slowly remove the parts because some items are spring loaded with the possibility off popping of if your unaware of this or being knocked off while you work unbeknown to you so a heads up at this stage to be careful from this point on. Another reason to be careful is the grease will hide some of the smaller parts but the grease can also be your friend ensuring most parts will not fly off due to the tacky nature of grease.

For the next step I suggest that you have the hub rest on a solid bench or something that will not have much flex in it because to undo the following will require a sharp blow. Having the hub rest on something that will flex will only absorb more of the blow which results in very little progress to get the Ball Ring to loosen as it's fairly tight. For this task you need a hammer and punch or better still a rounded end punch so it will not damage the cut out in the Ball Ring or use the special tool ("C" Spanner) which no one would have anyway and really isn't needed.

If you mimic the image below and place the punch in the cut out as indicated by the pointer ensuring that you tap in a anticlockwise direction giving a sharp but firm tap this should get the Ball Ring to jolt and begin the process of loosening.

Image

Now that you have given the above cut out one tap it's time to locate the second cut out as indicated by the pointer and again set the hub up as per the top image but using the second cut out giving it a good tap. Rotate the hub and continue doing this until the Ball ring spins or breaks it's tight lock but again ensure it's done in a anticlockwise direction.

Image

Mine took two whacks on each cut out then fingers could be deployed to finish unscrewing the Ball Ring as shown in the image below.

Image

Slowly unscrew the Ball ring until it's free from the shell but don't pull it out of the hub Shell because now you need to prepare for parts to go everywhere so slow and steady needs to kick in from this point on.

Holding the hub and Ball Ring in your hand gently pull on the Freewheel until it slides of the Axle and the Freewheel is the part the pointer is pointing at in the image below.

Image

It's been my experience that when removing the Freewheel the Ball Cage Assembly in the Ball Ring will come out still attached to the Freewheel because of the Pawls once free of the Ball Ring will expand causing them to catch the Ball Cage Assembly. The Ball Cage Assembly is a plastic cage that houses the ball bearings which can be pulled out of the cage with your fingers or can be knocked out if your not careful causing you to have the ball bearings drop everywhere so a heads up at this point to take care. The ball bearings snap into location on the Cage Assembly which spaces them evenly so once cleaned of the grease as far as I can tell from the Cage Assembly you will see it acts as a dust cover and seal from any moisture and dirt entering the Freewheel/Ball Ring. If you place the parts back together once cleaned and look over how it works pushing the parts together by hand you will see what a good seal it is.

The pointer in the below image is showing the Ball Cage Assembly.

Image

Looking at the pointer point to the Ball Ring you can now hold the Hub Shell and with your fingers slowly pull out the Ball Ring which will slide out and then you able to take it off the Axle.

Image

Now that the Ball Ring is removed you can now hold the Hub shell and grab the Axle as indicated in the below image pulling the complete internal workings out of the shell.

Image

Once removed the below image should give you an idea of what it is your looking at after it has been pulled out of the Shell.

Image

Holding the LH side Axle with your right hand grab the Gear Ring Assembly as indicated by the pointer sliding it of from the Axle.

Image

Gear Ring Assembly now removed but be cautious here and sit the Gear Ring assembly so that the largest part is on your work area. Looking at the top you will see two Pawl Pins and because there not a tight fit they can just fall out but I will get to dismantling this later on in this guide.

Image

Continuing with the stripping first thing that is to be done next is remove a Circlip as shown in the below image. Best that this clip be lifted onto the Axle shaft then slid along the Axle to be removed. This Circlip bends with ease and in my opinion is crap so I replaced mine with a 12mm Circlip that I will show later in this guide *(Sturmey Archer Section "B")Part A. Another important point here is that once the tension is removed from the Clutch Spring hidden in the Clutch is an Axle Key that the Gear Indicator screws into. (That Gear Indicator is that long shaft with a chain and thread on it's end) Be on the look out for this to drop out at any stage from this point on.

Image

Once the Circlip is removed up the Axle shaft the Clutch Spring and Washer will spring up as in the below image.

Image

Remove the Washer.

Image

Remove the Clutch Spring but be careful because this area is full of grease and behind the Clutch Spring is another washer which may stick to the Clutch Spring on removal or remain inside the Clutch hidden with grease.

Image

The below image shows that second washer that is found inside the Clutch.

