Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
I need a new Campag (preferably) crankset for a bike build. The Power torque system used in the lower end (Veloce, Centaur, Athena etc.) which is what I am after, is widely criticised on the electric Interweb for being very difficult to work on (very poor design, special tools including a bearing puller required for removal, unreliability, hard to remove without damaging the crank arms etc.).
Does anyone have experience on working on (basically removing) the Power torque system? Is it as bad as it appears? Are there cheaper alternatives to buying special Campag tools?
Frankly I'd be happy with an old Campy square taper crankset. Come to think of it, I'd be happy with Shimano Hollowtech cranks (I've used them for years) but I want to keep the build on this one Campy.
Any help appreciated.
Not that I have come across, which is sort of why my Van Nic now has a Fulcrum Racing Torq R crankset.
What sort of crankset are you looking for? I have a UT 53/39 Veloce crankset (~3000km) which came off said bike if you want to make me an offer?
I've a Centaur 10 Carbon Compact square taper crankset with square taper BB I could let go for a reasonable offer...
I've been running Chorus 10s power torque since their initial release (approx 7 years in UK foul weather) which is the reason why I have the above set available, and have only recently had to change the bearings, so I very much doubt you'll need to ever worry about working on the bearings in sunny Aus.
Quick edit, I had my LBS change the bearings for me so no experience on how difficult it was.
There's nothing wrong with powertorque.
Maybe it's becuase I'm used to buying expensive tools for my other mechanical hobbies, but I don't see why "special tools" to work on something is such an issue.
People buy cassette tools and chain whips, yes?
I've got Campy Centaur powertorque on both of my road bikes.
You need a 14mm hex to undo the non-drive side "nut".
Then you use a 2 jaw bearing puller (I got one from supercheap for $20) to take the non-drive crank arm off.
The crank is hollow, so you need a washer or similar of the correct diameter to put over the non-drive crank end for the puller to press against.
Then you push the crank out of the drive side.
Regardless of Shimano or Campy, you need a bottom bracket tool for the cups. I got one for $25.
If you are paying $550+ ish for a groupset from ribble, $50-100 in tools isn't too much to ask is it?
The stuff I see on the forums dumping on Powertorque seem to be guys who will pay hundreds to save some grams on a crank, stem or wheelset, then complain about spending anything on some tools.
I love my Centaur Powertorque stuff.
However, I do have NOS Veloce ultratorque (multiple shift with thumb button) shifter on one bike. Cost $190 delivered. Very nice to dump heaps of gears up or down quickly.
6 posts • Page 1 of 1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: bicyclewarrior