Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
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25 posts • Page 1 of 1
The Sydney bike whilst in good nick will get a bit of a basic service, degresse and oil as well as new brake pads
I have 3 types of Lubricant
Finish Line Dry Lubricant
Finish Line Wet Lubricant
Finish Line Wax Lubricant
For predominately a road bike what do people use. In order of price the wax lube goes about $27 for 120ml, the Dry and wet about $18 for the same amount.
Does this necessarily make the Wax the best.
You may as well shout "Creationism has it all over the Theory of Evolution". Lubes and frame materials are religious debates.
Best bet is to try them all and see which you prefer.
(Rock 'n' Roll gold ROCKS! )
I think the point of the post is missed, I have the 3 types of lube listed and various grease's rock and roll super web and the like from the cecil build, as a result I will not be buying any others
So of the three what should I use, should I use wet after a degrease and then in a few days finish with wax. Or use dry only.
I know what the advantages of wet and dry are but wax??
The wax goes on like a wet lube, but the solvent dries out shortly after application, leaving a film of wax. (That's what R&R Gold is).
Since I'm biased (and an atheist) I'd say use the wax lube after you've degreased your chain.
Rock and Roll, nuff said.
Stick with the wax Che, best all round performer. Go the wet if you know it's gonna come down hard... Oh yeah, Sydney, get two chains, one for wax and one for wet
...whatever the road rules, self-preservation is the absolute priority for a cyclist when mixing it with motorised traffic.
London Boy 29/12/2011
I am a grub. I spray Castrol Chain Oil on there and wipe off the exess. This stuff is awesome and goes all over everything. I love cleaning my chain........and my bike.
If you avoid the rain and like a clean chain, use wax. Use dry if you want to save some money and don't mind it looking a bit dirtier.
If you only ride on the road, don't mind a dirty, greasy chain, and want something that works in the rain, use wet and wipe off the excess completely.
The part that bears the load, & therefore needs the lube is the pins & rollers. Unfortunately this is the most difficult part to get lube into.
The most successfull would be something like WD40. It gets in there, but the lubricating qualities & longevity are less than ideal.
As the viscosity rating of the lubricant gets higher, so does it's ability to stay there & do it's job, but the likleyhood of it finding it's way into the pins & rollers, conversely, diminishes.
Anything with teflon or molybdnum that goes on wet but dries to a waxy or heavy viscosity would seem to offer some decided advantages.
Whatever is used, if it can't get right into the rollers & pins, ... it aint worth squat.
Carbine & SJH cycles, & Quicksilver BMX
Now that's AUSTRALIAN to the core.
That's why the wax ones seem to be okay. Wax is disolved in solvent which carries the lube into the pins. The solvent evaporates away, leaving the waxy coating.
Well, that's what the marketing blurb says, anyway. Works for me, but one day I'll try lubing with molybdenum chain lube.
I'm pretty sure keeping the chain clean and lubricated (any of them) is by far the biggest difference you can make in terms of smoothness and having your components last longer.
Choosing between the different lubes seems to be more a case of how often you want to clean the thing (wet = more, dry/wax = less), suitability (wet = better in wet conditions, dry/wax = drier conditions), and cost (wet = cheaper, dry/wax = more expensive).
I'm not a fan of cleaning the chain all the time so I think I may change to a dry/wax lube in the future ATM I'm using a wet lube and it's like a magnet to grit. When I get my park tools super duper chain cleaner it might make things easier but for here in Perth, and the fact I avoid riding in the rain, it makes sense to go for the dry/wax...
/ Giant OCR / Go Vegan /
OMGosh, I don't have the references or data to argue against that.
It might be true!
Bianchi, Ridley, Montague, GT, Garmin and All things Apple
thought I'd give thisa go but decided to McGuyver my own. White spirit (kero should work the same) mixed with some bearing grease into a treacle consistency. Clean chain first then drop in the mixture, shake and leave sitting for a while. Remove, wipe and let the white spirit evaporate. Install and lightly oil. Tested this on my wife's bike (not the fixie) and for the past week all is looking good.