Image

The below image is the Clutch which is next to be removed by sliding of the Axle. This is about the time that the Axle Key will fall out so keep a good eye on this and even more so because it will be buried in grease

Image

The pointer is pointing at the Axle Key and this just simply pushes out from the slotted Axle.

Image

The Clutch Sleeve and Spring is the next to be slid off the Axle but again because of the grease this could come off with the Clutch and be inside the Clutch hidden so check to locate both items if needed.

Image

Clutch Sleeve Spring.

Image

Clutch Sleeve.

Image

Image

Now hold the Axle and grab the complete Planet Cage Assembly sliding it of the Axle but again be careful of the Pawls and Pawl Spring as not to loose them.

Image

Planet Cage Assembly.

Image

Axle.

Image

Now to remove the LH side Ball Cage & Inner Dust Cap from the Shell and for this you need a small flat tip screwdriver placing it between the gap of the Inner Dust Cap and Ball Cage. Using the screwdriver to lift the Inner Dust Cap but is small moves then stopping and shifting the screwdriver around by 4mm and trying again repeating this for 360 degrees then doing over again in the same manner until the Inner Dust Cap is lifted out of the Ball Cup.

Image

Inner Dust Cap removed from the Ball Cup.

Image

Now just use your fingers to remove the Ball Cage from the Ball Cup.

Image

Image

Image shows both Ball Cage and Inner Dust Cap has been removed from the Shell.

Image

To reassemble the LH side Ball Cage & Inner Dust Cap back into the Ball Cup of the Shell place the Ball Cage into the Ball Cup. At this point there is only one way this will go that feels right and that is balls down with the backbone of the cage facing up. To test if you have this correct just place your finger on top and twist the Ball Cage around if it moves freely the job is done correctly if it fails to move flip the Ball Cage over.

Take notice of the Ball Cage in the below image for correct way to place the Ball Cage in the Ball Cup.

Image

With the Ball Cage placed in correctly prepare the Shell as shown in the image below ready to place the Inner Dust Cap in.

Image

Take note of the correct way the Inner Dust Cap must face and gently push it in a little just to hold it there with your fingers so it doesn't fall out when flipping the Shell.

Image

Using a flat hard surface to press the Inner Dust Cap back into the Ball Cup flip the Shell as shown in the below image and then place your whole hand over the Shell spoke holes pushing down.

Image

The end result of pressing the Inner Dust Cap back into the Shell should yield a result as shown in the below image.

Image

Removing the RH side Ball Cage & Outer Dust Cap from the Freewheel for this you need a small flat tip screwdriver as mentioned above placing it between the gap under the flat part of the Outer Dust Cap and Ball Cage. Using the screwdriver to lift the Outer Dust Cap but in small moves then stopping and shifting the screwdriver around by 4mm and trying again repeating this for 360 degrees then doing over again in the same manner until the Outer Dust Cap is lifted out of the Ball Cup. Just be warned that this Dust Cap is not at strong as the Inner Dust Cap from the Shell due to a non "U" shape design but instead "L" shaped design of the Outer Dust Cap. Once removed some careful tapping with a hammer is required to place the Outer Dust Cap back into shape because the screwdriver will leave marks in order to get this Dust Cap out. I found a round socket that I could place the Outer Dust Cap on and tap with a hammer to regain it's shape but I guess anything you can find and use that is acceptable is fine.

Image

Outer Dust Cap removed and you can see the screwdriver marks in the below image.

Image

Before removing the Ball Cage take notice of the Ball Cage orientation in the below image for correct way to place the Ball Cage in the Ball Cup of the Freewheel when it comes time to reassemble.

Image

Image shows both Ball Cage and Outer Dust Cap has been removed from the Freewheel.

Image

If you have been careful earlier in this guide when removing the Freewheel from the Ball Ring you would have an intact Ball Cage still attached to the freewheel in one piece as in the image below.

Image

Using your fingers just lift this of the Freewheel but be careful as the Ball Bearings can pop out of the Cage.

Image

Image

The below image shows the Circlip that holds the Freewheel Pawls in place.

Image

Freewheel Pawls

Image

I have special pick tools to remove these Circlips but anything you feel will do the same job to lift it out will be fine just take care.

Image

Circlip removed and once the Circlip has cleared the Pawls these will just drop out so watch where they land.

