I'm a champion bike mechanic...
- Duck!
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby Duck! » Sat Jun 17, 2017 9:53 pm
Campag works on a 1.5:1 ratio, which could just about be tuned to work with a Shimano 4700/11-sp. RD, BUT uses unequal sprocket spacing, just to muck things up. The mismatch is worst with 10-sp because the Campag cassette is also wider, 9 & 11-sp. still have the unequal spacing but are pretty similar to Shimano in overall width, so you can work around it if you can handle the odd slightly fluffy shift.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby duncanm » Sat Jun 17, 2017 10:34 pm
I've got the RD cable routed outside an extra tabbed washer to compensate for the campy-10 shifter/shimano-9 RD and cassette pull difference.
Shifts good across the whole range.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby RobertL » Mon Jun 19, 2017 11:24 am
My rack is fitted with a single aluminium connector that attaches to the main brake bolt through the brake bridge. So that's another alternative.lunar_c wrote:
Needed to stick a rack on my commuter (OCR 3) which has quite low set seat stays.
Picked up a cheap rack and the included hardware had no hope of navigating the turns around the brake calliper.
Bent some up from aluminium stock with some very tricky bends for the left one.
A bit of polish and I'm very chuffed, and no lugging a backpack to work with me 45km a day.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby Tim » Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:51 pm
Loctite 609 to the frame BB shell where the bearings make contact. Hopefully no creaking when it dries out. It worked last time
Most difficult part was coating the frame shell. Not too much Loctite, very wary of it finding it's way into the bearings, but enough to do the job. I used a cotton wool earbud, worked a treat.
The cranks/bearings bound slightly when I refitted them. Took a spacer out and they then spun freely. Strange that there wasn't any binding earlier. I double checked the bearings were pressed fully all the way home. Who knows?
Test ride tomorrow, I hope it works.
Postcript; BB30 is a crap system. I'll keep saying it 'till I'm blue in the face.
Meanwhile, the carbon fibre dropouts on my warranty replaced TCR SL frame are beginning to chew-out, just like the old frame.
Post postscript; carbon dropouts are a crap system. I keep saying it till I run out of breath.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby ironhanglider » Thu Jun 22, 2017 9:43 pm
My rides today were a joy.
Cheers,
Cameron
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby RobertL » Fri Jun 23, 2017 10:49 am
Ha! My commuter has some sort of freeplay developing in the drivetrain. No noise as such, but a just a little bit of freeplay coming from somewhere. I have had a look at the pedals and shoe cleats so far. Tightened everything, but no success. My next guess is the cassette lockring. If that doesn't work, then I will investigate the bottom bracket.ironhanglider wrote:It took me 3 weeks to figure out the mysterious ticking sound under load. It was sort of related to pedal speed but not quite. Skewers - tight, Headset - firm, seatpost - removed and re-greased, saddle clamp - R&R, Saddle tension bolt - tensioned, Spokes - all reasonably tensioned, Chainring studs - tight. Cassette locking - from good enough to properly tight = silence.
My rides today were a joy.
Cheers,
Cameron
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby am50em » Tue Jun 27, 2017 7:36 pm
Parts 2 and 3.am50em wrote:The creak on my bike had been getting progressively worse. Sometimes after riding for a while it would diminish but was always there. Only appeared on right side pedaling.
Lately it was driving me crazy.
Sounded like bottom bracket area so:
...
still no change
Started to think it was where the spindle and right hand crank were joined but no idea how to fix that.
Read http://www.jimlangley.net/wrench/keepitquiet.html which suggest noise could be coming from elsewhere like seat tube/post.
Could not be the seat post - it is a carbon seat post and I used carbon paste when I set it up. Any way checked it and the paste was dry and not much coverage so cleaned and reapplied.
Success! Only a slight creak.
So now off with the saddle and greased the rails and the plate mountings and now no creak!
ah the joy of silent riding again with a super smooth running drive chain.
Bliss.
And it only took 2-3 months to diagnose and fix!
Celebrated too soon
Noise returned after a day or so. Started thinking about it and remembered I had tried to adjust the rear mudguard so it did not touch the front derailleur. Thought this must be the problem so removed the mudguards. Also sprayed some lubricant around the cranks/BB. Again nose gone for a day or so but then returned.
Last night was prepping the bike and noticed BB sounded like it had grit in it. So off with the cranks, cleaned and relubed BB and reinstalled. Before I put the cranks back in look more closely how the spindle joins the cranks. What I though were 3 rivets turned out to be T25 Torx screws. First one I went to tighten was slightly loose. Checked the other two and they were pretty good. Rode today and silence. I think I have finally fixed it.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby RobertL » Wed Jun 28, 2017 10:35 am
It's a funny thing: cyclists and these sort of noises. As I was reading your post, I was getting more and more tense as you tried different things...and failed to fix it.Rode today and silence. I think I have finally fixed it.
When I read that you found the loose chainring bolt and it fixed the problem, I let out a sigh of relief in sympathy.
Well done!
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby am50em » Wed Jun 28, 2017 11:57 am
Thanks.RobertL wrote:It's a funny thing: cyclists and these sort of noises. As I was reading your post, I was getting more and more tense as you tried different things...and failed to fix it.Rode today and silence. I think I have finally fixed it.
When I read that you found the loose chainring bolt and it fixed the problem, I let out a sigh of relief in sympathy.
Well done!