Here'sthe threadon BROL in which Keninmichegan sprukes for industrial chain lube with MoS2 in it. As I said earlier, I'll give it a go when I next need to replace my lube.
It seems we have a lot of options available to us. I wonder what the motorbike riders use these days?
Sounds interesting, Tally. I might have to give this a go at some point myself - especially knowing the evaporation types are better for the dry, dusty conditions.
I was a big fan of the White Lightening stuff for a while, but then I couldn't get any from any nearby LBS stores and then begrudgingly got forced into using a more wet lubg for a while.
It came down to me getting annoyed with 1) the price you pay for such small quantities of a such a product 2) inconsistencies of availablity... but after a little research I tried similar DIY method with cheaper ingredients.
A litre of chainsaw bar oil = $4. Lightly thinned with a small portion of lighter machine oil in a 150mL oil can has been doing me OK over the last 6 months.
My general technique is clean chain in degreaser or kero; shaking it around in a sealed container. Remove and rinse under water. Dry it by flinging it around, or hang it over something out in the breeze for a little while. Then lightly oil a rag in the above mixture and pul the chain through for a light coating. Reattach to bike (I use master links) and then apply a single drop of to each linkage whilst slowly rotating the crank. Spin things then a bit being careful to clean up excess.
I think the whole process is really personal, though. Some may think I'm being a bit laborious. But after spending various amounts of money on different doo-dads, specialist lubes & cleaners I found the job was just as messy without really being convinced I was doing a better job. My kit these days consists of an traditional little oil can, a sealable container to clean the chain in (an old 1kgHoney bucket) a couple of funnels for recycling degreaser and plenty of rags
After all is said and done; a lot more is usually said than done.
on the FGG they have a concoction dubbed "forum lube" - mix of 3:1 or 4:1 - mineral spirits to 'Mobil 1' synthetic oil. Other versions use petrol (an exciting alternative to mineral spirits), 90-weight gear oil, and paraffin. The paraffin dissolves. The petrol carries the stuff into all the nooks and crannies, then quickly evaporates, leaving the wax/oil mixture in where it's needed. A good wipe of the outside leaves the chain clean where you want it clean and lubed where you want it lubed.
Ok, I'm intrigued. Sounds like the finished product - or the chain ready to be remounted - is lubed very much like a brand new, out of the box chain. I recall Sheldons page stating the best lube is that on a new chain.
I guess the downside to this, is that you probably need to mix up the goods each time - unless you can keep a quantity in a sealed container?
After all is said and done; a lot more is usually said than done.
It worked great on the cecil until it got dusty, dust sticks like sh*t to a blanket on the lube I got on the Durace chain I put on the cecil.
A de grease and soak in transmission fluid then let dry and a wash with wax lube worked great.
Exactly the problem with those lubes. If you're running on a dust-free velodrome then I suppose it would be practical to leave it there, but I found my chain was pretty disgusting and had attracted heaps of grit after just three rides. Not great for chain life.
The wet and dry will work well for your purposes IMHO. The Wet is better for older chains as it gets into all the nooks and crannys and frees up stuck links better, but tends to result is a dirty chain quickly (i.e 3-4 days on road riding). The drys I find better on newer chains and stay reasonably clean for a while.
Wax however is best suited for MTB/dirt riding applications. Any dirt/mud/grit that gets on the chain drops off, but in the process the wax wears out quite quickly. The wax needs reapplication quite regularly (i.e. after every ride). It also dries and flakes off quickly too and I wouldn't recommend it for a road bike especially over long distances (unless you like cleaning and lubung your chain often)
...and that's me 2 cents worth for the moment...
It's the Vibe, It's the Constitution, It's Mabo...it's all that...
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