Image

Freewheel Pawls

Image

Freewheel Inner Roller Bearing.

Image

Take note of the Pawls direction they can only go one way that will operate correctly so when rebuilding use the below image to ensure correct orientation. The groove where the Circlip sits to hold the Pawls is a notch ensure that one end of the Circip starts at that point and the other end finishes on the other side of the same notch this stops the Circlip rotating in the channel fowling the Pawls during operation.

Image

In the image below you see the Ball Cage that houses the Ball Bearings and they simply just push into the Cage for correct fit but see "Sturmey_Archer_CS-RK3_Strip__Rebuild51" image for correct orientation when placing it back on the Freewheel ready to be placed in the Ball Ring.

Image

Before removing the Pawls from the Gear Ring Assembly take a close look at the Pawls orientation and placement of the Pawl Spring. When resembling this correct orientation is important along with spring placement so spend some time observing this set-up before moving on.

Image

The two Pawls are held in place by Two Pawl Pins as shown in the below image.

Image

These Pawl Pins are not hard to remove and can be pushed out using a pin through a small hole opposite to the end the pointer is pointing at in the above image or in some cases can be tipped upside down with the Pawl Pins falling out by themselves.

Image

Pawl Pin.

Image

Pawl.

Image

Pawl Spring.

Image

To reassemble the Pawls tale your Pawl and Pawl Spring which is shown in the image below.

Image

Using the below image ensure that the pawl and Pawl Spring match the orientation in the image below and that when the Pawl Pin is placed into the Gear Ring Assembly it should pass through the Pawl Spring and into the Pawl as shown below.

Image

Slide the Pawl back into the Gear Ring Assembly holding the Pawl Spring in place ensuring that the Pawl has that notch upper most. Also make sure that the Gear Ring Assembly is sitting on your work bench as pictured below for correct placement of the parts.

Image

Take your Pawl Pin and drop into the Gear Ring Assembly ensuring that the Pin passes through the Spring while at the same time ensuring that the orientation of Pawl and Pawl Spring match the below image.

Image

When completed the Pawl should be sitting as shown in the image below with the Pawl Spring forcing the Pawl to point out as shown below with the cutout on the Pawl upper most plus the back of the Pawl having that small lip that runs across it's spine.

Image

On the Planet Cage Assembly again take notice of parts orientation and in the below image the notch and channel that the Circlip is placed into. On this occasion the Circlip has a 90 degree turn in one end and fits into that notch again make sure that this is placed back correctly as it stops the Circlip from turning in the channel.

Image

Lifting the Circlip out of the notch the small bend can be seen in the below image.

Image

Removing the Circlip from the Planet Cage Assembly will release the Pawls where the Circlip passes through the middle as shown below.

Image

Pawl Circlip.

Image

Planet Pinion which can't be removed for the novice with little in the way of work shop tools so at this point check each one for damage and if you find missing teeth a replacement Planet Cage Assembly is required.

Image

Pinion Pins are not removable either but have a small compression spring which pushes the Pin upwards to engage the Clutch so again check for smooth operation.

Image

Pinion Pins have a lube hole on the underside which is shown below.

Image

Use the below image for correct orientation of the Pawls and ensure that the Pawl Circlip is seated so the 90 bend is located in the notch mentioned earlier.

Image

Press fitted Pinion Pins this is why a novice requires work shop tools to disassemble hence the Planet Cage Assembly if found to have faulty parts is a throw away job.

Image

If you are an advanced repairer and have the tools take note of the big alignment arrow on the body of the Planet Cage Assembly.

Image

Smaller alignment arrow on the body of the Planet Cage Assembly.

Image

Correct orientation of Pawls and Pawl Circlip on a reassembled Planet Cage Assembly.

Image

Complete Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub.

Image

From left to Right

• LH Axle Nut
• LH Axle Locking Washer
• RH Dust Cap
• RH Axle Locking Washer
• RH Guide Nut
• Indicator
• Cover

Image


*(Sturmey Archer Section "B")



Part A

Earlier in this guide I made mention of a Circlip that holds the Clutch Spring and Washer in place as this Circlip bends with ease so I replaced mine with a 12mm Circlip that is shown in the second image. The image below is a reminder of the original Circlip which I felt needs replacement.