It is actually the spindle to right hand crank screws. I greased and tightened (and broke one ) chainring bolts much earlier.
But now I hear the occasional slight creak from what I think is the headset
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby g-boaf » Sat Jul 01, 2017 5:50 pm
I am at that point right now. There is an infuriating tick, tick, tick on pedaling. It is maddening! I've got a new chain on the bike (KMC X11SL gold), the chainrings are fairly new and the bolts holding them in are properly tightened up. I also checked the saddle clamp and rails, those are okay. Thought I'd go out and check again, no luck - still this tick, tick, tick...am50em wrote:Parts 2 and 3.
Celebrated too soon
Noise returned after a day or so. Started thinking about it and remembered I had tried to adjust the rear mudguard so it did not touch the front derailleur. Thought this must be the problem so removed the mudguards. Also sprayed some lubricant around the cranks/BB. Again nose gone for a day or so but then returned.
Last night was prepping the bike and noticed BB sounded like it had grit in it. So off with the cranks, cleaned and relubed BB and reinstalled. Before I put the cranks back in look more closely how the spindle joins the cranks. What I though were 3 rivets turned out to be T25 Torx screws. First one I went to tighten was slightly loose. Checked the other two and they were pretty good. Rode today and silence. I think I have finally fixed it.
Next check is the cassette and the press-fit bottom bracket (a new one, but still argh). The noise is torture!! I can't stand it.
I did however come across one poor guy on my way back home with a very loose saddle clamp on his bike. One of the bolts had come loose - so told him to wait a few minutes and I'd be back with hex keys to sort it.
Well in typical fashion a few minutes becomes 5 minutes or so, because in typical manner I had to find the damned things! They were of course in plain sight the whole time and I went past them numerous times without seeing them.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby g-boaf » Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:22 am
Took the cranks off, cleaned and greased the splines, took the bolts off, cleaned and greased them and also did the same for the pedal bolts.
Not exactly sure which one was the culprit, but the noise seems to have gone.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby ValleyForge » Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:43 am
Like being stuck in a 3 hr traffic jam on the way to the beach, and finding out there was no smash or breakdown causing it. Underwhelming!g-boaf wrote:Not exactly sure which one was the culprit, but the noise seems to have gone.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby find_bruce » Sat Aug 12, 2017 12:06 pm
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby bychosis » Tue Aug 15, 2017 1:59 pm
2nd battle, chain. Looked over the chain and couldn't find a quick link. No problem, have chain breaker. Chain breaker is a cheap one that has worked fine before, but not this time. Several attempts resulting in fails, from both sides of the chain. Eventually resign myself to a grinder/saw of some sort and then spot the quick link. 2seconds to remove the chain, but then I had a stiff link about half way along the chain where I'd been trying to break it. Finally a little more finessing with the chain breaker and the link is free enough to use.
Sigh.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby Cheesewheel » Sat Sep 02, 2017 5:40 am
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby jasonc » Sat Sep 02, 2017 6:08 am
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby OnTrackZeD » Sat Sep 02, 2017 8:42 am
If the old fork is a bin job then you can cut off the steerer tube at the bottom and drive the star nut right through.Cheesewheel wrote: I promptly drove the star nut in the fork .... the old fork
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby Cheesewheel » Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:40 pm
Thanks for the offer jason but i am not in the vicinity of brisvegas atm ... will probably check out a lbs or 2jasonc wrote:Cheesewheel - if you are in Brisbane i may have a spare
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby Cheesewheel » Sat Sep 02, 2017 10:44 pm
No the fork is fine ... I just bit the bullet and went for a fork with mounts for bikepacking ... expect to see a surly krampus fork (with no mounts) up for grabs as soon (well, as soon as I do a ruthless stocktake and sort everything out)OnTrackZeD wrote:If the old fork is a bin job then you can cut off the steerer tube at the bottom and drive the star nut right through.Cheesewheel wrote: I promptly drove the star nut in the fork .... the old fork
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby diventare » Sat Sep 02, 2017 11:40 pm
SRAM Red shifts smoothly at present.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby g-boaf » Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:44 pm
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby biker jk » Sat Sep 16, 2017 3:24 pm
If they're tubeless ready then that would explain the difficulty. The trick is to push the tyre sidewall off the ridge to the centre channel of the rim.g-boaf wrote:Bontrager Paradigm Elite wheels, damn those things are hard to put tyres on.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby g-boaf » Sat Sep 16, 2017 5:20 pm
biker jk wrote:If they're tubeless ready then that would explain the difficulty. The trick is to push the tyre sidewall off the ridge to the centre channel of the rim.g-boaf wrote:Bontrager Paradigm Elite wheels, damn those things are hard to put tyres on.
They are, and that's what I did. Still required brute force and lots of cursing. Great wheels though.
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby OnTrackZeD » Sun Sep 17, 2017 8:31 am
A 'Tyre Jack" makes an easy job of hard to fit tyres.g-boaf wrote:Bontrager Paradigm Elite wheels, damn those things are hard to put tyres on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EZRSz1DlHg
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Re: I'm a champion bike mechanic...
Postby g-boaf » Sun Sep 17, 2017 12:33 pm
That is quite a great thing - will get one.OnTrackZeD wrote:A 'Tyre Jack" makes an easy job of hard to fit tyres.g-boaf wrote:Bontrager Paradigm Elite wheels, damn those things are hard to put tyres on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EZRSz1DlHg
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