Workshop tales, trials and disasters.
Maintenance tips, techniques and myths.
Technical discussion, description and outright lies
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
Don't stress - they can be a little off here and there as long as they're in the ballpark. If they are genuinely too long you can chop a couple of mm off without causing any real problems.
The online calculators are what I used when I built a set of mountain bike wheels and they worked out fine.
So we get the leaders we deserve and we elect, we get the companies and the products that we ask for, right? And we have to ask for different things. – Paul Gilding
but really, that's rubbish. We get none of it because the choices are illusory.
My first attempt took three lacings before getting it right, the second took two. Don't go into it stressed, allow plenty of time and you'll be fine.
bychosis (bahy-koh-sis): A mental disorder characterised by symptoms, such as delusions or hallucinations, that indicate impaired contact with reality not containing bicycles.
What are you doing, cutting and threading the spokes? I thought the threads on spokes were rolled for strength and spokes had to be bought the right length (within a couple of mm). Not pretending I know BTW - genuine question. I've only built wheels with the correct length spokes to start with.
People do cut and re-thread, I believe you can get tooling to re-roll the thread, but it's pricey. And you are correct, cut threads are much less fatigue resistant than rolled.
Edit: Phil Woods makes a shop tool for cold rolling threads on spokes.
Sent from my iThingy...
I ride, therefore I am.
...real cyclists don't have squeaky chains...
Well, wheel 1 has come together with no problems other than having to switch the direction of the first 9 spokes on the 2nd side. I'd matched the "wear" marks to begin, but oddly, they didn't fit right. I've not trued it yet, but that can be a job for tomorrow.
Yeah, I bought the spokes new, and cut them to length, then the bike mechanic at my FLBS rolled the thread on for me (at no charge, even ). I used an online spoke length calculator(s) to determine the length, but I always worry a bit when relying on other, unknown peoples calculations, especially when I have no clue how they were calculated. However, 4 out of 5 calculators agreed on the length to within about 0.5mm, the 5th returning a result about 2.5mm longer. I was hoping it was the one that was inaccurate...
Well, wheel No. 2 came together much quicker, with no issues. Seems pretty straight too, though there's not much tension in the spokes yet. Tomorrow I'll set up some sort of truing stand and properly true both wheels, but now I feel I've earned some BNA browse time
Well, I trued the wheels this morning. Did OK getting the lateral wobbles out, but both wheels have a minor flat-spot. I assume easing off the tension on both sides, while adding tension 90 degrees either side (again, to spokes on both sides) is the way to remove these?
9 posts • Page 1 of 1
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