Image

Replacement 12mm Circlip.

Image

Part B

In the first stages of stripping you have to remove the LH Cone Lock Nut along with the LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap as the pointer in the below images shows from the start of this guide. This brings me to the alternative method of stripping the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Duel Drive Hub so either follow the below steps if this is your preferred method and once completed go back to the top of the guide and continue. If you feel that this isn't the best method then return to the top of the guide where you left off and continue. There isn't much in it as both methods will get you the same results but I feel for a novice attempting this for the first time to disregard this section and return back to where you left off if only for the fist time in stripping. Continue on for the more advanced or skilled user in this section is my recommendation then return to the top of the guide for the remainder of the stripping.

Image

Rather than remove the RH Axle Cone and RH Cone Lock Nut shown in the below image as instructed at the start of the guide leave this alone and continue with Removing the Ball Ring.

Image

For the next step I suggest that you have the hub rest on a solid bench or something that will not have much flex in it because to undo the following will require a sharp blow. Having the hub rest on something that will flex will only absorb more of the blow which results in very little progress to get the Ball Ring to loosen as it's fairly tight. For this task you need a hammer and punch or better still a rounded end punch so it will not damage the cut out in the Ball Ring or use the special tool ("C" Spanner) which no one would have anyway and really isn't needed.

If you mimic the image below and place the punch in the cut out as indicated by the pointer ensuring that you tap in a anticlockwise direction giving a sharp but firm tap this should get the Ball Ring to jolt and begin the process of loosening.

Image

Now that you have given the above cut out one tap it's time to locate the second cut out as indicated by the pointer and again set the hub up as per the top image but using the second cut out giving it a good tap. Rotate the hub and continue doing this until the Ball ring spins or breaks it's tight lock but again ensure it's done in a anticlockwise direction.

Mine took two whacks on each cut out then fingers could be deployed to finish unscrewing the Ball Ring.

Image

Slowly unscrew the Ball ring until it's free from the shell as shown in the image below.

Image

Holding the Hub in your hand gently pull on the RH Axle as the pointer is pointing at in the image below this will remove the internal workings from the Hub.

Image

Pull the internal workings completely free of the Hub.

Image

The image below shown the complete Internal workings removed from the Hub but at this stage you still have the RH Axle Cone and RH Cone Lock Nut in place which differs if you continued using the guide above before proceeding with this section.

Image

If you decided to follow these set of instruction under the heading of "*(Sturmey Archer Section "B") Part B" you now have to go back to the top of the Guide and follow on from where you left off at the point of removing the RH Axle Cone and RH Cone Lock Nut.

Part C

The following bit of information is given to over come a few issues that I found and solved which is bloody annoying and in my opinion very poor that it has left the factory this way. The pointer below is showing the Dust Cap that sits behind the cassette and covers the Ball Ring which in turns is a secondary protection to stop dirt from getting near the Bearing cage on the Freewheel.

Image

The Alloy Dust Cap slides off revealing the Ball Ring.

Image

Image

Sure it slides off but force is needed and here lies the first of the problems which is easy to solve. The inner hole needs to be sanded with a little wet and dry sand paper as shown in the image below with the pointer allowing for this to slip on and off rather than using tools to pry it off each time you need it removed. The cassette holds this Dust cap in place as you apply the torque to the cassette lockring so no need for this to be such a tight fit.

Image

The second grievance is the edge of the Dust Cap as seen in the below image that the pointer is pointing at needs to be reduced in height. When a cassette is fitted and the correct torque is applied to the cassette lockring this edge is compressed up against the hub which scrapes the Hub body. This needs to be places on some wet and dry sand paper on a flat surface and evenly sanded to reduce the height for better clearance.

Image

The below image clearly shows the worn circle made on the Hub which has removed the paint and gouged the alloy just below the spoke holes. Not only does it damage the Hub but it also causes the cassette to continue turning when you stop pedalling if not resolved.

Image

The final peeve with this Dust Cap is in the image below you will see a distinct ring that the pointer is pointing at. This ring is in fact a raised lip when it's pressed from factory to allow the Dust Cap to sit closer to the Ball Ring but in doing so it's that close it scrapes on the face of the Ball Ring causing an annoying noise. To solve this just simply place on a flat surface and hammer/tap this lip out so it's flat as you can see in the below image. All that remains is the black ring that once was the lip which the pointer is pointing at but if you hammer this out your then going to have to sand with wet and dry paper the inner hole again because it will have expanded a tad.

Image

This image below shows the pointer pointing at the Ball Ring and you can clearly see the polished edge of the Ball Ring caused by the Dust Cap sitting too close to the Ball Ring all because of that lip which if flattened solves the issue.

Image

Part D

Minor small parts you will need to go back to this guide to look at the assembly order or how it's done this is just a quick overview of placement starting with the Axle as indicated by the pointer.

To reassemble Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 starting left to right.

Image

• Axle
• Planet Cage Assembly
• Clutch Sleeve
• Clutch Sleeve Spring
• Axle Key
• Clutch
• Clutch Washer
• Clutch Spring
• Clutch Washer
• Circlip
• Gear Ring Assembly
• Hub
• Ball Ring
• Ball Cage
• Freewheel
• Ball Cage
• Outer Dust Cap
• RH Axle Cone
• RH Cone Lock Nut
• LH Axle Cone With Dust Cap
• LH Cone Lock Nut

Part E Conclusion

At this stage I haven't shown or mentioned Oils/Grease because these can be very tricky subjects so my advice is take notice of the grease used in the original Hub or go online and do your own research. I will say that I have replaced the lube with higher quality and in some of the working parts reduced the amount of lube because of the type of grease I used. On 3 of the parts I left the grease off from the original and applied oil instead because I felt this was a far better option than using one grease fits all applications as from factory.

My plan for this guide was to break down the unknown on the Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 and produce a guide that will last until the manufactures bring out a full exploded view and instructional document for all to use. In the mean time I hope that my effort will go along way to helping someone until that happens.

Ricky
}SkOrPn--7
 
Posts: 1967
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:15 pm

by BNA » Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:57 pm

BNA
 

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Mon Jan 09, 2012 11:57 pm

In the image below you will see the Lockwasher for Vertical Dropout but you will notice a height difference between the two. Both come from factory the same height as the Lockwasher on the right but here is another issue you may need to fix with this Sturmey Archer Hub as I needed too. In my case I had to remove some of the material on the left hand Lockwasher in order for the Lock Nut to tighten the left side of the Hub in the dropout. So after installing the Hub and torquing the Lock Nuts and you find the rear wheel loose check this isn't the cause of the issue and if it is just remove enough until all is secure.

Image
}SkOrPn--7
 
Posts: 1967
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:15 pm

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby ldrcycles » Wed May 08, 2013 6:25 pm

I don't know why I hadn't seen this earlier, BEST HOW TO POST EVER!! Exceptional work.
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.
User avatar
ldrcycles
 
Posts: 5822
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:19 pm
Location: Kin Kin, Queensland

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Wed May 08, 2013 8:05 pm

ldrcycles wrote:I don't know why I hadn't seen this earlier, BEST HOW TO POST EVER!! Exceptional work.


This is the old one the link below is the rebuilt updated version of the tutorial I wrote and thanks for your kind words I hope it helped you.

http://www.bicycles.net.au/forums/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=49798
}SkOrPn--7
 
Posts: 1967
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:15 pm

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby ldrcycles » Wed May 08, 2013 8:16 pm

Oh I've never even seen a 2 speed sturmey but I guess now if I ever do, watch out! :)
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments- Elizabeth West.
User avatar
ldrcycles
 
Posts: 5822
Joined: Thu Oct 28, 2010 2:19 pm
Location: Kin Kin, Queensland

Re: Sturmey Archer CS-RK3 Strip & Rebuild

Postby }SkOrPn--7 » Wed May 08, 2013 8:23 pm

Ok ldrcycles no worries glad you liked it anyway it took me ages to do that write up and images.

Ricky
}SkOrPn--7
 
Posts: 1967
Joined: Sun Oct 12, 2008 6:15 pm


Return to The Shed

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users



Support BNA
Click for online shops
Torpedo 7 Torpedo7 AU
Ground Effect Ground Effect NZ
Chain Reaction Cycles CRC UK
Wiggle Wiggle UK
Cycling Express Cycling Express
Ebay Ebay AU
ProBikeKit ProBikeKit UK
Evans Cycles Evans Cycles UK
JensonUSA Jenson USA
JensonUSA Competitive Cyclist